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Tightening head bolts on Jab 2200, which method is best?

 
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ftyoder(at)yoderbuilt.com
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 2:07 pm    Post subject: Tightening head bolts on Jab 2200, which method is best? Reply with quote

Frank,

Assuming that the head bolts were originally assembled with
anti-corrision/anit-seize compound and torque to 24 ft. lbs., you re-torque
to 20 ft. lbs. to see if there has been cylinder head over heating. Do not
back off the bolt first or you negate the test. If they move, look at your
cooling ducts and flight profile for reducing max CHT's. The bolts should
not move on this check.

This procedure is different, for example, than re-torque of wood props where
you do loosen the bolt a little prior to re-torque. These bolts are
assembled dry and you loosen them to relieve any binding from corrosion,
etc.

Hope this helps.

Tim

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Frankd



Joined: 28 Mar 2008
Posts: 64

PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2014 8:14 am    Post subject: Re: Tightening head bolts on Jab 2200, which method is best? Reply with quote

Hi Tim,

I can understand your logic to just check at 20Ft/Lbs, but why does the manual ask for 24ft/Lbs??

In any case, I will not back off the bolts and see what I get with 20ft/lbs. Nothing should move. Right?

Then I can go to 24ft/lbs and check per the manual spec.

If it does move at 20Ft/Lbs does that indicate the heads were overheated at some point. I'm the 2nd owner of this engine and on my first flight it got up to 400 DegC CHT, now I run about 300-310 DegC which I'm happy with.

Thanks for the advice
FrankD


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ftyoder(at)yoderbuilt.com
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2014 2:58 pm    Post subject: Tightening head bolts on Jab 2200, which method is best? Reply with quote

Hi Frank,

Have you gone to the Jabiru USA web site? I think this topic is covered by
Pete in his Tec. Tips, if not there it is on Jabiru's site. Do you have a
Overhaul Manual?

24# is the orig. torque, if you remove the head then you would torque to
24#. If the heads have over heated you will get movement, maybe only one or
two bolts closest to the exhaust valves. You do not re-torque to 24#, you
will just keep pushing the head into the steel barrel.

I hope you meant to say 400F not C, 400C is 752F YIKES! I think the book
says 304F max for cruise, so you should be okay. I think the book says you
can go a little higher on climb out. If the bolts move at 20# the heads are
getting to hot. Stop at 20# and see if you can adjust the baffles in the
tunnels. This procedure is also on the Jabiru web sites.

I have a 3300 SN 346 in my Thorp T-211 and #6 is the hottest cyl. What are
you flying?

Tim

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