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My 2 Cents on the Landing Gear

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flysrv10(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Apr 26, 2006 6:31 am Post subject: My 2 Cents on the Landing Gear

I used the same reamer as you have purchased.  I found it easier to

insert the reamer from the button, chuck it and pull it through the

hole.  If you decide to do this, you may need to grind the blade

shoulders at the reamer stem side to be able to pull up through.

On 4/26/06, Conti, Rick <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 Whenever I start a new "kit", I review the instructions several times,

 once to ensure I have the necessary tools and parts.  The .311" drill

 bit appeared to be a problem.  I called Van's and received an

 interesting answer:  I was told a 5/16 bit would be okay.  I haven't

 installed the gear yet and after reading about loose landing gear I had

 second thoughts.  I received my .311" reamer from McMaster-Carr (thanks

 for the info) yesterday.  But is has occurred to me, that 5/16" would be

 fine provided the bolt matched.  Drilling with a 5/16" bit though the

 leg and support would not cause a problem.  The problem would be from an

 undersized bolt.  Would everyone agree 5/16" would be okay with a proper

 (precise fit) bolt?



 Thank You

 Rick Conti

 Senior Engineering Manager

 The Boeing Company

           office: 703 - 414 - 6141

 blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134

rick.conti(at)boeing.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Apr 26, 2006 6:46 am Post subject: My 2 Cents on the Landing Gear

Thanks for the advice.



DO NOT ARCHIVE



Thank You

Rick Conti

Senior Engineering Manager

The Boeing Company

          office: 703 - 414 - 6141

blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134

--

johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 6:00 am Post subject: My 2 Cents on the Landing Gear

No.  When the manufacturer calls out a 7.9mm ream then the objective may

just be a tolerance (tight) fit.  Fretting and Galling will ensue over a

short period of time.  The issue (question) should always be, if this

doesn't work what is the serviceability issue the second time I do it.

Don't try to sand the cadmium coating off either.



Both the mount, the bolt and the gear leg would need replacement.

Calculate the hard dollar cost, then add the effort to retrofit

correctly reamed replacement parts. That includes R & R. In the effort

to cut a corner or two, or save a few dollars, the experimental builder

can give legions of stories of shooting themselves in the proverbial

foot just a few months or years down the road.



That said, I have a source of liquid nitrogen at work which makes such a

clearance the non-issue.  Study the concept and calculate the

serviceability cost.  It is a corner that I would say NO to.  Too much

is riding on it.  Take a moment and ask your buddies at work about

altering written aeronautical plans.  Talk to your DAR and Tech

Inspector.



Van also says alter the design at your own risk.  Until they put 5/16"

in writing, accept no employees dialog on such an issue (unless

admissible in Oregon court).



John Cox - $00.02

Do not Archive



--

LarryRosen

Joined: 16 Jan 2006
Posts: 415
Location: Medford, NJ

Posted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 6:26 am Post subject: My 2 Cents on the Landing Gear

Not all of us would have access to liquid nitrogen, but dry ice may do 

the trick.



Larry



John W. Cox wrote:



[quote]



No.  When the manufacturer calls out a 7.9mm ream then the objective may

just be a tolerance (tight) fit.  Fretting and Galling will ensue over a

short period of time.  The issue (question) should always be, if this

doesn't work what is the serviceability issue the second time I do it.

Don't try to sand the cadmium coating off either.



Both the mount, the bolt and the gear leg would need replacement.

Calculate the hard dollar cost, then add the effort to retrofit

correctly reamed replacement parts. That includes R & R. In the effort

to cut a corner or two, or save a few dollars, the experimental builder

can give legions of stories of shooting themselves in the proverbial

foot just a few months or years down the road.



That said, I have a source of liquid nitrogen at work which makes such a

clearance the non-issue.  Study the concept and calculate the

serviceability cost.  It is a corner that I would say NO to.  Too much

is riding on it.  Take a moment and ask your buddies at work about

altering written aeronautical plans.  Talk to your DAR and Tech

Inspector.



Van also says alter the design at your own risk.  Until they put 5/16"

in writing, accept no employees dialog on such an issue (unless

admissible in Oregon court).



John Cox - $00.02

Do not Archive



--

_________________
Larry Rosen
#40356
N205EN (reserved)
<http>

dlm46007(at)cox.net
Guest

Posted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 7:32 am Post subject: My 2 Cents on the Landing Gear

Do you really want to shrink the bolt to get a tight fit? How will you ever 

remove gear leg in the event of accidental damage that requires it?

---

owl40188(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 7:40 am Post subject: My 2 Cents on the Landing Gear

I totally agree on this.  The 7.9 mm drill is inexpensive compared to the hardware its being used on, and its easy to locate one.  Its worth several minutes of fuel flying the RV10.

  

  

  

 Niko

 

---

deutscht(at)rhwhotels.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 8:22 am Post subject: My 2 Cents on the Landing Gear

How long should the bit or reamer be?  Is a bit or reamer more preferable?  

     

Tom Deutsch  

    

   

From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos Napoli

 Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2006 10:40 AM

 To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com

 Subject: Re: My 2 Cents on the Landing Gear  

  

         

I totally agree on this.  The 7.9 mm drill is inexpensive compared to the hardware its being used on, and its easy to locate one.  Its worth several minutes of fuel flying the RV10.  

    

   

    

   

    

   

    

Niko  

    



 ---

rick.conti(at)boeing.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 11:42 am Post subject: My 2 Cents on the Landing Gear

Bob,



I'm not sure I understand.  I've never used a reamer and just realized I

shouldn't use an air drill with a reamer.  Maybe the hand wrench from my

tap & die set.



What under size hole did you drill before using the .311" reamer?

Please explain the grinding of the shoulders at the reamer stem side to

be able to pull up and through.



Does any of this make sense without using a close tolerance bolt?



Bill suggested using a .3125 reamer with a 5/16" close tolerance bolt.

All of which sounds good.



Thank You

Rick Conti

Senior Engineering Manager

The Boeing Company

          office: 703 - 414 - 6141

blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134

--

flysrv10(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Apr 28, 2006 3:38 am Post subject: My 2 Cents on the Landing Gear

You can use a rechargable drill with the reamer.  Oil the bit well.  I

did not have to drill before the reamer.  In fact, I found it hard to

have space to drill anything from the top side.



The reamers blades have a step to transition to the shank.  Since I

used the reamer backward, I had to grind a slope to be able to pull

the reamer from the bottom of the hole through the top.



Find this reamer and if you want, call me and I will walk you through.



do not archive.

772-460-3907

Rob Kermanj



On 4/27/06, Conti, Rick <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> wrote:

[quote] 



 Bob,



 I'm not sure I understand.  I've never used a reamer and just realized I

 shouldn't use an air drill with a reamer.  Maybe the hand wrench from my

 tap & die set.



 What under size hole did you drill before using the .311" reamer?

 Please explain the grinding of the shoulders at the reamer stem side to

 be able to pull up and through.



 Does any of this make sense without using a close tolerance bolt?



 Bill suggested using a .3125 reamer with a 5/16" close tolerance bolt.

 All of which sounds good.



 Thank You

 Rick Conti

 Senior Engineering Manager

 The Boeing Company

           office: 703 - 414 - 6141

 blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134

 --

JSMcGrew(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Apr 28, 2006 6:00 am Post subject: My 2 Cents on the Landing Gear

For those of you that haven't gotten to drilling the landing gear mount  yet, I just wanted to put in my 2 cents as well. Please, don't take this the  wrong way, it's just another way to solve the same problem: I followed Van's  instructions exactly and used a .311 / 7.9 mm drill to mount the landing gear.  It was easy, I didn't have any problems, and the bolts fit great. I bought  the drill from McMaster-Carr for $8.63 including shipping.

  

 Jim

 40134

  

 In a message dated 4/28/2006 5:39:04 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  flysrv10(at)gmail.com writes:

 [quote]-->    RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Kermanj"    <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>



You can use a rechargable drill with the    reamer.  Oil the bit well.  I

did not have to drill before the    reamer.  In fact, I found it hard to

have space to drill anything from    the top side.



The reamers blades have a step to transition to the    shank.  Since I

used the reamer backward, I had to grind a slope to be    able to pull

the reamer from the bottom of the hole through the    top.



Find this reamer and if you want, call me and I will walk you    through.



do not archive.

772-460-3907

Rob Kermanj



On    4/27/06, Conti, Rick <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> wrote:

[quote] -->    RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick"    <rick.conti(at)boeing.com>



 Bob,



 I'm not    sure I understand.  I've never used a reamer and just realized I

    shouldn't use an air drill with a reamer.  Maybe the hand wrench from    my

 tap & die set.



 What under size hole did you    drill before using the .311" reamer?

 Please explain the grinding of    the shoulders at the reamer stem side to

 be able to pull up and    through.



 Does any of this make sense without using a close    tolerance bolt?



 Bill suggested using a .3125 reamer with a    5/16" close tolerance bolt.

 All of which sounds good.



    Thank You

 Rick Conti

 Senior Engineering Manager

 The    Boeing Company

           office: 703 -    414 - 6141

 blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134

    --

Tim(at)MyRV10.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Apr 28, 2006 6:22 am Post subject: My 2 Cents on the Landing Gear

Ouch, I hope we haven't reached the point where we have to say

"please don't take this the wrong way" to tell people

how you drilled something.   Jim, you're doing just great by

taking the time to find the right bit.  Thanks for completing

it by posting a source and price too!  Keep up the good posting,

and everyone.....always feel free to share your opinions.  Sure,

sometimes they'll vary, but yours is just as valuable as

anyone else's.  Even if someone's opinion was way backwards,

at least it can bring out the multitude of opposite responses

that can cause people to think.   I've had people ask me why

I did something....then say "I never thought about that" when

I gave the explanation.  That's the whole point of the list...

getting people to ask a question, and then find all the creative

ways to solve it...and pick the one that either has the proven

track record, or sometimes the innovative idea....your choice.

If it weren't for all of YOUR brains, I'd have wracked mine

even worse and probably never ended up with an airplane that

I like so much.



Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying

do not archive

JSMcGrew(at)aol.com wrote:

[quote] For those of you that haven't gotten to drilling the landing gear mount 

 yet, I just wanted to put in my 2 cents as well. Please, don't take this 

 the wrong way, it's just another way to solve the same problem: I 

 followed Van's instructions exactly and used a .311 / 7.9 mm drill to 

 mount the landing gear. It was easy, I didn't have any problems, and the 

 bolts fit great. I bought the drill from McMaster-Carr for $8.63 

 including shipping.

  

 Jim

 40134

  

 In a message dated 4/28/2006 5:39:04 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time, 

 flysrv10(at)gmail.com writes:

 

     

 

     You can use a rechargable drill with the reamer.  Oil the bit well.  I

     did not have to drill before the reamer.  In fact, I found it hard to

     have space to drill anything from the top side.

 

     The reamers blades have a step to transition to the shank.  Since I

     used the reamer backward, I had to grind a slope to be able to pull

     the reamer from the bottom of the hole through the top.

 

     Find this reamer and if you want, call me and I will walk you through.

 

     do not archive.

     772-460-3907

     Rob Kermanj

 

     On 4/27/06, Conti, Rick <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> wrote:

      > 

     <rick.conti(at)boeing.com>

      >

      > Bob,

      >

      > I'm not sure I understand.  I've never used a reamer and just

     realized I

      > shouldn't use an air drill with a reamer.  Maybe the hand wrench

     from my

      > tap & die set.

      >

      > What under size hole did you drill before using the .311" reamer?

      > Please explain the grinding of the shoulders at the reamer stem

     side to

      > be able to pull up and through.

      >

      > Does any of this make sense without using a close tolerance bolt?

      >

      > Bill suggested using a .3125 reamer with a 5/16" close tolerance

     bolt.

      > All of which sounds good.

      >

      > Thank You

      > Rick Conti

      > Senior Engineering Manager

      > The Boeing Company

      >           office: 703 - 414 - 6141

      > blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134

      >

      >

      > --

rick.conti(at)boeing.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Apr 28, 2006 6:39 am Post subject: My 2 Cents on the Landing Gear

Well said.  I agree.



DO NOT ARCHIVE



Thank You

Rick Conti

Senior Engineering Manager

The Boeing Company

          office: 703 - 414 - 6141

blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134

--

jjessen

Joined: 22 Apr 2006
Posts: 285
Location: OR

Posted: Fri Apr 28, 2006 6:56 am Post subject: My 2 Cents on the Landing Gear

Tim, nice post, BUT....



Speaking of flying RV-10's and all us poor souls still deburring away, how

about you guys giving us some encouragement by writing about your beautiful

flying machines!  Where did you go on your very first trip after you were

let out of the box?  What does it handle like in different flying

conditions?  What's the view like?  Where have you found sight line

difficulties?  How does it handle crosswind landings?  How is your panel

working out (Tim does not need to answer this; he already has) and what

would you do differently?  The list of topics is almost endless!  Common!

Give us a breadcrumb or two..., please.  I'm not going to be able to get to

OSH, so can't depend on the fireside chats.  



John Jessen

  ~328 (and pictures, too, send pictures) 



--

gommone7(at)bellsouth.net
Guest

Posted: Fri Apr 28, 2006 7:02 am Post subject: My 2 Cents on the Landing Gear

Hi,can you post the par number for mc Master regarding the .311 drill bit.

Hugo

[quote] 

 From: JSMcGrew(at)aol.com

 Date: 2006/04/28 Fri AM 09:59:31 EDT

 To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com

 Subject: Re: My 2 Cents on the Landing Gear

 For those of you that haven't gotten to drilling the landing gear mount  yet, 

 I just wanted to put in my 2 cents as well. Please, don't take this the  

 wrong way, it's just another way to solve the same problem: I followed Van's  

 instructions exactly and used a .311 / 7.9 mm drill to mount the landing gear.  It 

 was easy, I didn't have any problems, and the bolts fit great. I bought  the 

 drill from McMaster-Carr for $8.63 including shipping.

 Jim

 40134

 In a message dated 4/28/2006 5:39:04 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  

 flysrv10(at)gmail.com writes:

 You can use a rechargable drill with the  reamer.  Oil the bit well.  I

 did not have to drill before the  reamer.  In fact, I found it hard to

 have space to drill anything from  the top side.

 The reamers blades have a step to transition to the  shank.  Since I

 used the reamer backward, I had to grind a slope to be  able to pull

 the reamer from the bottom of the hole through the  top.

 Find this reamer and if you want, call me and I will walk you  through.

 do not archive.

 772-460-3907

 Rob Kermanj

 On  4/27/06, Conti, Rick <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> wrote:

 > 

 >

 > Bob,

 >

 > I'm not  sure I understand.  I've never used a reamer and just realized I

 >  shouldn't use an air drill with a reamer.  Maybe the hand wrench from  my

 > tap & die set.

 >

 > What under size hole did you  drill before using the .311" reamer?

 > Please explain the grinding of  the shoulders at the reamer stem side to

 > be able to pull up and  through.

 >

 > Does any of this make sense without using a close  tolerance bolt?

 >

 > Bill suggested using a .3125 reamer with a  5/16" close tolerance bolt.

 > All of which sounds good.

 >

 >  Thank You

 > Rick Conti

 > Senior Engineering Manager

 > The  Boeing Company

 >           office: 703 -  414 - 6141

 > blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134

 >

 >

 >  --

Tim(at)MyRV10.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Apr 28, 2006 8:55 am Post subject: My 2 Cents on the Landing Gear

Ok John, it's Friday and so I'm not too interested in continuing

to work the remaining parts of my posterior off anymore, so

I'll take time to type. 



Oh, and you really ought to get to OSH.



For my first x/c trip, being Sun-N-Fun, you all know how that

went as I posted already.  This past weekend I took another

shorter trip across the state to see Abby from Flightline so

she could see the results of her hard work, and so I could take

them for a ride.  I tried to fly at 9500' for some of the trip,

which was planned for 1:15.  I had to change between the 5500'

and 9500' level though, as I was flying into worse weather

from better, and had a cloud deck in that range that

went from broken to solid to broken, and I didn't want to

get trapped on top - unplanned.



Climbing to altitude is nice and quick in the -10, and one thing

I keep forgetting is to lead *during* the climb after 5,000'.

I noticed my EGT's dropping way off as I climbed.  Once in cruise,

I was amazed at how far I could lean it out.  On the trip to

Sun-N-Fun, I just leaned it a bit, not really using precision.

This time I leaned it to peak or very close, and then richened

it up.  I found I can get better fuel flows than before.

I have numbers written down but not with me.



I did a round trip with 3 legs, and on the return leg I tried

flying at both 4500' and 8500', trying to find a smooth ride.

I found it smoother, of course, at 8500'.  What I noticed

though in setting up my leaning, was I could keep the same

TAS at 8500', but on less fuel, so even with a couple kts

of headwind extra, it's a smoother ride on less fuel.



Last night I read a very cool little rant, and there's a

cool application available.  I'd HIGHLY suggest reading

this page:  http://www.x-plane.com/cruisealt.html



One thing I'm still squeamish on though is turbulence in

the -10.  Va is about 125 kts.  You're cruising so far

above that, that I get really "puckered" when I hit some

bumps.  The small bumps don't bother me, but it's the

memory of my big bump during transition training (Yes

John, I'm scarred for life.   )  that gets me all uptight.

I feel like if I hit a couple bumps at high speed, that

perhaps the big one is just ahead.  So I search for

smooth air as much as possible.



There are no...and I mean NO, line of sight or visibility

issues in the -10.  Period.  The view is great in most

directions other than backwards.



Randy called me a couple nights ago and we agreed on one thing

for sure...  Crosswinds in the -10 are a very easy.  The -10

has so much rudder, and it just handles crosswinds great.

I have much less aversion to 20-25Kt winds than I had before,

even if they're not straight on.  Landing the -10 hasn't

changed for me since the first flight...it's really easy.

I did drop one in at one point, but that was an oddity.  Most

landings are ones that other people don't just find

acceptable, but actually impressive, and that's not all me...

a lot of it's the plane.



As for handling, people wanting a -6/-7 handling will be

sorely disappointed, but people who want a solid plane

that's good for IFR flight will love it. Oh, when

I say disappointed, that's not to say that it isn't light

and great feeling.  It just doesn't have the roll and

ultra-light feel that those planes would.  The -10 controls

get VERY heavy at higher airspeeds.  I don't think you'd

have a very easy time rolling the -10 at 140+ Kts. Your

stick takes a LOT of force in roll at those speeds.  Pitch

is still very light.  Below 120Kts, the -10 is much more

roll-maneuverable.  Keeping in mind the wish for a stable

IFR platform, this fits my needs perfectly.  The Sundowner

though was a plane that, due to it's slower speeds,

was a solid but more roll-maneuverable feeling plane.

The -10 should be very close, but only at it's lower

speed range.



I've mentioned before the need for slower trim speeds in

cruise.  This is *kind of* hard for me to stand solidly

behind.  I have been able to get trimmed up pretty nicely

with the thing running at full trim speed.  But, just due

to the extreme quickness that you could get into a very

hard climb or descent at cruise, I still think an automatic

speed switch would be a good idea above 120 Kts or so.

It is necessary...no, not at all.  But, the one time you

have something go wrong at high speeds, like bumping

the button, you hopefully will make it though it with

no problems...it could be scary.  If nothing were to ever

go wrong though, I'd see no reason to take the time to

wire in a speed reduction.  For me, it's cheap enough so

I'll probably do it, but it's on the back burner and will

likely happen in the off season.



Back to the old Yaw damper discussions... I tried hard in the

bumps on this last trip to see if I really thought it needed

it.  I guess I'm stuck about where I am on the trim.  I

personally don't know that I'll ever add a yaw damper.

And I wouldn't maybe recommend spending the money on the servo

until you're flying already and can see for yourself.  If

you want rock solid "no-wiggles" in your tail though, it's

something I guess to consider.  I've never flown with one,

so I don't know how effective they are.  What I can say

though is that there, in turbulence, a slight tail wiggle

in the -10.  It hasn't bothered my kids so far, and at

present I don't intend to add a yaw damper myself. It's

not at all what I'd consider too awful.



Oh, and they're about 20 times more fun to fly than they

are to build, so that should give you some motivation

to finish. 



Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying

do not archive

John Jessen wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   

 

 Tim, nice post, BUT....

 

 Speaking of flying RV-10's and all us poor souls still deburring away, how

 about you guys giving us some encouragement by writing about your beautiful

 flying machines!  Where did you go on your very first trip after you were

 let out of the box?  What does it handle like in different flying

 conditions?  What's the view like?  Where have you found sight line

 difficulties?  How does it handle crosswind landings?  How is your panel

 working out (Tim does not need to answer this; he already has) and what

 would you do differently?  The list of topics is almost endless!  Common!

 Give us a breadcrumb or two..., please.  I'm not going to be able to get to

 OSH, so can't depend on the fireside chats.  

 

 John Jessen

   ~328 (and pictures, too, send pictures)

JSMcGrew(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Apr 28, 2006 8:58 pm Post subject: My 2 Cents on the Landing Gear

Part number / description below from www.mcmaster.com:

             Line      Quantity      Part        Number      Description      Unit        Price      Total        Price             Ships         1      1

Each      30565A304                  Hvy Duty Metric Hss Jobbers' Twist Drill Bit 7.9 mm Size,        114mm O'all Length, 81mm Flute Length

     $4.13      $4.13 

  

 In a message dated 4/28/2006 9:08:23 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  gommone7(at)bellsouth.net writes:

 [quote]-->    RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net>



Hi,can you    post the par number for mc Master regarding the .311 drill    bit.

Hugo

[quote] 

 From: JSMcGrew(at)aol.com

 Date: 2006/04/28    Fri AM 09:59:31 EDT

 To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com

 Subject: Re:    My 2 Cents on the Landing Gear

 

     

  

 For those of you that haven't gotten to drilling the    landing gear mount  yet, 

 I just wanted to put in my 2 cents as    well. Please, don't take this the  

 wrong way, it's just another    way to solve the same problem: I followed Van's  

 instructions    exactly and used a .311 / 7.9 mm drill to mount the landing gear.  It    

 was easy, I didn't have any problems, and the bolts fit great. I    bought  the 

 drill from McMaster-Carr for $8.63 including    shipping.

  

 Jim

 40134

  

 In a    message dated 4/28/2006 5:39:04 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  

    flysrv10(at)gmail.com writes:

 

 -->  RV10-List message    posted by: "Rob Kermanj"  <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>

 

 You    can use a rechargable drill with the  reamer.  Oil the bit    well.  I

 did not have to drill before the  reamer.  In    fact, I found it hard to

 have space to drill anything from  the    top side.

 

 The reamers blades have a step to transition to    the  shank.  Since I

 used the reamer backward, I had to    grind a slope to be  able to pull

 the reamer from the bottom of    the hole through the  top.

 

 Find this reamer and if you    want, call me and I will walk you  through.

 

 do not    archive.

 772-460-3907

 Rob Kermanj

 

 On     4/27/06, Conti, Rick <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> wrote:

 >    -->  RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick"     <rick.conti(at)boeing.com>

 >

 > Bob,

    >

 > I'm not  sure I understand.  I've never used a    reamer and just realized I

 >  shouldn't use an air drill with    a reamer.  Maybe the hand wrench from  my

 > tap & die    set.

 >

 > What under size hole did you  drill before    using the .311" reamer?

 > Please explain the grinding of  the    shoulders at the reamer stem side to

 > be able to pull up and     through.

 >

 > Does any of this make sense without using a    close  tolerance bolt?

 >

 > Bill suggested using a    .3125 reamer with a  5/16" close tolerance bolt.

 > All of    which sounds good.

 >

 >  Thank You

 > Rick    Conti

 > Senior Engineering Manager

 > The  Boeing    Company

 >           office: 703    -  414 - 6141

 > blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134

    >

 >

 >  --

Bill Schlatterer

Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 195

Posted: Sat Apr 29, 2006 7:03 am Post subject: My 2 Cents on the Landing Gear

Rick, just a follow up.  The only mission here is to get a uniform hole with

no play or as little play as possible.  A 5/16 bolt is .3125 so a .3111

reamer will make any 5/16 bolt a snug fit.  ( 3125-3111 = .0014) A 3125

reamer with a close tolerance bolt should also be fine.  I used the straight

fluted reamer in an electric hand drill turning fairly slowly with some

Bolube for lubricant and it was way less trouble than I ever imagined.  I

spent way more time agonizing than doing.  It went like butter.



Many folks recommend putting the "shank" of the reamer through the hole fist

and then attaching the drill and pulling the reamer back through.  That's

because the shoulder on the back of the reamer has a little slope to it and

the front does not.  I did not find it to be a problem just using it like a

drill.  Going directly to a 3125 did not require "pre-drilling" so I would

think starting with a 3111 would not either.



The only reason to use a reamer instead of a drill is that drills leave a

somewhat triangular hole instead of a truly round hole.  The round hole with

a close tolerance bolt or slightly oversize will obviously have more bearing

surface in the reamed hole than in the drilled hole.  



Many folks have just drilled them and it seems to work fine so I would think

that any combination of the reamer options would be fine.  First best option

is the 3111 and then 5/16 reamer 3125 and a CT bolt.



My .02



Bill S

7a



--

rick.conti(at)boeing.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Apr 30, 2006 2:07 pm Post subject: My 2 Cents on the Landing Gear

All of this sounds good to me.  Thanks!!



DO NOT ARCHIVE



Thank You

Rick Conti

Senior Engineering Manager

The Boeing Company

          office: 703 - 414 - 6141

blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134

--

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