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Pro seal

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indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 10:45 am Post subject: Pro seal

I used some proseal from Van's which was sold in the caulking tube style 

system.



I read the instructions several times and for the life of me without any 

pictures, the directions made aboslutley no sense to me.  I ended up 

shooting the catalyst tube into the main product tube and then expelling it 

out and hand mixing.



The question is how long does it take before a skin starts forming on the 

product. WHEN i DID THE trailing edges I left everthing for five days.



Fortunately I am only glueing the SV vents to the fuse but after two days, 

it's like it is not setting.



How much time is required for a tacky skin to form.



John  G



Greatful for not doing the fuel tanks.

jesse(at)saintaviation.co
Guest

Posted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 11:22 am Post subject: Pro seal

If it is not cured after 2 days, I wonder if the catalyst didn't get mixed

well enough and possibly that part didn't get enough if any.  I used one or

two of those tubes and they started skinning within 30 minutes if I remember

correctly.  The stuff in the cans seems to take longer to cure, but always

seems to cure overnight.  I have never seen any that takes 2 days to cure.

I would recommend removing the vents if they will come off, cleaning the

stuff off of them and trying it again with a new batch.  I remember the

directions were not very easy to understand, but it seemed to work fine for

me.



Do not archive.



Jesse Saint

Saint Aviation, Inc.

jesse(at)saintaviation.com

www.saintaviation.com

Cell: 352-427-0285

Fax: 815-377-3694



--

rene(at)felker.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 12:17 pm Post subject: Pro seal

My 2 cents.  Proseal needs to be mixed with the correct ratio or it will not

properly set.  If I remember correctly, the set time on the stuff Vans sells

in the tubes is 30 Minutes, the can 2 hours.  I think you did not get the

correct mix.  



What color was it after you mixed it....black....grey......white....



Rene' Felker

40322

N423CF

801-721-6080

--

Albert Gardner

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 455
Location: Yuma, AZ

Posted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 1:03 pm Post subject: Pro seal

After you push the catalyst into the main tube, I think you pull/push the handle for about 50 times to get it all mixed up before you push it out of the tube to use it. I'm sure you can mix it outside of the tube since that's the way we do it when we use the canned product. My experience with the stuff is that if the mix is just a little wrong it increases/decreases the curing time but it still cures. The properly mixed stuff should be kind of gray. The tubes are nice for the tanks since the nozzle lets you put down a nice bead inside the tanks but much more expensive than the bulk product. Also, you have to use/throw-away the tube but with the can you can mix up just what you need or, if short, just mix up a dab more. I use the old 1 dab on a popsicle stick to 10 dabs ratio and it works fine.  

Albert Gardner  

Yuma, AZ  

   

        [quote][b]

_________________
RV-9A N872RV
RV-10 N991RV

AV8ORJWC

Joined: 13 Jul 2006
Posts: 1149
Location: Aurora, Oregon "Home of VANS"

Posted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 1:39 pm Post subject: Pro seal

ProSeal is a trademarked product of PPG - DeSoto.  FlameMaster makes a

similar product which is commonly confusing. Consistency is rated A, B

or C.  They are mixed by product specification to a cure time of 1/4,

1/2, 1 and 2 hour set.  The set process can be retarded by

refrigeration.  The product has a shelf life as a perishable.



When properly mixed, it Does set and Does cure to final consistency.

Chewing gum comes to mind. It is paintable. When improperly mixed it

does not correctly cure.  



B is the most often used in aviation.  For Line aircraft, B1/4 sets the

quickest, B1/2 is most often used for initial construction or Heavy

Check (annual inspection) type repairs.  When improperly mixed it never

becomes compliant and will fail.  Spraying it with Isopropyl Alcohol

mist allows the operator to smooth the product and provide a finishing

touch. We use masking tape to form the sidelines. MEK dissolves it

before SET and is not recommended without correct clothing and barrier

skin protection.



It has many uses, it stinks, it can be messy.



A proseal "professional" for the World's Top Regional Airline of 2007.

"Proseal... love it or leave it".



John, call me on my cellphone 503-453-6016, and I will share all the

wisdom of proseal.



John Cox

#40600

--

indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 1:56 pm Post subject: Pro seal

It turned grey. The black catalyst was mixed thoroughly, but I think the 

catalyst quantity may have been higher in what remained in the tube(Unused 

portion).



I'll pull the vents tonight and clean it all off. I've got some special 

epoxy that I should have used from the start. Still don't understand the 

mixing action by placing 10% into the tube, then pushing the tube in, then 

putting in the rest, then pumping it, then rotating 340 degrees clockwise, 

then one quarter turn counterclockwise. Or what ever. I re read it again 

this am and it still made noi sense to me.



Just glad it worked for all you working on serious areas like fuel tanks. 

guess I am just a visual type of guy. Thinking too hard.



I should have just mixed it like I did the can stuff, with my Pezo scale.



Thanks for the answers.



John G.



Do Not Archive





[quote]From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>

Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com

To: <rv10-list(at)matronics.com>

Subject: RE: Pro seal

Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 13:18:03 -0700






My 2 cents.  Proseal needs to be mixed with the correct ratio or it will 

not

properly set.  If I remember correctly, the set time on the stuff Vans 

sells

in the tubes is 30 Minutes, the can 2 hours.  I think you did not get the

correct mix.



What color was it after you mixed it....black....grey......white....



Rene' Felker

40322

N423CF

801-721-6080

--

jesse(at)saintaviation.co
Guest

Posted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 2:30 pm Post subject: Pro seal

As I remember it there are actually two plungers.  One is to push the

catalyst into the black stuff and the other is to mix the black stuff.  You

were supposed to push the catalyst plunger about 10% in to add 10% of the

catalyst to the black stuff at that end, then slowly push the mixing plunger

into the tube while adding the catalyst as well.  This distributed the

catalyst in the black stuff (man, I wish I could get away from that term).

Then, after the catalyst is completely added, you mix it together with the

mixing plunger by pumping it a certain number of times, then twisting and

pumping again just in case it wasn't getting thoroughly mixed the first

time.  Then, as I remember, you unscrew one of the plungers and screw on the

nozzle and start dispensing.  It didn't make sense to me at first, but this

is my understanding now, and it seemed to work, as I mentioned before.



Do not archive.



Jesse Saint

Saint Aviation, Inc.

jesse(at)saintaviation.com

www.saintaviation.com

Cell: 352-427-0285

Fax: 815-377-3694



--

rv10builder(at)bellsouth.
Guest

Posted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 3:57 pm Post subject: Pro seal

A tip for thorough mixing is to use a tap in a cordless drill, then 

insert into the handle.  Next best thing to machine mixing and will 

ensure a good setup.  I do recall encountering the same long setup time 

when I attached my vents.  I attributed it to my garage being cold at 

the time.  That's been a while ago and I am certain they're not going to 

come off easily.



Brian

#40308

http://www.mykitlog.com/rv10builder

tadsargent(at)bellsouth.n
Guest

Posted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 4:00 pm Post subject: Pro seal

I don't remember the origional post on Proseal cure but I have spoken to THE 

lab at Flamemaster.  The company who makes the stuff.  The cure time is 48 

hours at 77 degrees, then add 2 hours for each degree below 77 for a total 

cure time.

Tad Sargent

7A and building a 10

---

KiloPapa

Joined: 24 May 2006
Posts: 142
Location: Pearblossom, CA

Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2007 12:19 am Post subject: Pro seal

I had a similar slow set time in the cold, dry high desert

of SoCal.  I called the company and they said each 10

degrees cooler than listed specs would double the set time

if I recall correctly.  The set time listed is at a specific

temp and humidity.  Cooler and dryer would certainly affect

that.  It did finally set for me but took much longer than

the listed specs.  (It was fresh stock from Van's)



Kevin

40494



----- Original Message Follows -----

From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>

To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com

Subject: Pro seal

Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 10:43:25 -0800



 	  Quote: 	
		  I used some proseal from Van's which was sold in the

caulking tube style  system.



I read the instructions several times and for the life of

me without any  pictures, the directions made aboslutley no

sense to me.  I ended up  shooting the catalyst tube into

the main product tube and then expelling it  out and hand

mixing.



The question is how long does it take before a skin starts

forming on the  product. WHEN i DID THE trailing edges I

left everthing for five days.



Fortunately I am only glueing the SV vents to the fuse but

after two days,  it's like it is not setting.



How much time is required for a tacky skin to form.



John  G



Greatful for not doing the fuel tanks.



===

_________________
Kevin
40494

do not archive

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