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MOD 62 3/8 pin tailplane - REAMER tapered or straight (cyli

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christoph.both(at)acadiau
Guest

Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2018 10:32 am Post subject: MOD 62 3/8 pin tailplane - REAMER tapered or straight (cyli

Hello,

MOD 62 (change 1/4 inch pin to 3/8 pin, tail plane torque tube) says: 

Use a 23/64 sharp drill to open up the 1/4-inch hole. No problem.



However, there is nowhere an indication if the 3/8 reamer specified is actually of the tapered or straight variety.

23/64 comes just in sufficiently narrower that I assume a tapered reamer needs to be used to widen the drill hole to 3/8 for small interference fit. I assume the cylindrical won't even fit into the smaller 23/64 hole.



For those familiar or been there, what type did you use?



I need to order the correct type of 3/8 reamer, and they are over $100 a piece.

Christoph Both

#223 Wolfville Nova Scotia

Canada

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Patrick Tunney

Joined: 24 Sep 2010
Posts: 33

Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2018 12:07 pm Post subject: Re: MOD 62 3/8 pin tailplane - REAMER tapered or straight (

Christoph



Not sure how you were planning to tackle this job but i would use a pedestal drill or milling machine with the torque tube fully assembled and clamped hard to the machine tool table. 



Hand drilling and reaming will probably lead to disaster unless your are very lucky!



I would approach it this way - 



Match mark all components so you don,t get them round the wrong way.



Assemble the torque tube on the original 1/4" pins and loctite the components on to the torque tube. Make sure you have the stabilator drive pins aligned port and starboard, this won,t be an issue if you have zero wear in the assembly on the standard quarter pins, if you have then align as best possible before the loctite sets.



Once set knock out the 1/4" pins and set up on the machine tool aligning the spindle on your first hole to drill. If you cut the head of one of the original 1/4" pins you can use it as a guide by mounting in the chuck and centering through the first hole to drill on both sides of the torque tube. 



Clamp your tube firmly and then using cutting compound start drilling in small steps untill your 1/64" below 3/8".  Finally use the reamer with cutting compound to achieve the 3/8" finished size.



Repeat for the other three holes and then warm the components to soften the loctite enabling them to be removed.



If i was local i would offer to do it for you unfortunately i guess i am not.



Also if this is just to remove slop in the pins consider a smaller stem such as 5/16". Also if your nervous about the work take it to a local machine shop as this type of work will be straight forward to them, they could also manufacture some 5/16" pins if you wished to go for that option.



Good Luck



Pat

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christoph.both(at)acadiau
Guest

Posted: Tue May 01, 2018 5:34 pm Post subject: MOD 62 3/8 pin tailplane - REAMER tapered or straight (cyli

Hello Partick,

I tried to respond directly by email, but it bounced back several times.

Thank you very much for your suggestions, I have now scheduled a date with a trustworthy machine shop to come up with a good solution. They even mentioned they could produce interference fit smaller pins than the 3/8 I got from Europa.

Your valuable comments will go with the tube into the shop.

Thank you very much,

Christoph

On 2018-04-27, 17:07, "owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Patrick Tunney" <owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of ptunney(at)intergen.com> wrote:



    

    

    Christoph

    

    Not sure how you were planning to tackle this job but i would use a pedestal drill or milling machine with the torque tube fully assembled and clamped hard to the machine tool table. 

    

    Hand drilling and reaming will probably lead to disaster unless your are very lucky!

    

    I would approach it this way - 

    

    Match mark all components so you don,t get them round the wrong way.

    

    Assemble the torque tube on the original 1/4" pins and loctite the components on to the torque tube. Make sure you have the stabilator drive pins aligned port and starboard, this won,t be an issue if you have zero wear in the assembly on the standard quarter pins, if you have then align as best possible before the loctite sets.

    

    Once set knock out the 1/4" pins and set up on the machine tool aligning the spindle on your first hole to drill. If you cut the head of one of the original 1/4" pins you can use it as a guide by mounting in the chuck and centering through the first hole to drill on both sides of the torque tube. 

    

    Clamp your tube firmly and then using cutting compound start drilling in small steps untill your 1/64" below 3/8".  Finally use the reamer with cutting compound to achieve the 3/8" finished size.

    

    Repeat for the other three holes and then warm the components to soften the loctite enabling them to be removed.

    

    If i was local i would offer to do it for you unfortunately i guess i am not.

    

    Also if this is just to remove slop in the pins consider a smaller stem such as 5/16". Also if your nervous about the work take it to a local machine shop as this type of work will be straight forward to them, they could also manufacture some 5/16" pins if you wished to go for that option.

    

    Good Luck

    

    Pat

    

    

    

    

    Read this topic online here:

    

    http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479611#479611

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wdaniell.longport(at)gmai
Guest

Posted: Wed May 02, 2018 11:36 am Post subject: MOD 62 3/8 pin tailplane - REAMER tapered or straight (cyli

An alternative.

I used 1/4 in bolts - short ones - with nuts on top of 1/2 moon shaped spacers. If that makes sense.   So you have a total of 4 bolts and 4 spacers.   This was a bit of a pain to fit.  However it does lock the whole thing together.

Bud suggested a much better variation on this theme which is to use an aluminium tube with a slit cut in it with nut plates instead of the half moon spacers and nuts.  Would have been much easier.

Will



William Daniell



LONGPORT

+57 310 295 0744



 

On Tue, May 1, 2018 at 8:32 PM, Christoph Both <christoph.both(at)acadiau.ca (christoph.both(at)acadiau.ca)> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  --> Europa-List message posted by: Christoph Both <christoph.both(at)acadiau.ca (christoph.both(at)acadiau.ca)>

 

 Hello Partick,

 I tried to respond directly by email, but it bounced back several times.

 Thank you very much for your suggestions, I have now scheduled a date with a trustworthy machine shop to come up with a good solution. They even mentioned they could produce interference fit smaller pins than the 3/8 I got from Europa.

 Your valuable comments will go with the tube into the shop.

 Thank you very much,

 Christoph

 

 

 On 2018-04-27, 17:07, "owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com) on behalf of Patrick Tunney" <owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com) on behalf of ptunney(at)intergen.com (ptunney(at)intergen.com)> wrote:

 

     --> Europa-List message posted by: "Patrick Tunney" <ptunney(at)intergen.com (ptunney(at)intergen.com)>

 

     Christoph

 

     Not sure how you were planning to tackle this job but i would use a pedestal drill or milling machine with the torque tube fully assembled and clamped hard to the machine tool table. 

 

     Hand drilling and reaming will probably lead to disaster unless your are very lucky!

 

     I would approach it this way - 

 

     Match mark all components so you don,t get them round the wrong way.

 

     Assemble the torque tube on the original 1/4" pins and loctite the components on to the torque tube. Make sure you have the stabilator drive pins aligned port and starboard, this won,t be an issue if you have zero wear in the assembly on the standard quarter pins, if you have then align as best possible before the loctite sets.

 

     Once set knock out the 1/4" pins and set up on the machine tool aligning the spindle on your first hole to drill. If you cut the head of one of the original 1/4" pins you can use it as a guide by mounting in the chuck and centering through the first hole to drill on both sides of the torque tube. 

 

     Clamp your tube firmly and then using cutting compound start drilling in small steps untill your 1/64" below 3/8".  Finally use the reamer with cutting compound to achieve the 3/8" finished size.

 

     Repeat for the other three holes and then warm the components to soften the loctite enabling them to be removed.

 

     If i was local i would offer to do it for you unfortunately i guess i am not.

 

     Also if this is just to remove slop in the pins consider a smaller stem such as 5/16". Also if your nervous about the work take it to a local machine shop as this type of work will be straight forward to them, they could also manufacture some 5/16" pins if you wished to go for that option.

 

     Good Luck

 

     Pat

 

 

 

 

     Read this topic online here:

 

     http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479611#479611

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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