John Ackerman
Joined: 19 Jun 2006 Posts: 130 Location: Prescott, AZ
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Posted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 11:21 am Post subject: (No subject header) |
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Here's 2 cents more:
My main table is 32" wide and I love it. Best part is that it was a really heavy
assembly table I made for cabinet work, and thus is very low - about 26' as I
recall, 7 feet long, with 4X4 legs and an MDF top (like others, I think MDF is
nearly optimal). When I want it at a more conventional height, like 32", I bolt a
piece of 2X10 across the legs on each end. For things like assembling the tail
cone, the lower height is perfect; for most work the higher surface works better.
I'd do that again.
The back rivet plate from one of the usual tool suppliers is inlaid in the main
bench - big mistake. It's too small, and it's hard to tell where it is when
working on a big piece. Deems gave me a much bigger sheet (about 14X 20, I think
- this is being written on an airliner) of 1/4" thick steel, and it works like a
charm, especially for riveting the tail cone with the Clecoes put in from the
inside out. Thanks, Deems for the plate and for the idea!
I also built a light 4 1/2 foot auxiliary table from the tail crate and scraps.
For long stuff like the horizontal stab and wings, I shim it level and coplanar
with the main table, but leave a space between them of about a foot and a half.
That's pretty handy. The scavenged plywood/formica top is only 24" wide, and I
prefer the 32" width by a lot.
Grinder/ polishers, disk/belt sander and big 'ol vise are mounted on a
conventional bench against the wall. I should have taken the advice in Tony
Bingelis' books and built small roll around stands for all but the vise.
Drill press stands alone on the floor - nice if you can find a good used one for
cheap. There's a roll-around plastic table for clecoes and tools -in-use that's
handly, perhaps best is a kick stool for sitting on for low work. Saves the
remains of my knees.
do not archive
John Ackerman 40458 QB fuse
ps sorry so slow to post - I'm on the road
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