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Body Filler

 
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greerdans(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2006 6:15 am    Post subject: Body Filler Reply with quote

While riveting the Elevator the bucking bar was not positioned correctly over one of the rivets and I now have a dimple in the skin. (Naturally, the top skin) Of course, trying to improve it with the rivet gun I made I slightly worse and it exhibits slight oil canning.
 
My question is, how well does the body filler work when I get to the finish/painting stage? Is the filler stiff enough to firm up the dimple so that it won't oil can? I'd hate to have a situation where it would still oil can and crack the paint. The dimple is located near where the foam ribs (at the rear spa) are located so I will be gaining some support internally from the foam and pro seal.....is this sufficient or should I add a stiffener? If I ad the stiffener it will make the dimple convex on the skin which I assume will be more difficult to hide with filler.
 
Thanks for your help.
 
George Costigan


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Tim(at)MyRV10.com
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2006 7:01 am    Post subject: Body Filler Reply with quote

I think I'd try to stiffen anything up if you're worried about oil
canning at all. The fillers will maybe help, but like you
said, you'd hate to crack the paint or filler from oil canning.
You might consider just gluing in a stiffner using some
.063 angle, and some proseal. That may be plenty to give it some
added backing, and prevent you from having to dimple/rivet it
again.

Don't worry, yours isn't the only one that will have a few
hidden dings. Wink
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
greerdans(at)aol.com wrote:
Quote:
While riveting the Elevator the bucking bar was not positioned correctly
over one of the rivets and I now have a dimple in the skin. (Naturally,
the top skin) Of course, trying to improve it with the rivet gun I
made I slightly worse and it exhibits slight oil canning.

My question is, how well does the body filler work when I get to the
finish/painting stage? Is the filler stiff enough to firm up the dimple
so that it won't oil can? I'd hate to have a situation where it would
still oil can and crack the paint. The dimple is located near where the
foam ribs (at the rear spa) are located so I will be gaining some
support internally from the foam and pro seal.....is this sufficient or
should I add a stiffener? If I ad the stiffener it will make the dimple
convex on the skin which I assume will be more difficult to hide with
filler.

Thanks for your help.

George Costigan


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Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

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coop85(at)bellsouth.net
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2006 12:10 pm    Post subject: Body Filler Reply with quote

You’ll have to forgive this bit if it’s way off, I’m reaching back mentally to around 1998 while working on my RV-6.  I remember a discussion thread about stiffening the fuselage just aft of the baggage compartment because folks were worried about oil canning.  Turns out the stiffeners did more harm than good by moving the stress points unpredictably.  You may want to do a search on Matronics in other lists (RV-6) for such things.  As Tim mentioned, it’s not like you’re the first with a little bondo here and there and I don’t remember seeing a lot of airplanes with cracked paint due to filler.
 
Marcus
40286
 
--


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indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2006 6:49 pm    Post subject: Body Filler Reply with quote

I have read the other post to your question and indeed it is true, we all
have somethings to hide.

If there is no support to back up that ding, then another option is to use
an epoxy filler rather than a polyester filler. You can then fill it below
the level of the height of contour, epoxy microballon mix, sand it out,
clean it, wet it out with resin, apply the cloth in a layer or two, let it
cure. Sand out again, then prime for final painting. The trick is to make
sure the layer or two of cloth is below she final sand out level.

I am talking about 1.4 to 2 oz glass. This will prevent the the cracking of
the paint. AeroSpace Composite Products in California has the weight
glasses you will need.

JOhn Gonzalez

Elevators finished riveting this weekend, there is a lot of stuff going on
with the foam blocks and the rear spar and the trailing edge. I think the
biggest problem was getting the rear spar back to the correct flange angle
and doing so consistently and without bending the web. The dimpling on the
rear spar seemed to open the flange up and it was difficult for me to get
the above. EEEEEE!

Getting perfection is very difficult the first time you do it.
Quote:
From: greerdans(at)aol.com
Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Body Filler
Date: Sun, 22 Jan 2006 09:14:36 -0500

While riveting the Elevator the bucking bar was not positioned correctly
over one of the rivets and I now have a dimple in the skin. (Naturally, the
top skin) Of course, trying to improve it with the rivet gun I made I
slightly worse and it exhibits slight oil canning.

My question is, how well does the body filler work when I get to the
finish/painting stage? Is the filler stiff enough to firm up the dimple so
that it won't oil can? I'd hate to have a situation where it would still
oil can and crack the paint. The dimple is located near where the foam ribs
(at the rear spa) are located so I will be gaining some support internally
from the foam and pro seal.....is this sufficient or should I add a
stiffener? If I ad the stiffener it will make the dimple convex on the skin
which I assume will be more difficult to hide with filler.

Thanks for your help.

George Costigan


- The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum -
 

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
Back to top
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