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rear spar caps

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JHearnsberger

Joined: 22 Dec 2009
Posts: 31
Location: Springhill, LA

Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 6:20 am Post subject: rear spar caps

I clamped, marked, and cut the rear spar caps outside of my line using a band saw.



My cuts had a couple of gradual waves in them. I worked them out with an air belt sander and file by clamping the two pieces back to back to try to get them even.



It is not that big of a deal other than I would like to get as much insight as possible while starting out. The cut is not perfect, but will it be ok? Please see attached images.



Also, my air belt sander uses 60 to 120 grit belts. Is this fine enough for deburring aluminum?

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Tim Olson

Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2882

Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 6:34 am Post subject: rear spar caps

The cuts are probably straight enough, but 60 and 120 grit is not

fine enough to do good deburring.  Run those pieces over a

scotchbrite wheel until you see no nicks at all.  They will

look mirror smooth.



Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD

do not archive

JHearnsberger wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   

 

 I clamped, marked, and cut the rear spar caps outside of my line using a band saw.

 

 My cuts had a couple of gradual waves in them. I worked them out with an air belt sander and file by clamping the two pieces back to back to try to get them even.

 

 It is not that big of a deal other than I would like to get as much insight as possible while starting out. The cut is not perfect, but will it be ok? Please see attached images.

 

 Also, my air belt sander uses 60 to 120 grit belts. Is this fine enough for deburring aluminum?

 

 

 

 

 Read this topic online here:

 

 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 81268#281268

 

 

 

 

 Attachments: 

 

 http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0107_114.jpg

 http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0108_237.jpg

 http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0109_150.jpg

Kelly McMullen

Joined: 16 Apr 2008
Posts: 1188
Location: Sun Lakes AZ

Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 6:35 am Post subject: rear spar caps

Follow up your sanding with a pass of the Scotchbrite wheel. It will get you a nice smooth finish. I wouldn't worry too much about your cut.

Kelly

40866, QB Wings/Fuse



On Wed, Jan 13, 2010 at 7:20 AM, JHearnsberger <jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com (jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com)> wrote:

 [quote]--> RV10-List message posted by: "JHearnsberger" <jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com (jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com)>

  

 I clamped, marked, and cut the rear spar caps outside of my line using a band saw.

 

 My cuts had a couple of gradual waves in them. I worked them out with an air belt sander and file by clamping the two pieces back to back to try to get them even.

 

 It is not that big of a deal other than I would like to get as much insight as possible while starting out. The cut is not perfect, but will it be ok? Please see attached images.

 

 Also, my air belt sander uses 60 to 120 grit belts. Is this fine enough for deburring aluminum?

 

 

 

 

 Read this topic online here:

 

 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281268#281268

 

 

 

 

 Attachments:

 

 http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0107_114.jpg

 http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0108_237.jpg

 http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0109_150.jpg

 

 

 

 

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 arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List

 ===========

 http://forums.matronics.com

 ===========

 le, List Admin.

 ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution

 ===========

 

 

 

 [b]

_________________
Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor
KCHD

Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 6:45 am Post subject: rear spar caps

Looks good. Just finish them off with a scotchbrite wheel. 

 

 I use a 1" wheel  on a die grinder. Works great on those edges.

 

 Phil

 

 

 

 ---

jcumins(at)jcis.net
Guest

Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 9:51 am Post subject: rear spar caps

Jake those look just fine.  You will find you will get the cut and finish

next to the fine line skills will come back fast.  Kind of like coloring

book skills as a kid. What helps me get a nice straight edge is I use a 12

in disk sander that is mounted on my shop smith.  With the table 90 degrees

to the sanding disk I get a nice clean straight and square edge on material

I am trying to make.



Check Harbor Freight for a cheap table top 8-10 in disc sander there worth

every penny.



John G. Cumins



40864 Emp in primer mode



--

JHearnsberger

Joined: 22 Dec 2009
Posts: 31
Location: Springhill, LA

Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 1:06 pm Post subject: Re: rear spar caps

Thank you.

Albert Gardner

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 455
Location: Yuma, AZ

Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 1:32 pm Post subject: rear spar caps

Early on in building I was advised to get a roll of the 3" wide adhesive

backed sand paper usually sold in auto supply houses. You can stick it to

most anything, a socket for small radis, a section of PVC pipe for larger, a

form you cut from wood for the windshield lower fairing, or a short section

of 2x4. Most useful to me was 80 and 220. A long roll was about $33 as I

recall and I used about half a roll in building. Also you might look at a

vixen file.

Albert Gardner

N991RV

Yuma, AZ

_________________
RV-9A N872RV
RV-10 N991RV

JHearnsberger

Joined: 22 Dec 2009
Posts: 31
Location: Springhill, LA

Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 3:07 pm Post subject: Re: rear spar caps

What type of scotchbrite wheel? Is it the rolec pad? I am looking for something to attach to my die grinder. Also, what grit?



Sent from my iPhone.

jeff(at)westcottpress.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 3:30 pm Post subject: rear spar caps

3M SCOTCH-BRITE DEBURRING WHEEL from Aircraft Spruce



[/url]

On Jan 13, 2010, at 3:07 PM, JHearnsberger wrote:

[quote]--> RV10-List message posted by: "JHearnsberger" <jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com (jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com)>



What type of scotchbrite wheel? Is it the rolec pad? I am looking for something to attach to my die grinder. Also, what grit?



Sent from my iPhone.





Read this topic online here:



[url=http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281348#281348]http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281348#281348



         - The RV10-List   -->             &n========================

JHearnsberger

Joined: 22 Dec 2009
Posts: 31
Location: Springhill, LA

Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 4:35 pm Post subject: Re: rear spar caps

I think I would prefer to use it in a bench grinder. Does anyone have any recommendations for a good bench grinder to use with the scotchbrite wheel?



http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=39797



Thanks,



Jake

Kelly McMullen

Joined: 16 Apr 2008
Posts: 1188
Location: Sun Lakes AZ

Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 7:13 pm Post subject: rear spar caps

One of the easier ways to use a large Scotchbrite wheel is to mount it in a drill press, and just run the pieces over it. Leaves both hands free to manipulate/control the piece being deburred. Easier to install and remove than in a bench grinder. For large/ long pieces, like skins, a small scotchbrite wheel in a die grinder or hand drill works fine.

 

On Wed, Jan 13, 2010 at 5:35 PM, JHearnsberger <jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com (jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com)> wrote:

[quote] --> RV10-List message posted by: "JHearnsberger" <jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com (jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com)>

 

 I think I would prefer to use it in a bench grinder. Does anyone have any recommendations for a good bench grinder to use with the scotchbrite wheel?

 

 Thanks,

 

 Jake

 

 

 

 

 Read this topic online here:

 

 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281359#281359

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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 ===========

 http://forums.matronics.com

 ===========

 le, List Admin.

 ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution

 ===========

 

 

 

 [b]

_________________
Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor
KCHD

Kelly McMullen

Joined: 16 Apr 2008
Posts: 1188
Location: Sun Lakes AZ

Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 7:38 pm Post subject: rear spar caps

I forgot to mention, generally you will get smoother results if the piece is parallel to the rotating wheel, not the axis it is rotating about. That is why the wheel on horizontal axis with shaft vertical works well with long pieces held horizontal.

 

On Wed, Jan 13, 2010 at 8:11 PM, Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com (apilot2(at)gmail.com)> wrote:

[quote] One of the easier ways to use a large Scotchbrite wheel is to mount it in a drill press, and just run the pieces over it. Leaves both hands free to manipulate/control the piece being deburred. Easier to install and remove than in a bench grinder. For large/ long pieces, like skins, a small scotchbrite wheel in a die grinder or hand drill works fine. 



 

On Wed, Jan 13, 2010 at 5:35 PM, JHearnsberger <jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com (jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com)> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		    --> RV10-List message posted by: "JHearnsberger" <jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com (jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com)>

 

 I think I would prefer to use it in a bench grinder. Does anyone have any recommendations for a good bench grinder to use with the scotchbrite wheel?

 

 Thanks,

 

 Jake

 

 

 

 

 Read this topic online here:

 

 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281359#281359

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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 arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List

 ===========

 http://forums.matronics.com

 ===========

 le, List Admin.

 ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution

 ===========

 

 

 

 	




 



[b]

_________________
Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor
KCHD

JHearnsberger

Joined: 22 Dec 2009
Posts: 31
Location: Springhill, LA

Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 8:14 pm Post subject: Re: rear spar caps

What a great tip! Thank you.



I found the 7a wheels here  http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Manufacturing/Industry/Product-Catalog/Online-Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECFTDQGLE0_nid=8ZFZHRFX71beH55CPWS904gl



I am hoping I can find it locally somewhere.

Kelly McMullen

Joined: 16 Apr 2008
Posts: 1188
Location: Sun Lakes AZ

Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 8:49 pm Post subject: rear spar caps

Most of the tool kit suppliers include a large wheel as part of their

kits and sell separately. They aren't cheap, but one should do you for

the entire build process.



On Wed, Jan 13, 2010 at 9:14 PM, JHearnsberger

<jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 What a great tip! Thank you.



 I found the 7a wheels here  http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Manufacturing/Industry/Product-Catalog/Online-Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECFTDQGLE0_nid=8ZFZHRFX71beH55CPWS904gl



 I am hoping I can find it locally somewhere.





 Read this topic online here:



 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 81387#281387

_________________
Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor
KCHD

Strasnuts

Joined: 10 Feb 2009
Posts: 502
Location: Salt Lake City, UT

Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 9:24 pm Post subject: rear spar caps

They are around 50$  I am 99 percent done with the aluminum parts and  

I'm on number three???  I know other builders that just used one or two



Sent from my iPhone



On Jan 13, 2010, at 21:46, Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   



 Most of the tool kit suppliers include a large wheel as part of their

 kits and sell separately. They aren't cheap, but one should do you for

 the entire build process.



 On Wed, Jan 13, 2010 at 9:14 PM, JHearnsberger

 <jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com> wrote:

> 

> >

>

> What a great tip! Thank you.

>

> I found the 7a wheels here  http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Manufacturing/Industry/Product-Catalog/Online-Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECFTDQGLE0_nid=8ZFZHRFX71beH55CPWS904gl

>

> I am hoping I can find it locally somewhere.

>

>

> Read this topic online here:

>

> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 81387#281387

>

_________________
40936
RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
780 Hours
SuperSTOL 60 hours

jeff(at)westcottpress.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 11:11 pm Post subject: rear spar caps

Though the scotch-brite wheel is very useful, I ultimately found that skins and long parts that were difficult to get to the wheel were easily deburred with a large vixen file run a few times along  an edge at different angles.  It's also pretty easy to overwork a part with the scotch-brite wheel



Jeff Carpenter

40304

Yearning for the good old days of metal work... when fiberglass was far off in the future



On Jan 13, 2010, at 3:29 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:

[quote]3M SCOTCH-BRITE DEBURRING WHEEL from Aircraft Spruce



[/url]

On Jan 13, 2010, at 3:07 PM, JHearnsberger wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  --> RV10-List message posted by: "JHearnsberger" <jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com (jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com)>



What type of scotchbrite wheel? Is it the rolec pad? I am looking for something to attach to my die grinder. Also, what grit?



Sent from my iPhone.





Read this topic online here:



[url=http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281348#281348]http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281348#281348



         - The RV10-List   -->             &n========================



[b]



href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List

href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com

href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution



	


[b]

deej(at)deej.net
Guest

Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 6:45 am Post subject: rear spar caps

On 01/13/2010 07:35 PM, JHearnsberger wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   

 

 I think I would prefer to use it in a bench grinder. Does anyone have any recommendations for a good bench grinder to use with the scotchbrite wheel?


	




	I'm using one of these el cheapo $40 ones - works fine, price is right,

and it comes with a polishing wheel.



<http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43533>

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43533



	Replacement wheel kits are cheap $6:

<http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43758>

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43758



-Dj



-- 

Dj Merrill - N1JOV

Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/

Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - http://deej.net/yankee/

MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 7:14 am Post subject: rear spar caps

Jeff Carpenter wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   Though the scotch-brite wheel is very useful, I ultimately found that 

 skins and long parts that were difficult to get to the wheel were 

 easily deburred with a large vixen file run a few times along  an edge 

 at different angles.

The vixen file seems to be the ideal  tool for dressing the edges of 
	


tail/wing skins.  I had no idea what it was or how to use it but I 

described what I found out in a post - search the archives for 'Vixen' 

and look for my post (I can't find the supporting pics).  A very useful 

tool and very basic technique for skin deburring.  Very productive.



I found that the scotchbrite wheel in a floor mounted bench grinder to 

be by far the tool I use the most.  Still do.  I'm on my second wheel at 

3+ years of a 4 year QB.  The drill press thing sounds good - never 

thought about the axis thing but I wouldn't want to have to mount and 

de-mount  it all the time.  On the bench grinder, I first had a coarse 

and fine wheel - found just the coarse is fine.  Mounted a regular 

grinding wheel in the other for the little bits of steel work we do.



The little SB wheel in the die grinder is very handy when needed too.  

Have worn one out, on number 2.  I  used Avery's 3700 but I think I got 

it from Cleaveland:

http://www.averytools.com/pc-351-43-scotch-brite-cutting---polishing--wheel--kit.aspx

Tim Olson

Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2882

Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 7:51 am Post subject: rear spar caps

You can't beat the die grinder wheels for doing the inside of those

lightening holes. I went through about 5 or 6 of them over the

whole build, but used them a lot.  I bought 2 large wheels for

my grinder, and one is pretty worn, the other is worn some. So

1.5 or so did my whole project.  If I start another kit, I'll

buy one more big wheel, maybe put one of my grinder ones onto

a drill press, and buy a few more die grinder wheels.  That's

some of the nicest deburring you can get.

Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD

do not archive

Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote:

 	  Quote: 	

 <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>

 Jeff Carpenter wrote:

> Though the scotch-brite wheel is very useful, I ultimately found that 

> skins and long parts that were difficult to get to the wheel were 

> easily deburred with a large vixen file run a few times along  an edge 

> at different angles.

 The vixen file seems to be the ideal  tool for dressing the edges of 

 tail/wing skins.  I had no idea what it was or how to use it but I 

 described what I found out in a post - search the archives for 'Vixen' 

 and look for my post (I can't find the supporting pics).  A very useful 

 tool and very basic technique for skin deburring.  Very productive.

 I found that the scotchbrite wheel in a floor mounted bench grinder to 

 be by far the tool I use the most.  Still do.  I'm on my second wheel at 

 3+ years of a 4 year QB.  The drill press thing sounds good - never 

 thought about the axis thing but I wouldn't want to have to mount and 

 de-mount  it all the time.  On the bench grinder, I first had a coarse 

 and fine wheel - found just the coarse is fine.  Mounted a regular 

 grinding wheel in the other for the little bits of steel work we do.

 The little SB wheel in the die grinder is very handy when needed too.  

 Have worn one out, on number 2.  I  used Avery's 3700 but I think I got 

 it from Cleaveland:

 http://www.averytools.com/pc-351-43-scotch-brite-cutting---polishing--wheel--kit.aspx

Dick Sipp

Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 215
Location: Hope, MI

Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 11:25 am Post subject: rear spar caps

Another good technique for edge dressing is called "draw filling" wherein a 

standard fine file is turned 90 degrees or perpendicular to the work and 

dragged lightly alone the work edge.  Like others have said the edge still 

needs to be "polished" with a de-burring wheel of some kind.



Dick Sipp

N110DV 210 hours

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