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Bonnets

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naumuk(at)alltel.net
Guest

Posted: Sat Nov 18, 2006 7:40 am Post subject: Bonnets

Polishers-

     I'm having no luck using my  rotary polisher- bonnet life is nonexistant. All I have to do is go over a rivet  and I'm done for. Bonnet shreds in no time. God help you if you catch a sheet  metal edge- bonnet shreds immediately.

     Rivets are set well within  Zenith "Can't get a fingernail under it" tolerance, and I'm using no more than  the "Weight of the polisher" pressure suggested by Nuvite. (Think about that  sentence, we really are rocket scientists!) I have no problem with my orbital  polishers, but they take forever.

     Believe it or not, my $18.95 HF  polisher is speed adjustable from 0-2500 RPM. Of course, I self destruct quicker  at high RPM than low, but it's still just a matter of time.

     1. Am I supposed to avoid going  over rivets until I reach the orbital stage?

     2. My HF polisher came with  velcro over the backing plate. I removed the velcro, but it doesn't seem to make  any difference. Anyone out there that bought the Wen rotary polisher from  Nuvite- is the face velcro or smooth?

     HELP!

                      I think we ought to  archive this one.

 Bill Naumuk

HDS Fuselage

Townville,  Pa

    [quote][b]

larry(at)macsmachine.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Nov 18, 2006 10:44 am Post subject: Bonnets

Hi Bill,

Polishing is hard work, given the amount of time needed to keep it 

looking good.  You might rethink paint.  I had no idea how durable and 

tough urethanes were until I was getting rid of nearly 20 painted sample 

panels.  They wouldn't fit the garbage container, so I folded them and 

jumped on each one until they would fit in the box.  Wife Lee noticed 

the paint wasn't cracked or affected by the abrasion or the direct 180 

degree bend on its own thickness.  It was still shiny.  Even if you 

painted only a base color and trimmed it out in vinyl, you'd probably be 

saving a lot of work.



On polishing rivets, I'd avoid high speed buffing on them as they will 

shine with the least effort.  On thin sheet of .016 to .020, I'd go 

lightly or you'll find distortion in the surface. 



Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com

do not archive



Bill Naumuk wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   Polishers-

     I'm having no luck using my rotary polisher- bonnet life is 

 nonexistant. All I have to do is go over a rivet and I'm done for. 

 Bonnet shreds in no time. God help you if you catch a sheet metal 

 edge- bonnet shreds immediately.

     Rivets are set well within Zenith "Can't get a fingernail under 

 it" tolerance, and I'm using no more than the "Weight of the polisher" 

 pressure suggested by Nuvite. (Think about that sentence, we really 

 are rocket scientists!) I have no problem with my orbital polishers, 

 but they take forever.

     Believe it or not, my $18.95 HF polisher is speed adjustable from 

 0-2500 RPM. Of course, I self destruct quicker at high RPM than low, 

 but it's still just a matter of time.

     1. Am I supposed to avoid going over rivets until I reach the 

 orbital stage?

     2. My HF polisher came with velcro over the backing plate. I 

 removed the velcro, but it doesn't seem to make any difference. Anyone 

 out there that bought the Wen rotary polisher from Nuvite- is the face 

 velcro or smooth?

     HELP!

                     I think we ought to archive this one.

 Bill Naumuk

 HDS Fuselage

 Townville, Pa

 *

 ========================================



 *

naumuk(at)alltel.net
Guest

Posted: Sat Nov 18, 2006 11:17 am Post subject: Bonnets

Larry-

    I'm committed now. Or, to be more precise, should be committed! You've 

known me since the REALLY bad old days and know this is just another bump in 

a washboard road. I'll figure it out sooner or later.

    Although everything was trued up when I clecoed the C section, I removed 

it from the cruciform jig and flopped it upside down on my workbench to 

polish the underside. In order to get rid of potential snags, I set some 

temporary rivets, then removed the clecos. I think I should lay the 

C-section on my bench after polishing and check for trueness. If not true, 

drill the temp rivets and realign.

    re: Distortion- I've been careful to keep the problem to a minumum. I 

have one area 2" square that might qualify.

Bill Naumuk

HDS Fuselage

Townville, Pa

---

tshank(at)core.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Nov 18, 2006 7:06 pm Post subject: Bonnets

Bill,

 I not sure what is causing your problem, I have yet to damage any bonnets. I have two for each grade of polish and after polishing my entire plane still have and use them all. The compounding bonnet I bought at a local auto finishing store and the rest form a local hardware/general store.

 

 Tim Shankland

 

 Bill Naumuk wrote: [quote]            Polishers-

       I'm having no luck using my rotary polisher- bonnet life is nonexistant. All I have to do is go over a rivet and I'm done for. Bonnet shreds in no time. God help you if you catch a sheet metal edge- bonnet shreds immediately.

       Rivets are set well within Zenith "Can't get a fingernail under it" tolerance, and I'm using no more than the "Weight of the polisher" pressure suggested by Nuvite. (Think about that sentence, we really are rocket scientists!) I have no problem with my orbital polishers, but they take forever.

       Believe it or not, my $18.95 HF polisher is speed adjustable from 0-2500 RPM. Of course, I self destruct quicker at high RPM than low, but it's still just a matter of time.

       1. Am I supposed to avoid going over rivets until I reach the orbital stage?

       2. My HF polisher came with velcro over the backing plate. I removed the velcro, but it doesn't seem to make any difference. Anyone out there that bought the Wen rotary polisher from Nuvite- is the face velcro or smooth?

       HELP!

                       I think we ought to archive this one.

   Bill Naumuk

 HDS Fuselage

 Townville, Pa

    	  Quote: 	
		  

	
 [b]

naumuk(at)alltel.net
Guest

Posted: Sun Nov 19, 2006 7:55 am Post subject: Bonnets

From: Bill Naumuk (naumuk(at)alltel.net) 

 To: Carlos Sa (carlossa52(at)gmail.com) 

 Sent: Sunday, November 19, 2006 10:53 AM

 Subject: Re: Bonnets



 



 Carlos-

     The bonnets are getting under  the rivets and self destructing. I figure even a thou or so clearance is enough  to grab the fibers when they're being driven in at the max recommended 2000  RPM. I'm probably running more in the 600-800RPM range.

     Let's face it, no matter  how perpendicular you try to hold a riveter, the rivet's still going to be  set at a slight angle, creating a little gap on one side. There are only a  handful of planes that are built using blind rivets, and I'm sure the Nuvite  procedure was created for standard, driven rivets. It comes down to simple  physics. Standard rivets are DRIVEN, while blind rivets are PULLED. A slight gap  is inevitable with blind rivets.

     The problem only shows up when  you're using a rotary polisher- orbitals aren't such  a problem.

     My immediate solution is to  avoid the rivets when using the rotary polisher and F9. I've done a half decent  job through grade C, and am going straight to Nuvite recommended flannel over a  wool bonnet for grade S. Flannel doesn't have the "Hairs" to get caught. Much  cheaper than a bonnet, too. My wife got me a square yard from Wal-Mart for  $1.00. For the next panel I polish, I'm going to try flannel over wool on my  rotary polisher, tucking the flannel under the elastic band and safety-pinning  it. 

     Soon as I'm done answering my  e-mails, I'm going out to see what grade S/ flannel over wool and my orbital  results in.

 Bill Naumuk

HDS Fuselage

Townville, Pa

 [quote]   ---

Gig Giacona

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1416
Location: El Dorado Arkansas USA

Posted: Sun Nov 19, 2006 10:25 am Post subject: Re: Bonnets

Just make sure it isn't green flannel.



DO NOT ARCHIVE



[quote="naumuk(at)alltel.net"]From: Bill Naumuk (naumuk(at)alltel.net) 

 To: Carlos Sa (carlossa52(at)gmail.com) 

 Sent: Sunday, November 19, 2006 10:53 AM

 Subject: Re: Bonnets



 



 Carlos-

     The bonnets are getting under  the rivets and self destructing. I figure even a thou or so clearance is enough  to grab the fibers when they're being driven in at the max recommended 2000  RPM. I'm probably running more in the 600-800RPM range.

     Let's face it, no matter  how perpendicular you try to hold a riveter, the rivet's still going to be  set at a slight angle, creating a little gap on one side. There are only a  handful of planes that are built using blind rivets, and I'm sure the Nuvite  procedure was created for standard, driven rivets. It comes down to simple  physics. Standard rivets are DRIVEN, while blind rivets are PULLED. A slight gap  is inevitable with blind rivets.

     The problem only shows up when  you're using a rotary polisher- orbitals aren't such  a problem.

     My immediate solution is to  avoid the rivets when using the rotary polisher and F9. I've done a half decent  job through grade C, and am going straight to Nuvite recommended flannel over a  wool bonnet for grade S. Flannel doesn't have the "Hairs" to get caught. Much  cheaper than a bonnet, too. My wife got me a square yard from Wal-Mart for  $1.00. For the next panel I polish, I'm going to try flannel over wool on my  rotary polisher, tucking the flannel under the elastic band and safety-pinning  it. 

     Soon as I'm done answering my  e-mails, I'm going out to see what grade S/ flannel over wool and my orbital  results in.

 Bill Naumuk

HDS Fuselage

Townville, Pa

  	  Quote: 	
		     ---

_________________
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR

marinegunner(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Nov 19, 2006 11:44 am Post subject: Bonnets

Carlos,

 Your problem is interesting. I am polishing about 1/3 of my airplane - the remainder will be painted. I have used the C9 with a Nuvite wool bonnet mounted on a Dewalt 1/2" VSR Drill. I operate the drill at full speed when compounding the airplane. I generally use each bonnet at least 8 or nine times before there is any significant degrading. Apply dabs of C9, compound and repeat a couple of times. Rake bonnet as required. Never use another grade with that bonnet. Follow C9 by compounding with lessor grade, then use the orbital polisher with same grade, followed by orbital with Nuvite S and a final hand polish. I use fleece and microfiber for everything after compounding. Works very well and I do not go through bonnets very fast. Oh! I do clean bonnets by letting them soak in a solution of Tide concentrate and water for 24 hours, then put them through the washing machine with two extra rinses. Keeps bonnets in great shape. Some of the aluminum on my airplane was purchased and worked as long ago as 1986. As you might imagine, there are lots of scratches, etc. When the polish job is complete, it looks very very good. Throughout the initial process I attempt to have the bonnet moving in a direction that does not cause it to catch metal edges, but go over them. Getting some really nice comments from folks who stop by and see what I am doing. I just don't have a problem polishing over the pulled rivet heads. I do not press down very hard, but I do press down. Cannot see where this may or may not help you, but thought you might like to know my results. 



-- 

Semper Fi,

Steven R. Hulland

CH 600 Taildragger

Amado, AZ



This and all other incoming/outgoing email, attachments and replies scanned prior to opening/sending and uses an external firewall to help insure virus free email and attachments.  

  [quote][b]

tshank(at)core.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Nov 19, 2006 4:49 pm Post subject: Bonnets

Bill,

 You bring up a point that has always somewhat concerned me. When I started my rudder kit (the only kit I bought)

  I looked up the information about how to rivet in the manual. It told about the specially shaped rivet puller to give the domed heads and a little drawing about the shape. What bothered me was that there were no dimensions or instructions other than that little drawing. I can only wonder how many variations there are of  those puller heads. I know the one I made have the rivet down tight enough that I had virtually no threads pulled out when I buffed. This issue was amusing to me when the list had an animated discussion of rivet strength and which factory made the rivet. It is all immaterial when the shape of the head is never clearly defined.

 

 Tim Shankland

 Bill Naumuk wrote:

 [quote]            Polishers-

       I'm having no luck using my rotary polisher- bonnet life is nonexistant. All I have to do is go over a rivet and I'm done for. Bonnet shreds in no time. God help you if you catch a sheet metal edge- bonnet shreds immediately.

       Rivets are set well within Zenith "Can't get a fingernail under it" tolerance, and I'm using no more than the "Weight of the polisher" pressure suggested by Nuvite. (Think about that sentence, we really are rocket scientists!) I have no problem with my orbital polishers, but they take forever.

       Believe it or not, my $18.95 HF polisher is speed adjustable from 0-2500 RPM. Of course, I self destruct quicker at high RPM than low, but it's still just a matter of time.

       1. Am I supposed to avoid going over rivets until I reach the orbital stage?

       2. My HF polisher came with velcro over the backing plate. I removed the velcro, but it doesn't seem to make any difference. Anyone out there that bought the Wen rotary polisher from Nuvite- is the face velcro or smooth?

       HELP!

                       I think we ought to archive this one.

   Bill Naumuk

 HDS Fuselage

 Townville, Pa

    	  Quote: 	
		  

	
 [b]

naumuk(at)alltel.net
Guest

Posted: Sun Nov 19, 2006 5:41 pm Post subject: Bonnets

Steve-

     Not Carlos, me. Carlos uses  paper towels! I'm about frustrated enough to go that route myself.

     There is one point you brought  up- I use the same bonnet for F9 and C, but a separate one for S.

     I ordered some flannel bonnets  and will see what happens. 

     There are still  two more variables to take into account. I'm polishing the bottom skin of  the C section, but the top isn't in place yet. There's a good possibility the  ribs are moving down under pressure since they're still relatively free, and  creating a pinch point. The other thing is, I've been using $1.99  HF bonnets. I would expect a Nuvite bonnet to be more  durable.

     What really bothers me is, C  isn't doing too good of a job getting rid of the F9 scratches.

                                   Do not  archive   

 Bill Naumuk

HDS Fuselage

Townville, Pa

 [quote]   ---

bryanmmartin

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1018

Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 5:16 pm Post subject: Bonnets

I didn't use a bonnet on my plane for the compounding buffer. I used a wool buffing pad, the velcro backed type. This is woat was recommended by Nuvite.

  

  	  Quote: 	
		  -------------- Original message -------------- 

From: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net> 

    Polishers-

     I'm having no luck using my rotary polisher- bonnet life is nonexistant. All I have to do is go over a rivet and I'm done for. Bonnet shreds in no time. God help you if you catch a sheet metal edge- bonnet shreds immediately

  

  

  

	
 --

Bryan Martin 

N61BM, CH 601 XL, 

RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive 

  [quote][b]

_________________
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
do not archive.

naumuk(at)alltel.net
Guest

Posted: Wed Nov 22, 2006 4:01 pm Post subject: Bonnets

Interesting. I'll try that if the flannel bonnets  don't work. Thanks.

 Bill Naumuk

HDS Fuselage

Townville, Pa

 [quote]   ---

naumuk(at)alltel.net
Guest

Posted: Thu Nov 23, 2006 7:50 am Post subject: Bonnets

Oh, yeah.

                                     Do  not archive

 Bill Naumuk

HDS Fuselage

Townville, Pa

 [quote]   ---

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