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Compressor troubleshooting before replacing

 
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1906



Joined: 30 Nov 2018
Posts: 58

PostPosted: Sun Nov 28, 2021 5:11 pm    Post subject: Compressor troubleshooting before replacing Reply with quote

The compressor stopped building up pressure last two flights.
Engine has 600+ hours - fairly certain it is the original compressor.
There are no leaks in the system while the airplane is parked.

There is a manual lever bypass (Cessna throttle cable style) which will audibly discharge when in bypass mode but will not charge in the "charge" mode as it used to.

Anything easy I can check before replacing it?


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Clouddog



Joined: 02 Jun 2016
Posts: 116
Location: Lebanon, TN

PostPosted: Sun Nov 28, 2021 5:25 pm    Post subject: Compressor troubleshooting before replacing Reply with quote

Try cleaning the valve housed in the banjo fitting on the compressor. 

On Sun, Nov 28, 2021, 19:15 1906 <zmadwolf(at)gmail.com (zmadwolf(at)gmail.com)> wrote:

Quote:
--> Yak-List message posted by: "1906" <zmadwolf(at)gmail.com (zmadwolf(at)gmail.com)>

The compressor stopped building up pressure last two flights.
Engine has 600+ hours - fairly certain it is the original compressor.
There are no leaks in the system while the airplane is parked.

There is a manual lever bypass (Cessna throttle cable style) which will audibly discharge when in bypass mode but will not charge in the "charge" mode as it used to.

Anything easy I can check before replacing it?




Read this topic online here:

http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=504970#504970






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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2021 4:08 am    Post subject: Compressor troubleshooting before replacing Reply with quote

It could very well be the “discharge” position on snot bottle arm that is no longer fully closing when you place the cable knob in the “charge” position. Happens frequently BTW. To test this, tape a finger from a latex or nitrile glove over the discharge tube. Make certain the cable is pushed or pulled to the fully closed or “charge” position and start the engine.
If the snot bottle is fully closing, nothing will happen to the glove. If the glove blows up and pops quickly, the compressor is working and the cable is not fully closing the snot bottle discharge arm, which prevents the air system from recharging.
Assuming the glove finger does not pop, open the snot bottle drain with the cable ie: discharge position. With the engine still running, If the glove finger does not blow up and pop, the problem could be either the compressor output check valve; the compressor itself or the shear coupling between the accessory drive and the compressor being sheared, assuming the engine is an M14. If it’s Housai engine, it has no shear coupling.
Any questions, please ask.
Dennis

Sent from my iPhone

Quote:
On Nov 28, 2021, at 8:27 PM, Greg Wrobel <clouddog22(at)gmail.com> wrote:

Try cleaning the valve housed in the banjo fitting on the compressor.

On Sun, Nov 28, 2021, 19:15 1906 <zmadwolf(at)gmail.com (zmadwolf(at)gmail.com)> wrote:

Quote:
--> Yak-List message posted by: "1906" <zmadwolf(at)gmail.com (zmadwolf(at)gmail.com)>

The compressor stopped building up pressure last two flights.
Engine has 600+ hours - fairly certain it is the original compressor.
There are no leaks in the system while the airplane is parked.

There is a manual lever bypass (Cessna throttle cable style) which will audibly discharge when in bypass mode but will not charge in the "charge" mode as it used to.

Anything easy I can check before replacing it?




Read this topic online here:

http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=504970#504970






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-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
="noreferrer noreferrer" target="_blank">https://matronics.com/contribution
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2021 4:10 am    Post subject: Compressor troubleshooting before replacing Reply with quote

If you do clean the valve as Greg suggested, be sure to use all new crush washers when reinstalling. Dennis

Sent from my iPhone

Quote:
On Nov 29, 2021, at 7:08 AM, Anthony Savarese <dsavarese0812(at)bellsouth.net> wrote:

It could very well be the “discharge” position on snot bottle arm that is no longer fully closing when you place the cable knob in the “charge” position. Happens frequently BTW. To test this, tape a finger from a latex or nitrile glove over the discharge tube. Make certain the cable is pushed or pulled to the fully closed or “charge” position and start the engine.
If the snot bottle is fully closing, nothing will happen to the glove. If the glove blows up and pops quickly, the compressor is working and the cable is not fully closing the snot bottle discharge arm, which prevents the air system from recharging.
Assuming the glove finger does not pop, open the snot bottle drain with the cable ie: discharge position. With the engine still running, If the glove finger does not blow up and pop, the problem could be either the compressor output check valve; the compressor itself or the shear coupling between the accessory drive and the compressor being sheared, assuming the engine is an M14. If it’s Housai engine, it has no shear coupling.
Any questions, please ask.
Dennis

Sent from my iPhone

Quote:
On Nov 28, 2021, at 8:27 PM, Greg Wrobel <clouddog22(at)gmail.com> wrote:

Try cleaning the valve housed in the banjo fitting on the compressor.

On Sun, Nov 28, 2021, 19:15 1906 <zmadwolf(at)gmail.com (zmadwolf(at)gmail.com)> wrote:

Quote:
--> Yak-List message posted by: "1906" <zmadwolf(at)gmail.com (zmadwolf(at)gmail.com)>

The compressor stopped building up pressure last two flights.
Engine has 600+ hours - fairly certain it is the original compressor.
There are no leaks in the system while the airplane is parked.

There is a manual lever bypass (Cessna throttle cable style) which will audibly discharge when in bypass mode but will not charge in the "charge" mode as it used to.

Anything easy I can check before replacing it?




Read this topic online here:

http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=504970#504970






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eferrer noreferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
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-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
="noreferrer noreferrer" target="_blank">https://matronics.com/contribution
===========




=================================== =================================== =================================== =================================== ===================================




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Stratyaks



Joined: 02 Nov 2015
Posts: 9
Location: Stratford upon Avon

PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2021 5:15 am    Post subject: Re: Compressor troubleshooting before replacing Reply with quote

Our Yak-52 has a fine gauze strainer off the four-way union where the compressor output goes into the aircraft. It is opposite the pop-off valve in the main line to the air bottles. I took ours apart for the first time (maybe ever!) and it was full of nastiness.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2021 5:37 am    Post subject: Compressor troubleshooting before replacing Reply with quote

Dennis - Question on this topic:


I suspect my bottle is also not fully closing. I am noticing periods of flight where the air does not recharge, then after cycling the snot valve handle, air builds up again - albeit it slowly. Yet when I land and shut down, there is always a healthy audible release when I open the valve. Is it possible for the bottle to leak slightly, but still give a good "hiss' at shutdown? Or is it an "all-or-nothing" kind of situation?


Also, my air gauge rarely reaches pop-off max pressure. Never on short flights and not as often as it used to on 30+ minute flights.


And...it may be the "everything is going wrong" state of mind paranoia, but starting seems to deplete more air supply than before. Even when I crank up with max air, I end up taxi'ing out with a half tank after only a single starting attempt. When a group of us taxied out at OSH, I was borderline-abort due to alarmingly-low air with a long way to taxi / turn / brake / stop / runup.


And as long as I have your attention, I have recently developed an audible air loss when I use the brake-lock at start-up. And by "audible," I don't mean a hiss, I mean a leak that actually has tone...like a lengthy "sigh." (Seems to emanate from behind me in the rear cockpit. Is that the equalizing valve in the floor of the rear cockpit? I did a rebuild on it about 8-9 years ago.)


Thank Youfor ALL, Sir!





Rico Jaeger
715.529.7426

//
1992 Yakovlev Yak 52^/---//-X
N21YK //
Hangar #21 / AUW
//
1941 Ryan PT-22 "Recruit" ^/---//-X
N (TBD) //
Hangar #35 / AUW








From: owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com> on behalf of Anthony Savarese <dsavarese0812(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2021 6:09 AM
To: yak-list(at)matronics.com <yak-list(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Compressor troubleshooting before replacing

If you do clean the valve as Greg suggested, be sure to use all new crush washers when reinstalling. Dennis

Sent from my iPhone

Quote:
On Nov 29, 2021, at 7:08 AM, Anthony Savarese <dsavarese0812(at)bellsouth.net> wrote:

It could very well be the “discharge” position on snot bottle arm that is no longer fully closing when you place the cable knob in the “charge” position. Happens frequently BTW. To test this, tape a finger from a latex or nitrile glove over the discharge tube. Make certain the cable is pushed or pulled to the fully closed or “charge” position and start the engine.
If the snot bottle is fully closing, nothing will happen to the glove. If the glove blows up and pops quickly, the compressor is working and the cable is not fully closing the snot bottle discharge arm, which prevents the air system from recharging.
Assuming the glove finger does not pop, open the snot bottle drain with the cable ie: discharge position. With the engine still running, If the glove finger does not blow up and pop, the problem could be either the compressor output check valve; the compressor itself or the shear coupling between the accessory drive and the compressor being sheared, assuming the engine is an M14. If it’s Housai engine, it has no shear coupling.
Any questions, please ask.
Dennis

Sent from my iPhone

Quote:
On Nov 28, 2021, at 8:27 PM, Greg Wrobel <clouddog22(at)gmail.com> wrote:

 Try cleaning the valve housed in the banjo fitting on the compressor.

On Sun, Nov 28, 2021, 19:15 1906 <zmadwolf(at)gmail.com (zmadwolf(at)gmail.com)> wrote:

Quote:
--> Yak-List message posted by: "1906" <zmadwolf(at)gmail.com (zmadwolf(at)gmail.com)>

The compressor stopped building up pressure last two flights.
Engine has 600+ hours - fairly certain it is the original compressor.
There are no leaks in the system while the airplane is parked.

There is a manual lever bypass (Cessna throttle cable style) which will audibly discharge when in bypass mode but will not charge in the "charge" mode as it used to.

Anything easy I can check before replacing it?




Read this topic online here:

http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=504970#504970






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List" rel="noreferrer noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
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eferrer noreferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
===========
WIKI -
errer noreferrer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
===========
b Site -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
="noreferrer noreferrer" target="_blank">https://matronics.com/contribution
===========




=================================== =================================== =================================== =================================== ===================================




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jlpartington(at)reagan.co
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2021 6:29 am    Post subject: Compressor troubleshooting before replacing Reply with quote

There are many one way valves in the CJ system. Doug had rebuild kits and that was time well spent for me.

Also, while flying I turn off the main air valve and see how fast the pump runs up to pop off pressure. If it is not fast, there is a leak

Pooh
--


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2021 6:39 am    Post subject: Compressor troubleshooting before replacing Reply with quote

Thats an excellent tip!


(As long as we remember to open it again in the pattern!)


Thank you!




Rico Jaeger
915 S 11th Ave
Wausau, WI 54401
715. 529.7426
//
Yak 52 / N21YK. ^/---//-X
Hangar 21 / AUW. //
//
Ryan PT-22. ^/---//-X
Hangar 35 / AUW. //

EAA #345804
Warbird #13705
From: owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com> on behalf of jlpartington(at)reagan.com <jlpartington(at)reagan.com>
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2021 8:29 AM
To: yak-list(at)matronics.com <yak-list(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Compressor troubleshooting before replacing


There are many one way valves in the CJ system. Doug had rebuild kits and that was time well spent for me.

Also, while flying I turn off the main air valve and see how fast the pump runs up to pop off pressure. If it is not fast, there is a leak

Pooh
--


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rickkelleyfly(at)gmail.co
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2021 7:10 am    Post subject: Compressor troubleshooting before replacing Reply with quote

If it did any kind of backfiring while starting I would bet you shared the Cupler

Sent from my iPhone

Quote:
On Nov 29, 2021, at 6:14 AM, Anthony Savarese <dsavarese0812(at)bellsouth.net> wrote:

It could very well be the “discharge” position on snot bottle arm that is no longer fully closing when you place the cable knob in the “charge” position. Happens frequently BTW. To test this, tape a finger from a latex or nitrile glove over the discharge tube. Make certain the cable is pushed or pulled to the fully closed or “charge” position and start the engine.
If the snot bottle is fully closing, nothing will happen to the glove. If the glove blows up and pops quickly, the compressor is working and the cable is not fully closing the snot bottle discharge arm, which prevents the air system from recharging.
Assuming the glove finger does not pop, open the snot bottle drain with the cable ie: discharge position. With the engine still running, If the glove finger does not blow up and pop, the problem could be either the compressor output check valve; the compressor itself or the shear coupling between the accessory drive and the compressor being sheared, assuming the engine is an M14. If it’s Housai engine, it has no shear coupling.
Any questions, please ask.
Dennis

Sent from my iPhone

Quote:
On Nov 28, 2021, at 8:27 PM, Greg Wrobel <clouddog22(at)gmail.com> wrote:

Try cleaning the valve housed in the banjo fitting on the compressor.

On Sun, Nov 28, 2021, 19:15 1906 <zmadwolf(at)gmail.com (zmadwolf(at)gmail.com)> wrote:

Quote:
--> Yak-List message posted by: "1906" <zmadwolf(at)gmail.com (zmadwolf(at)gmail.com)>

The compressor stopped building up pressure last two flights.
Engine has 600+ hours - fairly certain it is the original compressor.
There are no leaks in the system while the airplane is parked.

There is a manual lever bypass (Cessna throttle cable style) which will audibly discharge when in bypass mode but will not charge in the "charge" mode as it used to.

Anything easy I can check before replacing it?




Read this topic online here:

http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=504970#504970






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List" rel="noreferrer noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
===========
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eferrer noreferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
===========
WIKI -
errer noreferrer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
===========
b Site -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
="noreferrer noreferrer" target="_blank">https://matronics.com/contribution
===========




=================================== =================================== =================================== =================================== ===================================




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jlpartington(at)reagan.co
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2021 7:14 am    Post subject: Compressor troubleshooting before replacing Reply with quote

True, but self correcting IF your are paying attention
--


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dsavarese0812(at)bellsout
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2021 5:37 pm    Post subject: Compressor troubleshooting before replacing Reply with quote

The "filter" you are speaking of is totally junk.  It's useless. Might
as well not even have one like that on the airplane.

A. Dennis Savarese
334-546-8182
www.yak-52.comTha

On 11/29/2021 8:15 AM, Stratyaks wrote:
Quote:


Our Yak-52 has a fine gauze strainer off the four-way union where the compressor output goes into the aircraft. It is opposite the pop-off valve in the main line to the air bottles. I took ours apart for the first time (maybe ever!) and it was full of nastiness.


Read this topic online here:

http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=504976#504976


Attachments:

http://forums.matronics.com//files/air_system_gauze_151.jpg


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dsavarese0812(at)bellsout
Guest





PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2021 5:38 pm    Post subject: Compressor troubleshooting before replacing Reply with quote

Rico,
When was the last time you removed the snot bottle from the firewall and
cleaned and flushed it completely with avgas out of all three orifices? 
You'll be amazed how much junk you'll get out of it.  See if that
doesn't help.

A. Dennis Savarese
334-546-8182
www.yak-52.com

On 11/29/2021 8:36 AM, Rico Jaeger wrote:
Quote:
Dennis - Question on this topic:

I suspect my bottle is also not fully closing. I am noticing periods
of flight where the air does not recharge, then after cycling the snot
valve handle, air builds up again - albeit it slowly. Yet when I land
and shut down, there is always a healthy audible release when I open
the valve. Is it possible for the bottle to leak slightly, but still
give a good "hiss' at shutdown? Or is it an "all-or-nothing" kind of
situation?

Also, my air gauge rarely reaches pop-off max pressure. Never on short
flights and not as often as it used to on 30+ minute flights.

And...it may be the "everything is going wrong" state of mind
paranoia, but starting seems to deplete more air supply than before.
Even when I crank up with max air, I end up taxi'ing out with a half
tank after only a single starting attempt. When a group of us taxied
out at OSH, I was borderline-abort due to alarmingly-low air with a
long way to taxi / turn / brake / stop / runup.

And as long as I have your attention, I have recently developed an
audible air loss when I use the brake-lock at start-up. And by
"audible," I don't mean a hiss, I mean a leak that actually has
tone...like a lengthy "sigh." (Seems to emanate from behind me in the
rear cockpit. Is that the equalizing valve in the floor of the rear
cockpit? I did a rebuild on it about 8-9 years ago.)

Thank You for ALL, Sir!

Rico Jaeger
715.529.7426

 //
1992 Yakovlev Yak 52    ^/---//-X
N21YK                                 //
Hangar #21 / AUW
//
1941 Ryan PT-22 "Recruit"   ^/---//-X
N (TBD)                                      //
Hangar #35 / AUW
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*From:* owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com
<owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com> on behalf of Anthony Savarese
<dsavarese0812(at)bellsouth.net>
*Sent:* Monday, November 29, 2021 6:09 AM
*To:* yak-list(at)matronics.com <yak-list(at)matronics.com>
*Subject:* Re: Compressor troubleshooting before replacing
If you do clean the valve as Greg suggested, be sure to use all new
crush washers when reinstalling.
Dennis

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 29, 2021, at 7:08 AM, Anthony Savarese
> <dsavarese0812(at)bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
> It could very well be the “discharge” position on snot bottle arm
> that is no longer fully closing when you place the cable knob in the
> “charge” position. Happens frequently BTW.
> To test this, tape a finger from a latex or nitrile glove over the
> discharge tube. Make certain the cable is pushed or pulled to the
> fully closed or “charge” position and start the engine.
> If the snot bottle is fully closing,  nothing will happen to the
> glove. If the glove blows up and pops quickly, the compressor is
> working and the cable is not fully closing the snot bottle discharge
> arm, which prevents the air system from recharging.
> Assuming the glove finger does not pop, open the snot bottle drain
> with the cable ie: discharge position. With the engine still running,
> If the glove finger does not blow up and pop, the problem could be
> either the compressor output check valve; the compressor itself or
> the shear coupling between the accessory drive and the compressor
> being sheared, assuming the engine is an M14. If it’s  Housai engine,
> it has no shear coupling.
> Any questions, please ask.
> Dennis
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Nov 28, 2021, at 8:27 PM, Greg Wrobel <clouddog22(at)gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> 
>> Try cleaning the valve housed in the banjo fitting on the compressor.
>>
>> On Sun, Nov 28, 2021, 19:15 1906 <zmadwolf(at)gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> The compressor stopped building up pressure last two flights.
>> Engine has 600+ hours - fairly certain it is the original
>> compressor.
>> There are no leaks in the system while the airplane is parked.
>>
>> There is a manual lever bypass (Cessna throttle cable style)
>> which will audibly discharge when in bypass mode but will not
>> charge in the "charge" mode as it used to.
>>
>> Anything easy I can check before replacing it?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=504970#504970
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ===========
>> List" rel="noreferrer noreferrer"
>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
>> ===========
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer noreferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ===========
>> WIKI -
>> errer noreferrer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> ===========
>> b Site -
>>           -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> ="noreferrer noreferrer"
>> target="_blank">https://matronics.com/contribution
>> ===========
>>
>>
>>
>> ===================================
>> ===================================
>> ===================================
>> =================================== ===================================


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2021 5:39 pm    Post subject: Compressor troubleshooting before replacing Reply with quote

You're right.  But testing with the glove finger will give you a pretty
good idea of whether the compressor is pumping air or not.

A. Dennis Savarese
334-546-8182
www.yak-52.com

On 11/29/2021 10:10 AM, Richard Kelley wrote:
Quote:
If it did any kind of backfiring while starting I would bet you shared
the Cupler

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 29, 2021, at 6:14 AM, Anthony Savarese
> <dsavarese0812(at)bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
>  It could very well be the “discharge” position on snot bottle arm
> that is no longer fully closing when you place the cable knob in the
> “charge” position. Happens frequently BTW.
> To test this, tape a finger from a latex or nitrile glove over the
> discharge tube. Make certain the cable is pushed or pulled to the
> fully closed or “charge” position and start the engine.
> If the snot bottle is fully closing,  nothing will happen to the
> glove. If the glove blows up and pops quickly, the compressor is
> working and the cable is not fully closing the snot bottle discharge
> arm, which prevents the air system from recharging.
> Assuming the glove finger does not pop, open the snot bottle drain
> with the cable ie: discharge position. With the engine still running,
> If the glove finger does not blow up and pop, the problem could be
> either the compressor output check valve; the compressor itself or
> the shear coupling between the accessory drive and the compressor
> being sheared, assuming the engine is an M14. If it’s  Housai engine,
> it has no shear coupling.
> Any questions, please ask.
> Dennis
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Nov 28, 2021, at 8:27 PM, Greg Wrobel <clouddog22(at)gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> 
>> Try cleaning the valve housed in the banjo fitting on the compressor.
>>
>> On Sun, Nov 28, 2021, 19:15 1906 <zmadwolf(at)gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> The compressor stopped building up pressure last two flights.
>> Engine has 600+ hours - fairly certain it is the original
>> compressor.
>> There are no leaks in the system while the airplane is parked.
>>
>> There is a manual lever bypass (Cessna throttle cable style)
>> which will audibly discharge when in bypass mode but will not
>> charge in the "charge" mode as it used to.
>>
>> Anything easy I can check before replacing it?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=504970#504970
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ===========
>> List" rel="noreferrer noreferrer"
>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
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>> ="noreferrer noreferrer"
>> target="_blank">https://matronics.com/contribution
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>> =================================== ===================================


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2021 7:04 pm    Post subject: Compressor troubleshooting before replacing Reply with quote

Will do! Thank you Dr Dennis!




Rico Jaeger
915 S 11th Ave
Wausau, WI 54401
715. 529.7426
//
Yak 52 / N21YK. ^/---//-X
Hangar 21 / AUW. //
//
Ryan PT-22. ^/---//-X
Hangar 35 / AUW. //

EAA #345804
Warbird #13705
From: owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com> on behalf of A. Dennis Savarese <dsavarese0812(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2021 7:38 PM
To: yak-list(at)matronics.com <yak-list(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Compressor troubleshooting before replacing

--> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese0812(at)bellsouth.net>

Rico,
When was the last time you removed the snot bottle from the firewall and
cleaned and flushed it completely with avgas out of all three orifices?
You'll be amazed how much junk you'll get out of it. See if that
doesn't help.

A. Dennis Savarese
334-546-8182
www.yak-52.com

On 11/29/2021 8:36 AM, Rico Jaeger wrote:
> Dennis - Question on this topic:
>
> I suspect my bottle is also not fully closing. I am noticing periods
> of flight where the air does not recharge, then after cycling the snot
> valve handle, air builds up again - albeit it slowly. Yet when I land
> and shut down, there is always a healthy audible release when I open
> the valve. Is it possible for the bottle to leak slightly, but still
> give a good "hiss' at shutdown? Or is it an "all-or-nothing" kind of
> situation?
>
> Also, my air gauge rarely reaches pop-off max pressure. Never on short
> flights and not as often as it used to on 30+ minute flights.
>
> And...it may be the "everything is going wrong" state of mind
> paranoia, but starting seems to deplete more air supply than before.
> Even when I crank up with max air, I end up taxi'ing out with a half
> tank after only a single starting attempt. When a group of us taxied
> out at OSH, I was borderline-abort due to alarmingly-low air with a
> long way to taxi / turn / brake / stop / runup.
>
> And as long as I have your attention, I have recently developed an
> audible air loss when I use the brake-lock at start-up. And by
> "audible," I don't mean a hiss, I mean a leak that actually has
> tone...like a lengthy "sigh." (Seems to emanate from behind me in the
> rear cockpit. Is that the equalizing valve in the floor of the rear
> cockpit? I did a rebuild on it about 8-9 years ago.)
>
> Thank Youfor ALL, Sir!
>
> Rico Jaeger
> 715.529.7426
>
> //
> 1992 Yakovlev Yak 52^/---//-X
> N21YK //
> Hangar #21 / AUW
> //
> 1941 Ryan PT-22 "Recruit" ^/---//-X
> N (TBD) //
> Hangar #35 / AUW
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com
> <owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com> on behalf of Anthony Savarese
> <dsavarese0812(at)bellsouth.net>
> *Sent:* Monday, November 29, 2021 6:09 AM
> *To:* yak-list(at)matronics.com <yak-list(at)matronics.com>
> *Subject:* Re: Yak-List: Compressor troubleshooting before replacing
> If you do clean the valve as Greg suggested, be sure to use all new
> crush washers when reinstalling.
> Dennis
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Nov 29, 2021, at 7:08 AM, Anthony Savarese
>> <dsavarese0812(at)bellsouth.net> wrote:
>>
>> It could very well be the “discharge” position on snot bottle arm
>> that is no longer fully closing when you place the cable knob in the
>> “charge” position. Happens frequently BTW.
>> To test this, tape a finger from a latex or nitrile glove over the
>> discharge tube. Make certain the cable is pushed or pulled to the
>> fully closed or “charge” position and start the engine.
>> If the snot bottle is fully closing, nothing will happen to the
>> glove. If the glove blows up and pops quickly, the compressor is
>> working and the cable is not fully closing the snot bottle discharge
>> arm, which prevents the air system from recharging.
>> Assuming the glove finger does not pop, open the snot bottle drain
>> with the cable ie: discharge position. With the engine still running,
>> If the glove finger does not blow up and pop, the problem could be
>> either the compressor output check valve; the compressor itself or
>> the shear coupling between the accessory drive and the compressor
>> being sheared, assuming the engine is an M14. If it’s Housai engine,
>> it has no shear coupling.
>> Any questions, please ask.
>> Dennis
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>> On Nov 28, 2021, at 8:27 PM, Greg Wrobel <clouddog22(at)gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> 
>>> Try cleaning the valve housed in the banjo fitting on the compressor.
>>>
>>> On Sun, Nov 28, 2021, 19:15 1906 <zmadwolf(at)gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> --> Yak-List message posted by: "1906" <zmadwolf(at)gmail.com>
>>>
>>> The compressor stopped building up pressure last two flights.
>>> Engine has 600+ hours - fairly certain it is the original
>>> compressor.
>>> There are no leaks in the system while the airplane is parked.
>>>
>>> There is a manual lever bypass (Cessna throttle cable style)
>>> which will audibly discharge when in bypass mode but will not
>>> charge in the "charge" mode as it used to.
>>>
>>> Anything easy I can check before replacing it?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=504970#504970
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ===========
>>> List" rel="noreferrer noreferrer"
>>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
>>> ===========
>>> FORUMS -
>>> eferrer noreferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>>> ===========
>>> WIKI -
>>> errer noreferrer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>>> ===========
>>> b Site -
>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>> ="noreferrer noreferrer"
>>> target="_blank">https://matronics.com/contribution
>>> ===========
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ===================================
>>> ===================================
>>> ===================================
>>> =================================== ===================================


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Stratyaks



Joined: 02 Nov 2015
Posts: 9
Location: Stratford upon Avon

PostPosted: Tue Nov 30, 2021 1:52 am    Post subject: Re: Compressor troubleshooting before replacing Reply with quote

dsavarese0812(at)bellsout wrote:
The "filter" you are speaking of is totally junk.  It's useless. Might
as well not even have one like that on the airplane.

A. Dennis Savarese
334-546-8182
www.yak-52.comTha

On 11/29/2021 8:15 AM, Stratyaks wrote:
Quote:


Our Yak-52 has a fine gauze strainer off the four-way union where the compressor output goes into the aircraft. It is opposite the pop-off valve in the main line to the air bottles. I took ours apart for the first time (maybe ever!) and it was full of nastiness.


Read this topic online here:

http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=504976#504976


Attachments:

http://forums.matronics.com//files/air_system_gauze_151.jpg

I agree Dennis but I didn't call it a filter, that is way overstating its effectiveness. Nor did I suggest it was any good at its job, I merely meant it is a potential blockage point - as I found for myself.



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PostPosted: Tue Nov 30, 2021 5:34 am    Post subject: Compressor troubleshooting before replacing Reply with quote

I know you didn't call it a filter. I did, in quotes. Being sarcastic. That so called filter should have been placed at the external air fill port to trap junk that might be injected into the air system before it goes to the emergency and main air system.
In it's present position, just below the pressure relief valve, junk that is forced into the air system when filling from the external air fill port has to pass through 2 check valves, which is ridiculous because many times that junk causes one or both of those two check valves to leak. If the junk were captured before it ever got to the check valves, there would be less check valve failures.
The type of air filter that should be installed below the pressure relief valve is one that has screens, felt filters and desiccant to remove moisture from the system. Just like the one Doug Sapp sold for the CJ's and was adapted to the Yak 52's by placing it in same position as the original "filter". Now THAT was a filter!
Dennis


On Tuesday, November 30, 2021, 04:55:00 AM EST, Stratyaks <john.bailey(at)russianradials.com> wrote:




--> Yak-List message posted by: "Stratyaks" <john.bailey(at)russianradials.com (john.bailey(at)russianradials.com)>

dsavarese0812(at)bellsout wrote:

Quote:
The "filter" you are speaking of is totally junk. It's useless. Might

Quote:
as well not even have one like that on the airplane.

Quote:


Quote:
A. Dennis Savarese

Quote:
334-546-8182

Quote:
www.yak-52.comTha

Quote:


Quote:
On 11/29/2021 8:15 AM, Stratyaks wrote:

Quote:


Quote:
>

Quote:
>

Quote:
> Our Yak-52 has a fine gauze strainer off the four-way union where the compressor output goes into the aircraft. It is opposite the pop-off valve in the main line to the air bottles. I took ours apart for the first time (maybe ever!) and it was full of nastiness.

Quote:
>

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>

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>

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>

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> Read this topic online here:

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>

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> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=504976#504976

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>

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>

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>

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>

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> Attachments:

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>

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> http://forums.matronics.com//files/air_system_gauze_151.jpg

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>

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>

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>

Quote:
> I agree Dennis but I didn't call it a filter, that is way overstating its effectiveness. Nor did I suggest it was any good at its job, I merely meant it is a potential blockage point - as I found for myself.

Quote:
>

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>

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>

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>

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Read this topic online here:

http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=505064#505064



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