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william(at)gbta.net
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 Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 10:27 pm Post subject: Elevator counterweight question |
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On page 9-15 (maybe 9-16, I don't remember) the instructions tell us to install the elevator counterweights with the listed hardware. The hardware consists of the 2 bolts (per elevator), two washers on the back side (nut side) and two nuts. It seems like there should be a washer between the bolt head and the lead counterweight but the instructions don't show this. Has anybody else installed washers on the side of the bolt head???
Also, what method are you using to trim the lead counterweights. I used the bandsaw to rough cut to the line but then had to file it to finish it because the lead fills up sandpaper, and the grinding wheels. The worst part was the backs of the 2 counterweights that had to be ground flush to fit inside of the tip ribs. Probably spent 2 1/2 hours trimming 4 weights today. Anybody got any secrets??? If there are more of these to do on the plane I'll probably take them to town and have them milled with a lathe next time!!!
Finally, where can I look to find instructions on using safetywire. I think the way I'm doing it is correct but would like to see some pictures or written instructions to confirm.
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevators finished, about ready to disassemble and deburr/prime tailcone
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Deems Davis
Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 925
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| Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2006 5:09 am Post subject: Elevator counterweight question |
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Bill, the Vixen file works great to trim the lead.
Deems Davis # 406
Wings
http://deemsrv10.com/
Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
| Quote: | On page 9-15 (maybe 9-16, I don't remember) the instructions tell us
to install the elevator counterweights with the listed hardware. The
hardware consists of the 2 bolts (per elevator), two washers on the
back side (nut side) and two nuts. It seems like there should be a
washer between the bolt head and the lead counterweight but the
instructions don't show this. Has anybody else installed washers on
the side of the bolt head???
Also, what method are you using to trim the lead counterweights. I
used the bandsaw to rough cut to the line but then had to file it to
finish it because the lead fills up sandpaper, and the grinding
wheels. The worst part was the backs of the 2 counterweights that had
to be ground flush to fit inside of the tip ribs. Probably spent 2
1/2 hours trimming 4 weights today. Anybody got any secrets??? If
there are more of these to do on the plane I'll probably take them to
town and have them milled with a lathe next time!!!
Finally, where can I look to find instructions on using safetywire. I
think the way I'm doing it is correct but would like to see some
pictures or written instructions to confirm.
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevators finished, about ready to disassemble and deburr/prime
tailcone
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zackrv8
Joined: 14 Jan 2006
Posts: 133
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| Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2006 6:13 am Post subject: Re: Elevator counterweight question |
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Bill,
I clamped the lead in a vice and took a "Sawz-All" to it. Cleaned it up up a Vixen file.
Should not be anymore lead to cut. The Ailerons on my RV8 have lead pipes in the leading edge and I assume the Rv10 does too.
Joe
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_________________
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512 |
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ricksked(at)earthlink.net
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| Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2006 2:49 pm Post subject: Elevator counterweight question |
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Bill,,
Lead sucks...period. I used a coarse hack saw then finished with a coarse vixen file. I have a file card to keep it clean (the file)...lead is just a pain but that's the last piece of it. The ailerons use steel pipe.
I just read a good article on safety wire in one of the latest mags, I think it was Sport Aviation but I don't recall. Keep the twist to 6-8 per inch and make sure the direction of the wire is such that it pulls the head or nut on the side that would tighten. It should be tight but not so much as to stress the wire. Nicks are a no-no.
Here is a good article http://www.ultralightnews.com/pilotslounge/safetywire.htm
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
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