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Baffle Springs

 
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mullokintyre



Joined: 17 Sep 2007
Posts: 15
Location: AUSTRALIA

PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 11:26 pm    Post subject: Baffle Springs Reply with quote

I have seen a number of solutions to tying together the front and rear baffles underneath the cylinders on an o_320,
One solution is to attach springs. That's good, but no one seems to have any idea of the spring size, tension etc etc
2Second solution is to use steel tie wire with a washer at either end. But I have difficulty picturing this - how do you stop the wire from untwisting? And what length of wire do you start off with?? Both attempts I have had result in the twisted wire breaking before it takes up the slack and tightens the two baffles.
3.
On another aircraft (production) I have seen a rod with both ends threaded that takes very small all steel lock nuts.
This is the solution I want, but can't find any part numbers in my Lycoming parts book.
Anyone have an idea where I might find them??
Thanks,
Mick


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 5:41 am    Post subject: Baffle Springs Reply with quote

I just replaced one on my IO-360 by just making a new one. It's just a
just a steel rod with a #4 lock nut on each end and a little off-set
bend in the middle. When I go to the airport on Wednesday I'll see if I
can find the old one to take some measurements for you if you're
interested in making them yourself or can't find a part number.

BTW this is probably an airframe part not a Lycoming part so you might
check a Piper or Cessna parts book for one.

John Grosse

Quote:
------------------------------------------------------------------------

mullokintyre <mailto:mmul6471(at)bigpond.net.au>
April 18, 2011 2:26 AM

<mmul6471(at)bigpond.net.au>

3.
On another aircraft (production) I have seen a rod with both ends
threaded that takes very small all steel lock nuts.
This is the solution I want, but can't find any part numbers in my
Lycoming parts book.
Anyone have an idea where I might find them??
Thanks,
Mick




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Dale Ensing



Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 571
Location: Aero Plantation Weddington NC

PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 6:47 am    Post subject: Baffle Springs Reply with quote

Mick
Another solution I used....
Cut the heads off from four 1 inch 4-40 screws. Peen a flat on the cut end of the screws. Drill a hole in the flat for safety wire. Connected each end of pre-measured length of safety wire to a screw. Insert a screw, with an adjustment nut already on screw, into hole in each baffle. Install all metal lock nut on end of each screw. Adjust for proper length and tighten nuts.
Dale

Sent from my iPad

On Apr 18, 2011, at 3:26 AM, "mullokintyre" <mmul6471(at)bigpond.net.au> wrote:

Quote:


I have seen a number of solutions to tying together the front and rear baffles underneath the cylinders on an o_320,
One solution is to attach springs. That's good, but no one seems to have any idea of the spring size, tension etc etc
2Second solution is to use steel tie wire with a washer at either end. But I have difficulty picturing this - how do you stop the wire from untwisting? And what length of wire do you start off with?? Both attempts I have had result in the twisted wire breaking before it takes up the slack and tightens the two baffles.
3.
On another aircraft (production) I have seen a rod with both ends threaded that takes very small all steel lock nuts.
This is the solution I want, but can't find any part numbers in my Lycoming parts book.
Anyone have an idea where I might find them??
Thanks,
Mick




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PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 10:34 am    Post subject: Baffle Springs Reply with quote

I used #2 threaded rod with nuts and lock washers, that is available from several sources, I got mine from a place called Small Parts that supplies to research outfits etc. Don't have the link handy but you should be able to googel it. Not expensive and has worked fine for over 800 hours.

Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 815 hours

---


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Dale Ensing



Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 571
Location: Aero Plantation Weddington NC

PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 4:40 pm    Post subject: Baffle Springs Reply with quote

Vinod
I'll look thru my files for a picture.

[quote] ---


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2011 12:14 am    Post subject: Baffle Springs Reply with quote

Thanks for your efforts Dale. On 19 April 2011 02:37, Dale Ensing <densing(at)carolina.rr.com (densing(at)carolina.rr.com)> wrote:
[quote] Vinod
I'll look thru my files for a picture.
 
[quote] ---


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Dale Ensing



Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 571
Location: Aero Plantation Weddington NC

PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 7:36 am    Post subject: Baffle Springs Reply with quote

Sorry Vinod, could not find a picture.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 19, 2011, at 4:11, Vinod Wahi <vinod.wahi(at)googlemail.com (vinod.wahi(at)googlemail.com)> wrote:

[quote]Thanks for your efforts Dale. On 19 April 2011 02:37, Dale Ensing <[url=mailto:densing(at)carolina.rr.com]densing(at)carolina.rr.com (densing(at)carolina.rr.com)[/url]> wrote:
[quote] Vinod
I'll look thru my files for a picture.

[quote] ---


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 1:33 am    Post subject: Baffle Springs Reply with quote

Hi Dale
Thanks any way.
Vinod

On 23 April 2011 17:31, Dale Ensing <densing(at)carolina.rr.com (densing(at)carolina.rr.com)> wrote:
[quote] Sorry Vinod, could not find a picture.

Sent from my iPhone


On Apr 19, 2011, at 4:11, Vinod Wahi <vinod.wahi(at)googlemail.com (vinod.wahi(at)googlemail.com)> wrote:

[quote]
Thanks for your efforts Dale.


On 19 April 2011 02:37, Dale Ensing <[url=mailto:densing(at)carolina.rr.com]densing(at)carolina.rr.com (densing(at)carolina.rr.com)[/url]> wrote:


[quote]
Vinod
I'll look thru my files for a picture.
 
[quote] ---


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BARRY CHECK 6



Joined: 15 Mar 2011
Posts: 738

PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 5:07 am    Post subject: Baffle Springs Reply with quote

Dale:
 
 WAY TOO MUCH WORK!
 
Vinod... This is what you do...
 
Just get a 4-40 threaded rod - - A few 4-40 Locking Nuts [NOT ELASTIC STOP NUTS // NYLON LOCK NUTS <--- NOT!]
 
Cut the rod 1 1/2" longer than the spacing between the baffle flaps.
Install a Lock Nut at each end and tighten down just enough to hold the shape of the baffle curve next to the cylinders.
 
THAT IS ALL - YOU ARE DONE!
 
But ... Tthere is always a BUT!
 
The part that FAILS is the HOLE in the ALUMINUM Baffle.
To prevent this - - Well, that is a bit more work.
Install a BRASS GROMMET in the hole.  Peen over the part that goes through to hole in in and lock the position.  The HARD parts about this are:
1 - Finding or making the Brass Grommet.
2 - Peening it.... The baffling usually has to be removed.  There are a few tricks with a rivet squeezing tool BUT you would need a rivet squeezing tool and die.
Sorry I can't make this part as easy as the first.  Hope you have baffles that have the hole?
 
Barry
==============================

On Tue, Apr 26, 2011 at 5:29 AM, Vinod Wahi <vinod.wahi(at)googlemail.com (vinod.wahi(at)googlemail.com)> wrote:
[quote] Hi Dale
Thanks any way.
Vinod

On 23 April 2011 17:31, Dale Ensing <densing(at)carolina.rr.com (densing(at)carolina.rr.com)> wrote:
[quote] Sorry Vinod, could not find a picture.

Sent from my iPhone


On Apr 19, 2011, at 4:11, Vinod Wahi <vinod.wahi(at)googlemail.com (vinod.wahi(at)googlemail.com)> wrote:

[quote]
Thanks for your efforts Dale.


On 19 April 2011 02:37, Dale Ensing <[url=mailto:densing(at)carolina.rr.com]densing(at)carolina.rr.com (densing(at)carolina.rr.com)[/url]> wrote:


[quote]
Vinod
I'll look thru my files for a picture.
 
[quote] ---


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 5:45 am    Post subject: Baffle Springs Reply with quote

Thanks to all of you.
I will give a try and post Pics, if successful.
On 26 April 2011 15:04, FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com (flyadive(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
[quote] Dale:
 
 WAY TOO MUCH WORK!
 
Vinod... This is what you do...
 
Just get a 4-40 threaded rod - - A few 4-40 Locking Nuts [NOT ELASTIC STOP NUTS // NYLON LOCK NUTS <--- NOT!]
 
Cut the rod 1 1/2" longer than the spacing between the baffle flaps.
Install a Lock Nut at each end and tighten down just enough to hold the shape of the baffle curve next to the cylinders.
 
THAT IS ALL - YOU ARE DONE!
 
But ... Tthere is always a BUT!
 
The part that FAILS is the HOLE in the ALUMINUM Baffle.
To prevent this - - Well, that is a bit more work.
Install a BRASS GROMMET in the hole.  Peen over the part that goes through to hole in in and lock the position.  The HARD parts about this are:
1 - Finding or making the Brass Grommet.
2 - Peening it.... The baffling usually has to be removed.  There are a few tricks with a rivet squeezing tool BUT you would need a rivet squeezing tool and die.
Sorry I can't make this part as easy as the first.  Hope you have baffles that have the hole?
 
Barry
==============================


On Tue, Apr 26, 2011 at 5:29 AM, Vinod Wahi <vinod.wahi(at)googlemail.com (vinod.wahi(at)googlemail.com)> wrote:
[quote] Hi Dale
Thanks any way.
Vinod

On 23 April 2011 17:31, Dale Ensing <densing(at)carolina.rr.com (densing(at)carolina.rr.com)> wrote:
[quote] Sorry Vinod, could not find a picture.

Sent from my iPhone


On Apr 19, 2011, at 4:11, Vinod Wahi <vinod.wahi(at)googlemail.com (vinod.wahi(at)googlemail.com)> wrote:

[quote]
Thanks for your efforts Dale.


On 19 April 2011 02:37, Dale Ensing <[url=mailto:densing(at)carolina.rr.com]densing(at)carolina.rr.com (densing(at)carolina.rr.com)[/url]> wrote:


[quote]
Vinod
I'll look thru my files for a picture.
 
[quote] ---


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Dale Ensing



Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 571
Location: Aero Plantation Weddington NC

PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 8:17 am    Post subject: Baffle Springs Reply with quote

It is a bit of light work ....sounds more than it is..

BUT, I don't have any problems with the hole failing in the aluminum baffle after 6 years. And, there is no need to remove the baffle....


[quote] ---


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