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lambdinwilliam(at)gmail.c
Guest

Posted: Wed Apr 12, 2017 2:36 am Post subject: covering supplier?

Hey, Guys,



Just to add my 2 cents--I used the Stewart system on my second plane, after



using Polyfiber on my first.  It was a joy not dealing with MEK.  The glue worked



great, just be sure to wipe off the excess as you go.  Two words of caution:



1-the filler/ uv block coating absorbs moisture and the finish colors "hate" water.



The "how to" videos from the company on YouTube suggest using alcohol on 



the surface to get rid of finger prints before applying the color coats.  I did so 



and when I started spraying color, it splotched and ran like I was spraying oil



on water. I thought there must still be oil on the fabric, so I cleaned with alcohol



Even more lavishly this time. After allowing to dry(I thought). Sprayed and same



result.  Called company and they told me that the surface was absorbing the 



water in the alcohol. Evidently the Eco fill (uv block and fabric filler) is hydrophilic,



and the color coats hydrophobic!  I had to use alcohol sparingly  and dry all



surfaces with time in the sun(when available and with heaters to stop the



problem. 

2-- make sure the paint is mixed to the exact viscosity and make sure your



compressed can deliver continuous sufficient pressure. I had to really work



not to get orange peel effect.  My paint job looks great from 10 or 15' but up 



close there are areas of silky smooth finish and areas of slight orange peel.



Good luck,



Lanny Lambdin. P.S.  On YouTube is a video- search for: Miss Sunshine Walkaround,



to see the results on my plane.



Sent from my iPad



[quote] On Apr 11, 2017, at 4:33 PM, Stuart Harner <stuart(at)harnerfarm.net> wrote:

 

 

 

 I asked Malcom about this at OSH a few years back. He said the weight is almost identical. He can sure put a beautiful finish on fabric!

 

 This is the perfect system for those who:

 Want to work without the "stink"

 Save money.

 Have more time than I do....

 

 Stuart

 

 --

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phcpilot

Joined: 24 May 2016
Posts: 16

Posted: Wed Apr 12, 2017 4:57 am Post subject: Re: covering supplier?

Here are my experiences with Latex which include a re-paint over an auto finish, re-cover of a fuselage and painting a stits type covering.



The re-paint was on a fuselage which had some cracking and chipping of an older auto finish from firewall back past trailing edge of a Rans S7.  I sanded and filled the crack/chip areas with poly filla (Yup) then had the hardware store do a colour match of some exterior latex paint. Actually these days it is called water based acrylic. Years ago you couldn't sand latex due to its rubbery nature. Not so these days.

The result looked great with sort of a low gloss dope type finish. I have kept in touch with the owner of the plane because even I was skeptical of how long it would last. It has been many years now and he is still happy.



In addition to acrylic paints, you should also keep clear water base urethane in mind. I recovered my homebuilt 170 fuselage (steel tube/fabric) and used clear urethane as first fill coat on the fabric and then put tapes on with it. It was great to work with. Also used the green hardware store water based contact cement for glue.



Then sprayed on gloss acylic latex for finish coats. A buddy who is a long time dope and fabric guy was amazed at how great the tape seams and fill looked. At that time the glossiest acrylic was about as dull as a dope finish but with a lot fewer coats.



Next I've done a complete S7 with acrylic using a cheap primer fill coat followed by gloss colour coats. High gloss is not an attribute of acrylic unless you want to do all that buffing but with a product from Home Hardware called Rust coat the finish is the best I've seen. Yes if you need a mirror finish be prepared to work but for a great looking dope or better than polytone, little sanding is required.



For years I followed the suggestion from one site to use an airless sprayer. This was mistake, they put out way too much paint even with the fine nozzles. An inexpensive $50 HVLP gun is just fine and with way less likelihood of runs.

Peter

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ceengland7(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Apr 12, 2017 7:01 am Post subject: covering supplier?

Thanks, Peter.



For you guys who've used latex, did you stick with the Glidden Gripper 

grey primer as shown on the Wienerdog Aero site, or something else? I 

can get the white primer (and other brands) locally, but will have to 

order the grey.



No polishing for me; I'll be happy if the paint stays on & prevents UV 

damage.



Thanks,



Charlie



On 4/12/2017 7:57 AM, phcpilot wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 Here are my experiences with Latex which include a re-paint over an auto finish, re-cover of a fuselage and painting a stits type covering.



 The re-paint was on a fuselage which had some cracking and chipping of an older auto finish from firewall back past trailing edge of a Rans S7.  I sanded and filled the crack/chip areas with poly filla (Yup) then had the hardware store do a colour match of some exterior latex paint. Actually these days it is called water based acrylic. Years ago you couldn't sand latex due to its rubbery nature. Not so these days.

 The result looked great with sort of a low gloss dope type finish. I have kept in touch with the owner of the plane because even I was skeptical of how long it would last. It has been many years now and he is still happy.



 In addition to acrylic paints, you should also keep clear water base urethane in mind. I recovered my homebuilt 170 fuselage (steel tube/fabric) and used clear urethane as first fill coat on the fabric and then put tapes on with it. It was great to work with. Also used the green hardware store water based contact cement for glue.



 Then sprayed on gloss acylic latex for finish coats. A buddy who is a long time dope and fabric guy was amazed at how great the tape seams and fill looked. At that time the glossiest acrylic was about as dull as a dope finish but with a lot fewer coats.



 Next I've done a complete S7 with acrylic using a cheap primer fill coat followed by gloss colour coats. High gloss is not an attribute of acrylic unless you want to do all that buffing but with a product from Home Hardware called Rust coat the finish is the best I've seen. Yes if you need a mirror finish be prepared to work but for a great looking dope or better than polytone, little sanding is required.



 For years I followed the suggestion from one site to use an airless sprayer. This was mistake, they put out way too much paint even with the fine nozzles. An inexpensive $50 HVLP gun is just fine and with way less likelihood of runs.

 Peter




	




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ceengland7(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Apr 12, 2017 11:30 am Post subject: covering supplier?

Hi Joe,

Has anyone verified that it's actually the same stuff? It might look, smell, feel, even taste the same, but the TDS for Fastbond reads like plain old contact cement. No mention of using heat to activate it, as described by Stewart.Â 

It wouldn't surprise me if it is the same stuff, but I'd like to *know* it's the same stuff.

Thanks,

Charlie

On Tue, Apr 11, 2017 at 7:27 AM,  <mojavjoe(at)comcast.net (mojavjoe(at)comcast.net)> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  Charlie

Another tip,Â buy Fastbond NF Green on Amazon, it's the same adhesive as StewartÂ at half the price

Joe

From: "Charlie England" <ceengland7(at)gmail.com (ceengland7(at)gmail.com)>

To: "kolb-list" <kolb-list(at)matronics.com (kolb-list(at)matronics.com)>

Sent: Monday, April 10, 2017 11:53:23 PM

Subject: Re: covering supplier?

--> Kolb-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com (ceengland7(at)gmail.com)>

Sounds like Spruce is the go-to place, then.

My fabric guy (yeah, I've got a fabric guy) is willing to try Stewart 

System glue, so I think we'll give that a shot. That plus Wienerdog 

Aero's Latex painting technique, & we should be good to go. 

Charlie

On 4/10/2017 9:15 PM, Hoppy wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   --> Kolb-List message posted by: Hoppy <herbgh(at)nctc.com (herbgh(at)nctc.com)>

 Haven't checked in a while..but think A/C spruce can ship Poly Fiber 

 chemicals with no haz material charge...? Herb

 On 04/10/2017 09:10 PM, Hoppy wrote:

> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Hoppy <herbgh(at)nctc.com (herbgh(at)nctc.com)>

>

> Yep..Peel ply... around 5 bucks a yard...1.7 or 2.6. Herb

> On 04/10/2017 06:45 PM, Charlie England wrote:

>> Anyone using a covering supplier that's better (cheaper, better 

>> service, etc) than A/C Spruce?

>

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ceengland7(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Apr 12, 2017 11:32 am Post subject: covering supplier?

On Mon, Apr 10, 2017 at 8:15 PM,  <mojavjoe(at)comcast.net (mojavjoe(at)comcast.net)> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  Charlie



Use the covering that A/C Spruce refers to as peel ply.



Joe





	






I almost ordered it, but it's only 5' wide & I wasn't sure if that would have enough 'wrap' to do one side of a wing. If I do this sort of thing again, I'll certainly give it a try.

Thanks,

Charlie

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mojavjoe

Joined: 23 Dec 2013
Posts: 64

Posted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 4:07 am Post subject: covering supplier?

Charlie



My two cents again;  I used white Gripper but any good acrylic primmer will do and you can tint it toward your top coat.  As I'm painting scenes on my wings and fuselage I can't do the sanding described by Wiener Dog so I'm spraying on a high gloss clear coat. The product I've settled on is Rustolem acrylic gloss clear.



Joe



From: "Charlie England" <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>

To: "kolb-list" <kolb-list(at)matronics.com>

Sent: Wednesday, April 12, 2017 11:03:16 AM

Subject: Re: Re: covering supplier?

--> Kolb-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>

Thanks, Peter.

For you guys who've used latex, did you stick with the Glidden Gripper 

grey primer as shown on the Wienerdog Aero site, or something else? I 

can get the white primer (and other brands) locally, but will have to 

order the grey.

No polishing for me; I'll be happy if the paint stays on & prevents UV 

damage.

Thanks,

Charlie

On 4/12/2017 7:57 AM, phcpilot wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   --> Kolb-List message posted by: "phcpilot" <cowan.phc(at)gmail.com>



 Here are my experiences with Latex which include a re-paint over an auto finish, re-cover of a fuselage and painting a stits type covering.



 The re-paint was on a fuselage which had some cracking and chipping of an older auto finish from firewall back past trailing edge of a Rans S7.  I sanded and filled the crack/chip areas with poly filla (Yup) then had the hardware store do a colour match of some exterior latex paint. Actually these days it is called water based acrylic. Years ago you couldn't sand latex due to its rubbery nature. Not so these days.

 The result looked great with sort of a low gloss dope type finish. I have kept in touch with the owner of the plane because even I was skeptical of how long it would last. It has been many years now and he is still happy.



 In addition to acrylic paints, you should also keep clear water base urethane in mind. I recovered my homebuilt 170 fuselage (steel tube/fabric) and used clear urethane as first fill coat on the fabric and then put tapes on with it. It was great to work with. Also used the green hardware store water based contact cement for glue.



 Then sprayed on gloss acylic latex for finish coats. A buddy who is a long time dope and fabric guy was amazed at how great the tape seams and fill looked. At that time the glossiest acrylic was about as dull as a dope finish but with a lot fewer coats.



 Next I've done a complete S7 with acrylic using a cheap primer fill coat followed by gloss colour coats. High gloss is not an attribute of acrylic unless you want to do all that buffing but with a product from Home Hardware called Rust coat the finish is the best I've seen. Yes if you need a mirror finish be prepared to work but for a great looking dope or better than polytone, little sanding is required.



 For years I followed the suggestion from one site to use an airless sprayer. This was mistake, they put out way too much paint even with the fine nozzles. An inexpensive $50 HVLP gun is just fine and with way less likelihood of runs.

 Peter




	


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ceengland7(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 5:22 am Post subject: covering supplier?

Thanks Joe; that's good news. I'll just use a good quality primer & quit worrying about it. Will a gallon take care of both wings (the multiple coats required)?



On Thu, Apr 13, 2017 at 7:06 AM,  <mojavjoe(at)comcast.net (mojavjoe(at)comcast.net)> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  Charlie



My two cents again;Â  I used white Gripper but any good acrylic primmer will do and you can tint it toward your top coat.Â  As I'm painting scenes on my wings and fuselageÂ IÂ can't do the sanding described by WienerÂ Dog so I'm spraying on a high gloss clear coat. The product I've settled on is Rustolem acrylic gloss clear.



Joe



From: "Charlie England" <ceengland7(at)gmail.com (ceengland7(at)gmail.com)>

To: "kolb-list" <kolb-list(at)matronics.com (kolb-list(at)matronics.com)>

Sent: Wednesday, April 12, 2017 11:03:16 AM

Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: covering supplier?

--> Kolb-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com (ceengland7(at)gmail.com)>

Thanks, Peter.

For you guys who've used latex, did you stick with the Glidden Gripper 

grey primer as shown on the Wienerdog Aero site, or something else? I 

can get the white primer (and other brands) locally, but will have to 

order the grey.

No polishing for me; I'll be happy if the paint stays on & prevents UV 

damage.

Thanks,

Charlie

On 4/12/2017 7:57 AM, phcpilot wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   --> Kolb-List message posted by: "phcpilot" <cowan.phc(at)gmail.com (cowan.phc(at)gmail.com)>



 Here are my experiences with Latex which include a re-paint over an auto finish, re-cover of a fuselage and painting a stits type covering.



 The re-paint was on a fuselage which had some cracking and chipping of an older auto finish from firewall back past trailing edge of a Rans S7.Â  I sanded and filled the crack/chip areas with poly filla (Yup) then had the hardware store do a colour match of some exterior latex paint. Actually these days it is called water based acrylic. Years ago you couldn't sand latex due to its rubbery nature. Not so these days.

 The result looked great with sort of a low gloss dope type finish. I have kept in touch with the owner of the plane because even I was skeptical of how long it would last. It has been many years now and he is still happy.



 In addition to acrylic paints, you should also keep clear water base urethane in mind. I recovered my homebuilt 170 fuselage (steel tube/fabric) and used clear urethane as first fill coat on the fabric and then put tapes on with it. It was great to work with. Also used the green hardware store water based contact cement for glue.



 Then sprayed on gloss acylic latex for finish coats. A buddy who is a long time dope and fabric guy was amazed at how great the tape seams and fill looked. At that time the glossiest acrylic was about as dull as a dope finish but with a lot fewer coats.



 Next I've done a complete S7 with acrylic using a cheap primer fill coat followed by gloss colour coats. High gloss is not an attribute of acrylic unless you want to do all that buffing but with a product from Home Hardware called Rust coat the finish is the best I've seen. Yes if you need a mirror finish be prepared to work but for a great looking dope or better than polytone, little sanding is required.



 For years I followed the suggestion from one site to use an airless sprayer. This was mistake, they put out way too much paint even with the fine nozzles. An inexpensive $50 HVLP gun is just fine and with way less likelihood of runs.

 Peter




	


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