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Master Brake Cylinder

 
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DuaneFamly(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 2:40 pm    Post subject: Master Brake Cylinder Reply with quote

Good day All,

I was attempting to bleed my brake system but wasn't having too much luck. So I pulled my Jamar master cylinder and found that the large seal nearest the spring was torn to pieces....on BOTH side! I am hoping that this was just an error in insufficient lubrication when reassembling after I tore the master cylinder down to clean out the crude that seemed to be left over after the manufacturing. The part number off the seal is 220-L-4502 along with a 54. If my resources were correct then this should be made of Buna-N (Nitrile) and is compatible with my Hydraulic Fluid 41 Mil-H 5606G. The other seal is marked ADM-45 2110....also Nitrile?
So here are my questions:
1) Am I right about the material and the compatibility?
2) Is there a source for me to order replacement seals in the US?
3) Is there a lubricant that I should be using when I reassemble the cylinders?
4) Are people still sanding down the outer edge of the white disc to prevent sticking?
5) Are builders replacing the spring with a stronger one or adding another spring?

Thanks in advance for any replies.
Mike Duane A207A
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Jabiru 3300
Sensenich R64Z N
Ground Adjustable Prop

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budyerly(at)msn.com
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 3:53 pm    Post subject: Master Brake Cylinder Reply with quote

<?xml:namespace prefix="v" /><?xml:namespace prefix="o" /><![endif]--> Mike,
Go to www.jamarperformance.com out of California. They have all the prices, new seals, etc. I cleaned mine first and reassembled. On one brake I did find a burr, but not anymore. Just sand it out I do not care to use hydraulic fluid which should require buna seals. Check with Jamar. I prefer Dot 5 (silicone) as any leaks do not create a mess on the interior or exterior and there is no problem with seal compatibility. The problem is that it is tougher to bleed because the bubbles don't move by fluid movement easily.

Technique on bleeding (once you get your new seals): Get a syringe which holds about 4 oz of fluid. Any type of pressure container will do, as long as it will not inject air into the fluid when compressing. Put a 1/8 - 3/16 hose (I use urethane) on it and attach to the brake caliper. Open the valve and push the fluid up. Mild pressure of a couple psi is all it takes. You have to have good fittings on your syringe because the fluid is slick and if the hose pops off it will go everywhere. Rotate the brake master on its side and rock it so the cross hole will allow air to go into the reservoir chamber and up to the reservoir. It's 30 minutes for the first one and 3 for the second side. I always make my brake master the highest point in the pressure side to eliminate air bubble chasing. The reservoir needs to be about 3-6 inches above the masters.

Bud Yerly
Custom Flight Creations
Europa Dealer.
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riddon(at)sent.com
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 12:13 am    Post subject: Master Brake Cylinder Reply with quote

Hi Mike.

I had endless problems with the Jaymar cylinders including sticking pistons, problems with bleeding and at one point the failure of one side. I have thrown them away and replaced them with the Matco ones available from the factory and have had absolutely no problems since.

Richard Iddon G-RIXS


-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DuaneFamly(at)aol.com
Sent: 09 February 2009 22:38
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Master Brake Cylinder

Good day All,



I was attempting to bleed my brake system but wasn't having too much luck. So I pulled my Jamar master cylinder and found that the large seal nearest the spring was torn to pieces....on BOTH side! I am hoping that this was just an error in insufficient lubrication when reassembling after I tore the master cylinder down to clean out the crude that seemed to be left over after the manufacturing. The part number off the seal is 220-L-4502 along with a 54. If my resources were correct then this should be made of Buna-N (Nitrile) and is compatible with my Hydraulic Fluid 41 Mil-H 5606G. The other seal is marked ADM-45 2110....also Nitrile?

So here are my questions:

1) Am I right about the material and the compatibility?

2) Is there a source for me to order replacement seals in the US?

3) Is there a lubricant that I should be using when I reassemble the cylinders?

4) Are people still sanding down the outer edge of the white disc to prevent sticking?

5) Are builders replacing the spring with a stronger one or adding another spring?



Thanks in advance for any replies.






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02/08/09 17:57:00
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Trevpond(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 3:29 am    Post subject: Master Brake Cylinder Reply with quote

Me too Richard,

The original units were totally unacceptable, with sticking and even worse, lacking the ability to hold the aircraft still when doing pre-takeoff engine checks.

I bought the new Matco units from the factory and since then, absolutely no problems; now have to watch brake applications when landing in case of lock-ups!

regards



Trev Pond
G-LINN
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