nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
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 Posted: Fri Jun 09, 2017 6:57 am Post subject: Can Someone PLEASE Provide A Recommendation For A Plunger |
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So…getting back to the switch…it needs to have the following attributes:
-Plunger type switch that has a very light spring that forces the switch plunger to the extended position.
-When the switch is pushed in the contacts need to be open and when the switch is allowed to extend the contacts need to close so my indicator light will illuminate.
-The threaded shaft of the switch should be about ½ inch long.
-Threaded shaft is made of plastic
My goal is to install the switch from the outside so that the switch body is on the outside of the box and only the plunger assembly is inserted into the sidewall mounting hole just long enough so that the switch will be pressed in when the flapper valve is closed. If the threaded shaft is plastic then I can use epoxy to glue the switch threads into the sidewall of the air box and therefore it would not need a nut on the inside wall of the air box so there would be no worry about the nut falling into the engine intake.
Here is a picture of a switch that could work…I would not use the nuts and I would also prefer that the body and the plunger were made of plastic and I have no way of knowing how strong the spring is. |
[img]cid:.0[/img]
The switch you have illustrated is a Honeywell product used extensively
in aviation for harsh environment limit switching . . . like landing
gear.
When disassembled, you find two basic switches inside a weathertight
housing. There is a spring in the threaded barrel that gives this
switch a VERY high operating force. Then, you will find that
this product is expensive . . . in fact, I don't think they are
catalog items. Examples I encountered at Raytheon/Beech were
custom built to our specs for stroke, over-travel, force,
and style of basic switch.
If you want to go with a 'hard' switch, check out the
range of options offered here:
http://tinyurl.com/y7lnmvpu
There are products adaptable to your task but you'll have
to figure out mounting and actuator configurations.
Charlie's suggestion for non-contact sensing is excellent
too. A button magnet or metalic target bonded to the door
and sensed by some form of proximity device. Some
examples:
http://tinyurl.com/yd3vzncr
The later options are essentially zero-actuation-force,
and usually very robust in crappy environments.
Bob . . .
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