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Fuselage Firewall Gotchas?

 
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CJohnston(at)popsound.com
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PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2006 8:05 am    Post subject: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? Reply with quote

Hey all -

I'm just about to get started on the firewall section of the fuse
(initial assembly) and I wondered about any gotchas in this area. I
don't have the engine yet, and I'm concerned about opening up holes (or
not closing them) when I don't yet have the hardware that goes in there.
I've never built an airplane before, and I don't have a very good mental
picture of all the ins and outs of aircraft engines. I'm using the
standard IO540 so there shouldn't be any nuttiness, but as I got ready
to open up the holes for the control cables, I got nervous. Any info
would be appreciated.

Thanks
cj


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Rick S.



Joined: 12 Feb 2006
Posts: 347
Location: Las Vegas

PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2006 8:42 am    Post subject: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? Reply with quote

CJ,

Don't open the holes in the recess if you are planning on doing the throttle quadrant. Tim Olson I think said he had to close his off and use different routing for the cable due to the quadrant. Use your C-frame to rivet all the 470-4 rivets...it will save you lots of heartache over bucking the rivets. That's all I have for you, I'm sure others will have some more.

Rick S.
40185
Fuse/finish


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mike(at)cleavelandtool.co
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PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2006 9:53 am    Post subject: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? Reply with quote

For those just starting the fuse. The c-frame with the cupped set in the
bottom, and the long backrivet set in the top is your best friend for all
the sub-assemblies (as mentioned below). I even prefer it over the squeezer
when noise is not an issue.

Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike(at)cleavelandtool.com
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Tim(at)MyRV10.com
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PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2006 10:21 am    Post subject: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? Reply with quote

Yes, I had originally enlarged my 3 holes for the cables, but then when
I realized I wanted to use eyeball passthroughs for better routing,
I had to enlarge the holes. Enlarging the outer 2 caused me to run
well into the center hole and basically chew up the metal in that
area. I ended up making nice huge holes in a triangle pattern (upside
down) and then putting a new patch of Stainless over the area with
the holes drilled properly for the eyeballs. It came out great, but
it was a pain, and would have been much easier if I hadn't originally
upsized those 3 holes. Bottom line: Decide if you're going quadrant
(I love mine) and then plan it right from the get-go. You also
should *try* to drill those holes before you mount the engine.
In addition, consider eyeball passthroughs for those thick cables...it
helps make them easier to route to the proper angle as they go through
the firewall.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Rick wrote:
Quote:


CJ,

Don't open the holes in the recess if you are planning on doing the
throttle quadrant. Tim Olson I think said he had to close his off and
use different routing for the cable due to the quadrant. Use your
C-frame to rivet all the 470-4 rivets...it will save you lots of
heartache over bucking the rivets. That's all I have for you, I'm
sure others will have some more.

Rick S. 40185 Fuse/finish




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CJohnston(at)popsound.com
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PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2006 10:41 am    Post subject: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? Reply with quote

Thanks all for posting. I have an aversion to drilling/enlarging holes
before I am holding in my hand what is supposed to go in them. I'll
wait til I figure things out before I go there.

cj
#40410
fuse

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CJohnston(at)popsound.com
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PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2006 10:45 am    Post subject: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? Reply with quote

Also - I heard mention of sealing the firewall recess with proseal? Did
I imagine that or is it a good idea? I expect that cured proseal does
better in that harsh environment than silicon. Thoughts? I'd rather do
it during the installation than after the fact.

Thanks again
cj
#40410
fuse

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Tim(at)MyRV10.com
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PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2006 11:04 am    Post subject: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? Reply with quote

It's a great idea to keep CO out of the cockpit. Harder to do
after the fact, but I managed to do my QB fuse and was fine with that.

Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Chris Johnston wrote:
[quote]

Also - I heard mention of sealing the firewall recess with proseal? Did
I imagine that or is it a good idea? I expect that cured proseal does
better in that harsh environment than silicon. Thoughts? I'd rather do
it during the installation than after the fact.

Thanks again
cj
#40410
fuse

--


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Rick S.



Joined: 12 Feb 2006
Posts: 347
Location: Las Vegas

PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2006 11:21 am    Post subject: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? Reply with quote

You didn't imagine it CJ,

It's in the plans to fill the corner holes of the recess with proseal. The plans also tell you to use proseal on the skin to firewall flanges when you rivet them, the only place you rivet early in the fuselage is the bottom flange minus a few rivets that get the short hinge material. The rest of the firewall doesn't get sealed and riveted until the cowl hinge section. You might want to consider picking up some of the high temp proseal from Van's in the tube to caulk the seam between the firewall and the bottom/side skins when you finally rivet the cowl hinge to the skins and firewall. One tube should allow for both the hinge and the interior corner. Plans say to use proseal intially on the fuselage then recommends the high temp stuff I believe or I just decided that's what I was going to use. I forget but it does call for proseal for sure. Mike makes a good point about the long back rivet set in the C-frame, I used the suicide set that came with my C-frame, but since it travels in a bronze bushing it's not a sucidal as if it were in a rivet gun. Smile

Rick S.
40185


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Dick Sipp



Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 215
Location: Hope, MI

PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2006 12:15 pm    Post subject: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? Reply with quote

I am fairly certain Van will sell you the documentation only for the
electrical kit, and the firewall forward kit. They did for me. You can use
these to "plan ahead" even if you are not ready to order the parts yet.

Dick Sipp
40065
fuselage completion
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LIKE2LOOP(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2006 1:33 pm    Post subject: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? Reply with quote

In a message dated 5/26/06 12:45 pm, ricksked(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< Use your C-frame to rivet all the 470-4 rivets...it will save you lots of
heartache over bucking the rivets. >>
keep talking...... I never thought of using the C-frame for seating
rivets. Do you hit the sliding arm with the mallet or rivet gun? What die goes
in which part? (dome of rivet up or down?) What does the job best? Thanks
for any tips!

Steve

Port St. Lucie, FL
772-475-5556

Sent from my Treo 600


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CJohnston(at)popsound.com
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PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2006 1:58 pm    Post subject: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? Reply with quote

I checked vans site and they only sell one type of tank sealer. Is this
the high temp stuff? I noticed that they say that this is a new sealer
which replaces the older Proseal. I saw on the label that it says
"Flamemaster". I'm assuming that it somehow masters the flames? Hehe.
But really, it is a higher temp version than the normal proseal from
places like Spruce?

cj
#40410
fuse

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rvbuilder(at)sausen.net
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PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2006 2:42 pm    Post subject: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? Reply with quote

Rather than getting high-temp proseal, save yourself some time and pick up some fire rated caulk from your local Lowes Depot.  Makes more sense and more suitable to the task.

Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage

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rv10builder(at)bellsouth.
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PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2006 2:57 pm    Post subject: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? Reply with quote

Van's sells a firewall sealing compound (p/n MC-CS-1900) and gun (p/n
TOOL SEALANT GUN).

Brian
#40308

Chris Johnston wrote:

[quote]

I checked vans site and they only sell one type of tank sealer. Is this
the high temp stuff? I noticed that they say that this is a new sealer
which replaces the older Proseal. I saw on the label that it says
"Flamemaster". I'm assuming that it somehow masters the flames? Hehe.
But really, it is a higher temp version than the normal proseal from
places like Spruce?

cj
#40410
fuse

--


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jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com
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PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2006 5:07 pm    Post subject: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? Reply with quote

Chris,
Your timing is perfect, I just finished mine today! Pay attention to
the nutplates, most are on the aft side of the firewall but two are on the
forward side, see plans. Would be nice to decide if you're going to use a
Matco parking brake. If you do you should modify the brake line bracket and
make a bracket for the parking brake valve. Amen on the "C" frame and back
riveting. The stainless steel is very sharp, wear gloves and no I didn't
enlarge those holes in the recess yet, thanks to following those ahead of me
on this board and learning from their experience.

John


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mike(at)cleavelandtool.co
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PostPosted: Tue May 30, 2006 7:21 am    Post subject: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? Reply with quote

I have a rough video showing the c-frame being used for riveting. I don't
have the voice over figured out yet so half of the voice over is bad, and
the other half is missing, but at least you can see it in action.

There are two sizes for different internet connections:
Small (1MB): http://www.cleavelandtool.com/video/rsb12_low.wmv
Large (10MB): http://www.cleavelandtool.com/video/rsb12.wmv


Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike(at)cleavelandtool.com
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rnewman(at)lutron.com
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PostPosted: Tue May 30, 2006 7:49 am    Post subject: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? Reply with quote

I'm just finishing up the firewall, here's what I did. I used my
rivet squeezer with a deep throat jaw for all the -4 rivets possible
around the periphery of the firewall. This helped provide a lot
rigidity to the sheet metal and ensure the aluminum parts were perfectly
seated against the stainless. Then I back-riveted all of the interior
rivets using a 3" by 20" chunk of steel laid flat on the work bench and
a back rivet set in the pneumatic rivet gun. I found I can control the
mating of the parts much better with back riveting and squeezing as
opposed to using the c-frame and a hammer.
Bob Newman
40176
plane #5, slow build everything... Smile

Quote:
>> ricksked(at)earthlink.net 5/26/2006 12:42:07 PM >>>


CJ,

Don't open the holes in the recess if you are planning on doing the
throttle quadrant. Tim Olson I think said he had to close his off and
use different routing for the cable due to the quadrant. Use your
C-frame to rivet all the 470-4 rivets...it will save you lots of
heartache over bucking the rivets. That's all I have for you, I'm sure
others will have some more.

Rick S.
40185
Fuse/finish


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