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hugo rv10

 
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gommone7(at)bellsouth.net
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 2:02 pm    Post subject: hugo rv10 Reply with quote

Here is a question for somebody allready finish the tail cone ,according intructions I have to full rigged the control surfaces before connect the tail cone to the fuselage /cabin.
Will not be more logic to do this after the complete fuselage is connected ,then the full alignement will be more accurate?
in another issue ,how the elevator trim motor can be service ,or replace if is a problem with it ,from wath I can see ,need to dissy. the complete controls surfaces to acces it.do I'm wrong.
Thanks for the time the guys ahead dedicated to instruct us,
Hugo


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coop85(at)bellsouth.net
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 3:52 pm    Post subject: hugo rv10 Reply with quote

Hugo,
I am far from finishing but may be able to help some. As for rigging
the controls, I think the reason you can get away with making the pushrod
tubes to final length is the kit is so consistent due to prepunching that
there is very little, if any, variance between airplanes. Since it is so
much easier to install some components prior to attaching the tailcone and
there is no real downside then it makes sense to do so.

Regarding the pitch trim, I just installed that this weekend and had to
remove the whole assembly because I put in a piece wrong. The lesson I
learned is that, while not much fun, you can remove the pitch trim system by
only removing the empennage fairing. You will also have to drill out the
trim cable mounts on the elevator access panel since (at least on mine) you
can't unthread the cable with the plate attached due to elevator
interference. Which is also why Van's has us pop rivet it on instead of
solid rivets. The good news is you do not have to remove any major
components.

Hope this helps, there may be better answers out there.

Marcus
40286

Do Not Archive

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jjessen(at)rcn.com
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 6:06 pm    Post subject: hugo rv10 Reply with quote

Is this a good spot for platenuts instead of pop rivets?

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coop85(at)bellsouth.net
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 7:27 pm    Post subject: hugo rv10 Reply with quote

I don't think the plate itself is large enough to install platenuts. If I
were to do it over again, I would only hold the cable tiedown in place with
clecoes until I was fairly happy with the control settings and then use pop
rivets. I also plan to get the new aluminum cable anchors mentioned here
recently. Just me thinking out loud mostly, there are probably some better
ideas from those who have finished their machines.

Marcus

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Deems Davis



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 925

PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 7:47 pm    Post subject: hugo rv10 Reply with quote

I just got the new CNC cable anchors. I havn't done this yet but my plan
is to mount them to an .032 plate that is large enough to accept some #6
platenuts using flush rivets. I'll order new covers from Van's (already
drilled the old ones), and then match drill the platenuts/plate to the
new cover and then dimple the cover for #6 screws, that way the cable
anchors should be easily removable.
btw here's a link to some pics of the CNC cable anchors

http://deemsrv10.com/album/CNC%20Parts/index.html
Deems Davis # 406
Wings 9finishing finally!)
http://deemsrv10.com/

Marcus Cooper wrote:

[quote]

I don't think the plate itself is large enough to install platenuts. If I
were to do it over again, I would only hold the cable tiedown in place with
clecoes until I was fairly happy with the control settings and then use pop
rivets. I also plan to get the new aluminum cable anchors mentioned here
recently. Just me thinking out loud mostly, there are probably some better
ideas from those who have finished their machines.

Marcus

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owl40188(at)yahoo.com
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 9:46 pm    Post subject: hugo rv10 Reply with quote

Here is a recent accident report that might be related to losing trim.  Maybe someone on the list knows more about this.
 
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/GenPDF.asp?id=ATL06LA021&rpt=p
 
Niko
40188 Struggling with fuse side skins

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jesse(at)itecusa.org
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2006 5:47 am    Post subject: hugo rv10 Reply with quote

We installed the trim after the tail was completely assembled on #40241, so
you can take it off as well. You can bend the trim cable enough to thread
the bracket on, at least we could, without drilling out the rivets. You
should just need to take of the emp fairing, like Marcus said.

I don't see any reason why you couldn't fit all of the tail surfaces to the
cone after it is assembled to the fuse. I am sure they have it in the plans
in that order because the EMP/CONE kit is first and that is part of it. I
can't think of any other way. I don't think it could be inaccurate just on
the cone, but it if it more convenient to do it later (ie, only assemble it
once when the plane it finished and painted), then I can't see any reason
not to. ANYBODY, please let me know if there is any reason that this would
not be the case, because I am planning on doing that on #40415 as well
unless there is a good reason not to.

On the trim motor mounting, if you want to put your ELT back there in the
tail, that trim mount can hold a couple of nut plates that will make the ELT
easier to install and remove when you get to that. This would be much
easier to do before all of the tail surfaces are installed.

Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694

I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.

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jesse(at)itecusa.org
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2006 5:49 am    Post subject: hugo rv10 Reply with quote

Platenuts would be great if you can get them on there somehow that would
work. I don't know if you'd be able to get platenuts on the little
nut/bracket/plate/thingy. If you do, please send pictures.

Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694

I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.

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Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2006 7:23 am    Post subject: hugo rv10 Reply with quote

Why not ask the person that designed these to make the base a
little larger and have it drilled for 4 - #6 screws and nutplates. This
way it would be easily removed.

Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
Canopy on, painting interior this weekend.

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jesse(at)itecusa.org
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2006 8:02 am    Post subject: hugo rv10 Reply with quote

Or leave the base a little thicker to allow for machine countersinking and
tapping the holes for a screw.

Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694

I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.

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wvu(at)ameritel.net
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2006 8:55 am    Post subject: hugo rv10 Reply with quote

Seems like the singe-ear nutplates would work. I've seen nutplates having
two ears at 90deg to each other. Seems those would work also
Anh
#141
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