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daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com
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 Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 6:59 pm Post subject: final door trim |
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Does anyone have a good method for final trimming of the doors to the cabin opening? I will just have at it soon, and just by gosh and by golly my way through it but I am hoping there is a better way. Plans just say "Trim to fit." I searched the archives and found no joy. Thanks.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
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Deems Davis
Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 925
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| Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 7:11 pm Post subject: final door trim |
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Dave, This is a loaded question, And the andwer isn't a short one.I'm
sure there are threads in the Archive. But if you want a good fit, after
you 'trim to fit' so that the doors fit within the cabin cover opening,
you will have to build up the 'gap' that results from getting them to
fit. In short, I used duct tape to tape off either the door or the cabin
cover (release agent) closed the door slathered on Flox/micro
combination, let cure then sanded flush, Then reversed the process by
taping off the other (door/cabin cover) It took me several iterations to
get it decent.
Here's a link to my door page, there are several entries midway that
deal with the 'gap'
http://deemsrv10.com/cabinwindowslogindex.html
Then with all of that said, when you install you door seal, it will
likely change the fit and you'll end up 'tweaking' the fit again.
Deems Davis
N519PJ
3.2 hours Phase 1
Dave Leikam wrote:
| Quote: | Does anyone have a good method for final trimming of the doors to the
cabin opening? I will just have at it soon, and just by gosh and by
golly my way through it but I am hoping there is a better way. Plans
just say "Trim to fit." I searched the archives and found no joy.
Thanks.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
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pascal(at)rv10builder.net
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| Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 7:35 pm Post subject: final door trim |
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Both Deems and Jim Berry had a method that reviewed last June: search - "Re: 45 degree angle on the door edge"
to get you started.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "jim berry" <[url=wlmailhtml:{4CB39605-D0AE-4785-8395-BA802B9E9FB8}mid://00000392/!x-usc:mailto:jimberry(at)qwest.net]jimberry(at)qwest.net[/url]>
I will be interested to hear how Richard created a 1/8 inch rabbet, but in the mean time I can suggest an alternative. If you trim the door edge square so that it sits slightly inside the curved portion of the canopy edge, the door edge can serve as a mold for creating the rabbet. The inner edge of the door should be just tangent to the radius of the canopy edge. Once you have the windows installed, apply 2 layers of release tape(packing tape) to the edge of the doors. You should have all door locking hardware installed and adjusted to final fit. Close the doors and lock them in place. Trowel on a mix of flox/micro to the canopy top so it fills the gap between the door edge and the canopy. After it cures, open the doors and remove the packing tape. You will be left with a rabbet that exactly matches your door edge, and should require very little clean up. Also, I would suggest installing the door windows with the doors mounted on the canopy.
I spent many hours slowly fitting the doors and many more after installing the seals. You may be in for a long journey compleing Section 45.. But if done slowly and right it will be well worth the effort. My advice to you is skip the Van's seals and get an aftermarket one. I didn't and it was a lot of trimming after a perfect fit, it's a solid fit now but it came with a costs of hours.
Pascal
From: Dave Leikam (daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com)
Sent: Friday, May 29, 2009 6:57 PM
To: RV-10 matronics (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: final door trim
Does anyone have a good method for final trimming of the doors to the cabin opening? I will just have at it soon, and just by gosh and by golly my way through it but I am hoping there is a better way. Plans just say "Trim to fit." I searched the archives and found no joy. Thanks.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
[quote]
title="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
CTRL + Click to follow link" href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
[b]
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jdriggs49(at)msn.com
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| Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 6:18 am Post subject: final door trim |
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Any tips on how to keep the flox/micro from running everywhere when placed on a vertical surface? Even after making it super super thick it still tends to sag AFTER I've left it looking good. Thanks C Dan
From: pascal(at)rv10builder.net
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: final door trim
Date: Wed C 29 Apr 2009 20:35:20 -0800
Both Deems and Jim Berry had a method that reviewed last June: search - "Re: 45 degree angle on the door edge"
to get you started.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "jim berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net>
I will be interested to hear how Richard created a 1/8 inch rabbet C but in the mean time I can suggest an alternative. If you trim the door edge square so that it sits slightly inside the curved portion of the canopy edge C the door edge can serve as a mold for creating the rabbet. The inner edge of the door should be just tangent to the radius of the canopy edge. Once you have the windows installed C apply 2 layers of release tape(packing tape) to the edge of the doors. You should have all door locking hardware installed and adjusted to final fit. Close the doors and lock them in place. Trowel on a mix of flox/micro to the canopy top so it fills the gap between the door edge and the canopy. After it cures C open the doors and remove the packing tape. You will be left with a rabbet that exactly matches your door edge C and should require very little clean up. Also C I would suggest installing the door windows with the doors mounted on the canopy.
I spent many hours slowly fitting the doors and many more after installing the seals. You may be in for a long journey compleing Section 45.. But if done slowly and right it will be well worth the effort. My advice to you is skip the Van's seals and get an aftermarket one. I didn't and it was a lot of trimming after a perfect fit C it's a solid fit now but it came with a costs of hours.
Pascal
From: Dave Leikam (daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com)
Sent: Friday C May 29 C 2009 6:57 PM
To: RV-10 matronics (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: final door trim
Does anyone have a good method for final trimming of the doors to the cabin opening? I will just have at it soon C and just by gosh and by golly my way through it but I am hoping there is a better way. Plans just say "Trim to fit." I searched the archives and found no joy. Thanks.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego C WI
| Quote: |
title="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
CTRL + Click to follow link" href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ronics.com
ww.matronics.com/contribution
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Windows Live™ Hotmail®:…more than just e-mail. Check it out. [quote][b]
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ricksked(at)embarqmail.co
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| Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 6:27 am Post subject: final door trim |
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Cabosil is used to thicken the epoxy to prevent running. Add it to your flox and epoxy mix and make it thick enough to stay put.
Rick S.
40185
paint
---
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pascal(at)rv10builder.net
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| Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 6:50 am Post subject: final door trim |
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not thick enough! When I mixed my epoxy the consistency was that it did not move when it was ready. like thick peanut butter.
if you grab an area of the mixed epoxy (in the mixer container) and it sags, mix a little balloons in there until it holds.
With the small gap of the doors there really should be no sags at all.
Pascal
From: Danny Riggs (jdriggs49(at)msn.com)
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 6:16 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: RE: final door trim
Any tips on how to keep the flox/micro from running everywhere when placed on a vertical surface? Even after making it super super thick it still tends to sag AFTER I've left it looking good. Thanks, Dan
From: pascal(at)rv10builder.net (pascal(at)rv10builder.net)
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: final door trim
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 20:35:20 -0800
Both Deems and Jim Berry had a method that reviewed last June: search - "Re: 45 degree angle on the door edge"
to get you started.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "jim berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net>
I will be interested to hear how Richard created a 1/8 inch rabbet, but in the mean time I can suggest an alternative. If you trim the door edge square so that it sits slightly inside the curved portion of the canopy edge, the door edge can serve as a mold for creating the rabbet. The inner edge of the door should be just tangent to the radius of the canopy edge. Once you have the windows installed, apply 2 layers of release tape(packing tape) to the edge of the doors. You should have all door locking hardware installed and adjusted to final fit. Close the doors and lock them in place. Trowel on a mix of flox/micro to the canopy top so it fills the gap between the door edge and the canopy. After it cures, open the doors and remove the packing tape. You will be left with a rabbet that exactly matches your door edge, and should require very little clean up. Also, I would suggest installing the door windows with the doors mounted on the canopy.
I spent many hours slowly fitting the doors and many more after installing the seals. You may be in for a long journey compleing Section 45.. But if done slowly and right it will be well worth the effort. My advice to you is skip the Van's seals and get an aftermarket one. I didn't and it was a lot of trimming after a perfect fit, it's a solid fit now but it came with a costs of hours.
Pascal
From: Dave Leikam (daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com)
Sent: Friday, May 29, 2009 6:57 PM
To: RV-10 matronics (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: final door trim
Does anyone have a good method for final trimming of the doors to the cabin opening? I will just have at it soon, and just by gosh and by golly my way through it but I am hoping there is a better way. Plans just say "Trim to fit." I searched the archives and found no joy. Thanks.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
| Quote: |
title="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
CTRL + Click to follow link" href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ronics.com
ww.matronics.com/contribution
|
Windows Live™ Hotmail®:…more than just e-mail. Check it out. [quote]
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
[b]
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bkbrown(at)minetfiber.com
Guest
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| Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 6:59 am Post subject: final door trim |
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It’s not thick enough. Add more micro.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 7:16 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: final door trim
Any tips on how to keep the flox/micro from running everywhere when placed on a vertical surface? Even after making it super super thick it still tends to sag AFTER I've left it looking good. Thanks, Dan
From: pascal(at)rv10builder.net
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: final door trim
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 20:35:20 -0800
Both Deems and Jim Berry had a method that reviewed last June: search - "Re: 45 degree angle on the door edge"
to get you started.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "jim berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net>
I will be interested to hear how Richard created a 1/8 inch rabbet, but in the mean time I can suggest an alternative. If you trim the door edge square so that it sits slightly inside the curved portion of the canopy edge, the door edge can serve as a mold for creating the rabbet. The inner edge of the door should be just tangent to the radius of the canopy edge. Once you have the windows installed, apply 2 layers of release tape(packing tape) to the edge of the doors. You should have all door locking hardware installed and adjusted to final fit. Close the doors and lock them in place. Trowel on a mix of flox/micro to the canopy top so it fills the gap between the door edge and the canopy. After it cures, open the doors and remove the packing tape. You will be left with a rabbet that exactly matches your door edge, and should require very little clean up. Also, I would suggest installing the door windows with the doors mounted on the canopy.
I spent many hours slowly fitting the doors and many more after installing the seals. You may be in for a long journey compleing Section 45.. But if done slowly and right it will be well worth the effort. My advice to you is skip the Van's seals and get an aftermarket one. I didn't and it was a lot of trimming after a perfect fit, it's a solid fit now but it came with a costs of hours.
Pascal
From: Dave Leikam (daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com)
Sent: Friday, May 29, 2009 6:57 PM
To: RV-10 matronics (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: final door trim
Does anyone have a good method for final trimming of the doors to the cabin opening? I will just have at it soon, and just by gosh and by golly my way through it but I am hoping there is a better way. Plans just say "Trim to fit." I searched the archives and found no joy. Thanks.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
| Quote: | | title="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-ListCTRL + Click to follow link" href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.comhref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listronics.com |
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speckter(at)comcast.net
Guest
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| Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 7:20 am Post subject: final door trim |
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Cabosil is a better choice. You have flox for strength but you are weakening it with micro. Flox and cabosil is the way to go.
Gary Specketer
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob and Karen Brown
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:58 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: final door trim
It’s not thick enough. Add more micro.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 7:16 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: final door trim
Any tips on how to keep the flox/micro from running everywhere when placed on a vertical surface? Even after making it super super thick it still tends to sag AFTER I've left it looking good. Thanks, Dan
From: pascal(at)rv10builder.net
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: final door trim
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 20:35:20 -0800
Both Deems and Jim Berry had a method that reviewed last June: search - "Re: 45 degree angle on the door edge"
to get you started.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "jim berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net>
I will be interested to hear how Richard created a 1/8 inch rabbet, but in the mean time I can suggest an alternative. If you trim the door edge square so that it sits slightly inside the curved portion of the canopy edge, the door edge can serve as a mold for creating the rabbet. The inner edge of the door should be just tangent to the radius of the canopy edge. Once you have the windows installed, apply 2 layers of release tape(packing tape) to the edge of the doors. You should have all door locking hardware installed and adjusted to final fit. Close the doors and lock them in place. Trowel on a mix of flox/micro to the canopy top so it fills the gap between the door edge and the canopy. After it cures, open the doors and remove the packing tape. You will be left with a rabbet that exactly matches your door edge, and should require very little clean up. Also, I would suggest installing the door windows with the doors mounted on the canopy.
I spent many hours slowly fitting the doors and many more after installing the seals. You may be in for a long journey compleing Section 45.. But if done slowly and right it will be well worth the effort. My advice to you is skip the Van's seals and get an aftermarket one. I didn't and it was a lot of trimming after a perfect fit, it's a solid fit now but it came with a costs of hours.
Pascal
From: Dave Leikam (daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com)
Sent: Friday, May 29, 2009 6:57 PM
To: RV-10 matronics (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: final door trim
Does anyone have a good method for final trimming of the doors to the cabin opening? I will just have at it soon, and just by gosh and by golly my way through it but I am hoping there is a better way. Plans just say "Trim to fit." I searched the archives and found no joy. Thanks.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
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Jim Berry
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 237
Location: Denver
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| Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 8:10 am Post subject: Re: final door trim |
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As to trimming the doors to fit, I would recommend the double tape method copied below from the archives. Although the original discussion was related to trimming the cowl, it works equally well for the doors. There are several posts by others in the same thread. I used the method below to establish the cut line for the doors. Although I had used the double tape method many times for sheet metal and wood veneer fitting, I totally spaced it out till I saw Dave Saylor demo it at his first composite workshop. Works great. Once that was done, I used the duct tape method to create a new edge and gap for the door opening.
#14935 Subject: Re: Trimming the cowling From: "jim berry" <jimberry> Date: Jan 23, 2008
I was able to trim mine to a very close fit with 2 layers of masking tape. Two
inch wide tape works well for the cowl. Position the first layer of tape so that
the forward edge matches the forward edge of your sheet metal. Position your
upper or lower cowl per Van's instructions. Now position a second layer of tape
the same width as the first so that the aft edge matches the aft edge of the
first layer of tape. The forward edge of the second layer is your cut line.
Jim Berry
40482
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AV8ORJWC
Joined: 13 Jul 2006
Posts: 1149
Location: Aurora, Oregon "Home of VANS"
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| Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 8:26 am Post subject: final door trim |
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Everyone needs to cut Gary's comment for framing and paste it to the wall near the epoxy and micro supply. Don't make the mistake others have done by the dozens.
To use Thomas Paine's quote, immortalized by Robert Nuckolls - "a long habit of not thinking a thing wrong, gives it a superficial appearance of being right".
Micro gives volume with little gain in weight, and a false perception of structural strength. Epoxy has tremendous gain in weight for the same quantity. Epoxy's job is to bridge the stress forces across fibers, strands or filaments to complete the creation of a composite. More epoxy "Resin Rich" destroys that objective.
This would be a great time to plug for the filling of those last seats at Dave Saylor's RV-1 composite class coming up.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 8:10 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: final door trim
Cabosil is a better choice. You have flox for strength but you are weakening it with micro. Flox and cabosil is the way to go.
Gary Specketer
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob and Karen Brown
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:58 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: final door trim
It’s not thick enough. Add more micro.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 7:16 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: final door trim
Any tips on how to keep the flox/micro from running everywhere when placed on a vertical surface? Even after making it super super thick it still tends to sag AFTER I've left it looking good. Thanks, Dan
[quote] [b]
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ricksked(at)embarqmail.co
Guest
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| Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 8:39 am Post subject: final door trim |
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Umm Gary AND Rick's comment ; )Rick S.40185Paint
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
From: "John Cox"
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 09:23:42 -0700
To: <rv10-list(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
Everyone needs to cut Gary's comment for framing and = paste it to the wall near the epoxy and micro supply. Don't make the mistake = others have done by the dozens.
To use Thomas Paine's quote, immortalized by Robert = Nuckolls - "a long habit of not thinking a thing wrong, gives it a superficial appearance of being right".
Micro gives volume with little gain in weight, and a = false perception of structural strength. Epoxy has tremendous gain in = weight for the same quantity. Epoxy's job is to bridge the stress forces = across fibers, strands or filaments to complete the creation of a = composite. More epoxy "Resin Rich" destroys that = objective.
This would be a great time to plug for the filling of = those last seats at Dave Saylor's RV-1 composite class coming = up.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of =gary
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 8:10 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
Cabosil is a better = choice. You have flox for strength but you are weakening it with micro. = Flox and cabosil is the way to go.
=
Gary = Specketer
=
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob = and Karen Brown
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:58 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
It’s not thick enough. Add more micro.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny = Riggs
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 7:16 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
Any tips on how to keep the = flox/micro from running everywhere when placed on a vertical surface? Even after making = it super super thick it still tends to sag AFTER I've left it looking good. = Thanks, Dan
| Quote: | | _-=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D _-=3D - The RV10-List Email Forum - _-=3D Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse _-=3D the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription, _-=3D Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, _-=3D Photoshare, and much much more: _-=3D _-=3D --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List _-=3D _-=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D _-=3D - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - _-=3D Same great content also available via the Web Forums! _-=3D _-=3D --> http://forums.matronics.com _-=3D _-=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D _-=3D - List Contribution Web Site - _-=3D Thank you for your generous support! _-=3D -Matt Dralle, List Admin. _-=3D --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution _-=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D |
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pascal(at)rv10builder.net
Guest
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| Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 9:50 am Post subject: final door trim |
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As a reminder to answer the original question.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "gary" <[url=wlmailhtml:{4CB39605-D0AE-4785-8395-BA802B9E9FB8}mid://00000587/!x-usc:mailto:speckter(at)comcast.net]speckter(at)comcast.net[/url]>
Here is a little primer for those still unsure exactly what product to use
when.
Straight epoxy is used to lay up fiberglass cloth. This should be done
without additives like those listed below.
Cabosil is used to stop slumping and running of the epoxy. It does not
weaken the epoxy like micro Balloons does.
Chopped fibers (chopped fiberglass), Flox (chopped cotton)are used like
re-bar to give additional strength to the mix. The down side is that it
makes the cured resin a bugger to sand and does not usually give a very
smooth surface.
Micro or Micro Balloons are small spheres used to extend the resin to make
it easier to sand and have less weight than pure epoxy. However the
strength of the mix is weaker. The more balloons you add the weaker the mix
is.
The trick is to analyze your need and then mix up the appropriate material
for use.
Hopefully this helps a little for those who are just getting there feet wet
with this medium.
Gary Specketer
Dragonfly, Glasair III, Glastar, RV10, Tech counselor
From: John Cox (johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com)
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 8:23 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: RE: final door trim
Everyone needs to cut Gary's comment for framing and paste it to the wall near the epoxy and micro supply. Don't make the mistake others have done by the dozens.
To use Thomas Paine's quote, immortalized by Robert Nuckolls - "a long habit of not thinking a thing wrong, gives it a superficial appearance of being right".
Micro gives volume with little gain in weight, and a false perception of structural strength. Epoxy has tremendous gain in weight for the same quantity. Epoxy's job is to bridge the stress forces across fibers, strands or filaments to complete the creation of a composite. More epoxy "Resin Rich" destroys that objective.
This would be a great time to plug for the filling of those last seats at Dave Saylor's RV-1 composite class coming up.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 8:10 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: final door trim
Cabosil is a better choice. You have flox for strength but you are weakening it with micro. Flox and cabosil is the way to go.
Gary Specketer
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob and Karen Brown
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:58 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: final door trim
It’s not thick enough. Add more micro.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 7:16 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: final door trim
Any tips on how to keep the flox/micro from running everywhere when placed on a vertical surface? Even after making it super super thick it still tends to sag AFTER I've left it looking good. Thanks, Dan
[quote]
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
[b]
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Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.co
Guest
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| Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 10:20 am Post subject: final door trim |
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John's right, you don't want to use micro near the edge of the door opening. The door and other things tend to touch the edge pretty regularly so it needs to be filled with something tough like flox or milled fibers. Micro will crack and chip.
Cabosil (Aircraft Spruce P/N 01-04711) will help thicken the resin to keep it from running. You'll need some for bonding the door skins together if you haven't already.
And yes, we do have Composites for RV-10s coming up in a few days, May 9 and 10. We have a few seats available, and we cover all this stuff, and more: http://www.aircraftersllc.com/seminars.htm
We are still looking for a nearby kit that needs the top fit to the fuselage. If you're intersted, we do it for you in a couple hours, no charge. I can pick up and deliver around the Bay Area.
Thanks John!
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:24 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: final door trim
Everyone needs to cut Gary's comment for framing and paste it to the wall near the epoxy and micro supply. Don't make the mistake others have done by the dozens.
To use Thomas Paine's quote, immortalized by Robert Nuckolls - "a long habit of not thinking a thing wrong, gives it a superficial appearance of being right".
Micro gives volume with little gain in weight, and a false perception of structural strength. Epoxy has tremendous gain in weight for the same quantity. Epoxy's job is to bridge the stress forces across fibers, strands or filaments to complete the creation of a composite. More epoxy "Resin Rich" destroys that objective.
This would be a great time to plug for the filling of those last seats at Dave Saylor's RV-1 composite class coming up.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 8:10 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: final door trim
Cabosil is a better choice. You have flox for strength but you are weakening it with micro. Flox and cabosil is the way to go.
Gary Specketer
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob and Karen Brown
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:58 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: final door trim
It’s not thick enough. Add more micro.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 7:16 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: final door trim
Any tips on how to keep the flox/micro from running everywhere when placed on a vertical surface? Even after making it super super thick it still tends to sag AFTER I've left it looking good. Thanks, Dan
[quote]
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
[b]
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kearney
Joined: 20 Sep 2008
Posts: 563
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| Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 10:55 am Post subject: final door trim |
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Hi
I took Dave’s class last fall and it was well worth the trip to Watsonville, even from Alberta Canada. The nice wx didn’t hurt either.
Dave’s crew can fit a top so expertly that it will make you cry when you see how simple they make it seem. Dave also gives “lifetime tech support” for people who take his class.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643 – some assembly required
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: April-30-09 12:19 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: final door trim
John's right, you don't want to use micro near the edge of the door opening. The door and other things tend to touch the edge pretty regularly so it needs to be filled with something tough like flox or milled fibers. Micro will crack and chip.
Cabosil (Aircraft Spruce P/N 01-04711) will help thicken the resin to keep it from running. You'll need some for bonding the door skins together if you haven't already.
And yes, we do have Composites for RV-10s coming up in a few days, May 9 and 10. We have a few seats available, and we cover all this stuff, and more: http://www.aircraftersllc.com/seminars.htm
We are still looking for a nearby kit that needs the top fit to the fuselage. If you're intersted, we do it for you in a couple hours, no charge. I can pick up and deliver around the Bay Area.
Thanks John!
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:24 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: final door trim
Everyone needs to cut Gary's comment for framing and paste it to the wall near the epoxy and micro supply. Don't make the mistake others have done by the dozens.
To use Thomas Paine's quote, immortalized by Robert Nuckolls - "a long habit of not thinking a thing wrong, gives it a superficial appearance of being right".
Micro gives volume with little gain in weight, and a false perception of structural strength. Epoxy has tremendous gain in weight for the same quantity. Epoxy's job is to bridge the stress forces across fibers, strands or filaments to complete the creation of a composite. More epoxy "Resin Rich" destroys that objective.
This would be a great time to plug for the filling of those last seats at Dave Saylor's RV-1 composite class coming up.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 8:10 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: final door trim
Cabosil is a better choice. You have flox for strength but you are weakening it with micro. Flox and cabosil is the way to go.
Gary Specketer
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob and Karen Brown
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:58 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: final door trim
It’s not thick enough. Add more micro.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 7:16 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: final door trim
Any tips on how to keep the flox/micro from running everywhere when placed on a vertical surface? Even after making it super super thick it still tends to sag AFTER I've left it looking good. Thanks, Dan | Quote: | | href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.comhref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c |
0123456789012345
[quote][b]
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msausen
Joined: 25 Oct 2007
Posts: 559
Location: Appleton, WI USA
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| Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 3:47 pm Post subject: final door trim |
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One thing I haven’t really seen mentioned is why micro is a bad idea for anything structural or that takes a beating and some people might not know. Microballoons are just that, little hollow glass or phenolic spheres that are mostly air. This is why they are so light and can be sanded easy, but unfortunately adding a mostly air filler to a structure will just weaken it. The primary exception to this is when you are preparing foam for composite work but I won’t go there. J
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 1:19 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: final door trim
John's right, you don't want to use micro near the edge of the door opening. The door and other things tend to touch the edge pretty regularly so it needs to be filled with something tough like flox or milled fibers. Micro will crack and chip.
Cabosil (Aircraft Spruce P/N 01-04711) will help thicken the resin to keep it from running. You'll need some for bonding the door skins together if you haven't already.
And yes, we do have Composites for RV-10s coming up in a few days, May 9 and 10. We have a few seats available, and we cover all this stuff, and more: http://www.aircraftersllc.com/seminars.htm
We are still looking for a nearby kit that needs the top fit to the fuselage. If you're intersted, we do it for you in a couple hours, no charge. I can pick up and deliver around the Bay Area.
Thanks John!
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:24 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: final door trim
Everyone needs to cut Gary's comment for framing and paste it to the wall near the epoxy and micro supply. Don't make the mistake others have done by the dozens.
To use Thomas Paine's quote, immortalized by Robert Nuckolls - "a long habit of not thinking a thing wrong, gives it a superficial appearance of being right".
Micro gives volume with little gain in weight, and a false perception of structural strength. Epoxy has tremendous gain in weight for the same quantity. Epoxy's job is to bridge the stress forces across fibers, strands or filaments to complete the creation of a composite. More epoxy "Resin Rich" destroys that objective.
This would be a great time to plug for the filling of those last seats at Dave Saylor's RV-1 composite class coming up.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 8:10 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: final door trim
Cabosil is a better choice. You have flox for strength but you are weakening it with micro. Flox and cabosil is the way to go.
Gary Specketer
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob and Karen Brown
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:58 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: final door trim
It’s not thick enough. Add more micro.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 7:16 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: final door trim
Any tips on how to keep the flox/micro from running everywhere when placed on a vertical surface? Even after making it super super thick it still tends to sag AFTER I've left it looking good. Thanks, Dan | Quote: | | href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.comhref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c&bsp; - The RV10-List Email Forum -href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.================< Same great content also available via the Web Forums![/b] |
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.comhttp://www.matronics.com/con[/b] [b]
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rv10rob(at)gmail.com
Guest
|
| Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 4:48 pm Post subject: final door trim |
|
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I'll echo Les' comments.... great class, very informative, and it was fun to met Les and a bunch of other RV-10 builders. The basics were good for me, having no experience with composites; however, the real value was walking through all the RV-10-specific stuff. We just finished trimming the cabin cover, and it was definitely faster and we had more confidence, having seen it done before.
-Rob
On Thu, Apr 30, 2009 at 11:55 AM, Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca (kearney(at)shaw.ca)> wrote:
| Quote: |
Hi
I took Dave’s class last fall and it was well worth the trip to Watsonville, even from Alberta Canada. The nice wx didn’t hurt either.
Dave’s crew can fit a top so expertly that it will make you cry when you see how simple they make it seem. Dave also gives “lifetime tech support” for people who take his class.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643 – some assembly required
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: April-30-09 12:19 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: RE: final door trim
John's right, you don't want to use micro near the edge of the door opening. The door and other things tend to touch the edge pretty regularly so it needs to be filled with something tough like flox or milled fibers. Micro will crack and chip.
Cabosil (Aircraft Spruce P/N 01-04711) will help thicken the resin to keep it from running. You'll need some for bonding the door skins together if you haven't already.
And yes, we do have Composites for RV-10s coming up in a few days, May 9 and 10. We have a few seats available, and we cover all this stuff, and more: http://www.aircraftersllc.com/seminars.htm
We are still looking for a nearby kit that needs the top fit to the fuselage. If you're intersted, we do it for you in a couple hours, no charge. I can pick up and deliver around the Bay Area.
Thanks John!
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:24 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: RE: final door trim
Everyone needs to cut Gary's comment for framing and paste it to the wall near the epoxy and micro supply. Don't make the mistake others have done by the dozens.
To use Thomas Paine's quote, immortalized by Robert Nuckolls - "a long habit of not thinking a thing wrong, gives it a superficial appearance of being right".
Micro gives volume with little gain in weight, and a false perception of structural strength. Epoxy has tremendous gain in weight for the same quantity. Epoxy's job is to bridge the stress forces across fibers, strands or filaments to complete the creation of a composite. More epoxy "Resin Rich" destroys that objective.
This would be a great time to plug for the filling of those last seats at Dave Saylor's RV-1 composite class coming up.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 8:10 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: RE: final door trim
Cabosil is a better choice. You have flox for strength but you are weakening it with micro. Flox and cabosil is the way to go.
Gary Specketer
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of Bob and Karen Brown
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:58 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: RE: final door trim
It’s not thick enough. Add more micro.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 7:16 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: RE: final door trim
Any tips on how to keep the flox/micro from running everywhere when placed on a vertical surface? Even after making it super super thick it still tends to sag AFTER I've left it looking good. Thanks, Dan 01 23
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Rob Kochman
RV-10 Wings
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
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bkbrown(at)minetfiber.com
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| Posted: Fri May 01, 2009 8:31 am Post subject: final door trim |
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Whoa, nothing like a gang stomp when one is wrong, lol. I apologize for making the incorrect suggestion on the micro issue. I wasn’t weighing in on the appropriate of use issue (micro vs cabosil or other additives) in the mixture, only answering the original question which was posed as a lack of viscosity in a micro/flox mixture, where if you want more resistance to flow, you’d add more micro. I’d be interested to know if there are ranges of blends where specific physical qualities of additives are varied in a wider mix blend range, ie, flox/mico/cabosil or micro/chopped silica or flox/chopped silica etc. Generally as technologies evolve, they evolve in the direction of more complex mixes of previously known materials.
Thanks to everyone for posting the correct material of choice in the doore edge application. I’ll also add that if you REALLY need resistance to impact, I used to sell an additive to the automotive paint industry that makes paint more impact resistant, and it follows the same logic laid out above for why (one of the reasons) cabosil is recommended to be used rather than micro, and that is density. Though the specific gravity of the base material in Cabosil is the same as micro (about 2.4) , volume for volume cabosil is more dense than micro, as micro is mostly air.
The material that is used by the automotive paint industry to add impact (chip) resistance to both one part and two part paints is a fine grind of barium sulfate (barite). It also has the side benefit of adding more brilliance to any color and reducing the amount of pigment needed for any color. Barite is what makes paint heavy. Barite replaced calcium carbonate in this application even though it is much more expensive. Silica has a specific gravity of about 2.4, barite has a specific gravity of 4.3. That difference in density of the additive makes the final paint it more resistant to chipping and impact. Fine barite is also a common additive in sound insulation on aircraft, where its high density also reduces transmitted sound and allows a thin heavy layer of insulation to deaden sound more effectively than a thicker, less dense material. More useless but interesting information…
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 4:48 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: final door trim
One thing I haven’t really seen mentioned is why micro is a bad idea for anything structural or that takes a beating and some people might not know. Microballoons are just that, little hollow glass or phenolic spheres that are mostly air. This is why they are so light and can be sanded easy, but unfortunately adding a mostly air filler to a structure will just weaken it. The primary exception to this is when you are preparing foam for composite work but I won’t go there. J
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 1:19 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: final door trim
John's right, you don't want to use micro near the edge of the door opening. The door and other things tend to touch the edge pretty regularly so it needs to be filled with something tough like flox or milled fibers. Micro will crack and chip.
Cabosil (Aircraft Spruce P/N 01-04711) will help thicken the resin to keep it from running. You'll need some for bonding the door skins together if you haven't already.
And yes, we do have Composites for RV-10s coming up in a few days, May 9 and 10. We have a few seats available, and we cover all this stuff, and more: http://www.aircraftersllc.com/seminars.htm
We are still looking for a nearby kit that needs the top fit to the fuselage. If you're intersted, we do it for you in a couple hours, no charge. I can pick up and deliver around the Bay Area.
Thanks John!
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:24 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: final door trim
Everyone needs to cut Gary's comment for framing and paste it to the wall near the epoxy and micro supply. Don't make the mistake others have done by the dozens.
To use Thomas Paine's quote, immortalized by Robert Nuckolls - "a long habit of not thinking a thing wrong, gives it a superficial appearance of being right".
Micro gives volume with little gain in weight, and a false perception of structural strength. Epoxy has tremendous gain in weight for the same quantity. Epoxy's job is to bridge the stress forces across fibers, strands or filaments to complete the creation of a composite. More epoxy "Resin Rich" destroys that objective.
This would be a great time to plug for the filling of those last seats at Dave Saylor's RV-1 composite class coming up.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 8:10 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: final door trim
Cabosil is a better choice. You have flox for strength but you are weakening it with micro. Flox and cabosil is the way to go.
Gary Specketer
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob and Karen Brown
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:58 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: final door trim
It’s not thick enough. Add more micro.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 7:16 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: final door trim
Any tips on how to keep the flox/micro from running everywhere when placed on a vertical surface? Even after making it super super thick it still tends to sag AFTER I've left it looking good. Thanks, Dan | Quote: | | href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.comhref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c&bsp; - The RV10-List Email Forum -href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.================< Same great content also available via the Web Forums! |
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johngoodman
Joined: 18 Sep 2006
Posts: 530
Location: GA
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| Posted: Sat May 02, 2009 4:33 am Post subject: Re: final door trim |
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I don't think the question about how to keep it from sagging was answered. I am absolutely no expert, but I remember Dave Saylor showing us how to use Peel Ply (a dacron fabric I believe) on the practice chocks we made. I think lots of flox/cabosil and a final "hold in place" with Peel Ply might work.
John
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speckter(at)comcast.net
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| Posted: Sat May 02, 2009 4:52 am Post subject: final door trim |
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I like to thicken my epoxy/flox mix until it starts to get stringy when
flowing off the mixing stick and then thicken it up to non sag stage with
cabosil. I don't use peal ply for this application, although I don't think
that it would hurt, but peal ply doesn't flow around the arc of the door
very well.
Gary Specketer
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