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Corrosion Treating the Inside of the Cabanes and Diagonals

 
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jarheadpilot82



Joined: 21 Mar 2011
Posts: 699
Location: Athens, GA

PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2018 6:42 am    Post subject: Corrosion Treating the Inside of the Cabanes and Diagonals Reply with quote

I have built my cabanes and diagonals, and I chose to use 4130 Chromoly streamlined tubing as opposed to aluminum or wood. I want to corrosion treat the inside of the cabanes and am looking for suggestions. Steve D, I know you mentioned using CorrosionX on your Bonanza. Which version? How would you apply to the inside of the tubes?

Thanks in advance for the suggestions.


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Terry Hand
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2018 7:30 am    Post subject: Corrosion Treating the Inside of the Cabanes and Diagonals Reply with quote

On my struts here is what I did on my steel cut down piper cub struts: 

I stripped and derusted the outside. (I found wrapping them in aluminum foil while coated with stripper worked best. followed by steel wool. 
Then rustoleum self etching primer and White Rustoleum auto paint (rattlecan) 
  
Then I  Then put a tiny light inside one end and took a look. Some rust but nothing bad. This plane was kept indoors. 
  
Then i plugged one end (with the threaded attachement)   
Bought Boiled Linseed oil (($19 per gallon, I would have preferred raw as it does not harden, but boiled is good also.) 
Heated the linseed oil up (in a big pot of water on a outdoor propane burner) to about 150F 
Used a funnel and hose to pour it inside each strut. (I put in way more than needed, but it is cheap) 
Plugged the holes with my gloved fingers and Rolled the struts all over the axis for about 5 minutes each. You could hear it slosh. 
Poured most out, but left some in and leaned them in the corner waiting to go to the airport. 
  
I will "reslosh" before I put them on. 
  
I put the extra back in the gallon can, so now I have 7/8ths of a gallon left. Too bad it cannot be used with Latex paint. 

I decided not to do the AD required for a Piper cub. Using a Maule Fabric tester on it for 2 reasons, 1. It beats up a $300 dollar Maule fabric tester and 2. It beats up your strut. THis test is where you put graph paper on the bottom end of the strut and punch the strut in each square, thin wall dents.  My IA buddy really doesn'tlike this test. I bought a ultrasonic metal thinckness tester and used that. My IA later traded me out of it. 
  
Why linseed oil and not the newer oils? I looked at CorrosionX, LPS, ACF50 and several other products. None seemed to do much more than what the Linseed oil would do. It flows in well and (especially heated) fills all the little crevaces and seals holes. Then it hardens, first as it cools and then more as it ages, to a waxy oxygen barrier. (Raw stays more waxy, Boiled eventually gets  hard.)  So no more rust production without O2. I can retreat about 8 times, Cheap and predictable results.   


That was several years ago. I still have Linseed oil slowly seeping out. BTW If you get linseed oil on your old suburban upholstery It will not come out for love or money!


On most items, If I think I see corrosion somewhere I tend to spray with Corrosion X aviation (Stops corrosion dead), and sometimes follow with LPS 3 (Waxy and water resistant.)


Blue Skies, Steve D 
  
On Wed, Jan 17, 2018 at 8:42 AM, jarheadpilot82 <jarheadpilot82(at)hotmail.com (jarheadpilot82(at)hotmail.com)> wrote:
Quote:
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "jarheadpilot82" <jarheadpilot82(at)hotmail.com (jarheadpilot82(at)hotmail.com)>

I have built my cabanes and diagonals, and I choses to use 4130 Chromoly streamlined tubing as opposed to aluminum or wood. I want to corrosion treat the inside of the cabanes and am looking for suggestions. Steve D, I know you mentioned using CorrosionX on your Bonanza. Which version? How would you apply to the inside of the tubes?

Thanks in advance for the suggestions.

--------
Semper Fi,

Terry Hand
Athens, GA




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Steve D


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glen



Joined: 17 Sep 2013
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2018 7:48 am    Post subject: Corrosion Treating the Inside of the Cabanes and Diagonals Reply with quote

In the old days as you probably know boiled linseed oil was put inside tubes. A hole was put in bottom for drainage and plugged with a screw. Worked pretty well actually. I come across Stearman and cub structures quite often60+years old no rust. Messy icky stuff cause it drips for months or maybe years. It always amazes me how well old technology works. I don’t think anyone back then was planning on any of the old airplanes lasting 70 years

Quote:
On Jan 17, 2018, at 6:42 AM, jarheadpilot82 <jarheadpilot82(at)hotmail.com> wrote:



I have built my cabanes and diagonals, and I choses to use 4130 Chromoly streamlined tubing as opposed to aluminum or wood. I want to corrosion treat the inside of the cabanes and am looking for suggestions. Steve D, I know you mentioned using CorrosionX on your Bonanza. Which version? How would you apply to the inside of the tubes?

Thanks in advance for the suggestions.

--------
Semper Fi,

Terry Hand
Athens, GA




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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477366#477366




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http://forums.matronics.com//files/cabanes_1_113.jpg








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scudrun



Joined: 29 Apr 2012
Posts: 29

PostPosted: Thu Jan 18, 2018 11:12 am    Post subject: Corrosion Treating the Inside of the Cabanes and Diagonals Reply with quote

Back in the WW1 era they used to put raw linseed oil inside welded steel
frames to 'passivate' the welds. Turns out raw (not boiled) linseed oil
is an oxygen getter. Maybe they knew something back then. When one of
those old birds turns up in a barn moth eaten, the frames are often in
surprisingly good shape. When my '92 honda civic rusted at the back of
the rear wheel wells (as they all did due to a drainage issue for
condensation inside) I welded new metal in there and sprayed raw linseed
oil over the area. It never rusted again despite driving in Canadian
winters till the car was 14yrs old and had 300,000km on it when I tossed it.


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at7000ft



Joined: 14 Apr 2006
Posts: 1107
Location: Colorado

PostPosted: Fri Jan 19, 2018 11:20 am    Post subject: Re: Corrosion Treating the Inside of the Cabanes and Diagona Reply with quote

Beautiful work on your welded fuselage Terry. Concerning the flying struts, one thing that makes me feel better when flying mine and pulling a few Gs is the old Pietenpol fable (which may be true) that Bernard said that he designed the Piet so the flying wires between the struts will fully support the wings in flight even if all four struts fall off. And its not that hard to believe since at a 1100 lb gross weight each of the four cables would only have to support 275 lbs. Redundancy you don't get with a Cub or most other high wing with flying strut designs.

Rick Holland


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jarheadpilot82



Joined: 21 Mar 2011
Posts: 699
Location: Athens, GA

PostPosted: Fri Jan 19, 2018 10:08 pm    Post subject: Re: Corrosion Treating the Inside of the Cabanes and Diagona Reply with quote

Rick,

I would love to take credit for the beautiful welds, and they are beautiful. However, my welding skills are extremely puny, so I found a great welder in town. David owns a custom bicycle business. I figured that, since he uses 4130 chromoly on many
of his bike frames and he tig welds, he would be a good source, and he has actually been a great one.

If any of you out there are looking for a welder, you might try going the same route I did. See if there is a custom bicycle shop or similar in your town. It worked for me.


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