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Arty Trost
Joined: 25 May 2006
Posts: 206
Location: Sandy, Oregon
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 Posted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 1:54 pm Post subject: From Lockwood Aviation re: oil and fuel |
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Hi Kolbers,
This was posted today on the FlyChallenger list, and I thought it would be of interest.
Arty Trost
Sandy, Oregon
| Quote: | From Richard on the FlyChallenger list:
|
I had an interesting talk with Dean from Lockwood Aviation today
about my concerns for the best products to put through the 503 DCDI.
I know it's been discussed at nausium, but time is drawing near for
the crank to start turning.
About oil:
As spoken about on the list many times, Shell has bought out Penzoil.
He stated that with the supply of Penzoil 2 stroke oil for air cooled
engines drawing near extinction, Shell will be coming out with an oil
especially formulated for the Rotax engine. Great news!
It has been blind bench tested with three other brands and has
prooved its worth. It will be out soon but he doesn't know exactly
when or what the new product name will be. Stay tuned.
Fuel:
When asked what he would burn in a 503 if he was the owner.
He stated that if your concerned about legalities and need to keep
your fuel at the Rotax reccomended 5% or less of Ethenol then he
would mix, as some on the list have mentioned, 50% 100LL avgas with
50% auto gas, 87 octane or higher that contains 10% of Ethenol.
On the other hand he stated that there have been no ENGINE problems
with running the auto gas with 10% ethenol.
The POSSIBLE problems coud include deterioration of O-rings, Poly
fuel tanks, fuel lines if not Ethenol rated, and other rubberized
parts.
He stated that he would keep a close eye on these parts if running
straight auto fuel.
Fuel filters:
He doesn't encourage the use of paper element fuel filters when
running Ethenol tainted fuel. Dean states that over time, I don't
know how long, the paper absorbes the water from the Ethenol and
swells, which can cause a fuel starvation problem.
He suggest using a metal mesh fuel filter of 60 to 70 microns. The
Rotax manual suggest a metal mesh also.
These are his suggestions and I know there are vairables, but I
thought I'd put it out there.
I'm going to change my paper fuel filter to the metal mesh but
haven't decided what fuel or fuel mix I may use. I'm on the fence but
leaning towards the auto fuel with a higher octane.
I'm not sure but I think the higher octane fuel burns more completely
and may leave less deposits. I'd like your suggestions on the octane
rating?
Richard
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Dana
Joined: 13 Dec 2007
Posts: 1047
Location: Connecticut, USA
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| Posted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 5:11 pm Post subject: From Lockwood Aviation re: oil and fuel |
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At 04:53 PM 12/19/2008, TheWanderingWench wrote:
| Quote: | ...I'm on the fence but
leaning towards the auto fuel with a higher octane.
I'm not sure but I think the higher octane fuel burns more completely
and may leave less deposits. I'd like your suggestions on the octane
rating?
|
No difference there. Higher octane fuel has one purpose only: It resists
detonation, or "pinging". This is typically a problem on higher
compression engines. There is no advantage to using higher octane fuel
than the manufacturer calls for... it doesn't burn cleaner, or make more
power, or leave less deposits.
However... some auto fuel manufacturers may put more or different detergent
or other additives in their "premium" higher octane fuel. This may reduce
deposits; I don't know... but it's not the octane rating that's making any
difference.
-Dana
--
Software isn't released, it's allowed to escape.
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slyck(at)frontiernet.net
Guest
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| Posted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 6:04 pm Post subject: From Lockwood Aviation re: oil and fuel |
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If you are using a porous bronze filter with an oil mix you may have
a problem. Aside from blowing through them there
is no visual method to inspect. After some use, especially during
storage, they can gum up and reduce flow.
I did have one of those glass cylinder type on a VW and it was easy
to take apart to clean the plastic mesh sleeve
inside but wouldn't care to have the pot metal parts of that thing on
an airplane.
I will continue to use the "paper" filter and throw it away after
each season. They are resin impregnated and
reasonably waterproof. Cheap too.
BB
On 19, Dec 2008, at 4:53 PM, TheWanderingWench wrote:
| Quote: |
<thewanderingwench(at)yahoo.com>
Hi Kolbers,
This was posted today on the FlyChallenger list, and I thought it
would be of interest.
Arty Trost
Sandy, Oregon
> From Richard on the FlyChallenger list:
I had an interesting talk with Dean from Lockwood Aviation today
about my concerns for the best products to put through the 503 DCDI.
I know it's been discussed at nausium, but time is drawing near for
the crank to start turning.
About oil:
As spoken about on the list many times, Shell has bought out Penzoil.
He stated that with the supply of Penzoil 2 stroke oil for air cooled
engines drawing near extinction, Shell will be coming out with an oil
especially formulated for the Rotax engine. Great news!
It has been blind bench tested with three other brands and has
prooved its worth. It will be out soon but he doesn't know exactly
when or what the new product name will be. Stay tuned.
Fuel:
When asked what he would burn in a 503 if he was the owner.
He stated that if your concerned about legalities and need to keep
your fuel at the Rotax reccomended 5% or less of Ethenol then he
would mix, as some on the list have mentioned, 50% 100LL avgas with
50% auto gas, 87 octane or higher that contains 10% of Ethenol.
On the other hand he stated that there have been no ENGINE problems
with running the auto gas with 10% ethenol.
The POSSIBLE problems coud include deterioration of O-rings, Poly
fuel tanks, fuel lines if not Ethenol rated, and other rubberized
parts.
He stated that he would keep a close eye on these parts if running
straight auto fuel.
Fuel filters:
He doesn't encourage the use of paper element fuel filters when
running Ethenol tainted fuel. Dean states that over time, I don't
know how long, the paper absorbes the water from the Ethenol and
swells, which can cause a fuel starvation problem.
He suggest using a metal mesh fuel filter of 60 to 70 microns. The
Rotax manual suggest a metal mesh also.
These are his suggestions and I know there are vairables, but I
thought I'd put it out there.
I'm going to change my paper fuel filter to the metal mesh but
haven't decided what fuel or fuel mix I may use. I'm on the fence but
leaning towards the auto fuel with a higher octane.
I'm not sure but I think the higher octane fuel burns more completely
and may leave less deposits. I'd like your suggestions on the octane
rating?
Richard
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