 |
Matronics Email Lists
Web Forum Interface to the Matronics Email Lists
|
| View previous topic :: View next topic |
| Author |
Message |
ceengland7(at)gmail.com
Guest
|
 Posted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 6:41 pm Post subject: Can Someone PLEASE Provide A Recommendation For A Plunger S |
 |
|
On 6/8/2017 9:22 PM, William Hunter wrote:
| Quote: | v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} .shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);} <![endif]--> <![endif]--> <![endif]-->
Greetings,
I have built a fiberglass air filter box that has an automatic alternate air door that I want to monitor with a micro switch and I was hoping someone could please give me a recommendation for a micro switch to purchase.
The construction of this air filter box is of ˝ inch Divinycell foam board encapsulated with two layers of fiberglass (see attached photo) and the alternate air door is a simple fiberglass flapper valve that is held shut by the spring action of the fiberglass valve and two magnets.
The design goal is that the flapper valve will shut when the engine is not running and then after the engine is started the spring action and the magnets will hold the flapper valve shut. At times when the air filter becomes clogged (ice or debris) the engine vacuum will pull on the flapper door with enough suction force that the magnets will separate and the door will open into the air box and allow unfiltered air from the engine compartment to flow to the engine. The magnets are encapsulated in the fiberglass of the door and the air box walls so there is not fear of them falling into the engine.
So…getting back to the switch…it needs to have the following attributes:
-Plunger type switch that has a very light spring that forces the switch plunger to the extended position.
-When the switch is pushed in the contacts need to be open and when the switch is allowed to extend the contacts need to close so my indicator light will illuminate.
-The threaded shaft of the switch should be about ˝ inch long.
-Threaded shaft is made of plastic
My goal is to install the switch from the outside so that the switch body is on the outside of the box and only the plunger assembly is inserted into the sidewall mounting hole just long enough so that the switch will be pressed in when the flapper valve is closed. If the threaded shaft is plastic then I can use epoxy to glue the switch threads into the sidewall of the air box and therefore it would not need a nut on the inside wall of the air box so there would be no worry about the nut falling into the engine intake.
Here is a picture of a switch that could work…I would not use the nuts and I would also prefer that the body and the plunger were made of plastic and I have no way of knowing how strong the spring is.
[img]cid:part1.70F5F304.19CD890F(at)gmail.com[/img]
If anyone has a suggestion as to the specific switch I should use I would be most grateful for the advice!!!
..
Cheers!!!
Bill Hunter
|
If you don't write restrictive requirements, you often get more useful ideas. 
https://www.google.com/search?q=magnetic+prox+switch&oq=magnetic+prox+switch&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.6126j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
 Virus-free. www.avast.com [url=#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2] [/url]
| | - The Matronics AeroElectric-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List |
|
| Description: |
|
| Filesize: |
9.3 KB |
| Viewed: |
3817 Time(s) |
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
ceengland7(at)gmail.com
Guest
|
| Posted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 6:41 pm Post subject: Can Someone PLEASE Provide A Recommendation For A Plunger S |
|
|
On 6/8/2017 9:42 PM, Charlie England wrote:
| Quote: | On 6/8/2017 9:22 PM, William Hunter wrote:
| Quote: | v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} .shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);} <![endif]--> <![endif]--> <![endif]-->
Greetings,
I have built a fiberglass air filter box that has an automatic alternate air door that I want to monitor with a micro switch and I was hoping someone could please give me a recommendation for a micro switch to purchase.
The construction of this air filter box is of ˝ inch Divinycell foam board encapsulated with two layers of fiberglass (see attached photo) and the alternate air door is a simple fiberglass flapper valve that is held shut by the spring action of the fiberglass valve and two magnets.
The design goal is that the flapper valve will shut when the engine is not running and then after the engine is started the spring action and the magnets will hold the flapper valve shut. At times when the air filter becomes clogged (ice or debris) the engine vacuum will pull on the flapper door with enough suction force that the magnets will separate and the door will open into the air box and allow unfiltered air from the engine compartment to flow to the engine. The magnets are encapsulated in the fiberglass of the door and the air box walls so there is not fear of them falling into the engine.
So…getting back to the switch…it needs to have the following attributes:
-Plunger type switch that has a very light spring that forces the switch plunger to the extended position.
-When the switch is pushed in the contacts need to be open and when the switch is allowed to extend the contacts need to close so my indicator light will illuminate.
-The threaded shaft of the switch should be about ˝ inch long.
-Threaded shaft is made of plastic
My goal is to install the switch from the outside so that the switch body is on the outside of the box and only the plunger assembly is inserted into the sidewall mounting hole just long enough so that the switch will be pressed in when the flapper valve is closed. If the threaded shaft is plastic then I can use epoxy to glue the switch threads into the sidewall of the air box and therefore it would not need a nut on the inside wall of the air box so there would be no worry about the nut falling into the engine intake.
Here is a picture of a switch that could work…I would not use the nuts and I would also prefer that the body and the plunger were made of plastic and I have no way of knowing how strong the spring is.
[img]cid:part1.36FE093B.58988A1E(at)gmail.com[/img]
If anyone has a suggestion as to the specific switch I should use I would be most grateful for the advice!!!
..
Cheers!!!
Bill Hunter
|
If you don't write restrictive requirements, you often get more useful ideas.
https://www.google.com/search?q=magnetic+prox+switch&oq=magnetic+prox+switch&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.6126j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
|
or more specifically,
https://www.google.com/search?q=magnetic+prox+switch&oq=magnetic+prox+switch&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.6126j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#q=surface+mount+window+contact
Virus-free. www.avast.com [url=#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2] [/url]
| | - The Matronics AeroElectric-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List |
|
| Description: |
|
| Filesize: |
9.3 KB |
| Viewed: |
3817 Time(s) |
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Bob McC
Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 258
Location: Toronto, ON
|
| Posted: Fri Jun 09, 2017 11:47 am Post subject: Can Someone PLEASE Provide A Recommendation For A Plunger S |
|
|
William;
Why the insistence on a "plunger" style where you need to be concerned with spring pressure and possibly weather resistance?? Why not take the earlier replies suggestion of an inductive "PROXIMITY" switch which detects the closeness of a piece or ferrous metal and is generally sealed against all external environmental influence? (NOT switched by a magnet as someone suggested. Switches responding to magnets are usually "reed" switches) You then don't need to worry about how strong the "spring" is as there isn't one. When the little piece of steel you embed in your fiberglass door is adjacent to the switch the switch is either "open" or "closed" depending upon whether you select a NO or NC switch. "Normal" by the way refers to the switches condition sitting in space without activation, the switch "switches" to the opposite state when the ferrous target is close. Would make choice and installation a whole lot simpler. Just bring your door adjacent to the switch and, Bingo, it switches. Alternatively move your door away from the switch and it switches the other way. No contact, moving parts, or forces involved.
Bob McC [quote] --> --> --> --------
| | - The Matronics AeroElectric-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List |
|
_________________
Bob McC
Falco #908
(just starting) |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
billhuntersemail(at)gmail
Guest
|
| Posted: Fri Jun 09, 2017 4:51 pm Post subject: Can Someone PLEASE Provide A Recommendation For A Plunger S |
|
|
| Quote: | Why the insistence on a "plunger" style where you need to be concerned with spring pressure and possibly weather resistance?? Why not take the earlier replies suggestion of an inductive "PROXIMITY" switch which detects the closeness of a piece or ferrous metal and is generally sealed against all external environmental influence? (NOT switched by a magnet as someone suggested. Switches responding to magnets are usually "reed" switches)
|
I am not insisting on a plunger switch…the proximity switch sounds like a superior idea…less moving parts to fall into the engine if the switch falls apart.
If I install a proximity switch directly next to a magnet (meaning side by side) will it work? In other words…my flapper door has a magnet and so does the air box structure and the two magnets pulling toward each other is mostly what keeps the flapper door closed (these are really strong magnets). The only practical place to install a switch is side by side with the magnet that is installed in the air box structure so therefore the proximity switch will only be 1 inch away from the magnet installed in the structure of the air box…yes the magnet that is connected to the flapper door will move away with the flapper door and so will the ferrous metal “target” that is installed next to the magnet in the flapper door however the proximity switch is still just one inch away from the magnet in the structure.
Here is a switch that might work:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SENSOR-PLASTIC-BARREL-M8-NO-Proximity-Sensors-SN36555-/381449156652?hash=item58d024382c:g:yKwAAOSwl9BWLjvd&_trksid=p2349526.m3874.l7936
It says “NO” however would I not need a “NC” switch so that when the target is close to the proximity sensor the contacts are open and then when the target moves away the from the sensor (the Normal state of the sensor) the contacts will close?
The window sensors are a great idea however I do not have enough room.
Again…I GREATLY APPRECIATE YOUR HELP!!!
..
Cheers!!!
Bill Hunter
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert McCallum
Sent: Friday, June 9, 2017 12:46 PM
To: aeroelectric-list <aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RE: Can Someone PLEASE Provide A Recommendation For A Plunger Switch?!?!?
William;
Why the insistence on a "plunger" style where you need to be concerned with spring pressure and possibly weather resistance?? Why not take the earlier replies suggestion of an inductive "PROXIMITY" switch which detects the closeness of a piece or ferrous metal and is generally sealed against all external environmental influence? (NOT switched by a magnet as someone suggested. Switches responding to magnets are usually "reed" switches) You then don't need to worry about how strong the "spring" is as there isn't one. When the little piece of steel you embed in your fiberglass door is adjacent to the switch the switch is either "open" or "closed" depending upon whether you select a NO or NC switch. "Normal" by the way refers to the switches condition sitting in space without activation, the switch "switches" to the opposite state when the ferrous target is close. Would make choice and installation a whole lot simpler. Just bring your door adjacent to the switch and, Bingo, it switches. Alternatively move your door away from the switch and it switches the other way. No contact, moving parts, or forces involved.
Bob McC[quote]
--------
| | - The Matronics AeroElectric-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List |
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You can download files in this forum
|
Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group
|
Get Email Distribution Too!
FAQ
Search
Memberlist
Usergroups
Register
Profile
Log in to check your private messages
Log in
