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sshook(at)cox.net
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 Posted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 5:17 pm Post subject: Leading Edge Riveting |
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I have yet another question for the groups….
I am trying to figure out how the leading edge ribs get riveted to the main spar. I know the mechanics behind it but what I am trying to figure out is how people have gotten their arms down that far to get to the center two ribs and get the angle needed for a bucking bar in there?
Did you go out and rent an Orangutan with long arms to reach down there?
I got the two inboard ribs riveted to the spar and the two outboard ribs riveted as well. Short of climbing on top of the spar or inside the leading edge I am at a loss for the center ribs.
I know that Dan C. said that at one point Van’s told him to use CS4 blind rivets but I am not sure I want to go that route without talking to them this week which I know wont happen until Tuesday.
Scott R. Shook
RV-7A (Building)
N696JS (Reserved)
[quote][b]
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Bob Collins
Joined: 11 Mar 2006
Posts: 470
Location: St. Paul, Minnesota
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| Posted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 5:33 pm Post subject: Leading Edge Riveting |
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The leading edge is built on the bench and so the only rivets you have to drive to the main spar are the ones on the bottom (well, aft) flange. And on the main spar, there's lightening holes. If you have a riveting partner, it's fairly easy. On reaches in the outboard ribs lightening holes and bucks, one shoots.
I built my wings with a jig, which holds it vertically, and there were no bottom skins on. So really I don't think the arm length issue is at play. As I recall, the problem is it's difficult to get a rivet set on the head of the rivet because of the main ribs. You have to -- well, *I* had to, grind down an offset rivet set to get it be be perpendicular to the rib.
Some folks use pop rivets for the middle ribs. I've done it both ways. I think on one wing I pulled a couple of pop rivets on one wing. On the other -- because I had a helper on that one -- I bucked and he shot.
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott R. Shook
Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2007 7:17 PM
To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Leading Edge Riveting
I have yet another question for the groups….
I am trying to figure out how the leading edge ribs get riveted to the main spar. I know the mechanics behind it but what I am trying to figure out is how people have gotten their arms down that far to get to the center two ribs and get the angle needed for a bucking bar in there?
Did you go out and rent an Orangutan with long arms to reach down there?
I got the two inboard ribs riveted to the spar and the two outboard ribs riveted as well. Short of climbing on top of the spar or inside the leading edge I am at a loss for the center ribs.
I know that Dan C. said that at one point Van’s told him to use CS4 blind rivets but I am not sure I want to go that route without talking to them this week which I know wont happen until Tuesday.
Scott R. Shook
RV-7A (Building)
N696JS (Reserved)
[quote]
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
[b]
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Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
Letters from Flyover Country
http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/ |
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dan(at)rvproject.com
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| Posted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 6:05 pm Post subject: Leading Edge Riveting |
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Scott,
FYI, CS4 blind rivets are for countersunk holes. In my case Van's OK'd the use of LP4 rivets to fasten the leading edge rib flanges to the spar.
With a ground-down double offset rivet set, flexible wrists, and good feel/visualization skills, it can be done with solid rivets.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (1207 hours)
www.rvproject.com
www.weathermeister.com
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ceengland(at)bellsouth.ne
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| Posted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 7:44 pm Post subject: Leading Edge Riveting |
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With a long set, you might get away without the offset. I had better
luck with that than with the offset.
Charlie
Dan Checkoway wrote:
[quote] Scott,
FYI, CS4 blind rivets are for countersunk holes. In my case Van's OK'd
the use of LP4 rivets to fasten the leading edge rib flanges to the spar.
With a ground-down double offset rivet set, flexible wrists, and good
feel/visualization skills, it can be done with solid rivets.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (1207 hours)
www.rvproject.com <http://www.rvproject.com>
www.weathermeister.com <http://www.weathermeister.com>
---
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sshook(at)cox.net
Guest
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| Posted: Mon Feb 19, 2007 12:02 am Post subject: Leading Edge Riveting |
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I should have caught myself, I did mean to say LP4 rivets.
Scott R. Shook
RV-7A (Building)
N696JS (Reserved)
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2007 19:05
To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Leading Edge Riveting
Scott,
FYI, CS4 blind rivets are for countersunk holes. In my case Van's OK'd the use of LP4 rivets to fasten the leading edge rib flanges to the spar.
With a ground-down double offset rivet set, flexible wrists, and good feel/visualization skills, it can be done with solid rivets.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (1207 hours)
www.rvproject.com
www.weathermeister.com
---
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cnpeters
Joined: 24 Aug 2006
Posts: 23
Location: Bloomington/Normal, IL
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| Posted: Mon Feb 19, 2007 4:50 pm Post subject: Re: Leading Edge Riveting |
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I just did mine on an RV-9A yesterday. With my 12 y/o son riveting from below using an offset set, I reached the inboard three ribs by reaching thru the hole in the first inboard rib, using a thin tungsten bar. The outer 4 ribs were done by reaching up through the spar lightening holes. I checked the rivets by feel and some with a dental mirror - all worked well. It went fairly quick, but would have been very hard without a helper. I also held different bucking bars, but the thin, smallish but quite dense tungsten bar (got mine from this place http://www.buckingbar.net/ ) was clearly superior in the tight spaces.
Carl Peters
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Carl Peters
RV-9A wings |
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llsbiii3(at)netzero.net
Guest
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| Posted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 7:32 pm Post subject: Leading Edge Riveting |
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Scott,
I had my best luck standing the leading edge upright when riveting the skin to the ribs, and reaching around horizontally. I did make a new bucking bar, although I have not tried it yet. It is 1” hex 12” long with the last 2-3” bent at about a 30 degree angle. (picture attached) I kept the flats on the side to permit the head to be close to the rib. I used hex to allow me to feel the rotation index. I also bought a tungsten bucking bar with one end beveled from Cleaveland tools. If I can shake this cold I will try the tanks this weekend, and see what works best. Smitty has a nice tank stand on his web site.
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />
Riveting the ribs to the spar I asked my - long - tall - fiancée. She reached in through the rib holes and we felt for each other. QA was with a telescoping mechanics mirror and flashlight.
<?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" />Sherman Butler
Idaho Falls RV 7a wings
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