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Proper Deburring Technique

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davevanlanen(at)sbcglobal
Guest

Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 7:18 pm Post subject: Proper Deburring Technique

I have a procedural question regarding deburring.  How much is enough in

terms of material removed?  If I use the file technique with a light touch

to avoid scratches, or if I use the drill bit technique with minimal turns

to avoid countersinking, it will take off the noticeable burrs.  However, if

I run my fingernail towards the hole, there is still a slight "ridge" right

at the edge of the hole.  Do I need to get all of this material off, so that

there is absolutely no "raised" area at all?  If I do that with the file, it

tends to scratch the surface.  If I try to remove it with additional turns

of the drill bit, it looks like it may be starting to countersink the hole,

which I know you're not supposed to do.  



Any advice for me? 



Thanks,

Dave Van Lanen

Madison, WI

601 XL

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p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att
Guest

Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 7:55 pm Post subject: Proper Deburring Technique

Hi Dave,



I think it is important to take off all the raised area around the 

hole so the pieces of sheet metal mate completely.  As I understand 

it, this is not so  important where the rivets mate to the holes, but 

I try to get that area flat too.



I don't think light scratches are a problem, so I don't worry about 

them.  I just use a smooth file and let the scratches come along with 

the burrs.  I intend to paint my plane anyway, so the scratches will 

disappear under the paint.



Good luck,



Paul

XL wings

At 07:17 PM 1/16/2006, you wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  

<davevanlanen(at)sbcglobal.net>



I have a procedural question regarding deburring.  How much is enough in

terms of material removed?  If I use the file technique with a light touch

to avoid scratches, or if I use the drill bit technique with minimal turns

to avoid countersinking, it will take off the noticeable burrs.  However, if

I run my fingernail towards the hole, there is still a slight "ridge" right

at the edge of the hole.  Do I need to get all of this material off, so that

there is absolutely no "raised" area at all?  If I do that with the file, it

tends to scratch the surface.  If I try to remove it with additional turns

of the drill bit, it looks like it may be starting to countersink the hole,

which I know you're not supposed to do.



Any advice for me?



Thanks,

Dave Van Lanen

Madison, WI

601 XL

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Kevin Bonds

Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 171
Location: Nashville, Tn

Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 10:39 pm Post subject: Proper Deburring Technique

Dave 



I have toiled over this one as well. Don't feel alone. I have come to the

conclusion that there is no perfect method. I use the drill bit and try not

to countersink, but always seems to be, as you say, "starting to

countersink" on me too. I just try not to overdo it, but still remove all

that is raised. Both methods worry me as it seems the scratches from the

file, as well as the stopping and starting of the drill bit (which can leave

tiny gouges), could lead to cracks. Also doesn't seem too many Zodie's are

falling out of the sky because of this and I figure my technique is as good

as the next guys. Reckon  surely it can't be the absolute worst at least.

Anyway this is what helps me sleep at night. 



Kevin Bonds



Nashville TN



601XL Corvair powered; Plans building.



Empennage done; working on wings and engine.



http://home.comcast.net/~kevinbonds



 



do not archive DO NOT ARCHIVE 



 



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_________________
KevinBonds
Nashville, TN
Plans-building Zenith CH601XL w/Corvair Power
http://home.comcast.net/~kevinbonds

Kevin Bonds

Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 171
Location: Nashville, Tn

Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 11:08 pm Post subject: Proper Deburring Technique

 	  Quote: 	
		  I figure my technique is as good as the next guys.


	


 	  Quote: 	
		  >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>


	




BTW regarding my last post: I call that my "faster than a bear philosophy".

In case of bear attack, you don't have to be able to outrun a bear, just

need to run faster than the guy next to you.  



Kevin Bonds

Nashville TN

601XL Corvair powered; Plans building.

Empennage done; working on wings and engine.

http://home.comcast.net/~kevinbonds



do not archive DO NOT ARCHIVE

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_________________
KevinBonds
Nashville, TN
Plans-building Zenith CH601XL w/Corvair Power
http://home.comcast.net/~kevinbonds

Gbrac80(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 3:16 am Post subject: Proper Deburring Technique

MSC (_www.mscdirect.com_ (http://www.mscdirect.com) ) sells a  large variety 

of deburring tools for internal and external radii, for less than  ten 

dollars.  These comprise a handle with a swiveling deburring blade that  removes the 

burr with a simple rotary motion of the wrist.

Rgfd,

Mike.

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shilocom(at)mcmsys.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 5:19 am Post subject: Proper Deburring Technique

I know zenith likes the file method, but over the years I've found that the

rotary tool that looks like a countersink tool on an offset screw driver

handle is the best.  In my opinion you don't need to remove the raised area

around the hole, because this area will be reformed in the riveting process.

My way of doing is run your finger over it and if it feels smooth it's ok.

This opinion comes from buck riveting and should mostly apply to Pop

riveting. bob U.



---

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shilocom(at)mcmsys.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 5:19 am Post subject: Proper Deburring Technique

Be a little careful, most scratches, and especially those that you can feel

don't "disappear under the paint".  If you remove the ridge you will most

likely increase the size of the hole and fit up of any rivet is important to

it's strength.  bob U.



---

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Larry McFarland

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 36
Location: East Moline, Illinois

Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 6:47 am Post subject: Proper Deburring Technique

Dave,

Get yourself a deburring tool with a swiveling tip.  Insert it in the 

hole and pull it around the hole deburing

one side. Remove only enough to get rid of the burr.  Files and drills 

are seldom a complete solution to removing

edge ridges and burrs.  The deburing tool will do it all with 

considerably less effort and potential damage.

You only need to remove enough to be able to draw your finger across an 

edge without sensing a sharp one.



Larry McFarland - 601HDS

do not archive



Dave VanLanen wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		  



I have a procedural question regarding deburring.  How much is enough in

terms of material removed?  If I use the file technique with a light touch

to avoid scratches, or if I use the drill bit technique with minimal turns

to avoid countersinking, it will take off the noticeable burrs.  However, if

I run my fingernail towards the hole, there is still a slight "ridge" right

at the edge of the hole.  Do I need to get all of this material off, so that

there is absolutely no "raised" area at all?  If I do that with the file, it

tends to scratch the surface.  If I try to remove it with additional turns

of the drill bit, it looks like it may be starting to countersink the hole,

which I know you're not supposed to do.  



Any advice for me? 



Thanks,

Dave Van Lanen

Madison, WI

601 XL

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_________________
Larry McFarland - 601HDS - Stratus

lrepilot(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 8:56 am Post subject: Proper Deburring Technique

The Vargus deburring tool described by several people is great when the hole size is very large (1/2 inch or better) but is not terribly good for 1/8 rivet holes. What I have done for these is to get a sponge rubber sanding block from Home Depot or Lowes, and use it on the concrete floor to break it in (almost wear it out). It then works great for the long rows of rivets. It also is very effective for smoothing the sheared edges of the parts. It leaves a polished finish on the aluminum and the holes are as clean as they can be.

   

  Ken

  Empennage 90%



Larry McFarland <larrymc(at)qconline.com> wrote:

  



Dave,

Get yourself a deburring tool with a swiveling tip. Insert it in the 

hole and pull it around the hole deburing

one side. Remove only enough to get rid of the burr. Files and drills 

are seldom a complete solution to removing

edge ridges and burrs. The deburing tool will do it all with 

considerably less effort and potential damage.

You only need to remove enough to be able to draw your finger across an 

edge without sensing a sharp one.



Larry McFarland - 601HDS

do not archive



Dave VanLanen wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		  



I have a procedural question regarding deburring. How much is enough in

terms of material removed? If I use the file technique with a light touch

to avoid scratches, or if I use the drill bit technique with minimal turns

to avoid countersinking, it will take off the noticeable burrs. However, if

I run my fingernail towards the hole, there is still a slight "ridge" right

at the edge of the hole. Do I need to get all of this material off, so that

there is absolutely no "raised" area at all? If I do that with the file, it

tends to scratch the surface. If I try to remove it with additional turns

of the drill bit, it looks like it may be starting to countersink the hole,

which I know you're not supposed to do. 



Any advice for me? 



Thanks,

Dave Van Lanen

Madison, WI

601 XL

 

 

 



 




	






  

			

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