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MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com Guest
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Posted: Tue Dec 19, 2006 9:48 am Post subject: Using Sandpaper for various deburring tasks |
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I find that sandpaper on an aluminum block makes deburring long straight
edges pretty easy. The disksander works well on smaller parts. I'm
thinking of using a rubber block on some of those gently curving skins
on the tailcone.
Any thoughts on optimal grit and type of paper for this kind of work?
Aluminum oxide would seem to be a good choice but I just don't know.
What do you do?
Noel and Yoshie I believe mentioned using sandpaper for some hole
deburring - can you comment as to how and with what? I assume they are
using a block on prepunched sheets to knock down the 'volcanoes'. Would
you wait until after dimpling or while it's flat? BTW, thanks for the
tip about using a dimpled piece of scrap for dimpling sheet that will
need to accept another dimpled piece. Will be trying that.
Thanks all,
Bill "disassembling the tailcone and still riveting the elevator/trim
tab" Watson #40605
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LarryRosen
Joined: 16 Jan 2006 Posts: 415 Location: Medford, NJ
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Posted: Tue Dec 19, 2006 10:13 am Post subject: Using Sandpaper for various deburring tasks |
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Another question, I have to drill a hole to put in a pop rivet since I
cannot get to the back side. I can ream the hole, how do I debur the
back side?
Larry
MauleDriver wrote:
Quote: |
I find that sandpaper on an aluminum block makes deburring long
straight edges pretty easy. The disksander works well on smaller
parts. I'm thinking of using a rubber block on some of those gently
curving skins on the tailcone.
Any thoughts on optimal grit and type of paper for this kind of work?
Aluminum oxide would seem to be a good choice but I just don't know.
What do you do?
Noel and Yoshie I believe mentioned using sandpaper for some hole
deburring - can you comment as to how and with what? I assume they
are using a block on prepunched sheets to knock down the 'volcanoes'.
Would you wait until after dimpling or while it's flat? BTW, thanks
for the tip about using a dimpled piece of scrap for dimpling sheet
that will need to accept another dimpled piece. Will be trying that.
Thanks all,
Bill "disassembling the tailcone and still riveting the elevator/trim
tab" Watson #40605
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_________________ Larry Rosen
#40356
N205EN (reserved)
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n8vim(at)arrl.net Guest
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Posted: Tue Dec 19, 2006 10:24 am Post subject: Using Sandpaper for various deburring tasks |
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>how do I debur the back side?
Use a Cogsdil Burraway tool.
Nifty little tool...
-Jim 40384
Larry Rosen wrote: [quote]--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> (LarryRosen(at)comcast.net)
Another question, I have to drill a hole to put in a pop rivet since I cannot get to the back side. I can ream the hole, how do I debur the back side?
Larry
MauleDriver wrote:
Quote: | --> RV10-List message posted by: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> (MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com)
I find that sandpaper on an aluminum block makes deburring long straight edges pretty easy. The disksander works well on smaller parts. I'm thinking of using a rubber block on some of those gently curving skins on the tailcone.
Any thoughts on optimal grit and type of paper for this kind of work? Aluminum oxide would seem to be a good choice but I just don't know. What do you do?
Noel and Yoshie I believe mentioned using sandpaper for some hole deburring - can you comment as to how and with what? I assume they are using a block on prepunched sheets to knock down the 'volcanoes'. Would you wait until after dimpling or while it's flat? BTW, thanks for the tip about using a dimpled piece of scrap for dimpling sheet that will need to accept another dimpled piece. Will be trying that.
Thanks all,
Bill "disassembling the tailcone and still riveting the elevator/trim tab" Watson #40605
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[b]
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indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com Guest
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Posted: Tue Dec 19, 2006 10:35 am Post subject: Using Sandpaper for various deburring tasks |
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One of the tols I think works great are the fingernail emory boards, not the
normal ones with the red/brown/orange sandpaper, but the ones with the black
sandpaper and thick sanding core backing. There are two grits one on each
side.
John
Quote: | From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
To: RV10-List Digest Server <rv10-list(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Using Sandpaper for various deburring tasks
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2006 12:47:07 -0500
I find that sandpaper on an aluminum block makes deburring long straight
edges pretty easy. The disksander works well on smaller parts. I'm
thinking of using a rubber block on some of those gently curving skins on
the tailcone.
Any thoughts on optimal grit and type of paper for this kind of work?
Aluminum oxide would seem to be a good choice but I just don't know. What
do you do?
Noel and Yoshie I believe mentioned using sandpaper for some hole deburring
- can you comment as to how and with what? I assume they are using a block
on prepunched sheets to knock down the 'volcanoes'. Would you wait until
after dimpling or while it's flat? BTW, thanks for the tip about using a
dimpled piece of scrap for dimpling sheet that will need to accept another
dimpled piece. Will be trying that.
Thanks all,
Bill "disassembling the tailcone and still riveting the elevator/trim tab"
Watson #40605
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noel(at)blueskyaviation.n Guest
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Posted: Tue Dec 19, 2006 10:43 am Post subject: Using Sandpaper for various deburring tasks |
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In certain cases you can deburr like piper aircraft.
Noel
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