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Two Questions

 
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bnn(at)nethere.com
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2006 6:58 pm    Post subject: Two Questions Reply with quote

1. I have some steel fittings to connect my bubble door gas springs to the
doors and frames. What kind of preparation is required to paint steel? It
appears part of the fitting is chromed. Is there a way to tell? (I welded
purchased ball end plates to some 4130 tube. The purchased plates are
shiny, but I'm not sure they're chromed.) If chromed, how do I prep for paint?

2. Does anyone have a source for painting in San Diego? I've been trying to
clear coat my instrument panel and center console with disastrous results.
(No clean room.) Would anyone care to recommend a paint shop for a small
clear-coat LP job?

Thanks,
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.


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wingsdown(at)comcast.net
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2006 8:02 pm    Post subject: Two Questions Reply with quote

Just make a cardboard box big enough to cover the panel between coats.

Rick

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ddsyverson(at)comcast.net
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2006 1:28 pm    Post subject: Two Questions Reply with quote

Guy,

Prepping steel is pretty much a matter of being sure: 1) there is no foreign
matter on the surface such as oil, grease, silicon (the worst) or wax and;
2) roughing up the surface to provide sufficient tooth so paint will stick.

By far the best method that I have used is to sandblast a steel part (not
recommended for aluminum). If that isn't an option, us a flexible abrasive
wheel, sandpaper or something similar to roughen the surface so the paint
will stick. For what it is worth, sandblasted chrome plating (I try real hard
not to breath the dust - no - I make sure I don't!) works fine - I've done
this with cars where an original chrome plating was to be refinished with
paint to match the remained of the bodywork on a street rod. The only thing
you have to make sure of with a plated part is to check it to be sure there
are not any delaminated layers sticking up due to insufficient sandblasting
or sanding - usually is not a problem, but look for it.

Getting the foreign material off is a matter of using the proper solvent to
clean off the surface - do it before you sandblast/sandpaper and again after.

I also like to finish off any metal work with a phosphoric acid wipe/rinse
prior to painting. This is the stuff we know as "metl-prep" for autobody and
a similar product is provided through poly fiber for etching metal. I think
the polyfiber product also uses a bit of hydrofloric acid in their metal etch
product.

Good luck.

Dave S
St Paul, MN

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On Saturday 04 February 2006 8:47 pm, Guy Buchanan wrote:
Quote:


1. If chromed, how do I prep for
paint?


Thanks,
Guy Buchanan


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bnn(at)nethere.com
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 6:45 pm    Post subject: Two Questions Reply with quote

At 01:16 PM 2/5/2006, you wrote:
Quote:
This is the stuff we know as "metl-prep" for autobody and
a similar product is provided through poly fiber for etching metal.

Thanks Dave,
I've got Metl-prep, and I think I can rent a portable sandblaster
locally. That might be the best way to do it.
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.

Do not archive


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bnn(at)nethere.com
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 6:45 pm    Post subject: Two Questions Reply with quote

At 07:59 PM 2/1/2006, you wrote:
Quote:


Just make a cardboard box big enough to cover the panel between coats.

Thanks Rick, but I got most of my foreign objects during spraying. I did it
in the garage with the floor wet and all, but did not even try to fabricate
a spray booth. I guess I could to the plastic sheet over PVC thing. I'll
see how much a local shop wants to do the paint, first.
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.

Do not archive


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