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johngoodman



Joined: 18 Sep 2006
Posts: 530
Location: GA

PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 9:39 am    Post subject: Looking for Tips Reply with quote

I have recently gotten partners in my RV-10, and we are converting it from my old LS1 engine, to a new IO-540 from Van. I'd like to get some input on several areas.

First, The Red Cube - Tunnel or on the engine?

Next, Remote Oil Filter - AirWolf, B&C, or the standard? Would like to know how messy it can be with any of them.

Cables or Actuators - Any comments on these for the Oil Cooler, and the heat deflectors would be appreciated.

Tips on what not to do on baffling also appreciated.

Fire away!
John


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 10:06 am    Post subject: Looking for Tips Reply with quote

I prefer the fuel transducer on the engine - much more accurate. I didn't like the inaccuracy when the electric fuel pump is on. No opinion on the rest...

On Tue, Oct 18, 2016 at 12:39 PM, johngoodman <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net (johngoodman(at)earthlink.net)> wrote:
Quote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net (johngoodman(at)earthlink.net)>

I have recently gotten partners in my RV-10, and we are converting it from my old LS1 engine, to a new IO-540 from Van. I'd like to get some input on several areas.

First, The Red Cube - Tunnel or on the engine?

Next, Remote Oil Filter - AirWolf, B&C, or the standard? Would like to know how messy it can be with any of them.

Cables or Actuators - Any comments on these for the Oil Cooler, and the heat deflectors would be appreciated.

Tips on what not to do on baffling also appreciated.

Fire away!
John

--------
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011




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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 10:18 am    Post subject: Looking for Tips Reply with quote

I'm not flying yet, but I'll give my reasons ......
On 10/18/2016 1:39 PM, johngoodman wrote:
Quote:


I have recently gotten partners in my RV-10, and we are converting it from my old LS1 engine, to a new IO-540 from Van. I'd like to get some input on several areas.

First, The Red Cube - Tunnel or on the engine?
Engine. Too many people have had fuel flow inaccuracies due to

turbulence caused by the boost pump.
Quote:
Next, Remote Oil Filter - AirWolf, B&C, or the standard? Would like to know how messy it can be with any of them.
I stayed with the standard oil filter since I didn't see a need to

change. I've been changing them a long time and don't make any messes.
Quote:
Cables or Actuators - Any comments on these for the Oil Cooler, and the heat deflectors would be appreciated.
I have a problem with dumping the oil cooler air into the dead space in

the lower corner of the cowl. I have thought about a collector plenum
that dumps into the exit air, but the muffler mounting gets in the way.
The deflector would be a good idea .....
Quote:
Tips on what not to do on baffling also appreciated.
I modified my baffling and cowl to accept a Sam James plenum. I did not

make the baffling according to Sam James, but modified his plenum to fit
the Vans baffling. We'll see how well I did in the coming year.
Quote:
Fire away!
Bang!!!

Linn
Quote:
John

--------
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 10:43 am    Post subject: Looking for Tips Reply with quote

- Red cube. Both places work. The tunnel is easier but will reflect some
error when the boost pump is running. I have it in the tunnel and use the
boost pump for takeoff, landing and when shifting tanks. Total fuel used
is always within a half a gallon on fill up (400 hours on the plane).

- Standard oil filter. Put a cup under it when changing oil filters and you
don't lose a drop.

- I greatly prefer the standard push/pull throttle, vernier prop and vernier
mixture controls - and others prefer a quadrant. For cabin heat, oil cooler
butterfly valve and engine alt air I used these cables:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/a730.php For a smaller
footprint on the panel these work as well:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/buttondashctrl.php

- The stock oil cooler mount is, in my opinion, a poor design. The air
needs to first change direction by bounding off the firewall, then change
directions again when exiting the cooler. I mounted an AirFlow System 2006X
cooler horizontally on the firewall on the left side. It gets the standard
4" hose from the left side of the engine baffle via a 4" butterfly valve.
This cooler works well. I have never had an oil temp problem. The butterfly
valve is required however even on mild days to keep temps about 180.

- The stock cabin heat valves are horrible for blasting hot air back onto
the engine right where you have your mechanical fuel pump. I put a piece of
this stuff between the valves and the firewall (holes cut out for cabin air
flow) and draped the material over the top and front of the valves:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/ap/insulation/koolmat.php This way on
your hot day when these valves are shut the heat muff air is deflected down
and away from the engine.

- For cabin heat cut one 2" hole in the rear baffle for a single hose, then
a Y to run the separate hoses to each heat muff. Even then you might find a
need to put a restrictor in line as you get a boatload of cabin heat. So
less air is fine for cabin heat and on a hot day you are stealing less air
from engine cooling.

- If using the standard cowl, then get the stock Van's baffle kit. I made
my own as I'm using a plenum.

- On first flight leave the air damn off the front of #1 and #2 cylinders.
Add them once you get some CHT data. Cut them down as needed to get the
right CHT balance.

Carl

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Dave Saylor



Joined: 11 Jan 2015
Posts: 207
Location: GILROY, CA

PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 11:04 am    Post subject: Looking for Tips Reply with quote

John,

I prefer the red cube on the engine. Here are a couple pictures of a bracket I make for the red cube.  It just mounts to the studs that secure the servo.  Made from steel similar to Van's other brackets.
I like the B&C 90* filter.  If I have time, I punch a couple holes in the top and then let it sit for a few hours.  Then I can unscrew the filter and it doesn't even drip.
We just replaced our baffles after about 1200 hours--long story but we went from soft silicone baffles, which worked great, to some pretty expensive material that was supposed to reduce vibration to the cowl since it's teflon coated and theoretically not as "sticky".  It was kind of hard to work with compared to the silicone, and I don't notice any improvement in smoothness.
--Dave

On Tue, Oct 18, 2016 at 10:39 AM, johngoodman <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net (johngoodman(at)earthlink.net)> wrote:
Quote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net (johngoodman(at)earthlink.net)>

I have recently gotten partners in my RV-10, and we are converting it from my old LS1 engine, to a new IO-540 from Van. I'd like to get some input on several areas.

First, The Red Cube - Tunnel or on the engine?

Next, Remote Oil Filter - AirWolf, B&C, or the standard? Would like to know how messy it can be with any of them.

Cables or Actuators - Any comments on these for the Oil Cooler, and the heat deflectors would be appreciated.

Tips on what not to do on baffling also appreciated.

Fire away!
John

--------
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011




Read this topic online here:

http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461420#461420







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rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
====================================





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jrlark



Joined: 03 Jul 2009
Posts: 72

PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 2:32 pm    Post subject: Looking for Tips Reply with quote

John, Just completed my -10 in the last 9 months, 36 hrs TT, so to
paraphrase Stein my .02 worth.

Red cube under the front of the engine above the fuel servo. Easy to mount,
service, no issues etc and one less set of connections in the tight
inaccessible tunnel, and in the cabin where the smell of fuel is a bad
thing.

I have a 90 degree oil filter adapter so no opinion on the remote mount.

I had to re-buy 2 of the 3 engine control cables from MacFarlane due to
placement of my F/W penetrations and ease of routing. Highly recommend
mounting the engine and then measuring for the required lengths. Vans
cables don't appear to be as high a quality as the MacFarlane cables, but
just my opinion.

I bought an oversized oil cooler, Air Flow Systems 2007X model. I think it
is supposed to have 17% more cooling. I have no issues with oil temps.

My baffling is per the plans. Close off every little hole you can find.
Quote:
From the very first flight I have had no problems with CHT's and I have 9:1
compression so I probably make a little more HP.


Good luck.

Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2016 9:19 am    Post subject: Looking for Tips Reply with quote

Red cube: I moved mine from tunnel to engine. I like the more accurate date from the engine side location.
Both the red cube installation manual and APS recommend suspending the red cube in a fuel line between servo and spider, not attached directly to crank case. I did that, wrapping cube in fire sleeve. It works well.
Direct mounting to engine was advised against, although many folks seem to take that route with good results.

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 18, 2016, at 11:06 AM, Kevin Belue <kdb.rv10(at)gmail.com (kdb.rv10(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
Quote:
I prefer the fuel transducer on the engine - much more accurate. I didn't like the inaccuracy when the electric fuel pump is on. No opinion on the rest...

On Tue, Oct 18, 2016 at 12:39 PM, johngoodman <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net (johngoodman(at)earthlink.net)> wrote:
Quote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net (johngoodman(at)earthlink.net)>

I have recently gotten partners in my RV-10, and we are converting it from my old LS1 engine, to a new IO-540 from Van. I'd like to get some input on several areas.

First, The Red Cube - Tunnel or on the engine?

Next, Remote Oil Filter - AirWolf, B&C, or the standard? Would like to know how messy it can be with any of them.

Cables or Actuators - Any comments on these for the Oil Cooler, and the heat deflectors would be appreciated.

Tips on what not to do on baffling also appreciated.

Fire away!
John

--------
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011




Read this topic online here:

http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461420#461420







====================================
-List" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
====================================
FORUMS -
_blank" rel="noreferrer">http://forums.matronics.com
====================================
WIKI -
lank" rel="noreferrer">http://wiki.matronics.com
====================================
b Site -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
====================================







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Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

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Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2016 3:54 am    Post subject: Looking for Tips Reply with quote

More of the same....
On 10/18/2016 1:39 PM, johngoodman wrote:
Quote:


I have recently gotten partners in my RV-10, and we are converting it from my old LS1 engine, to a new IO-540 from Van. I'd like to get some input on several areas.

First, The Red Cube - Tunnel or on the engine?
I don't have the Red Cube but rather the GRT(?) transducer. First had

it mounted in tunnel and experienced the inaccuracies when the pump was
run. Mounted it engine compartment - very accurate. Don't put it in
the tunnel.
Quote:
Next, Remote Oil Filter - AirWolf, B&C, or the standard? Would like to know how messy it can be with any of them.
I went with the stock mounting - no problem. Easy to mount and remove -

only challenge is dripping during removal. I have a plastic angle
(roughly 2"x2"x4') that I stick under the filter during removal. Drips
right into waste container. Many simple solutions to drip problem.
Quote:
Cables or Actuators - Any comments on these for the Oil Cooler, and the heat deflectors would be appreciated.
The stock cables melt and are slightly too short for quadrant. I

replace them with longer ones from California Cable - recommend them and
their product highly. Very fast turn around on well priced custom cables.
Quote:
Tips on what not to do on baffling also appreciated.
Silicon baffling material is great stuff in all respects.


I used stock oil cooler. I occasionally had problems with oil being
over cooled in NC winters. Running less oil (7 quarts at change - add
to maintain at least 6) and adding a small fixed baffle fixed it. Never
any problems with overheating oil. I have never calibrated my oil temp
sensor.
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