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jwd3ca(at)gmail.com
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 Posted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 5:41 pm Post subject: Cold Start |
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Nothing wrong with using a flat (but flexible) feeler gauge. Here's what works for me: get yourself a *brass* .010 feeler gauge (or shim stock). Makes no difference how wide it is, about 1/2" is good, and it needs to be long enough to bridge the two coil posts. Loosen the coil hold-down screws, lift up the coil and place the brass strip between the coil arms and the flywheel magnets. The coil will stick itself to the magnets, with the strip in between. Tighten up the screws and work the brass strip out. Voila, perfectly set .010" gap. Repeat for the other coil.
On 22 November 2014 at 17:51, FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com (flyadive(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
| Quote: | Good Job Bobby...
But, you do not use flat feeler gauges on curved surfaces - As you found out. Get a few sizes of Gauge Wires... Wires as in cylindrical. You may want to make up a set of Go / No-Go gauges.
BUT! GOOD JOB and solving the problem.
Good Job Gary!
Barry
On Sat, Nov 22, 2014 at 4:43 PM, <BobbyPaulk(at)comcast.net (BobbyPaulk(at)comcast.net)> wrote:
| Quote: | List
 Many thanks to Gary Aman for telling about setting the air gap between the magnets and the pickup coils to .008.
I had been checking mine at every "conditional" with a .010 flat 1/2" wide feeler gauge and getting a nice snug fit. What I was not aware of was the curvature of the flywheel was causing the drag on the feeler gauge. I cut the feeler gauge in half the long way and found out that the true gap was .012 at 3 places and .014 at another. Â
I cut 2 pieces of a .008 thick feeler gauge and put a small section at each end of the magnet air gap near each bolt. I held the coil snugly against the feeler gauges and tightened the bolts.
After doing both coils we pushed the plane out and it started on the 3rd or 4th blade from sitting cold all night. It was not as cold as it was last Sat (mid 40's at night but warmed up to 62 ). It has never started that easily even when new. The .010 would probably be O.K. but I went with the .008 since the cold weather is just starting.
We are going to do the same thing to the 2200 at the nearby airport when the owner returns from vacation.
I will let you know how it comes out.
Bobby ( age 76 )
Zodiac 601 XL "B"
Jabiru 3300 S/N 1141
Sensenich 64" x 51" Prop
Bing Carb 260 Main & 290 Needle Jet
Status - Flying 235 hrs.
_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
ank">www.mrrace.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
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--
Regards, Â J.
-----------------------------
J. Davis, Â
- Zenith STOL CH750 C-FJNJ:Â Jab 3300, Whilrwind GA prop, AeroCarb
- Sonex #325 (ex)C-FJNJ, Jab 3300a, Prince P-Tip, Aerocarb
- former C-IGGY CH701 owner/builder
- see these and more at http://cleco.ca
[quote][b]
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BARRY CHECK 6
Joined: 15 Mar 2011
Posts: 738
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| Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 6:00 am Post subject: Cold Start |
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Bobby:
Yes, there is a difference / reason why you do not use flat feeler gauges on curved surfaces and you did find out about that. The operation of cutting the feeler gauge also brings up a possible issue of the edges curling up. This is not a good machine shop practice. Yes, I know you are not working under machine shop/Mil Spec requirements; but after all you did arrive at the problem with improper tools. It is very good that Gary recognized the problem and the cure was easy. It is very good that you checked and corrected the gap. It's amazing how such a small thing could cause all these starting problems.
Just for S&G's... Get brass gauge pins and triple check your gaps. The reason for pins Vs flat stock is to reduce the contact area and be able to match the curvature. More than likely you will not find any difference, unless there is drag because of the cut edges. I do see a inspection problem. You will have to use two (2) pins at the same time and that makes for extra aggravation.
I make these statements on machine shop/Mil Spec procedures because I worked in Mil Spec machine shops for a huge part of my work career as a machinist and QA Manager.
Barry
<jwd3ca(at)gmail.com (jwd3ca(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
[quote]Nothing wrong with using a flat (but flexible) feeler gauge. Here's what works for me: get yourself a *brass* .010 feeler gauge (or shim stock). Makes no difference how wide it is, about 1/2" is good, and it needs to be long enough to bridge the two coil posts. Loosen the coil hold-down screws, lift up the coil and place the brass strip between the coil arms and the flywheel magnets. The coil will stick itself to the magnets, with the strip in between. Tighten up the screws and work the brass strip out. Voila, perfectly set .010" gap. Repeat for the other coil.
On 22 November 2014 at 17:51, FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com (flyadive(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
| Quote: | Good Job Bobby...
But, you do not use flat feeler gauges on curved surfaces - As you found out. Get a few sizes of Gauge Wires... Wires as in cylindrical. You may want to make up a set of Go / No-Go gauges.
BUT! GOOD JOB and solving the problem.
Good Job Gary!
Barry
On Sat, Nov 22, 2014 at 4:43 PM, <BobbyPaulk(at)comcast.net (BobbyPaulk(at)comcast.net)> wrote:
| Quote: | List
Many thanks to Gary Aman for telling about setting the air gap between the magnets and the pickup coils to .008.
I had been checking mine at every "conditional" with a .010 flat 1/2" wide feeler gauge and getting a nice snug fit. What I was not aware of was the curvature of the flywheel was causing the drag on the feeler gauge. I cut the feeler gauge in half the long way and found out that the true gap was .012 at 3 places and .014 at another.
I cut 2 pieces of a .008 thick feeler gauge and put a small section at each end of the magnet air gap near each bolt. I held the coil snugly against the feeler gauges and tightened the bolts.
After doing both coils we pushed the plane out and it started on the 3rd or 4th blade from sitting cold all night. It was not as cold as it was last Sat (mid 40's at night but warmed up to 62 ). It has never started that easily even when new. The .010 would probably be O.K. but I went with the .008 since the cold weather is just starting.
We are going to do the same thing to the 2200 at the nearby airport when the owner returns from vacation.
I will let you know how it comes out.
Bobby ( age 76 )
Zodiac 601 XL "B"
Jabiru 3300 S/N 1141
Sensenich 64" x 51" Prop
Bing Carb 260 Main & 290 Needle Jet
Status - Flying 235 hrs.
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[b]
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zeprep251(at)aol.com
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| Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 10:54 am Post subject: Cold Start |
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Those of us in our mid 70's aren't quite so technical. We've found that 2 thickness' of news print placed between the magnets and the pickups works pretty good,even holds itself there while you snug up the bolts. Hope the newspaper people have held their tolerances close to .004,cause I haven't checked lately. G A
Sent from my iPhone
| Quote: | On Nov 23, 2014, at 8:59 AM, FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> wrote:
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pete(at)usjabiru.com
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| Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 11:01 am Post subject: Cold Start |
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A typical business card works well also.
Pete
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BobbyPaulk(at)comcast.net
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| Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2014 1:36 pm Post subject: Cold Start |
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List,
Last night was 30 degrees and had warmed up to 59 by about 11 a.m.
I choked the Jabiru with throttle closed and pulled the prop thru about 8 blades. I finished my walk around in about 5 or 6 minutes.
I got in turn on the ignition held the throttle closed and spun the engine - it started in less than 8 seconds. This is far better than ever on the first start of the day.
Setting the magnet to coil air gap to .008 really made a difference. Mine was .012 to .014 or more so the factory recommended .010 may have worked as well.
This tip from up in Canada was worth a lot more than what I gave as a donation to help keep this list going.
Thanks again guys.
Bobby ( age 76 )
Zodiac 601 XL "B"
Jabiru 3300 S/N 1141
Sensenich 64" x 51" Prop
Bing Carb 260 Main & 290 Needle Jet
Status - Flying 235.9 hrs.
[quote][b]
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