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Impulse Coupler
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Tim Olson



Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2633

PostPosted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 5:45 am    Post subject: Impulse Coupler Reply with quote

I have the impulse mag on the left and Lightspeed on the right
and have them both active for starting and it works well.
The lightspeed backs off the timing too, which makes this
OK. I'm guessing most electronic ignitions do this.
So your plan sounds good.
Tim

On 3/14/2017 8:24 AM, Dan Masys wrote:
Quote:


Same story on my -10. Flew it for about 400 hours without a Slick start and
without knowing I even needed one. Always started great cold, but became
increasingly hard to start hot, till I once had to just leave the plane
overnight at an outlying airport. No fun. The Slick start module plus
IRAN'd mags solved the problem, but interestingly the mags are just a bit
over 450 hrs since the last maintenance and it's getting increasingly hard
to start the bird when it's hot, again.

This time around on mag maintenance, am probably going to go with the
Surefly electronic mag replacement (https://www.surefly.net/ ), and am
tempted to replace the right (non-retard) mag and leave the left mag with
Slickstart, and wire it so both the electronic ignition and the retarded
timing mag are active at startup. Surefly fires at TDC below 400 rpm and
Slickstart retards to TDC and increases dwell when energized via starter
circuit, if I understand correctly.

Any reason not to have both mags firing at TDC at startup? Seems like it
would maximize the likelihood of at least one cylinder firing during hot
start operations.

-Dan Masys
N104LD 960 hrs TTSN

----------------------------

Time: 05:23:52 PM PST US
Subject: Re: Impulse Coupler
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Most of the new starters really spin the engine with a good battery - enough
to
generate a spark from the mag without the need of any augmentation. See if
you
can find an old battery - one that barely spins the engine. And add in some
worn plugs, with gaps at their maximums instead of minimums. Does it still
start?
Here's the real test: For safety, pull all the plugs. Hook up plug#1 to the
harness,
and lay it on top of a cylinder where it has a good ground. Now slowly turn
the prop past TDC on #1. If you had an impulse mag you'd see it spark. With
no "slick start" you won't. Now repeat, but turn the prop faster and faster
until you see a spark. That's the minimum RPM you'll need to start the
engine.
You'd probably find it hard to hand-prop this engine. But maybe that's a
good thing?
duawil wrote:
> I dont understand the required part of this discussion. I have a Vans new
experimental
Lycoming D4A5 without the Slick start option and I have never had any
trouble starting. What am I missing?
>



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 7:33 am    Post subject: Impulse Coupler Reply with quote

Dan;
Im around where you are in hours since maintenence. I don't have any issues with starting however- no slickstart installed. I have always started with BOTH. I have found BOTH makes starting easier than grounding one MAG. Yes, even with hot starts.

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Joined: 03 Jan 2009
Posts: 759
Location: Castro Valley, CA

PostPosted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 11:13 am    Post subject: Re: Impulse Coupler Reply with quote

rv10flyer(at)live.com wrote:
Dan;
Im around where you are in hours since maintenence. I don't have any issues with starting however- no slickstart installed. I have always started with BOTH. I have found BOTH makes starting easier than grounding one MAG. Yes, even with hot starts.

--


If you are starting with 'normal', e.g., non - retarded timing mags, there is a risk of 'kick-back', where if rpm's are low enough and the mag fires at 25 deg BTDC the prop will swing backwards - possibly breaking some teeth off the ring gear or starter. ($$$)


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 9:15 am    Post subject: Impulse Coupler Reply with quote

Yes, you'll need a Slick Start. I didn't really understand much when I
took shipment and did inventory but I missed the fact that my engine
bill included the price of the Slick Start but didn't include the actual
unit. When I got around to finishing up the FWF work I discovered I
needed it. Sometime after I bought and installed it I discovered I had
paid for it twice. Just a reminder that inventory is important.

Oh, BTW, it all works great. Easy cold starts despite the dumbass light
weight starter (soon to be changed out) and rough but easy hot starts
(do nothing different except keep the boost pump off).

Bill "swapping out Slicks for rebuilts at 800 hours just because" Watson

On 3/13/2017 11:46 AM, Lenny Iszak wrote:
Quote:


Vernon,

Mine shipped with a retard breaker mag on the left. You'll need a Slick Start module for starting, and wire using their diagrams.

--------
Lenny
N311LZ


Read this topic online here:

http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=467239#467239




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Bob Turner



Joined: 03 Jan 2009
Posts: 759
Location: Castro Valley, CA

PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 11:25 am    Post subject: Re: Impulse Coupler Reply with quote

My 'new' SlickStart from Vans clearly wasn't new - it had a yellow tag on it from Slick. I called Vans, and they apologized profusely, and offered either for me to send it back for a new one, or keep it for the OH unit price. I chose the latter, Vans sent a check for the difference. Point is, there are some lower cost options other than new. Sorry I don't remember the OH price, but it has worked just fine. I'm not sure 'overhauled' is the right word. It was returned to Vans, they ran it by Slick who tested it and said it was okay. Just not new anymore.

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