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Visit to Randy to measure control throws

 
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ericmpmail-rv10(at)yahoo.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2006 10:46 am    Post subject: Visit to Randy to measure control throws Reply with quote


Hi, Randy was nice enough to let me take some
measurements off of his airplane last night. We had a
great time discussing RV-10's and admiring his
airplane. Great motivation for anyone to keep at it.
Now if it only stops raining in Portland...
I was primarily interested in aileron throws. We
measured the left wing aileron angle relative to the
top wing skin. Full up is 35 degrees and full down is
-12.6 degrees. To complete this motion, the actuator
rod transits ~ 2.2 inches.
Upper travel should be limited by the hard stop on the
mounting angle. Lower travel, when wings attached to
fuselage, is limited by the mechanical stop on the
opposite wing. However, another check is the bellcrank
should never be "over center".
I have an issue on my plane, my full up travel is
limited not by the mechanical stop, but by a clearance
issue with the actuator rod and the lower surface of
the hole in the rear spar. This could be addressed by
opening it up more, but I'm surprised that it is there
in the first place as everything is match drilled and
the doubler plate hole matches the factory opening in
the spar. Has anyone else seen this issue?
I did not notice on Randy's plane if the same
clearance issue exists. There is no clearance issue on
the outboard edge of the hole as the range of travel
when installed is not enough to touch the edge.
Also measured elevator and trim travel.
Elevator: Full up 4.9 degrees above horizontal plane
Full down 33.2 degrees below horizontal
plane
Trim tab (left):
Full down: 22 degrees down relative to trailing edge
of elevator
Full up: 6.4 degrees above relative to " " " "
Trim tab (right):
Full down: 21 degress down " " " " "
Full up: 27.1 degrees up " " " " "
Note: Full up travel is very different for L vs R tab.
Eric


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toaster73(at)earthlink.ne
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2006 8:41 pm    Post subject: Visit to Randy to measure control throws Reply with quote


Is the hole through your rear spar a "modified teardrop shape or a uniform
rectangle with rounded corners. I seem to remember seeing both types in
various website photos:
Look at the bottom 2 pictures on the following page on Mike Howe's or Tims
site:
http://www.etigerrr.com/Wings/september 6 2004.htm
and then this picture on William Curtis site
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/07Wings/wings36.html
My cut outs are like Williams , maybe has something to do with it?
Chris Lucas
#40072


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ericmpmail-rv10(at)yahoo.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2006 10:49 pm    Post subject: Visit to Randy to measure control throws Reply with quote


Chris,
Thanks for the links. Mine are like Mike Howe's and
(like him) I traced the rounded off retangle into the
doubler.
Did your comes as teardrop from the factory? Looking
at the photo's you can see the tear drop is bigger
than the retangle. It is the the same shape and size I
need to allow the aileron free travel to the stop.
I think people should check their rear spar and verify
that they have sufficient clearance. Don't rely on
sound as it makes a "clunk" as if it hit the stop
(when it's actually hitting the control rod).
I subsequently spoke with Randy and he opened up his
rectangle to more tear dropped for clearance as well.
I wish I knew about this issue before I riveted the
spar together but I'm glad that I know about it prior
to flying. My numbers are you need about 1/4 inch
additional clearance on the lower portion.
If you are still working on the wing kit you can check
this ahead of time by assembling the powder coated
parts of the aileron control system. You need only get
out the bellcrank, one aileron mount, cut the rod to
length and drill for the threaded ends. You can you
slide a rivet in to hold the ends on.
What is it like on the quickbuild wings?
Thanks,
Eric
--- Chris <toaster73(at)earthlink.net> wrote:
<toaster73(at)earthlink.net>


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Tim(at)MyRV10.com
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2006 9:22 am    Post subject: Visit to Randy to measure control throws Reply with quote


Definitely verify that you have clearance in this hole. At one
point when I tested it, a rivet on the rod that passes through
did get hung up on the hole edge and resulted in a "locked"
control. Sure, it probably could have been wiggled free,
but when you're at 5000' you don't want to have to play
around like that.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current section: Panel Wiring
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Eric Panning wrote:


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toaster73(at)earthlink.ne
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2006 7:18 pm    Post subject: Visit to Randy to measure control throws Reply with quote


My rear spar (slow build) came with the tear drop shape hole. I have set up
the aileron control already except for the fuel tank end. If I move the
aileron the 12.6 deg's I have no issue, I need a helper to see what angle
results in a rub of the rod to the spar, maybe 15 degrees. It is barely
good, so once I get everything on for "real" I will be looking at it again.
-Chris
#40072
Chris,
Thanks for the links. Mine are like Mike Howe's and
(like him) I traced the rounded off retangle into the
doubler.
Did your comes as teardrop from the factory? Looking
at the photo's you can see the tear drop is bigger
than the retangle. It is the the same shape and size I
need to allow the aileron free travel to the stop.
I think people should check their rear spar and verify
that they have sufficient clearance. Don't rely on
sound as it makes a "clunk" as if it hit the stop
(when it's actually hitting the control rod).
I subsequently spoke with Randy and he opened up his
rectangle to more tear dropped for clearance as well.
I wish I knew about this issue before I riveted the
spar together but I'm glad that I know about it prior
to flying. My numbers are you need about 1/4 inch
additional clearance on the lower portion.
If you are still working on the wing kit you can check
this ahead of time by assembling the powder coated
parts of the aileron control system. You need only get
out the bellcrank, one aileron mount, cut the rod to
length and drill for the threaded ends. You can you
slide a rivet in to hold the ends on.
What is it like on the quickbuild wings?
Thanks,
Eric
--- Chris <toaster73(at)earthlink.net> wrote:
> <toaster73(at)earthlink.net>
>
> Is the hole through your rear spar a "modified
> teardrop shape or a uniform
> rectangle with rounded corners. I seem to remember
> seeing both types in
> various website photos:
> Look at the bottom 2 pictures on the following page
> on Mike Howe's or Tims
> site:
> http://www.etigerrr.com/Wings/september 6 2004.htm
> and then this picture on William Curtis site
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/07Wings/wings36.html
>
> My cut outs are like Williams , maybe has something
> to do with it?
>
> Chris Lucas
> #40072


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schmoboy(at)cox.net
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2006 8:13 pm    Post subject: Visit to Randy to measure control throws Reply with quote


My slowbuild wings came with the rectangle instead of the teardrop.
Guess I'll have to keep that in mind as I'm getting to that point soon.
Thanks
-Sean #40303
do not archive
Chris wrote:
My rear spar (slow build) came with the tear drop shape hole. I have
set up the aileron control already except for the fuel tank end. If I
move the aileron the 12.6 deg's I have no issue, I need a helper to
see what angle results in a rub of the rod to the spar, maybe 15
degrees. It is barely good, so once I get everything on for "real" I
will be looking at it again.
-Chris
#40072
> <ericmpmail-rv10(at)yahoo.com>
>
> Chris,
>
> Thanks for the links. Mine are like Mike Howe's and
> (like him) I traced the rounded off retangle into the
> doubler.
>
> Did your comes as teardrop from the factory? Looking
> at the photo's you can see the tear drop is bigger
> than the retangle. It is the the same shape and size I
> need to allow the aileron free travel to the stop.
>
> I think people should check their rear spar and verify
> that they have sufficient clearance. Don't rely on
> sound as it makes a "clunk" as if it hit the stop
> (when it's actually hitting the control rod).
>
> I subsequently spoke with Randy and he opened up his
> rectangle to more tear dropped for clearance as well.
>
> I wish I knew about this issue before I riveted the
> spar together but I'm glad that I know about it prior
> to flying. My numbers are you need about 1/4 inch
> additional clearance on the lower portion.
>
> If you are still working on the wing kit you can check
> this ahead of time by assembling the powder coated
> parts of the aileron control system. You need only get
> out the bellcrank, one aileron mount, cut the rod to
> length and drill for the threaded ends. You can you
> slide a rivet in to hold the ends on.
>
> What is it like on the quickbuild wings?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Eric
>
> --- Chris <toaster73(at)earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>> <toaster73(at)earthlink.net>
>>
>> Is the hole through your rear spar a "modified
>> teardrop shape or a uniform
>> rectangle with rounded corners. I seem to remember
>> seeing both types in
>> various website photos:
>> Look at the bottom 2 pictures on the following page
>> on Mike Howe's or Tims
>> site:
>> http://www.etigerrr.com/Wings/september 6 2004.htm
>> and then this picture on William Curtis site
>> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/07Wings/wings36.html
>>
>> My cut outs are like Williams , maybe has something
>> to do with it?
>>
>> Chris Lucas
>> #40072
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