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Tri gear leg assembly

 
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paul.the.aviator(at)gmail
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2023 11:11 am    Post subject: Tri gear leg assembly Reply with quote

Hello everyone,  I am in the midst of converting my mono to a tri gear.  The manual talks about installing the legs and then proceeding with the installation of the wheel  assembly.

Is there any reason why I cannot assemble all of the wheel & brake components and then install the leg into the sockets?
Thanks, Paul


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SteveIvell(at)pestproof.c
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 07, 2023 2:05 am    Post subject: Tri gear leg assembly Reply with quote

Hi Paul
You need to set up the correct angle of the legs using the spindle as a guide. If you have the wheel and brake on it you won't be able to get the correct alignment.


The legs only bolt into the socket so once the socket is set up you can remove the leg and build up on the bench if you prefer.


Cheers


Kind Regards


Steve Ivell
07971 128842
steveivell(at)pestproof.co.uk

From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com> on behalf of Paul McAllister <paul.the.aviator(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 6, 2023 8:11:16 PM
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com <europa-list(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Tri gear leg assembly

Hello everyone, I am in the midst of converting my mono to a tri gear. The manual talks about installing the legs and then proceeding with the installation of the wheel assembly.

Is there any reason why I cannot assemble all of the wheel & brake components and then install the leg into the sockets?


Thanks, Paul


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Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

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budyerly@msn.com



Joined: 05 Oct 2019
Posts: 280
Location: Florida USA

PostPosted: Fri Apr 07, 2023 7:35 am    Post subject: Tri gear leg assembly Reply with quote

Paul,
Common sense is no longer common.  Following the manual explicitly without looking ahead can cause you delays and frankly more time.
 
Once the gear legs are installed, glassed in and properly bolted in exact alignment, get rid of the tooling angle iron etc. used for alignment.  I normally install the wheels, tires and brakes.  Have a post handy to hold the tail up if the engine is removed.  Install the brake lines, master cylinder, parking brake and brake handles at this time for a trigear conversion.  I bleed the brakes after the brake install is complete looking for trouble in my installation while everything is open.  Pull unreasonably hard on the brake handles to assure your fittings are properly tightened and check for leaks.  I temporarily install the nose gear (without springs and or bungee, safety cable etc. and clamp it in place.  I then close up the firewall area and seal the belly hole with an access plate.  I often move my pumps to the old wheel well, but it is not necessary.  Most of the time some cleanup of an old firewall forward is needed so I do that as well.  I then remove the nose wheel leg if in a small shop provide the engine is off.  It is quite an ankle biter.  In my shop I install the wheel pants after the wheels are on because I can elevate the aircraft using my cradle to a sitting work height.  It gets me off my knees.  However, installing the wheel pants and speed kit is simply a job that is easily done with the wheels on the ground and frankly, just as fast, but with a bit more lying on the floor time.
 
When done and ready for the engine again, I install the nose gear leg fully, add the springs, safety cable and then set the nose gear steering friction to 16-19 pounds.  I use a bit of Nye grease on the plastic friction disk but it is not necessary.  Do not forget the O ring or the nose gear spindle grease will leak out over time ruining your steering and causing shimmy.  I cut the cowl for the nose gear leg and trial fit it as it should still fit as before even with the engine off. Then reinstall the engine and ducting.  Pay attention to the alignment as new isolation mounts are installed and the spacer washers may have been misplaced.  Realign everything as the engines new install may be off slightly from the cowl.  I find I still have to  modify the cowl nose gear slot as needed for the exhaust tip/nose gear leg installation around a 3 blade prop drill that must be done For those with removable exhaust extensions the exhaust hole is not a huge issue.  But for those with a welded pipe the cowl may be very difficult to get on and off easily.  I actually enlarge my holes for the gear leg and exhaust due to my lack of patience.
 
Then I get to the wings and pull the mono brackets off and clean up the outboard flap brackets and add new covers. 
 
Fill sand, prime, paint.  Do the annual, accomplish the paperwork and logs, document your changes, perform a weight and balance, accomplish the Annex E, taxi checks and steering adjustment and go fly.
 
It’s quality time with your airplane.
 
Just my opinion,
Bud Yerly
 
 
 
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com> On Behalf Of Paul McAllister
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2023 3:11 PM
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Europa-List: Tri gear leg assembly

 
Hello everyone,  I am in the midst of converting my mono to a tri gear.  The manual talks about installing the legs and then proceeding with the installation of the wheel  assembly.
 

Is there any reason why I cannot assemble all of the wheel & brake components and then install the leg into the sockets?

 

Thanks, Paul


- The Matronics Europa-List Email Forum -
 

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
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