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Another paint prep question

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Deems Davis

Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 925

Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 7:52 am Post subject: Another paint prep question

I've seen pictures of some RV's that appear to have had some operation 

performed to the rivet lines on the airframes bare metal skins. From the 

pictures it appears that some type of powered mechanical device was 

used  (?).  I know that some builders have chosen to fill their rivet 

lines w/ body filler, I don't think I'll do that, but, I would like to 

have the rivet lines appear as uniform as possible. (given my limited 

set of riveting skills)



What have you guys done on this topic?



Deems Davis # 406

Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )

http://deemsrv10.com/

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ddddsp1(at)juno.com
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Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 4:19 pm Post subject: Another paint prep question

Deems, 

I have been advised and seen people TAP out rivets that were hit a little too hard.   They do pop out very nicely if you know what you  are doing.   We have actually tapped on a few more prepping the fuse the past week.   Some have even gone as far as SHIMMING  rivets to make it a smooth skin ......................as there are some areas that the ribs/longerons are not symetrical.  Depends if you are building an airplane or a MASTERPIECE as to how much time and effort you wanna put into it.  It has been an eyeopener on guidecoating the fuse and wings to see how many places are not as flat and smooth as they appear.   Once you guidecoat the plane all the high and low spots are very evident...........fill, sand, fill sand.............you know the drill.  It does not end until final paint is done.................I HOPE. 

DEAN  40449 



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carl.froehlich(at)cox.net
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Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 4:44 pm Post subject: Another paint prep question

Shimming fuselage ribs  is a must to prevent flat spots on curves.  The rule is if you can fit a  shim in between the skin and the rib, a shim is needed.  I found that  perhaps only 10% or so of the tail cone rib holes needed shimming.   Shimming adds only a few seconds to each rivet and it makes a world of  difference in how well the skin curve comes out.

  

 I use scrap .032,  025 and .020, drilled/dimpled/primed and them cut into 3/4" or so  squares. 

  

 Another way to do the  fuselage ribs told to me by an RV-10 builder is to use epoxy adhesive between  the fuselage ribs and skins, holding together with cleakos.  After  the epoxy is set then go back and install the rivets.  The idea is any  gap between the skin and ribs is filled with epoxy so you don't flatten the  skin.

  

 Carl Froehlich

 RV-8A (300  hrs)

 RV-10  (wings)

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