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Big tip on connecting the elevator trim

 
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Tim(at)MyRV10.com
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 9:36 pm    Post subject: Big tip on connecting the elevator trim Reply with quote

Here's one for the archives....

Tonight I installed my elevator trim. Connecting the
trim wires on the remote ends is the last of my wiring to
connect, so I'm happy about that. I spent close to an
hour or more trying everything I could to get the trim cables
pushed from the forward part of the elevator through the snap
bushings and coming out the back. It just was NOT going to
happen. There was almost no way to get in there to align
the cable with the holes inside the HS either. Especially
doing it with the Vertical Stab mounted in the way, it was
just not going to happen.

Then I had one of those fleeting moments of brilliance....
and after that, it took only a few minutes to get both
of them through. Save this tip if you haven't done this
yet.
First, get some wire like coathanger wire. I used some
old aluminum pin material from some hinges used in previous
construction. Put a light in the center of the HS, towards
the forward part. Use the light to sight into the snap
bushings from the rear and feed that wire up to the front.

With the wire in, use a needle nose to pull it out the
entrance point for the cable. Tape onto that something
that's about 3/16" or 1/4" thick and flexible. Maybe
pitot tubing...I used scrap pieces of strobe wiring. You'll
need about 2.5-3' of it.

Pull that stuff through except for a few inches to work with.
Use some heat shrink to join the end of the trim cable to
the end of the flexible stuff, straight and inline.

Now you can pull gently on that flexible line and it should
feed through relatively snag free, guiding the trim cables
through all of the snap bushings. Do each side about 6"
at a time until they're both out.
Additonal notes: I hadn't ordered that new aluminum trim
anchor that's been talked about on the list, but after
seeing how the angle of the original one is, I would
recommend that you buy those well in advance of when you
need them. I would bet they'd be much nicer. I had to
whack mine with a hammer to give them a little less angle
so they'd line up better. I had previously soldered them
up to be tougher, so this angle adjustment was even tougher
to do now. Do it all at once when you do it. Also, for
future reference, I don't think there's really any benefit
to hooking up that trim system until you're almost done with
your final assembly. I see no reason why it hindered me
in the building, and without it installed it gave me more
room to work in the tailcone pulling and attaching wires
and stuff.

Hope that saves a few people a few combined hours of time.
Wish I'd have started that way.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170


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n223rv(at)wolflakeairport
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 4:39 pm    Post subject: Big tip on connecting the elevator trim Reply with quote

I had very good success by taking some 3/8" tygon tubing (or other
flexible type tubing) and fishing it thorough from the back side of the
Horizontal stab through the snap bushings. Then feed the trim cable
from the front and slide it into the front of the tube. Push the cable
and pull the tubing at the same rate and the tubing will glide the cable
through the snap bushings out the back side of the HS in perfect
alignment.

Both sides took less than 5 minutes.
Of course it took me an hour to figure this out.....
-Mike Kraus
RV-4 Flying
RV-10 Fuse, wiring, instruments, FWF, whatever sounds like fun each
day.... It all has to get done

--


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bbreckenridge(at)gmail.co
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 5:11 pm    Post subject: Big tip on connecting the elevator trim Reply with quote

"Additonal notes:   I hadn't ordered that new aluminum trim anchor that's been talked about on the list, but after seeing how the angle of the original one is, I would recommend that you buy those well in advance of when you need them.  I would bet they'd be much nicer.  I had to whack mine with a hammer to give them a little less angle so they'd line up better.  I had previously soldered them up to be tougher, so this angle adjustment was even tougher to do now."
 
So, Tim:  Based on your experience with the sledge, do you think it unwise to purchase this beautifully crafted "nut on a plate" that doesn't appear to be easily smacked into a different position?
 
Bruce
40018


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Tim(at)MyRV10.com
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 8:06 pm    Post subject: Big tip on connecting the elevator trim Reply with quote

No, based on my experience, I think that the people that said "the
nut angle at 25 degreess is too much and it needs to be 15 degrees"
is correct, and I believe it would be best to purchase the beautifully
crafted "nut on a plate". I think that would give superior
results. In my case, I put together the steel one that will rust
eventually, and when I want to re-do it I'll have to buy a new
plate and the new nut type. If a builder did it with the new
nut, the worst that would happen is they'd have to buy a new
set of plates and use the original van's nut that came with the kit.
Better to do it the best way first....unlike what I ended up
doing.

Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current section: Final Assembly
DO NOT ARCHIVE
bruce breckenridge wrote:
Quote:
"Additonal notes: I hadn't ordered that new aluminum trim anchor
that's been talked about on the list, but after seeing how the angle of
the original one is, I would recommend that you buy those well in
advance of when you need them. I would bet they'd be much nicer. I had
to whack mine with a hammer to give them a little less angle so they'd
line up better. I had previously soldered them up to be tougher, so
this angle adjustment was even tougher to do now."

So, Tim: Based on your experience with the sledge, do you think it
unwise to purchase this beautifully crafted "nut on a plate" that
doesn't appear to be easily smacked into a different position?

Bruce
40018


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