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		JHearnsberger
 
 
  Joined: 22 Dec 2009 Posts: 31 Location: Springhill, LA
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				 Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 2:46 pm    Post subject: sealing trailing edge | 
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				Can I use any of these products or do I need to order something special?  I am ready to seal up the rudder.
 
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		pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth. Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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		davidsoutpost(at)comcast. Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 3:03 pm    Post subject: sealing trailing edge | 
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				I would recommend that you buy a 3 oz kit of the Flame Master tank sealant from Vans for this.  It is what they recommend and it will give you some experience using it before you get to your tanks.  The sealant will hold the edge of the rudder straight as an arrow and I don't know if what you are looking at would work as well.  It is also used building the wings on the trailing edges of the aileron's and flaps.
 
 David Clifford
 
 RV-10 In Progress
 Empennage Done
 Engine Overhauled & Pickled
 Closing up The Wings  
 
 ---
 
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		JHearnsberger
 
 
  Joined: 22 Dec 2009 Posts: 31 Location: Springhill, LA
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				 Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 3:32 pm    Post subject: Re: sealing trailing edge | 
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				OK, thanks.  I was hoping I would not have to wait before finishing up the rudder.  I wanted to take advantage of this beautiful Saturday while I can.
 
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		Kelly McMullen
 
 
  Joined: 16 Apr 2008 Posts: 1188 Location: Sun Lakes AZ
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				 Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 3:44 pm    Post subject: sealing trailing edge | 
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				Get 2 or 3 of the 1 oz kits. One for rudder, one for trim tabs and one
 for horizontal stab, if I recall correctly. You don't need more than 1
 oz at a time until you get to fuel tanks.
 
 On Sat, Mar 6, 2010 at 4:03 PM,  <davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net> wrote:
 [quote] I would recommend that you buy a 3 oz kit of the Flame Master tank sealant
  from Vans for this.  It is what they recommend and it will give you some
  experience using it before you get to your tanks.  The sealant will hold the
  edge of the rudder straight as an arrow and I don't know if what you are
  looking at would work as well.  It is also used building the wings on the
  trailing edges of the aileron's and flaps.
 
  David Clifford
 
  RV-10 In Progress
  Empennage Done
  Engine Overhauled & Pickled
  Closing up The Wings
 
  ---
 
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 _________________ Kelly McMullen
 
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor
 
KCHD | 
			 
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		Ron B.
 
 
  Joined: 17 Feb 2009 Posts: 103 Location: Nova Scotia
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				 Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 3:58 pm    Post subject: Re: sealing trailing edge | 
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				Get use to waiting for product, it's part of the build process. You will never know what you need until you need it. But it's all fun anyway>
 Ron
 
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		Kelly McMullen
 
 
  Joined: 16 Apr 2008 Posts: 1188 Location: Sun Lakes AZ
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				 Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 4:56 pm    Post subject: sealing trailing edge | 
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				You can probably get a pt of CS3204 B2 from Sacramento Sky Ranch
 faster than from Vans, and less money.
 http://tinyurl.com/yas9een
 On Sat, Mar 6, 2010 at 4:58 PM, Ron B. <cfxoa(at)klis.com> wrote:
 
 
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 _________________ Kelly McMullen
 
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor
 
KCHD | 
			 
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		Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 6:54 pm    Post subject: sealing trailing edge | 
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				I didn't use anything to hold the rudder TE together while riveting. Instead, I clecoed every other hole down to a piece of heavy angle iron (to keep it perfectly straight) and back riveted between the clecos.  This formed a straight TE, then I could back rivet the holes that originally held clecos.
  
  Checking the TE with a straight edge shows less than a 1/16" deviation from perfectly straight. I'll bet its closer to 1/32".
  
  Phil
  
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		Kelly McMullen
 
 
  Joined: 16 Apr 2008 Posts: 1188 Location: Sun Lakes AZ
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				 Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 7:16 pm    Post subject: sealing trailing edge | 
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				But what did you use for primer?  )
 
 On Sat, Mar 6, 2010 at 7:49 PM, Perry, Phil <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> wrote:
  	  | Quote: | 	 		   I didn't use anything to hold the rudder TE together while riveting.
  Instead, I clecoed every other hole down to a piece of heavy angle iron (to
  keep it perfectly straight) and back riveted between the clecos.  This
  formed a straight TE, then I could back rivet the holes that originally held
  clecos.
 
  Checking the TE with a straight edge shows less than a 1/16" deviation from
  perfectly straight. I'll bet its closer to 1/32".
 
  Phil
 
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 _________________ Kelly McMullen
 
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor
 
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		rv10builder(at)verizon.ne Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 7:25 pm    Post subject: sealing trailing edge | 
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				go to home depot or lowes and get PL-2000 works for this. It was really easy 
 to use using a caulk gun and cost like $3.96. no need to wait for something 
 like this.
 AS far as the comments about the flamemaster (proseal) talk sealant, the 
 stuff smells and is really sticky, use a ziplock or something else to 
 squeeze it, I didn't< I used Q-tips and less than a can to do all the tanks. 
 No leaks from using only what is needed. Practice is good advice but I might 
 suggest doing it before doing the tanks not way before and along the way, 
 although it can't hurt. Oh and if it gets on any of your clothes don't waste 
 time trying to clean up with MEK  again really smelly and toxic to the skin. 
 Another reason to avoid using tank sealant for anything but the tanks.
 Best of success with the trailing edge- use a L bracket clecoed to keep it 
 straight as an arrow. Check out the archives, everything I mentioned for 
 doing the trainling edges  was covered by Les Kearney a couple of years ago.
 
 --------------------------------------------------
 From: "JHearnsberger" <jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com>
 Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2010 3:32 PM
 To: <rv10-list(at)matronics.com>
 Subject: Re: sealing trailing edge
 
 
 
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		40950(at)rv10.net Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 7:49 pm    Post subject: sealing trailing edge | 
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				Same as Phil, I did not use anything to hold the rudder TE. Rolled the edges with Cleaveland edge forming tool before and back riveted on flat iron. Came out straight.
 
 On Mar 6, 2010, at 8:49 PM, Perry, Phil wrote:
 
  	  | Quote: | 	 		   I didn't use anything to hold the rudder TE together while riveting. Instead, I clecoed every other hole down to a piece of heavy angle iron (to keep it perfectly straight) and back riveted between the clecos.  This formed a straight TE, then I could back rivet the holes that originally held clecos.
  
  Checking the TE with a straight edge shows less than a 1/16" deviation from perfectly straight. I'll bet its closer to 1/32".
  
  Phil
 
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		Lew Gallagher
 
  
  Joined: 04 Jan 2008 Posts: 402 Location: Greenville , SC
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				 Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 8:06 pm    Post subject: Re: sealing trailing edge | 
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				Hey Jake,
 
 A search for "PL-2000" turned up nothing ... probably meant PL-200 ?
 
 Party on.
 
 Later, - Lew
 
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 _________________ non-pilot
 
crazy about building
 
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
 
Fly off completed ! | 
			 
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		rv10builder(at)verizon.ne Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 10:49 am    Post subject: sealing trailing edge | 
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				you have me to blame for that. Yes, I meant PL200 although I used a 
 polyurethane adhesive 
 http://www.stickwithpl.com/Products.aspx?ID=fef65cc9-47bf-4802-aaa9-a343f2ef9458 
 and it worked great for all sorts of bonding.
 Pascal
 
 --------------------------------------------------
 From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
 Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2010 8:06 PM
 To: <rv10-list(at)matronics.com>
 Subject: Re: sealing trailing edge
 
  	  | Quote: | 	 		   
 
  Hey Jake,
 
  A search for "PL-2000" turned up nothing ... probably meant PL-200 ?
 
  Party on.
 
  Later, - Lew
 
  --------
  non-pilot
  crazy about building
  NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
  Avionics in, engine started!
 
 
  Read this topic online here:
 
  http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=289453#289453
 
  
 
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