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Proseal

 
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william(at)gbta.net
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 10:09 pm    Post subject: Proseal Reply with quote

My first bout with the proseal went pretty good.  Not near as bad as I was expecting after some of the conversations on the lists.  Just one question though.  How do I know when it is done "curing"???  Does it stay rubbery or does it harden???  I've got one trailing edge skin that got a little wavy when edge rolling it and I want to be sure the proseal is fully cured before removing the clamps from it (don't want the proseal coming loose and letting the skin pillow up)
 
Sorry for the lame question,
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevators/deburring tailcone


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Deems Davis



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 925

PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 10:42 pm    Post subject: Proseal Reply with quote

Bill, Pro Seal never gets 'hard' is stays a rubbery-like texture, but it
does get to a point where it is not plyable and is not able to be
deformed without returning to its 'cured' state. the curing time depends
on how much catalyst you mixed with it, how thouroughly it was mixed,
and the temperature in which it cures. If it cured (at) room temperature
(70 degrees +) I would wait AT LEAST 24 hours before removing any
clamps, and preferrably, 48 hrs. If it cured at a cooler temperature I
would extend the time considerably (e.g. when leak testing my fuel tanks
I waited 3+ weeks to make sure everytning was cured befor applying any
pressure) 9OK so it helped that i had lots of other things to do in the
meantime).

Deems Davis # 406
Wings
http://deemsrv10.com/

Bill and Tami Britton wrote:

Quote:
My first bout with the proseal went pretty good. Not near as bad as I
was expecting after some of the conversations on the lists. Just one
question though. How do I know when it is done "curing"??? Does it
stay rubbery or does it harden??? I've got one trailing edge skin
that got a little wavy when edge rolling it and I want to be sure the
proseal is fully cured before removing the clamps from it (don't want
the proseal coming loose and letting the skin pillow up)

Sorry for the lame question,
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevators/deburring tailcone


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william(at)gbta.net
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2006 6:13 am    Post subject: Proseal Reply with quote

Thanks Deems. That's all I needed to know. I brought the elevators into my
house to cure so they re in 70 degree temps. I'll leave them for probably 3
days and check them out.

Bill Britton

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Tim(at)MyRV10.com
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2006 6:31 am    Post subject: Proseal Reply with quote

Bill, I wouldn't worry about 3 days for the elevators. If they're
inside one day or so you should be just fine. FOr the tanks though,
I'd wait a week.
do not archive
Tim
Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
[quote]

Thanks Deems. That's all I needed to know. I brought the elevators
into my house to cure so they re in 70 degree temps. I'll leave them
for probably 3 days and check them out.

Bill Britton

---


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n8vim(at)arrl.net
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2006 8:26 am    Post subject: Proseal Reply with quote

Hey all,

I have attached the PDF documentation which includes the cure times for
Proseal on page 2.

For the 1/2 hour stuff (B1/2), it's 45 hours at 77F, 50% RH.
For the 2 hour stuff (B2), it's 112 hours at 77F, 50% RH

-Jim

Tim Olson wrote:

[quote]

Bill, I wouldn't worry about 3 days for the elevators. If they're
inside one day or so you should be just fine. FOr the tanks though,
I'd wait a week.
do not archive
Tim
Bill and Tami Britton wrote:

>
> <william(at)gbta.net>
>
> Thanks Deems. That's all I needed to know. I brought the elevators
> into my house to cure so they re in 70 degree temps. I'll leave them
> for probably 3 days and check them out.
>
> Bill Britton
>
> ---


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tank_sealant.pdf
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johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 4:55 am    Post subject: Proseal Reply with quote

Jim's attachment of the treatise by Paul Trotter is a definitive report
and should be kept as a quick reference document for all of the
builders.

Additionally attached are two spec sheets on PRC 1826B and PRC 1422B
sealants. FlameMaster (VANs) meets the same MILSPEC requirements. The
1826 is fuel tank sealant and the 1422 would be more appropriate for
panel attachment, firewall to skin attachment. The B denotes extrudable
consistency. If you value either Burraway deburring bits or a pneumatic
rivet squeezer, you have to get a surplus Semco pneumatic gun with 6 oz.
nose.

The above sealants are a real bitch to remove, as they have an extremely
high cohesion factor, once cured to specification.

John - KUAO
Do not Archive

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jjessen(at)rcn.com
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 7:48 am    Post subject: Proseal Reply with quote

Some day I'd like to meet in person and take a look at you project. I'm
building out at Lenhardt's. We have 3 RV-10s building out there, all
hangered next to each other, plus Randy's finished plane behind us. Where
are you building?

--


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jjessen(at)rcn.com
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 8:19 am    Post subject: Proseal Reply with quote

Whoops! Didn't mean for this to go to the entire list. Sorry fellas. Just
trying to meet the great John W.

DO NOT ARCHIVE

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