Matronics Email Lists :: View topic - Smooth Prime, Sam James Videos on Fiberglass & Painting

Matronics Email Lists
Web Forum Interface to the Matronics Email Lists

Get Email Distribution Too! FAQ Search Memberlist Usergroups Register

Profile Log in to check your private messages Log in

Smooth Prime, Sam James Videos on Fiberglass & Painting

Matronics Email Lists Forum Index -> RV-List

View previous topic :: View next topic

Author Message

kbob(at)cox.net
Guest

Posted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 5:51 am Post subject: Smooth Prime, Sam James Videos on Fiberglass & Painting

Here's a good primer on fiberglass work:



http://rv8a.tripod.com/fiberglass.html



I also recommend the Smooth Prime pinhole filler and got a gallon from

Sacramento Sky Ranch (best price).

One gallon was enough for 2 RV's.  Spray it on, the roller method is too

uneven.



I just finished painting my plane and would suggest both of the Sam James

videos. They are now for sale.

Fiberglass 101 $20 incl. shipping

Painting 101 $20 incl. shipping

Both for $35

Drop me an email off list. Kbob at cox.net



Kelly Patterson

N716K RV-6A

PHX, AZ

Final Assembly, ready to weigh



Time: 03:39:08 PM PST US

From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net>

Subject: Need suggestion for book on fiberglass






Does anyone know of a good book on how to do the fiberglass work that we 

typically do on RV's?  Im tired of guessing at every step and bugging 

everybody on this list.



Shemp/Jeff Dowling

RV-6A, N915JD

235 hours

Chicago/Louisville

- The Matronics RV-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List

Jim Carlton

Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 10

Posted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 6:15 am Post subject: Smooth Prime, Sam James Videos on Fiberglass & Painting

On Thursday 26 January 2006 08:50 am, Kelly Patterson wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   

 Here's a good primer on fiberglass work:



 http://rv8a.tripod.com/fiberglass.html



 I also recommend the Smooth Prime pinhole filler and got a gallon from

 Sacramento Sky Ranch (best price).

 One gallon was enough for 2 RV's.  Spray it on, the roller method is too

 uneven.



 I just finished painting my plane and would suggest both of the Sam James

 videos. They are now for sale.

 Fiberglass 101 $20 incl. shipping

 Painting 101 $20 incl. shipping

 Both for $35

 Drop me an email off list. Kbob at cox.net



 Kelly Patterson

Kelly,
	


Still have the videos? I would be interested.

Jim



Paypal? check?

 Jim Carlton

7614 Chesterfield Ave

Parma, OH 44129

- The Matronics RV-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List

n320wt(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 8:00 am Post subject: Smooth Prime, Sam James Videos on Fiberglass & Painting

I just read the fiberglass section at http://rv8a.tripod.com/fiberglass.html. This is all very good information and should be very helpfull to those just beginning to dive into the composite parts that come with your kits. The one thing I didn't see is the prep work need on the part you are working on. When applying a reinforcement or patch to any composite part that is cured, it is necessary to prepare that surface for bonding. I sand usually with 80 grit until there is nothing shiny left, then remove the dust with compressed air. I don't recommend cleaning freshly prepared surfaces with acetone as this just contaminates the surface you are preparing. After wetting out the cloth as described, apply a small amount of resin to the prepared surface using a gloved finger or squeegee. There just isn't enough resin left in the laminate to wet the surface of the part. Use a squeegee or roller to force out any trapped air. I usuall remove any excess resin from the edges of the layup

  by

 tamping with a folded dry paper towel. The prep work on the part is just as important as how the layup is prepared to ensure a proper bond. 

BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT) 

CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES

101 Caroline Circle

Hurricane, WV 25526

304-562-6800 home

304-395-4932 cell



How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?

- The Matronics RV-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List

rv8ch

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 250
Location: Switzerland

Posted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 9:57 am Post subject: Smooth Prime, Sam James Videos on Fiberglass & Painting

 	  Quote: 	
		   When applying a reinforcement or patch to any composite part that is

 cured, it is necessary to prepare that surface for bonding. I sand

 usually with 80 grit until there is nothing shiny left, then remove

 the dust with compressed air. I don't recommend cleaning freshly

 prepared surfaces with acetone as this just contaminates the surface

 you are preparing. 


	


I've always cleaned it with Acetone to try to get any last

bit of dust off, but I'll take your advice next time!



-- 

Mickey Coggins

http://www.rv8.ch/

#82007 finishing

do not archive

- The Matronics RV-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List

_________________
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/

n320wt(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 11:08 am Post subject: Smooth Prime, Sam James Videos on Fiberglass & Painting

Mickey, This subject was discussed at length on the Lancair List. The Lancair manuals recommend cleaning freshly prepped surfaces with acetone. Most builders especially professional composite workers and engineers have performend test that show improved bonding especially in peel strength when acetone or other solvents are not used. If you apply fresh epoxy to the sanded area and work it into the surface any minute particles of dust will mix with the epoxy just like cotton flox or micro ballons and become a part of the structure. If you use acetone, you are just making acetone soup and contaminating the freshly prepared surface. Some amount of acetone residue will always remain in the surface and weaken the bond.



BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT) 

CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES

101 Caroline Circle

Hurricane, WV 25526

304-562-6800 home

304-395-4932 cell



How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?

- The Matronics RV-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List

rv8ch

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 250
Location: Switzerland

Posted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 11:47 am Post subject: Smooth Prime, Sam James Videos on Fiberglass & Painting

 	  Quote: 	
		   ... If you

 apply fresh epoxy to the sanded area and work it into the surface any

 minute particles of dust will mix with the epoxy just like cotton

 flox or micro ballons and become a part of the structure. If you use

 acetone, you are just making acetone soup and contaminating the

 freshly prepared surface. Some amount of acetone residue will always

 remain in the surface and weaken the bond.


	


Makes sense - I'm convinced.  Thanks for the info.



-- 

Mickey Coggins

http://www.rv8.ch/

#82007 finishing

do not archive

- The Matronics RV-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List

_________________
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/

aldaniels(at)fmtc.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 12:10 pm Post subject: Smooth Prime, Sam James Videos on Fiberglass & Painting

I seem to remember from my Lancair build that the study I recall said it 

took something like 12 hours for acetone or MC to totally evaporate from 

the surface. That could be speeded up with the use of a hair dryer or 

other heat source. So if you have to remove contamination from a 

critical bond area, don't get in a hurry.



Brian Alley wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		  



Mickey, This subject was discussed at length on the Lancair List. The Lancair manuals recommend cleaning freshly prepped surfaces with acetone. Most builders especially professional composite workers and engineers have performend test that show improved bonding especially in peel strength when acetone or other solvents are not used. If you apply fresh epoxy to the sanded area and work it into the surface any minute particles of dust will mix with the epoxy just like cotton flox or micro ballons and become a part of the structure. If you use acetone, you are just making acetone soup and contaminating the freshly prepared surface. Some amount of acetone residue will always remain in the surface and weaken the bond.



BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT) 

CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES

101 Caroline Circle

Hurricane, WV 25526

304-562-6800 home

304-395-4932 cell



How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?

- The Matronics RV-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List

cjensen(at)dts9000.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 12:30 pm Post subject: Smooth Prime, Sam James Videos on Fiberglass & Painting

Daniels,

That doesn't sound right.  Given the high vapor pressure of acetone, it

should flash off almost immediately unless a semi-porous structure has

been totally saturated in acetone.  The earlier post about the best

cleaner being no cleaner is certainly true.  Whatever residual material

is left will always contaminate the interface and slightly reduce the

peel bonding when the new layer is applied.



Chuck

Do Not Archive



--

- The Matronics RV-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List

Display posts from previous:

	Matronics Email Lists Forum Index -> RV-List	All times are GMT - 8 Hours
Page 1 of 1

Jump to:

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You can download files in this forum