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Zenith601-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 12/05/08

 
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vvkidd(at)mindspring.com
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2008 4:39 am    Post subject: Zenith601-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 12/05/08 Reply with quote

Patrick:

Your thinking about the hole in the bolt and nut is sound to a point. However, the cotter pin in the bolt/nut assembly provides the necessary 'filler' to replace most of the nuts strength. The castle nut is there for a purpose, it is less prone to fail as a result of vibration. The gear attachment bolt difinitey receive lots of vibration. I would NOT use a fiber nut for the gear assembly. The castle nut is there for a purpose to prevent failure due to vibration.

I drilled the gear attachment bolts and used castle nuts and the correct sized cotter pin. I called Zenith about the torque on the 1/2" nuts since it was metal to rubber, the answer was, we just tighten them up snug. Not much of an answer, so I looked up the torque value for the bolt/nut assembly (1/2" coarse thread bolt (at) 110 ft lbs dry) and used that plus a bit of 'shady tree garage' logic, compress the rubber about 1/3 its thickness. By the way I did not use the supplied split heater hose in my assembly. I visited a local machine amd manufacturing shop for assistance. They supplied me with a replacement product that was much better than the heater hose, it was flat neoprene.

Hope this helps.

Victor Kidd
N922VK e/w 300A Jabiru
Flying when the Wx allows. Not too much lately though.
Charleston, WV CRW


Quote:


Time: 05:47:58 PM PST US
Subject: Main Gear Attachment Nut Torque...?
From: "PatrickW" <pwhoyt(at)yahoo.com>
Does anyone know the correct torque value for the AN365-820 fiber lock nuts on
the 1/2" Grade 8 bolts on the Main Gear Attachment bracket 6B11-4...?

AC43.13-1B gives values on page 7-9, however I believe these values are for "metal
against metal". In the case of the Main Gear Attachment, we have "Metal against
Rubber".

What have other builders done...?

- Pat
PS - The drawings specify that these nuts can be used, and the farm boy in me thinks
that the fiber nut is better than the castle nut because a bolt WITHOUT
a hole in it is going to be stronger than a bolt WITH a hole in it. But the torque
question is still valid in any case.

--------
Patrick
601XL/Corvair
N63PZ (reserved)
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jaybannist(at)cs.com
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2008 6:13 am    Post subject: Zenith601-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 12/05/08 Reply with quote

Victor,

I disagree with your statement that "the cotter pin in the bolt/nut assembly provides the necessary 'filler' to replace most of the nuts strength." I think you meant to say "the bolt's strenght", but it definitely does not. The hole reduces the sectional area of the bolt and the only way to "fill" it would by welding. However, the hole is beyond the area where the strength is required, so it does not effect the clamping strength of the bolt.

Another way to secure the nut would be to install a jamb nut. That one could be torqued to the proper amount for the bolt, without regard for the torque of the primary nut.

Jay in Dallas





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rpf(at)wi.rr.com
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2008 10:17 am    Post subject: Zenith601-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 12/05/08 Reply with quote

Fiber nuts work fine in that application. I've had them on for over 230
hours and they have NOT vibrated loose.

Randy
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