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Nose Wheel Shimmy

 
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bakerocb



Joined: 15 Jan 2006
Posts: 727
Location: FAIRFAX VA

PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 4:56 am    Post subject: Nose Wheel Shimmy Reply with quote

1/13/2011

Hello Brian, You wrote: "Has anyone thought of a good way to have nice
linear friction in the last 10 years?"

I have had good results using nylon washers.

You can make the size needed out of nylon sheet using different size hole
saws if you can not find ready made nylon washers of the correct thickness
and size.

'OC' Baker Says: "The best investment we can make is the time and effort to
gather and understand knowledge."

=========================================================

Time: 11:09:42 AM PST US
Subject: Nose wheel pressure
From: Brian Anderson <briana(at)xtra.co.nz>
I'm doing another annual inspection, the 10th one now, and inflating the
tyres
in the process. I fitted new main tyres and tubes a year ago and have only
had
to re-inflate once in that time, and even now the pressure has been
maintained
pretty well. Previously I had to pump the mains up about every 3 months.

Quote:
From time to time I still experience a little nosewheel shimmy. I have some
friction
on the pivot, but maybe not quite enough. Landing too fast is probably

the major contributor, but I always try to hold the nosewheel off as long as
possible.
The question is - - does the tyre pressure in the nosewheel make any
difference. I can't say I have noticed it one way or the other. Usually I
put
about 30 psi in the nosewheel and when I checked yesterday, after a year it
was
down to about 20 psi. [By the way, it is the larger nosewheel that came with
the later Aero Design kits, but with an Asusa aluminium wheel]. If there was
some certainty about whether the nosewheel pressure made a difference I
would
be more careful to maintain it in the right region.

I had a deal of difficulty getting any friction system to work effectively.
I have
the original Aero Designs nose leg, but with a later Skystar cast aluminium
fork. The reason for the change is that the kit supplied fork was drilled at
an angle so the nosewheel was mis-aligned. The later fork is thicker at the
pivot
point, and also needed to be sleeved for the smaller pivot pin. The
additional
thickness leaves very little room for Bellville washers so I had to
improvise
with a single slimmed down version. Hence one flat on the securing nut makes
a big difference to the friction, and it is impossible to get it just right.
It's either too tight for taxiing or too loose for shimmy.

Has anyone thought of a good way to have nice linear friction in the last 10
years
?

Brian


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