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fabric temp/ paint

 
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roncarolnikko(at)hotmail.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 11:04 am    Post subject: fabric temp/ paint Reply with quote

What temps have been used to shrink the fabric? I could not bring myself to
go 350 on the fuselage as it was starting to deform the longerons. now I am
ready for final shrinking on the tail group and want it as tight as
possible.
I used almost one gallon of polybrush on fuselage, and almost as much
polyspray. The white however covered well with the first coat and the
second coat was a formality. barely over a half gallon. Is there any
advantage to more color? I have HVLP but used my old bottom feeder for this
as I have more experience with the older style. Not a technique for
beginers, but on autos I pull the needle way back for lots of paint, stay
close and move really fast. You can give another fast pass if needed or
move away if it went on heavy. On single stage paints this allows
completing the coat and tying in the wet edge at the starting point. May
not be needed with polytone, but did it by habit. Perhaps this why it
covered so well. Ron NB Or


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Jim Shumaker



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 106

PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 11:30 am    Post subject: fabric temp/ paint Reply with quote

Ron

250 degrees F.

More paint is more weight. Do you want to fly well or show well? One of the tricks that was employed with the early kitfoxes was a very thin paint coat to save weight.

Jim Shumaker

ron schick <roncarolnikko(at)hotmail.com> wrote:


What temps have been used to shrink the fabric? I could not bring myself to
go 350 on the fuselage as it was starting to deform the longerons. now I am
ready for final shrinking on the tail group and want it as tight as
possible.
I used almost one gallon of polybrush on fuselage, and almost as much
polyspray. The white however covered well with the first coat and the
second coat was a formality. barely over a half gallon. Is there any
advantage to more color? I have HVLP but used my old bottom feeder for this
as I have more experience with the older style. Not a technique for
beginers, but on autos I pull the needle way back for lots of paint, stay
close and move really fast. You can give another fast pass if needed or
move away if it went on heavy. On single stage paints this allows
completing the coat and tying in the wet edge at the starting point. May
not be needed with polytone, but did it by habit. Perhaps this why it
covered so well. Ron NB Or


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Jim Shumaker
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rjdaugh(at)rapidnet.com
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 12:13 pm    Post subject: fabric temp/ paint Reply with quote

300F most places. 275 F in some places.

350F is too high for our foxes. And be sure your iron calibration is
accurate.

Randy

.
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aldaniels(at)fmtc.com
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 2:15 pm    Post subject: fabric temp/ paint Reply with quote

On the 5,6,7 I use 325/350 in most places. On cold days the fabric seems
a little loose when I didn't fully shrink. The trailing edge of the wing
seems to be the place you have to watch. The Poly system is dead simple,
but there are a few tricks. Were in Oregon are you, I am in eastern Oregon.

Randy Daughenbaugh wrote:

[quote]

300F most places. 275 F in some places.

350F is too high for our foxes. And be sure your iron calibration is
accurate.

Randy

.
--


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Lynn Matteson



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 2:29 pm    Post subject: fabric temp/ paint Reply with quote

Did you reinforce the trailing edge of the wing with 3/8" aluminum
tubing per the later Classic IV manual? I did and I used 310F for all
my shrinking.

Lynn

On Saturday, January 21, 2006, at 05:15 PM, Alan & Linda Daniels wrote:

Quote:

<aldaniels(at)fmtc.com>

On the 5,6,7 I use 325/350 in most places. On cold days the fabric
seems
a little loose when I didn't fully shrink. The trailing edge of the
wing
seems to be the place you have to watch. The Poly system is dead
simple,
but there are a few tricks. Were in Oregon are you, I am in eastern
Oregon.

Randy Daughenbaugh wrote:


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Kitfox IV-Jabiru 2200
N369LM
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 2:30 pm    Post subject: fabric temp/ paint Reply with quote

Alan I am in North Bend (oth) next to Coos Bay. Ron NB Or
do not archive

Quote:
From: Alan & Linda Daniels <aldaniels(at)fmtc.com>
Reply-To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: fabric temp/ paint
Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2006 15:15:15 -0700


<aldaniels(at)fmtc.com>

On the 5,6,7 I use 325/350 in most places. On cold days the fabric seems
a little loose when I didn't fully shrink. The trailing edge of the wing
seems to be the place you have to watch. The Poly system is dead simple,
but there are a few tricks. Were in Oregon are you, I am in eastern Oregon



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Brett Walmsley



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 47
Location: Savannah, GA

PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 5:31 pm    Post subject: fabric temp/ paint Reply with quote

I went to 350 everywhere.
I also put stiffeners in trailing edge of wing.
---


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Model IV 1200/912UL
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rjdaugh(at)rapidnet.com
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 9:33 am    Post subject: fabric temp/ paint Reply with quote

Lynn,
No, I didn't. I am pretty sure that the series 5 manual doesn't call for.

Al (see below) uses higher temperatures and does say to watch the trailing
edge of the wing. I haven't noticed any loosening fabric though.

Randy

.
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Lynn Matteson



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 8:03 pm    Post subject: fabric temp/ paint Reply with quote

Randy-
You probably won't see the loosening of the fabric, just a "scalloped"
look to the trailing edge, if viewed from a low angle, say, from the
tip in to the root. It's one of those things that wouldn't be noticed
normally, and I wouldn't have thought about it if I hadn't seen it in
the later Classic IV manual.

Lynn
On Monday, January 23, 2006, at 12:32 PM, Randy Daughenbaugh wrote:

Quote:

<rjdaugh(at)rapidnet.com>

Lynn,
No, I didn't. I am pretty sure that the series 5 manual doesn't call
for.

Al (see below) uses higher temperatures and does say to watch the
trailing
edge of the wing. I haven't noticed any loosening fabric though.

Randy

.




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Kitfox IV-Jabiru 2200
N369LM
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 8:45 pm    Post subject: fabric temp/ paint Reply with quote

I was advised to stiffen the trailing edge on my 5 and
I am glad I did. One person ran diagonals from the
ribs to the center of the trailing edge between the
ribs. Wish I did that. It only takes a little AL or
plywood to do it. Very light for the gain.

I did as the other person advised and sprayed
expanding foam into the trailing edge to keep it from
buckling easily. I like the extra stiffness, but both
methods would have been better.

I kept my heat to 300 except over the tanks where I
went to 315. Much more temp and I would worry about
the false ribs snapping too.

Kurt S. S-5 w/70 hrs

--- Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> wrote:

Quote:
Randy-
You probably won't see the loosening of the fabric,
just a "scalloped" look to the trailing edge, if
viewed from a

Quote:
low angle, say, from the tip in to the root.
It's one of those things that
wouldn't be noticed normally, and I wouldn't have
thought

Quote:
about it if I hadn't seen it in the later Classic IV
manual.

Quote:

Lynn
On Monday, January 23, 2006, at 12:32 PM, Randy
Daughenbaugh wrote:

>
Daughenbaugh"
> <rjdaugh(at)rapidnet.com>
>
> Lynn,
> No, I didn't. I am pretty sure that the series 5
manual doesn't call for.
>
> Al (see below) uses higher temperatures and does
say to watch the trailing edge of the wing.
> I haven't noticed any loosening fabric though.
>
> Randy


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