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Albert Gardner
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 455
Location: Yuma, AZ
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 Posted: Sun Mar 05, 2006 3:36 pm Post subject: Mid Fuse Rib Dimples |
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I'm about to rivet the Mid Fuse Ribs (Section 26) and I'm a little confused
on what to dimple/CSK, or leave alone. Attached pic indicates what I think
is proper. Can anyone confirm or correct?
Thanks.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
40-442
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Deems Davis
Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 925
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| Posted: Sun Mar 05, 2006 6:33 pm Post subject: Mid Fuse Rib Dimples |
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Al, I just finished Sec 26 and benefitted from the dialogue on this
section that took place a couple of weeks ago. Here's what I've done,
... so far.
F1004D,F1015B,F1005C - nothing so far, I'll wait til the side skins get
attached, hoping it will be more obvious/self apparent at the time.
F1015A - I dimpled all of the holes that match with the side skins
outlined in Sec 29-17 (these were #40 only) Sec 29-15 say's don't dimple
the #30's
F1018 - Ditto
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
Albert Gardner wrote:
| Quote: | I'm about to rivet the Mid Fuse Ribs (Section 26) and I'm a little confused
on what to dimple/CSK, or leave alone. Attached pic indicates what I think
is proper. Can anyone confirm or correct?
Thanks.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
40-442
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evmeg(at)snowcrest.net
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| Posted: Mon Mar 06, 2006 7:33 am Post subject: Mid Fuse Rib Dimples |
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Albert, you seem to have it right to me except for the #30 holes in
F-1015A. They do not get dimpled at all the way I read it. See page 29-15
for the skin layout. I'm glad I looked at this as it would seem also that
the 3 holes behind the rear spar carry through-in the same row (in F-1018)
do get dimpled. I don't see those on your picture, you may want to look at
the side skin... I'm pretty sure you match drill those through the skin..
Cheers..
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
---
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Albert Gardner
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 455
Location: Yuma, AZ
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| Posted: Mon Mar 06, 2006 10:25 am Post subject: Mid Fuse Rib Dimples |
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I got 3 feedback messages that corrected/clarified my understanding of
dimpling the mid-fuse ribs. Here is a corrected picture and the 3 messages
posted. Apparently all of this could be done in later steps but dimpling
F1015A and F1018 now is easier. Many thanks to those who have forged the
trail.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
40-422
Cheers..Evan Johnson
Albert, you seem to have it right to me except for the #30 holes in
F-1015A. They do not get dimpled at all the way I read it. See page 29-15
for the skin layout. I'm glad I looked at this as it would seem also that
the 3 holes behind the rear spar carry through-in the same row (in F-1018)
do get dimpled. I don't see those on your picture, you may want to look at
the side skin... I'm pretty sure you match drill those through the skin..
Deems Davis # 406
Al, I just finished Sec 26 and benefited from the dialogue on this
section that took place a couple of weeks ago. Here's what I've done,
... so far. F1004D,F1015B,F1005C - nothing so far, I'll wait til the side
skins get attached, hoping it will be more obvious/self apparent at the
time. F1015A - I dimpled all of the holes that match with the side skins
outlined in Sec 29-17 (these were #40 only) Sec 29-15 say's don't dimple the
#30's
F1018 - Ditto
PJ Seipel
Albert, You don't want to dimple the #30 holes in the F-1015A because those
don't get dimpled in the skin (29-15). Don't countersink the F1004D because
it gets covered up by the F-1004K (28-9 Fig 1). Page 29-15 is helpful too.
For what it's worth, I didn't dimple anything at the step you're on. I did
it all right before I put on the side skins. At that point it's
real easy to see what needs to get dimpled/countersunk. The only thing I
wish I would have dimpled ahead of time was the #40 holes in the F-1015A
excluding the joggles and the F-1018. If you wait, then you need a #40 3/8"
(little) pop rivet die for the holes along the bottom of the rib. Oh, and
don't put the nutplates on the F-1076 bottom skin (26-7 figure 1) yet. They
make it really hard to get the side skins on.
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RV-9A N872RV
RV-10 N991RV |
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