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		chris Sinfield
 
 
  Joined: 28 Nov 2006 Posts: 270 Location: Sydney Australia
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				 Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 3:38 am    Post subject: dim able strip LED lighting | 
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				Hi all 
 I was going to use the new Dim-able LED strip lighting for under the Inst combing for my NVFR aircraft
 
 they come in red or blue. never really used blue before ??
 
 Anyone used these yet?? do the dimmers come with the strip  LED's or do you have to buy them separately.
 Chris
 
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		mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.co Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 6:01 am    Post subject: dim able strip LED lighting | 
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  	  | Quote: | 	 		   they come in red or blue. never really used blue before ??
  Chris
 
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  Chris,
   
    Irrespective of the different colors of LEDs, you have to keep in mind
  specifically what you are using the LED for.
   
    Blue panel LEDs may look "cool" but they are NOT appropriate for use 
  as a night lighting.  Blue light is a shorter wavelength than red, and this
  aspect does not work as well for rapidly adjusting light/dark conditions
  as red.
   
    Red light has a longer wavelength than blue, and this phenomenon allows 
  the human eye to adjust quicker from a dark environment to a red lit 
  environment than blue lighting.
   
    This is the reason aircraft cockpit lighting is red.  When you look outside at
  night while flying, and then look back inside at the instruments, the red lit
  instruments don't mess up your vision (light receptors) as much as any other 
  color wavelength will.
   
  Mike Welch
  		 	   		    [quote][b]
 
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		sprocket(at)vx-aviation.c Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 7:52 am    Post subject: dim able strip LED lighting | 
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				Here's an interesting article http://stlplaces.com/night_vision_red_myth/.
   
  In my cockpit, I only use low-level white dimmable  lighting for the express purpose of reading charts at night.  Charts  require white light in order to see all of the colors.  When not reading  charts, all of the modern instruments have their own back-lights, which are kept  dim.  Looks like red flood lighting is useful for general night  lighting.
   
  Vern 
   
 
   From: Mike Welch (mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com) 
  Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 6:17 AM
  To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com (aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com)  
  Subject: RE: dim able strip LED  lighting
  
 
  
  	  | Quote: | 	 		   they come in red or blue. never really used blue  before ??
  Chris
 
 | 	  
 Chris,
  
   Irrespective of the  different colors of LEDs, you have to keep in mind
 specifically what you are  using the LED for.
  
   Blue panel LEDs may look "cool" but they  are NOT appropriate for use 
 as a night lighting.  Blue light is a  shorter wavelength than red, and this
 aspect does not work as well for  rapidly adjusting light/dark conditions
 as red.
  
   Red light  has a longer wavelength than blue, and this phenomenon allows 
 the human eye  to adjust quicker from a dark environment to a red lit 
 environment than blue  lighting.
  
   This is the reason aircraft cockpit lighting is  red.  When you look outside at
 night while flying, and then look back  inside at the instruments, the red lit
 instruments don't mess up your vision  (light receptors) as much as any other 
 color wavelength  will.
  
 Mike Welch
 
    [quote][b]
 
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		RV7ASask
 
 
  Joined: 25 Jan 2006 Posts: 36
 
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				 Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 8:06 am    Post subject: Re: dim able strip LED lighting | 
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				I have installed a strip of white dimable LEDs above my switches. They work great! The strip happens to be 3/8 in wide and fit perfectly into an aluminum channel integrated at the bottom of the panel. I would agree with Vern. Stick with white.  The dimmer is available from Spruce.
 
 http://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/elpages/pwmDimmer.php
 
 David
 
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		tim2542(at)sbcglobal.net Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 8:45 am    Post subject: dim able strip LED lighting | 
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				According  Stein-air’s web site Blue is now the standard color on commercial and military aircraft….FWIW  
 Tim Andres  
      
  (rnbraud(at)yahoo.com)   
         
   
 From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Welch
  Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 6:17 AM
  To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
  Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: dim able strip LED lighting  
   
    
  
  > they come in red or blue. never really used blue before ??
  > Chris
  
  Chris,
   
    Irrespective of the different colors of LEDs, you have to keep in mind
  specifically what you are using the LED for.
   
    Blue panel LEDs may look "cool" but they are NOT appropriate for use 
  as a night lighting.  Blue light is a shorter wavelength than red, and this
  aspect does not work as well for rapidly adjusting light/dark conditions
  as red.
   
    Red light has a longer wavelength than blue, and this phenomenon allows 
  the human eye to adjust quicker from a dark environment to a red lit 
  environment than blue lighting.
   
    This is the reason aircraft cockpit lighting is red.  When you look outside at
  night while flying, and then look back inside at the instruments, the red lit
  instruments don't mess up your vision (light receptors) as much as any other 
  color wavelength will.
   
  Mike Welch   	  | Quote: | 	 		  |   http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List  | 	  0123456789
      No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com  271.1.1/3117 - Release Date: 09/05/10 23:35:00  [quote][b]
 
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		riggs_la(at)yahoo.com Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 12:34 pm    Post subject: dim able strip LED lighting | 
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				White is not good for your night vision.  The military has found that a
 blue-green light is the best in night operations.
 
 Lynn
 
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		gerry.vandyk(at)shaw.ca Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 3:46 pm    Post subject: dim able strip LED lighting | 
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				That is rather curious.  Amateur astronomers use red flashlights at night
 when looking at their charts, the reason being red light doesn't cause the
 eye's iris to close, which kills dark adapted vision.  When observing
 objects through larger telescopes one can occasionally pick up a blue-green
 color in subjects like the Ring Nebula (M57)the reason being the color
 receptors in the retina pick up the middle of the visible spectrum (520
 nanometer wavelength)at the lowest light levels.  I have a suspicion that
 this study determined that blue-green is the easiest to see, which is
 different than the best color for preserving night vision.
 
 http://www.oneminuteastronomer.com/astro-course-day-5/
 
 I would suggest doing some research into WWII night fighters.  For one, the
 P-61 Black Widow used red cockpit lighting.  Red allows you to look at the
 instruments, then look out the window without having to wait for your eyes
 to re-adapt to the darkness.
 
 Gerry
 
 --
 
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		mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.co Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 4:36 pm    Post subject: dim able strip LED lighting | 
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  	  | Quote: | 	 		   That is rather curious. Amateur astronomers use red flashlights at night
  when looking at their charts, the reason being red light doesn't cause the
  eye's iris to close, which kills dark adapted vision. 
  > Red allows you to look at the
 | 	  
  	  | Quote: | 	 		   instruments, then look out the window without having to wait for your eyes
  to re-adapt to the darkness.
  
  Gerry
 
 | 	  
  Gerry,
   
    This tendency of the red light not affecting the iris' closing, was what I getting at.
  You offered more detail than me, and you're correct.  I think that this is also why darkrooms 
  for developing film are lit with red lights.
   
    My Cessna(s) had red cockpit lighting.  Like I said initially, you have to determine the
  primary purpose of the LED lighting.  If you want to see things inside the cockpit, and
  not screw up your night vision, use red.  If you want to be able to see something very
  well in the dark, like an instrument, use blue/green lighting (and you can turn down the 
  brightness a lot).
   
  Mike Welch
   
   
  		 	   		    [quote][b]
 
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		n8zg(at)ATT.NET Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 5:59 pm    Post subject: dim able strip LED lighting | 
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				Ummm… No.  
    
 Darkroom lamps  are red because black & white photo paper will tolerate low levels of red light – film will not tolerate ANY light.  I’ll suggest that red light in the cockpit descended from the photo world, where folks had been working in very low light levels for many decades before there were lights in airplanes…  
    
 Working in a darkroom will give you a completely different perspective on the red-light/night-blind transition.  We go from low-intensity red ambient to low intensity white (enlarger lamp on to set-up, crop the print, then starring into the lamp with a mirror to focus the lens) to room light and back to low-intensity red in a matter of seconds.  Given that experience, I’ve never given much credence to the night-vision and red-light argument.  Unless I’m slapped right in the face with a LOT of light that dazzles the retinas (close, exceptionally bright landing lights?), I find I’m very tolerant of cockpit light levels, and the transition from inside reading charts and gauges to outside looking at stars and horizons is uneventful.  
    
 Neal  
 RV-7 N8ZG (all the loose ends)  
 CherokeeJet N9586J  
    
 ===============    
    
 I think that this is also why darkrooms for developing film are lit with red lights.
    
  Mike Welch
  
    [quote] [b]
 
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		email(at)jaredyates.com Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 6:15 pm    Post subject: dim able strip LED lighting | 
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				This is an interesting dimmer.  Does it have the noise problems that Bob was writing about?
 
 On Mon, Sep 6, 2010 at 12:06 PM, RV7ASask <rv7alamb(at)sasktel.net (rv7alamb(at)sasktel.net)> wrote:
  [quote]--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "RV7ASask" <rv7alamb(at)sasktel.net (rv7alamb(at)sasktel.net)>
   
  I have installed a strip of white dimable LEDs above my switches. They work great! The strip happens to be 3/8 in wide and fit perfectly into an aluminum channel integrated at the bottom of the panel. I would agree with Vern. Stick with white.  The dimmer is available from Spruce.
   
  http://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/elpages/pwmDimmer.php
  
  David
  
  
  
  
  Read this topic online here:
  
  http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=311539#311539
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
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  le, List Admin.
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		riggs_la(at)yahoo.com Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 6:37 pm    Post subject: dim able strip LED lighting | 
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				I have flown with both, I am a retired Army pilot, and can tell you that the
 blue-green lighting has less of an impact on night vision than red and is
 easier to read charts with.  At lease the blue-green the Army used.
 
 Lynn
 
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		RV7ASask
 
 
  Joined: 25 Jan 2006 Posts: 36
 
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				 Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 7:04 pm    Post subject: Re: dim able strip LED lighting | 
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				>>This is an interesting dimmer. �Does it have the noise problems that Bob was writing about?
 
 I am just finishing installing the radios so I can't tell you about noise problems at this time. More to follow.
 
 Weighing in on the color of the light. I said earlier 'Stick with White.' I think both Mr Boeing and Mr Airbus have opted for white in the cockpit and I think they got it right.
 
 David
 
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		rickofudall
 
  
  Joined: 19 Sep 2009 Posts: 1392 Location: Udall, KS, USA
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				 Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 5:41 am    Post subject: dim able strip LED lighting | 
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				Using the example of Boeing and Airbus for cockpit lighting in a good example of not examining the application before making a decision, IMHO. When was the last time an airline crew really needed to have good night vision for looking outside the cockpit? Unless you plan on flying on instruments from takeoff to touchdown, or very nearly, is this the wise choice? Even using the military, particularly what the helicopter cockpits use, is questionable since their decision may have been driven as much by compatibility with night vision equipment as the human eye.
 Just exactly how much improvement is blue/green over red? Does the difference amount to anything more that picking the fly poop from the pepper, or are we dealing with an unquantifiable "coolness factor"?
  
 
 Rick Girard
 
 On Mon, Sep 6, 2010 at 10:04 PM, RV7ASask <rv7alamb(at)sasktel.net (rv7alamb(at)sasktel.net)> wrote:
  	  | Quote: | 	 		   --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "RV7ASask" <rv7alamb(at)sasktel.net (rv7alamb(at)sasktel.net)>
  
  >>This is an interesting dimmer. �Does it have the noise problems that Bob was writing about?
  
  I am just finishing installing the radios so I can't tell you about noise problems at this time. More to follow.
  
  Weighing in on the color of the light. I said earlier 'Stick with White.' I think both Mr Boeing and Mr Airbus have opted for white in the cockpit and I think they got it right.
  
  David
  
  
  
  
  Read this topic online here:
  
  http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=311626#311626
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
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 Zulu Delta
 Kolb Mk IIIC
 582 Gray head
 4.00 C gearbox
 3 blade WD
 Thanks, Homer GBYM
 It is not bigotry to be certain we are right; but it is bigotry to be unable to imagine how we might possibly have gone wrong.
   - G.K. Chesterton
 
  
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		blackoaks(at)gmail.com Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 6:55 am    Post subject: dim able strip LED lighting | 
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				And remember when the red cockpit lighting made all of the fan markers and LF ranges mysteriously disappear from our charts on night flights!
 
 On Mon, Sep 6, 2010 at 7:25 PM, Lynn Riggs <riggs_la(at)yahoo.com (riggs_la(at)yahoo.com)> wrote:
  [quote]--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Lynn Riggs" <riggs_la(at)yahoo.com (riggs_la(at)yahoo.com)>
   
  
 I have flown with both, I am a retired Army pilot, and can tell you that the
  blue-green lighting has less of an impact on night vision than red and is
  easier to read charts with.  At lease the blue-green the Army used.
  
  Lynn
  
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		jimw_btg(at)earthlink.net Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 6:55 am    Post subject: dim able strip LED lighting | 
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				Jim Wickert here, I have been following this thread and have the following to put up for added fodder.  We have a Government Marine contract which we are working on that has a section for Night Illumination of Instrumentation and we are doing the scope research now. Below is some interesting information and food for thought.  At this time our general consensus is Soft White Flood of panels?  We have not released our findings to our customer however.  Take care sorry for the amount of text but this is only a snip of the 13 page findings.    
    
 FLITELite Light Color, Intensity & Night Vision:  
 Pilots have a choice of FLITELite colors - NVIS White (more information on NVIS White), Soft White that is NVIS friendly, Green, Red and Blue. The best light choice is NVIS White, followed by soft white, for a light that will protect your central night vision and provide full spectrum light. Green and Blue will protect central night vision as well, but blues and greens will disappear with this color of light - something for a pilot to consider prior to use. Red is also available, which will protect peripheral night vision, but not central vision as well as the soft white, blue and green. Red's on charts will also not be visible with red light, another consideration for the pilot to consider when making a color choice.   
 The eyes are comprised of Rods and Cones. We hear people talk about Rods being for night vision, and Cones for day vision, and while they both have their special attributes, it would be better to classify them in the aviation environment at Peripheral (Rods) and Central (Cones) vision. Both rods and cones have a day and night mode, and they both react to light at different rates, and to have sensitivity to different light frequencies.  
 Rods surround the periphery of the eye and are used for peripheral vision, and night vision. They do not see color, and do not detect motion. Rods only provide non-color vision at an acuity of 20/200. Rods are most susceptible to blue light. You never read, or scan your instruments with your Rods - or your peripheral vision - think about it. You are reading this article with your central vision - your cones.   
 Cones are used for color, central vision, with visual acuity of 20/20. The cones have a focal width of approximately 20 to 30 degrees. Cones are most susceptible to red light.  
 Cones are used when you read, day or night. During the day we read with our cones - during the night we need a light to read - obvious, but it shatters the red light myth in the aviation cockpit.  
 [img]cid:image001.gif(at)01CB4E6E.14CD7790[/img]  
 So the question is what is the best light that will provide your eyes, and brain with the best light for reading? The answer is a dim white light. Look inside any of the new jets, and you will find that the lighting is white. Military cockpits specify NVIS White. NVIS White appears to have a green tint, but it is a full spectrum light. More on NVIS Compatibility   
 FLITELite is set to a 25 degree field of view to maximize the physiology of the pilot’s eye. But to preserve night vision the intensity of the light is what matters. By using a full spectrum white light, the full spectrum light and low reflection reduces the amount of light needed. The 25 degree field is critical to keep the light out of our peripheral vision so we can look for traffic, and gauge height when we are making that perfect night landing.   
 Under red light, magenta symbols disappear on charts, and during electrical failures, red markings on instruments and gauges are unreadable. Blue light will make Blue 100LL fuel disappear.   
 Unaided night vision even now in the 21st century is still the subject of some controversy.  
 For those just looking for an executive answer as to what supplemental lighting should be used to reduced the recovery time back to night vision (dark adapted or scotopic) here it is: a fully dimmable white light! This of course is a very incomplete answer but so are the answers red or blue-green and you should know why.  
 Let’s start with red, specifically what I will call the red light myth.  
 I believe the myth started in the photographic darkroom.  
 Until about 1906 most photosensitive material (plate, film, and paper) was not very sensitive to red.  Some of these orthochromatic materials are still used. This allowed these materials to be dealt with for a short time under a relative bright red light because the human eye can see red if the level is bright enough. The fact that L.E.D.s (having a number of advantages over other light sources) were economically only available in red for some time has also help to perpetuate this myth.  
 As more research about the eye was done it was found that the structure responsible for very low light vision, the rods, were also not very sensitive to red.  
 It was assumed then that like film you could use red light, which is seen by the red sensitive cones (there are also blue and green sensitive cones to give color vision), without affecting the rods.  
 It takes a while for true night vision to be recovered.  About 10 minutes for 10%, 30-45 minutes for 80%, the rest may take hours, days, or a week. The issue is the chemical in the eye, rhodopsin - commonly called visual purple, is broken down quickly by light.  The main issue then is intensity; color is only an issue because the rods (responsible for night vision) are most sensitive at a particular color. That color is a blue-green (507nm) similar to traffic light green (which is this color for a entirely different reason). It would seem that using the lowest brightness (using this color) additional light needed for a task is the best bet to retain this dark adaptation because it allows rods to function at their best.  
 Unfortunately there are a number of drawbacks using only night vision.  
 Among these are:     - The inability to distinguish colors.   
 - No detail can be seen (about the same as 20/200      vision in daylight).   
 - That nothing can be seen directly in front of the      eyes (no rods in the center of the retina), you must learn to look about      15-20° off center.   
 - Only motion can be detected well, therefore you      may have to learn to move your eyes to detect something that doesn't move.        
 - Objects that aren't moving appear to move      (autokinesis).  This has probably led to a number of plane crashes.  
    
 If you need to see directly in front of you or see detail you need red.  Like many myths the red light myth has some basis in fact.  The red truth?  
 Why red?  The center 1.5% of your retina (the fovea) which provides you with most detailed vision is packed almost exclusively with red sensitive cones.  
 This is the same area that has no rods and is responsible for the night blind spot.  There are fewer total green sensitive cones than red.  The number of blue sensitive cones is very small compared to green and red.  
 Which is just as well since the lens in the human eye cannot focus red and blue at the same time.  And using green really only changes perceived brightness because of the way the signals are processed in our neural pathways. Unlike a digital camera, more pixels, in this case, doesn't give us more detail.  
                                                     <![endif]--><![if !vml]>[img]cid:image002.gif(at)01CB4E6E.8A036B00[/img]<![endif]>Chart showing the distribution of rods vs cones.  Note the absence of rods in the center and the absence of both about 15° away from the the center toward the nose where the optic nerve passes.  
 At first glance the tendency would be to pick the hue of red at which we are most sensitive (566nm) which would make sense except for the real reason: we don't want to involve the rods.  The reason is the rods share the neural pathways with the cones so that you have this fuzzy image overriding the detailed one.  This effect disappears at slightly higher mesopic levels which is why white is a good choice for most tasks.  Many people look at the numbers for sensitivity for rods and cones and forget that in most cases the numbers have been adjusted so that rod peek sensitive matches cone peak.  Rods are in fact sensitive well into the infrared (not too useful except to know that light you can barely sense can adversely impact your night vision).  The key then is finding a hue that we can have at a high enough intensity that we can see the detail we need without activating our rods to the point where they obscure that detail.  Most source say this should be nothing shorter than 650nm.  Experimentation shows a L.E.D. with a peek around 700nm seems to work best (perceived as a deep red).  Note that red may be fatiguing to the eyes.  
 Conclusions:     - No matter what your color choice it must be fully      adjustable for intensity.   
 - If you need the fastest dark adaptation recovery      and can adjust to the limitations, or everyone in your group is using      night vision equipment then blue-green.   
 - If you must see detail (reading a star chart, or      instrument settings) and can lose peripheral vision (see note 1),      then a very long wavelength red at a very low level.  Red really only      has an advantage at very low levels (were the night blind spot is very      obvious).   
 - A general walking around light so that you don't      trip over the tripod, knock over equipment or bump into people, then      blue-green with enough red added to get rid of the night blind spot, or      maybe just use white.  Blue-green at higher brightness also works      very well and at a lower intensity than white.   
 - If you need to see color and detail then likely      the best choice is the dimmest white light for the shortest amount of      time.   
 - If you are in the military you must follow their      rules; hopefully they will have a good course in unassisted night vision.   
 - If you are a pilot and say you only fly in the      day, you should be aware of the problems of night vision and should      consider a basic (ground) course in night flying.   
 - If you wonder why no one else has drawn these      conclusions look at the dashboard of most cars.  The markings are large,      the pointers are large and an orange-red (a compromise, for certain      "color blind" persons) and at night it is edge lit with      blue-green filtered fully intensity adjustable light.  
    
 For Best night vision:    - Be sure you are getting enough vitamin A or its precursor      beta-carotene in your diet (needed for the visual purple).   
 - Green leafy stuff is best followed by vegetables      that have an orange color.  Yes that includes carrots but spinach or      dark leaf lettuce are better.  It is possible to get too much vitamin      A especially as a supplement.   
 - Keep up your general health.  Smoking is      also very bad for night vision, as are most illegal drugs and some      prescription drugs.   
 - Keep you blood sugar level as even as      possible.  No meal skipping.  Six small meals are better than      three large meals.  For carbohydrates favor starches (potatoes, rice,      and bread) over simple sugars (sweets, alcohol).   
 - Use dark neutral gray sunglasses, that pass no      more that 15% in full sun, when outside during the day.  
    
 True night blindness is rare.  Most of what people call night blindness is either a lack of vitamin A in the diet or a failure to understand the night blind spot.  
 Cataracts, even minor ones, increase the effects of glare at night and the eye's lens does yellow and passes less light as we age which may contribute to what some call night blindness.  
 Note:  The red filtered light at the intensity most people use is likely decreasing night vision much more than a properly dimmed white or blue-green light would!  
 Note:  There are day blind spots also but are in a different position in each eye so are less of a problem.  
 Note:  Blue-green (also called cyan, turquoise, teal and other names) as used here is NOT the combination of two colors but is a single particular hue.  I use the most common name for that hue.  
            
 Mil-STD 1472F   5.8.2.2 (table XVI) display lighting             
           
 Brightness of   markings         
               
 Condition of use         
 Lighting Technique *         
 cd/m2         
 foot-lamberts         
 Brightness Adjustment             
               
 Indicator reading, dark adaptation necessary         
 Red flood, indirect, or both, with operator choice         
 0.07-0.35         
 (0.02-0.1)         
 Continuous throughout range             
               
 Indicator reading, dark adaptation not necessary but   desirable         
 Red or low-color-temperature white flood, indirect, or   both, with operator choice         
 0.07-3.5†         
 (0.02-1.0)         
 Continuous throughout range             
               
 Indicator reading, dark adaptation not necessary         
 White flood         
 3.5-70         
 (1-20)         
 Fixed or continuous             
               
 Panel monitoring, dark adaptation necessary         
 Red edge lighting, red or white flood, or both, with   operator choice         
 0.07-3.5         
 (0.02-1.0)         
 Continuous throughout range             
               
 Panel monitoring, dark adaptation not necessary         
 White flood         
 35-70         
 (10-20)         
 Fixed or continuous             
               
 Possible exposure to bright flashes, restricted daylight         
 White flood         
 35-70         
 (10-20)         
 Fixed             
               
 Chart reading, dark adaptation necessary         
 Red or white flood with operator choice         
 0.35-3.50         
 (0.1-1.0)         
 Continuous throughout range             
               
 Chart reading, dark adaptation not necessary         
 White flood         
 17-70         
 (5-20)         
 Fixed or continuous             
  
                  
 * Where detection of ground vehicles or other protected   assets by image intensifier night vision devices must be minimized,   blue-green light (incandescent filament through a filter which passes only   wave lengths shorter than 600 nm) should be used in lieu of red light.             
               
 † Possible error in original, read as: 0.07-0.35, likely   occurred when converted to metric.            
   
 This is intended only as an overview; no warranty of this information is expressed or implied      
   
 [Update 17 Nov 2003] I find new myths are springing up.  Such as blue-green L.E.D.s are emitting two colors of light.  This is a mis-understanding of the color name and that this is the most accepted name for this one color.  Another is that blue improves night vision.  While at somewhat higher levels it, of course, is stimulating the rods.  It is not an optimum color.  Another long standing myth is that human visual perception is based on three colors when it is really based on four.  The rods are usually ignored because many people believe, wrongly, that at the brightness at which we perceive color the rods are no longer providing our brains with any information. In fact the perception of brightness is highly influenced by the rods well into the photopic (bright light) range of vision.  Fluorescent lamp manufacturers have used this knowledge for a long time.  "Cool White" lamps have an additional amount of green phosphor added to make us "see" them as being brighter!  Of course the whole subject of color vision and the variances thereof (wrongly called "color blindness") will require a number of new pages even in synopsis form. 
  A point I forgot to cover is that to help preserve night vision in one eye the other may be closed or covered if you know you are about to be exposed to a brighter light, such as from a oncoming vehicle.  For normal observation both eyes should be kept open.  If it is difficult to concentrate on the desired image the eye not being used may be covered but not closed.  Closing affects focus and possibly acuity. 
  
  [Update 14 Dec 2003] A very important point barely mentioned in the original is that human peripheral vision is almost completely rod based!  The implication then is that we cannot see color at the edges of our vision.  If you think we can, try this simple experiment.  You will need a small assortment of color cards (try sheets of construction paper) and someone to assist you.  Sit looking straight ahead while you’re assistant, about 6 to 10 feet away, slowly moves a random color card into the margin of your vision.  Now, while still looking straight ahead, what color is the card? 
  
  This is the second most important factor that has been ignored in the design of outdoor lighting, the first being glare!  However this study (in pdf), at the U. S. Dept. of Transportation, is a subjective study of blue tinted headlamps.
  
  [Update 23 Jan 2004] A few random notes to be better integrated into this document later.
  Luminances are approximate and will vary with the individual and conditions.
  Vision luminance rage 1 * 10-6 to 1 * 106 cd/M2
  Rods luminance rage 1 * 10-6 to 1 * 103 cd/M2 (may still play a roll above this range)
  Cones luminance rage 1 * 10-3 to 1 * 106 cd/M2
  Explain "Purinke shift"
  20/20 vision is the ability to resolve 1 minute of arc at 20 feet.
  Discuss Ricco's Law.
  Discuss afterimages.  
 LITELite NVIS Compatibility   
 MIL-STD-3009 was developed by the Department of Defense in February 2001 and superceded MIL-L-85762A. It specifies that NVIS White for crew cockpit and utility lighting. NVIS Green A is grand fathered into the cockpit for certain applications, but not for new applications.   
 The chromacity of NVIS White makes it a full spectrum light even though is appears to have a green tint. Visible light can be split into the three primary colors, red, green and blue. The eye needs two primary colors to see 'white'. NVIS White, in simple terms is blue range through the green range. NVIS goggles filters allow a thin band of green light though the lens - so that users can see heads up displays and other required applications through the goggles.  
 The level of light with respect to the chromacity is important due to this leak (filter) in the goggles. Other manufacturers claim to be the 'only authorized' lights produced since they meet a request for proposal standard. These claims are false - they have never tested FLITELite products how could they know? FLITELite meets and exceeds non-binding RFP standards, AND meets the modern, more stringent MIL-STD-3009, which is a binding requirement specified by the military.  
 General Aviation pilots can benefit from this technology. This light spectrum and intensity is perfect for general night vision use as well.   
 Read MIL-STD-3009 here.   
 [img]cid:image003.jpg(at)01CB4E70.549CD8A0[/img]  
 [img]cid:image004.jpg(at)01CB4E70.549CD8A0[/img]  
 FLITELite minimizes the crossover zone by using a special combination of LED's and Filter material. The filter material ensures that the light greater than 600 nm is not transmitted.   
 [img]cid:image005.jpg(at)01CB4E70.549CD8A0[/img]  
    
    
 Jim Wickert  
 Vision #159 “Vision some will have some will not”  
 Tel 920-467-0219  
 Cell 920-912-1014  
      
 From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Girard
  Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 8:35 AM
  To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
  Subject: Re: Re: dim able strip LED lighting  
   
    
 Using the example of Boeing and Airbus for cockpit lighting in a good example of not examining the application before making a decision, IMHO. When was the last time an airline crew really needed to have good night vision for looking outside the cockpit? Unless you plan on flying on instruments from takeoff to touchdown, or very nearly, is this the wise choice?    
 Even using the military, particularly what the helicopter cockpits use, is questionable since their decision may have been driven as much by compatibility with night vision equipment as the human eye.  
     
 Just exactly how much improvement is blue/green over red? Does the difference amount to anything more that picking the fly poop from the pepper, or are we dealing with an unquantifiable "coolness factor"?  
     
    
     
 Rick Girard    
 On Mon, Sep 6, 2010 at 10:04 PM, RV7ASask <rv7alamb(at)sasktel.net (rv7alamb(at)sasktel.net)> wrote:  
 --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "RV7ASask" <rv7alamb(at)sasktel.net (rv7alamb(at)sasktel.net)>
  
  >>This is an interesting dimmer. �Does it have the noise problems that Bob was writing about?
  
  I am just finishing installing the radios so I can't tell you about noise problems at this time. More to follow.
  
  Weighing in on the color of the light. I said earlier 'Stick with White.' I think both Mr Boeing and Mr Airbus have opted for white in the cockpit and I think they got it right.
  
  David
  
  
  
  
  Read this topic online here:
  
  http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=311626#311626
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
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		riggs_la(at)yahoo.com Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 6:57 am    Post subject: dim able strip LED lighting | 
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				Your point with the white light in the Airbus is quite valid.  As to the NVG compatibility, when flying with NVG’s the cockpit lighting is turndown so low you cannot read your instrument without using the NVG’s and color does not make much difference.  The Army was looking for a different lighting in the cockpit because the red lighting gave off an IR signature which is not good.  They found that the blue-green light was preferred buy their pilots, especially the older pilots,  and did not give off an IR signature.  I have over 600 hours of flight time at night and a lot of that flying low level or terrain flight in VFR conditions with about 60 hours using the blue-green lighting which I thought to be much better than the red lighting.  I would not use white lighting in the cockpit for night VFR flight.  The problem I have found is the blue-green cockpit lighting is not available.  
    
 Lynn  
    
    
 From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Girard
  Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 8:35 AM
  To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
  Subject: Re: Re: dim able strip LED lighting  
    
 Using the example of Boeing and Airbus for cockpit lighting in a good example of not examining the application before making a decision, IMHO. When was the last time an airline crew really needed to have good night vision for looking outside the cockpit? Unless you plan on flying on instruments from takeoff to touchdown, or very nearly, is this the wise choice?    
 Even using the military, particularly what the helicopter cockpits use, is questionable since their decision may have been driven as much by compatibility with night vision equipment as the human eye.  
     
 Just exactly how much improvement is blue/green over red? Does the difference amount to anything more that picking the fly poop from the pepper, or are we dealing with an unquantifiable "coolness factor"?  
     
    
     
 Rick Girard    
 On Mon, Sep 6, 2010 at 10:04 PM, RV7ASask <rv7alamb(at)sasktel.net (rv7alamb(at)sasktel.net)> wrote:  
 --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "RV7ASask" <rv7alamb(at)sasktel.net (rv7alamb(at)sasktel.net)>
  
  >>This is an interesting dimmer. �Does it have the noise problems that Bob was writing about?
  
  I am just finishing installing the radios so I can't tell you about noise problems at this time. More to follow.
  
  Weighing in on the color of the light. I said earlier 'Stick with White.' I think both Mr Boeing and Mr Airbus have opted for white in the cockpit and I think they got it right.
  
  David
  
  
  
    
   
   [quote] [b]
 
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		AV8ORJWC
 
 
  Joined: 13 Jul 2006 Posts: 1149 Location: Aurora, Oregon "Home of VANS"
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				 Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 8:06 am    Post subject: dim able strip LED lighting | 
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				Excellent research material.  I work on Part 121 Airliners and your below post seems consistent with what is being done up in their cockpits (Flight decks).  My darkroom days are way in the past and images of the damage of red light left too long on either film or paper are still remembered as damaging.
   
  Being able to dim the intensity and use of the most pleasing hue seem important to me.  Thank You.  Hope your Marine contract serves you well.
   
 
   John Cox
   
  do not archive
 
  
   From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Jim Wickert
 Sent: Tue 9/7/2010 7:51 AM
 To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
 Subject: RE: Re: dim able strip LED lighting
    
 Jim Wickert here, I have been following this thread and have the following to put up for added fodder.  We have a Government Marine contract which we are working on that has a section for Night Illumination of Instrumentation and we are doing the scope research now. Below is some interesting information and food for thought.  At this time our general consensus is Soft White Flood of panels?  We have not released our findings to our customer however.  Take care sorry for the amount of text but this is only a snip of the 13 page findings.   
   
 FLITELite Light Color, Intensity & Night Vision: 
 Pilots have a choice of FLITELite colors - NVIS White (more information on NVIS White), Soft White that is NVIS friendly, Green, Red and Blue. The best light choice is NVIS White, followed by soft white, for a light that will protect your central night vision and provide full spectrum light. Green and Blue will protect central night vision as well, but blues and greens will disappear with this color of light - something for a pilot to consider prior to use. Red is also available, which will protect peripheral night vision, but not central vision as well as the soft white, blue and green. Red's on charts will also not be visible with red light, another consideration for the pilot to consider when making a color choice.  
 The eyes are comprised of Rods and Cones. We hear people talk about Rods being for night vision, and Cones for day vision, and while they both have their special attributes, it would be better to classify them in the aviation environment at Peripheral (Rods) and Central (Cones) vision. Both rods and cones have a day and night mode, and they both react to light at different rates, and to have sensitivity to different light frequencies. 
 Rods surround the periphery of the eye and are used for peripheral vision, and night vision. They do not see color, and do not detect motion. Rods only provide non-color vision at an acuity of 20/200. Rods are most susceptible to blue light. You never read, or scan your instruments with your Rods - or your peripheral vision - think about it. You are reading this article with your central vision - your cones.  
 Cones are used for color, central vision, with visual acuity of 20/20. The cones have a focal width of approximately 20 to 30 degrees. Cones are most susceptible to red light. 
 Cones are used when you read, day or night. During the day we read with our cones - during the night we need a light to read - obvious, but it shatters the red light myth in the aviation cockpit. 
 [img]image001.gif[/img] 
 So the question is what is the best light that will provide your eyes, and brain with the best light for reading? The answer is a dim white light. Look inside any of the new jets, and you will find that the lighting is white. Military cockpits specify NVIS White. NVIS White appears to have a green tint, but it is a full spectrum light. More on NVIS Compatibility  
 FLITELite is set to a 25 degree field of view to maximize the physiology of the pilot’s eye. But to preserve night vision the intensity of the light is what matters. By using a full spectrum white light, the full spectrum light and low reflection reduces the amount of light needed. The 25 degree field is critical to keep the light out of our peripheral vision so we can look for traffic, and gauge height when we are making that perfect night landing.  
 Under red light, magenta symbols disappear on charts, and during electrical failures, red markings on instruments and gauges are unreadable. Blue light will make Blue 100LL fuel disappear.  
 Unaided night vision even now in the 21st century is still the subject of some controversy. 
 For those just looking for an executive answer as to what supplemental lighting should be used to reduced the recovery time back to night vision (dark adapted or scotopic) here it is: a fully dimmable white light! This of course is a very incomplete answer but so are the answers red or blue-green and you should know why. 
 Let’s start with red, specifically what I will call the red light myth. 
 I believe the myth started in the photographic darkroom. 
 Until about 1906 most photosensitive material (plate, film, and paper) was not very sensitive to red.  Some of these orthochromatic materials are still used. This allowed these materials to be dealt with for a short time under a relative bright red light because the human eye can see red if the level is bright enough. The fact that L.E.D.s (having a number of advantages over other light sources) were economically only available in red for some time has also help to perpetuate this myth. 
 As more research about the eye was done it was found that the structure responsible for very low light vision, the rods, were also not very sensitive to red. 
 It was assumed then that like film you could use red light, which is seen by the red sensitive cones (there are also blue and green sensitive cones to give color vision), without affecting the rods. 
 It takes a while for true night vision to be recovered.  About 10 minutes for 10%, 30-45 minutes for 80%, the rest may take hours, days, or a week. The issue is the chemical in the eye, rhodopsin - commonly called visual purple, is broken down quickly by light.  The main issue then is intensity; color is only an issue because the rods (responsible for night vision) are most sensitive at a particular color. That color is a blue-green (507nm) similar to traffic light green (which is this color for a entirely different reason). It would seem that using the lowest brightness (using this color) additional light needed for a task is the best bet to retain this dark adaptation because it allows rods to function at their best. 
 Unfortunately there are a number of drawbacks using only night vision. 
 Among these are:   - The inability to distinguish colors.  
 - No detail can be seen (about the same as 20/200 vision in daylight).  
 - That nothing can be seen directly in front of the eyes (no rods in the center of the retina), you must learn to look about 15-20° off center.  
 - Only motion can be detected well, therefore you may have to learn to move your eyes to detect something that doesn't move.  
 - Objects that aren't moving appear to move (autokinesis).  This has probably led to a number of plane crashes. 
   
 If you need to see directly in front of you or see detail you need red.  Like many myths the red light myth has some basis in fact.  The red truth? 
 Why red?  The center 1.5% of your retina (the fovea) which provides you with most detailed vision is packed almost exclusively with red sensitive cones. 
 This is the same area that has no rods and is responsible for the night blind spot.  There are fewer total green sensitive cones than red.  The number of blue sensitive cones is very small compared to green and red. 
 Which is just as well since the lens in the human eye cannot focus red and blue at the same time.  And using green really only changes perceived brightness because of the way the signals are processed in our neural pathways. Unlike a digital camera, more pixels, in this case, doesn't give us more detail. 
 [img]image002.gif[/img]Chart showing the distribution of rods vs cones.  Note the absence of rods in the center and the absence of both about 15° away from the the center toward the nose where the optic nerve passes. 
 At first glance the tendency would be to pick the hue of red at which we are most sensitive (566nm) which would make sense except for the real reason: we don't want to involve the rods.  The reason is the rods share the neural pathways with the cones so that you have this fuzzy image overriding the detailed one.  This effect disappears at slightly higher mesopic levels which is why white is a good choice for most tasks.  Many people look at the numbers for sensitivity for rods and cones and forget that in most cases the numbers have been adjusted so that rod peek sensitive matches cone peak.  Rods are in fact sensitive well into the infrared (not too useful except to know that light you can barely sense can adversely impact your night vision).  The key then is finding a hue that we can have at a high enough intensity that we can see the detail we need without activating our rods to the point where they obscure that detail.  Most source say this should be nothing shorter than 650nm.  Experimentation shows a L.E.D. with a peek around 700nm seems to work best (perceived as a deep red).  Note that red may be fatiguing to the eyes. 
 Conclusions:   - No matter what your color choice it must be fully adjustable for intensity.  
 - If you need the fastest dark adaptation recovery and can adjust to the limitations, or everyone in your group is using night vision equipment then blue-green.  
 - If you must see detail (reading a star chart, or instrument settings) and can lose peripheral vision (see note 1), then a very long wavelength red at a very low level.  Red really only has an advantage at very low levels (were the night blind spot is very obvious).  
 - A general walking around light so that you don't trip over the tripod, knock over equipment or bump into people, then blue-green with enough red added to get rid of the night blind spot, or maybe just use white.  Blue-green at higher brightness also works very well and at a lower intensity than white.  
 - If you need to see color and detail then likely the best choice is the dimmest white light for the shortest amount of time.  
 - If you are in the military you must follow their rules; hopefully they will have a good course in unassisted night vision.  
 - If you are a pilot and say you only fly in the day, you should be aware of the problems of night vision and should consider a basic (ground) course in night flying.  
 - If you wonder why no one else has drawn these conclusions look at the dashboard of most cars.  The markings are large, the pointers are large and an orange-red (a compromise, for certain "color blind" persons) and at night it is edge lit with blue-green filtered fully intensity adjustable light. 
   
 For Best night vision:  - Be sure you are getting enough vitamin A or its precursor beta-carotene in your diet (needed for the visual purple).  
 - Green leafy stuff is best followed by vegetables that have an orange color.  Yes that includes carrots but spinach or dark leaf lettuce are better.  It is possible to get too much vitamin A especially as a supplement.  
 - Keep up your general health.  Smoking is also very bad for night vision, as are most illegal drugs and some prescription drugs.  
 - Keep you blood sugar level as even as possible.  No meal skipping.  Six small meals are better than three large meals.  For carbohydrates favor starches (potatoes, rice, and bread) over simple sugars (sweets, alcohol).  
 - Use dark neutral gray sunglasses, that pass no more that 15% in full sun, when outside during the day. 
   
 True night blindness is rare.  Most of what people call night blindness is either a lack of vitamin A in the diet or a failure to understand the night blind spot. 
 Cataracts, even minor ones, increase the effects of glare at night and the eye's lens does yellow and passes less light as we age which may contribute to what some call night blindness. 
 Note:  The red filtered light at the intensity most people use is likely decreasing night vision much more than a properly dimmed white or blue-green light would! 
 Note:  There are day blind spots also but are in a different position in each eye so are less of a problem. 
 Note:  Blue-green (also called cyan, turquoise, teal and other names) as used here is NOT the combination of two colors but is a single particular hue.  I use the most common name for that hue. 
       
 Mil-STD 1472F 5.8.2.2 (table XVI) display lighting   
    
 Brightness of markings  
     
 Condition of use  
 Lighting Technique *  
 cd/m2  
 foot-lamberts  
 Brightness Adjustment   
     
 Indicator reading, dark adaptation necessary  
 Red flood, indirect, or both, with operator choice  
 0.07-0.35  
 (0.02-0.1)  
 Continuous throughout range   
     
 Indicator reading, dark adaptation not necessary but desirable  
 Red or low-color-temperature white flood, indirect, or both, with operator choice  
 0.07-3.5†  
 (0.02-1.0)  
 Continuous throughout range   
     
 Indicator reading, dark adaptation not necessary  
 White flood  
 3.5-70  
 (1-20)  
 Fixed or continuous   
     
 Panel monitoring, dark adaptation necessary  
 Red edge lighting, red or white flood, or both, with operator choice  
 0.07-3.5  
 (0.02-1.0)  
 Continuous throughout range   
     
 Panel monitoring, dark adaptation not necessary  
 White flood  
 35-70  
 (10-20)  
 Fixed or continuous   
     
 Possible exposure to bright flashes, restricted daylight  
 White flood  
 35-70  
 (10-20)  
 Fixed   
     
 Chart reading, dark adaptation necessary  
 Red or white flood with operator choice  
 0.35-3.50  
 (0.1-1.0)  
 Continuous throughout range   
     
 Chart reading, dark adaptation not necessary  
 White flood  
 17-70  
 (5-20)  
 Fixed or continuous   
 
     
 * Where detection of ground vehicles or other protected assets by image intensifier night vision devices must be minimized, blue-green light (incandescent filament through a filter which passes only wave lengths shorter than 600 nm) should be used in lieu of red light.   
     
 † Possible error in original, read as: 0.07-0.35, likely occurred when converted to metric.   
  
 This is intended only as an overview; no warranty of this information is expressed or implied   
  
 [Update 17 Nov 2003] I find new myths are springing up.  Such as blue-green L.E.D.s are emitting two colors of light.  This is a mis-understanding of the color name and that this is the most accepted name for this one color.  Another is that blue improves night vision.  While at somewhat higher levels it, of course, is stimulating the rods.  It is not an optimum color.  Another long standing myth is that human visual perception is based on three colors when it is really based on four.  The rods are usually ignored because many people believe, wrongly, that at the brightness at which we perceive color the rods are no longer providing our brains with any information. In fact the perception of brightness is highly influenced by the rods well into the photopic (bright light) range of vision.  Fluorescent lamp manufacturers have used this knowledge for a long time.  "Cool White" lamps have an additional amount of green phosphor added to make us "see" them as being brighter!  Of course the whole subject of color vision and the variances thereof (wrongly called "color blindness") will require a number of new pages even in synopsis form. 
 A point I forgot to cover is that to help preserve night vision in one eye the other may be closed or covered if you know you are about to be exposed to a brighter light, such as from a oncoming vehicle.  For normal observation both eyes should be kept open.  If it is difficult to concentrate on the desired image the eye not being used may be covered but not closed.  Closing affects focus and possibly acuity. 
 
 [Update 14 Dec 2003] A very important point barely mentioned in the original is that human peripheral vision is almost completely rod based!  The implication then is that we cannot see color at the edges of our vision.  If you think we can, try this simple experiment.  You will need a small assortment of color cards (try sheets of construction paper) and someone to assist you.  Sit looking straight ahead while you’re assistant, about 6 to 10 feet away, slowly moves a random color card into the margin of your vision.  Now, while still looking straight ahead, what color is the card? 
 
 This is the second most important factor that has been ignored in the design of outdoor lighting, the first being glare!  However this study (in pdf), at the U. S. Dept. of Transportation, is a subjective study of blue tinted headlamps.
 
 [Update 23 Jan 2004] A few random notes to be better integrated into this document later.
 Luminances are approximate and will vary with the individual and conditions.
 Vision luminance rage 1 * 10-6 to 1 * 106 cd/M2
 Rods luminance rage 1 * 10-6 to 1 * 103 cd/M2 (may still play a roll above this range)
 Cones luminance rage 1 * 10-3 to 1 * 106 cd/M2
 Explain "Purinke shift"
 20/20 vision is the ability to resolve 1 minute of arc at 20 feet.
 Discuss Ricco's Law.
 Discuss afterimages. 
 LITELite NVIS Compatibility  
 MIL-STD-3009 was developed by the Department of Defense in February 2001 and superceded MIL-L-85762A. It specifies that NVIS White for crew cockpit and utility lighting. NVIS Green A is grand fathered into the cockpit for certain applications, but not for new applications.  
 The chromacity of NVIS White makes it a full spectrum light even though is appears to have a green tint. Visible light can be split into the three primary colors, red, green and blue. The eye needs two primary colors to see 'white'. NVIS White, in simple terms is blue range through the green range. NVIS goggles filters allow a thin band of green light though the lens - so that users can see heads up displays and other required applications through the goggles. 
 The level of light with respect to the chromacity is important due to this leak (filter) in the goggles. Other manufacturers claim to be the 'only authorized' lights produced since they meet a request for proposal standard. These claims are false - they have never tested FLITELite products how could they know? FLITELite meets and exceeds non-binding RFP standards, AND meets the modern, more stringent MIL-STD-3009, which is a binding requirement specified by the military. 
 General Aviation pilots can benefit from this technology. This light spectrum and intensity is perfect for general night vision use as well.  
 Read MIL-STD-3009 here.  
 [img]image003.jpg[/img] 
 [img]image004.jpg[/img] 
 FLITELite minimizes the crossover zone by using a special combination of LED's and Filter material. The filter material ensures that the light greater than 600 nm is not transmitted.  
 [img]image005.jpg[/img] 
   
   
 Jim Wickert 
 Vision #159 “Vision some will have some will not” 
 Tel 920-467-0219 
 Cell 920-912-1014
 
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		riggs_la(at)yahoo.com Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 8:14 am    Post subject: dim able strip LED lighting | 
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				Another good point.  
      
 From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John McMahon
  Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 9:30 AM
  To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
  Subject: Re: Re: dim able strip LED lighting  
   
    
 And remember when the red cockpit lighting made all of the fan markers and LF ranges mysteriously disappear from our charts on night flights!    
 On Mon, Sep 6, 2010 at 7:25 PM, Lynn Riggs <riggs_la(at)yahoo.com (riggs_la(at)yahoo.com)> wrote:    
 --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Lynn Riggs" <riggs_la(at)yahoo.com (riggs_la(at)yahoo.com)>  
   
 I have flown with both, I am a retired Army pilot, and can tell you that the
  blue-green lighting has less of an impact on night vision than red and is
  easier to read charts with.  At lease the blue-green the Army used.
  
  Lynn    
 
  --
 
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		longg(at)pjm.com Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 9:09 am    Post subject: dim able strip LED lighting | 
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				I take Bilberry Extract which was used in WW2 and suggested for improving rod stimulation. Could be an old wives tale, but I do well with it. On trick to flying at night is to do it more often. Regardless of color (yes, some are better than others), choosing the best color will not automatically improve your night vision. People are always looking for a magic pill.  
    
 One thing I notice is that when I fly more often at night, my vision becomes more readily sensitive to the light available. In other words, the third night is better than the first. It’s the same thing that happens when I go from the city to hunting in the woods. For the first few days I never see an animal and then almost magically I begin to see small changes in the landscape and critters moving about were before not seen.  
    
 I believe they call the process adaptation. So, buy the best color that suits your needs, but better yet, sleep in Saturday morning and take to the stars more often.   
    
 Glenn,  
 New Garden, PA  
    
    
        
 From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
  Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 11:57 AM
  To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
  Subject: RE: Re: dim able strip LED lighting  
   
   
        
 Excellent research material.  I work on Part 121 Airliners and your below post seems consistent with what is being done up in their cockpits (Flight decks).  My darkroom days are way in the past and images of the damage of red light left too long on either film or paper are still remembered as damaging.  
     
    
     
 Being able to dim the intensity and use of the most pleasing hue seem important to me.  Thank You.  Hope your Marine contract serves you well.  
     
    
   
       
 John Cox  
     
    
     
 do not archive  
   
     
        
   
 From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Jim Wickert
  Sent: Tue 9/7/2010 7:51 AM
  To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
  Subject: RE: Re: dim able strip LED lighting  
     
 Jim Wickert here, I have been following this thread and have the following to put up for added fodder.  We have a Government Marine contract which we are working on that has a section for Night Illumination of Instrumentation and we are doing the scope research now. Below is some interesting information and food for thought.  At this time our general consensus is Soft White Flood of panels?  We have not released our findings to our customer however.  Take care sorry for the amount of text but this is only a snip of the 13 page findings.    
    
 FLITELite Light Color, Intensity & Night Vision:  
 Pilots have a choice of FLITELite colors - NVIS White (more information on NVIS White), Soft White that is NVIS friendly, Green, Red and Blue. The best light choice is NVIS White, followed by soft white, for a light that will protect your central night vision and provide full spectrum light. Green and Blue will protect central night vision as well, but blues and greens will disappear with this color of light - something for a pilot to consider prior to use. Red is also available, which will protect peripheral night vision, but not central vision as well as the soft white, blue and green. Red's on charts will also not be visible with red light, another consideration for the pilot to consider when making a color choice.   
 The eyes are comprised of Rods and Cones. We hear people talk about Rods being for night vision, and Cones for day vision, and while they both have their special attributes, it would be better to classify them in the aviation environment at Peripheral (Rods) and Central (Cones) vision. Both rods and cones have a day and night mode, and they both react to light at different rates, and to have sensitivity to different light frequencies.  
 Rods surround the periphery of the eye and are used for peripheral vision, and night vision. They do not see color, and do not detect motion. Rods only provide non-color vision at an acuity of 20/200. Rods are most susceptible to blue light. You never read, or scan your instruments with your Rods - or your peripheral vision - think about it. You are reading this article with your central vision - your cones.   
 Cones are used for color, central vision, with visual acuity of 20/20. The cones have a focal width of approximately 20 to 30 degrees. Cones are most susceptible to red light.  
 Cones are used when you read, day or night. During the day we read with our cones - during the night we need a light to read - obvious, but it shatters the red light myth in the aviation cockpit.  
 [img]cid:image001.gif(at)01CB4E8D.6D0C9ED0[/img]  
 So the question is what is the best light that will provide your eyes, and brain with the best light for reading? The answer is a dim white light. Look inside any of the new jets, and you will find that the lighting is white. Military cockpits specify NVIS White. NVIS White appears to have a green tint, but it is a full spectrum light. More on NVIS Compatibility   
 FLITELite is set to a 25 degree field of view to maximize the physiology of the pilot’s eye. But to preserve night vision the intensity of the light is what matters. By using a full spectrum white light, the full spectrum light and low reflection reduces the amount of light needed. The 25 degree field is critical to keep the light out of our peripheral vision so we can look for traffic, and gauge height when we are making that perfect night landing.   
 Under red light, magenta symbols disappear on charts, and during electrical failures, red markings on instruments and gauges are unreadable. Blue light will make Blue 100LL fuel disappear.   
 Unaided night vision even now in the 21st century is still the subject of some controversy.  
 For those just looking for an executive answer as to what supplemental lighting should be used to reduced the recovery time back to night vision (dark adapted or scotopic) here it is: a fully dimmable white light! This of course is a very incomplete answer but so are the answers red or blue-green and you should know why.  
 Let’s start with red, specifically what I will call the red light myth.  
 I believe the myth started in the photographic darkroom.  
 Until about 1906 most photosensitive material (plate, film, and paper) was not very sensitive to red.  Some of these orthochromatic materials are still used. This allowed these materials to be dealt with for a short time under a relative bright red light because the human eye can see red if the level is bright enough. The fact that L.E.D.s (having a number of advantages over other light sources) were economically only available in red for some time has also help to perpetuate this myth.  
 As more research about the eye was done it was found that the structure responsible for very low light vision, the rods, were also not very sensitive to red.  
 It was assumed then that like film you could use red light, which is seen by the red sensitive cones (there are also blue and green sensitive cones to give color vision), without affecting the rods.  
 It takes a while for true night vision to be recovered.  About 10 minutes for 10%, 30-45 minutes for 80%, the rest may take hours, days, or a week. The issue is the chemical in the eye, rhodopsin - commonly called visual purple, is broken down quickly by light.  The main issue then is intensity; color is only an issue because the rods (responsible for night vision) are most sensitive at a particular color. That color is a blue-green (507nm) similar to traffic light green (which is this color for a entirely different reason). It would seem that using the lowest brightness (using this color) additional light needed for a task is the best bet to retain this dark adaptation because it allows rods to function at their best.  
 Unfortunately there are a number of drawbacks using only night vision.  
 Among these are:     - The inability to      distinguish colors.   
 - No detail can be seen      (about the same as 20/200 vision in daylight).   
 - That nothing can be seen      directly in front of the eyes (no rods in the center of the retina), you      must learn to look about 15-20° off center.   
 - Only motion can be      detected well, therefore you may have to learn to move your eyes to detect      something that doesn't move.   
 - Objects that aren't moving      appear to move (autokinesis).  This has probably led to a number of      plane crashes.  
    
 If you need to see directly in front of you or see detail you need red.  Like many myths the red light myth has some basis in fact.  The red truth?  
 Why red?  The center 1.5% of your retina (the fovea) which provides you with most detailed vision is packed almost exclusively with red sensitive cones.  
 This is the same area that has no rods and is responsible for the night blind spot.  There are fewer total green sensitive cones than red.  The number of blue sensitive cones is very small compared to green and red.  
 Which is just as well since the lens in the human eye cannot focus red and blue at the same time.  And using green really only changes perceived brightness because of the way the signals are processed in our neural pathways. Unlike a digital camera, more pixels, in this case, doesn't give us more detail.  
                                                     <![endif]--><![if !vml]>[img]cid:image002.gif(at)01CB4E8D.6D0C9ED0[/img]<![endif]>Chart showing the distribution of rods vs cones.  Note the absence of rods in the center and the absence of both about 15° away from the the center toward the nose where the optic nerve passes.  
 At first glance the tendency would be to pick the hue of red at which we are most sensitive (566nm) which would make sense except for the real reason: we don't want to involve the rods.  The reason is the rods share the neural pathways with the cones so that you have this fuzzy image overriding the detailed one.  This effect disappears at slightly higher mesopic levels which is why white is a good choice for most tasks.  Many people look at the numbers for sensitivity for rods and cones and forget that in most cases the numbers have been adjusted so that rod peek sensitive matches cone peak.  Rods are in fact sensitive well into the infrared (not too useful except to know that light you can barely sense can adversely impact your night vision).  The key then is finding a hue that we can have at a high enough intensity that we can see the detail we need without activating our rods to the point where they obscure that detail.  Most source say this should be nothing shorter than 650nm.  Experimentation shows a L.E.D. with a peek around 700nm seems to work best (perceived as a deep red).  Note that red may be fatiguing to the eyes.  
 Conclusions:     - No matter what your color      choice it must be fully adjustable for intensity.   
 - If you need the fastest      dark adaptation recovery and can adjust to the limitations, or everyone in      your group is using night vision equipment then blue-green.   
 - If you must see detail      (reading a star chart, or instrument settings) and can lose peripheral vision      (see note 1),      then a very long wavelength red at a very low level.  Red really only      has an advantage at very low levels (were the night blind spot is very      obvious).   
 - A general walking around      light so that you don't trip over the tripod, knock over equipment or bump      into people, then blue-green with enough red added to get rid of the night      blind spot, or maybe just use white.  Blue-green at higher brightness      also works very well and at a lower intensity than white.   
 - If you need to see color      and detail then likely the best choice is the dimmest white light for the      shortest amount of time.   
 - If you are in the military      you must follow their rules; hopefully they will have a good course in      unassisted night vision.   
 - If you are a pilot and say      you only fly in the day, you should be aware of the problems of night      vision and should consider a basic (ground) course in night flying.   
 - If you wonder why no one      else has drawn these conclusions look at the dashboard of most cars.       The markings are large, the pointers are large and an orange-red (a      compromise, for certain "color blind" persons) and at night it      is edge lit with blue-green filtered fully intensity adjustable light.  
    
 For Best night vision:    - Be sure you are getting      enough vitamin A or its precursor beta-carotene in your diet (needed for      the visual purple).   
 - Green leafy stuff is best      followed by vegetables that have an orange color.  Yes that includes      carrots but spinach or dark leaf lettuce are better.  It is possible      to get too much vitamin A especially as a supplement.   
 - Keep up your general      health.  Smoking is also very bad for night vision, as are most      illegal drugs and some prescription drugs.   
 - Keep you blood sugar level      as even as possible.  No meal skipping.  Six small meals are      better than three large meals.  For carbohydrates favor starches      (potatoes, rice, and bread) over simple sugars (sweets, alcohol).   
 - Use dark neutral gray      sunglasses, that pass no more that 15% in full sun, when outside during      the day.  
    
 True night blindness is rare.  Most of what people call night blindness is either a lack of vitamin A in the diet or a failure to understand the night blind spot.  
 Cataracts, even minor ones, increase the effects of glare at night and the eye's lens does yellow and passes less light as we age which may contribute to what some call night blindness.  
 Note:  The red filtered light at the intensity most people use is likely decreasing night vision much more than a properly dimmed white or blue-green light would!  
 Note:  There are day blind spots also but are in a different position in each eye so are less of a problem.  
 Note:  Blue-green (also called cyan, turquoise, teal and other names) as used here is NOT the combination of two colors but is a single particular hue.  I use the most common name for that hue.  
            
 Mil-STD 1472F   5.8.2.2 (table XVI) display lighting             
           
 Brightness of   markings         
               
 Condition of use         
 Lighting Technique *         
 cd/m2         
 foot-lamberts         
 Brightness Adjustment             
               
 Indicator reading, dark adaptation necessary         
 Red flood, indirect, or both, with operator choice         
 0.07-0.35         
 (0.02-0.1)         
 Continuous throughout range             
               
 Indicator reading, dark adaptation not necessary but   desirable         
 Red or low-color-temperature white flood, indirect, or   both, with operator choice         
 0.07-3.5†         
 (0.02-1.0)         
 Continuous throughout range             
               
 Indicator reading, dark adaptation not necessary         
 White flood         
 3.5-70         
 (1-20)         
 Fixed or continuous             
               
 Panel monitoring, dark adaptation necessary         
 Red edge lighting, red or white flood, or both, with   operator choice         
 0.07-3.5         
 (0.02-1.0)         
 Continuous throughout range             
               
 Panel monitoring, dark adaptation not necessary         
 White flood         
 35-70         
 (10-20)         
 Fixed or continuous             
               
 Possible exposure to bright flashes, restricted daylight         
 White flood         
 35-70         
 (10-20)         
 Fixed             
               
 Chart reading, dark adaptation necessary         
 Red or white flood with operator choice         
 0.35-3.50         
 (0.1-1.0)         
 Continuous throughout range             
               
 Chart reading, dark adaptation not necessary         
 White flood         
 17-70         
 (5-20)         
 Fixed or continuous             
 
                  
 * Where detection of ground vehicles or other protected   assets by image intensifier night vision devices must be minimized,   blue-green light (incandescent filament through a filter which passes only   wave lengths shorter than 600 nm) should be used in lieu of red light.             
               
 † Possible error in original, read as: 0.07-0.35, likely   occurred when converted to metric.            
   
 This is intended only as an overview; no warranty of this information is expressed or implied      
   
 [Update 17 Nov 2003] I find new myths are springing up.  Such as blue-green L.E.D.s are emitting two colors of light.  This is a mis-understanding of the color name and that this is the most accepted name for this one color.  Another is that blue improves night vision.  While at somewhat higher levels it, of course, is stimulating the rods.  It is not an optimum color.  Another long standing myth is that human visual perception is based on three colors when it is really based on four.  The rods are usually ignored because many people believe, wrongly, that at the brightness at which we perceive color the rods are no longer providing our brains with any information. In fact the perception of brightness is highly influenced by the rods well into the photopic (bright light) range of vision.  Fluorescent lamp manufacturers have used this knowledge for a long time.  "Cool White" lamps have an additional amount of green phosphor added to make us "see" them as being brighter!  Of course the whole subject of color vision and the variances thereof (wrongly called "color blindness") will require a number of new pages even in synopsis form. 
  A point I forgot to cover is that to help preserve night vision in one eye the other may be closed or covered if you know you are about to be exposed to a brighter light, such as from a oncoming vehicle.  For normal observation both eyes should be kept open.  If it is difficult to concentrate on the desired image the eye not being used may be covered but not closed.  Closing affects focus and possibly acuity. 
  
  [Update 14 Dec 2003] A very important point barely mentioned in the original is that human peripheral vision is almost completely rod based!  The implication then is that we cannot see color at the edges of our vision.  If you think we can, try this simple experiment.  You will need a small assortment of color cards (try sheets of construction paper) and someone to assist you.  Sit looking straight ahead while you’re assistant, about 6 to 10 feet away, slowly moves a random color card into the margin of your vision.  Now, while still looking straight ahead, what color is the card? 
  
  This is the second most important factor that has been ignored in the design of outdoor lighting, the first being glare!  However this study (in pdf), at the U. S. Dept. of Transportation, is a subjective study of blue tinted headlamps.
  
  [Update 23 Jan 2004] A few random notes to be better integrated into this document later.
  Luminances are approximate and will vary with the individual and conditions.
  Vision luminance rage 1 * 10-6 to 1 * 106 cd/M2
  Rods luminance rage 1 * 10-6 to 1 * 103 cd/M2 (may still play a roll above this range)
  Cones luminance rage 1 * 10-3 to 1 * 106 cd/M2
  Explain "Purinke shift"
  20/20 vision is the ability to resolve 1 minute of arc at 20 feet.
  Discuss Ricco's Law.
  Discuss afterimages.  
 LITELite NVIS Compatibility   
 MIL-STD-3009 was developed by the Department of Defense in February 2001 and superceded MIL-L-85762A. It specifies that NVIS White for crew cockpit and utility lighting. NVIS Green A is grand fathered into the cockpit for certain applications, but not for new applications.   
 The chromacity of NVIS White makes it a full spectrum light even though is appears to have a green tint. Visible light can be split into the three primary colors, red, green and blue. The eye needs two primary colors to see 'white'. NVIS White, in simple terms is blue range through the green range. NVIS goggles filters allow a thin band of green light though the lens - so that users can see heads up displays and other required applications through the goggles.  
 The level of light with respect to the chromacity is important due to this leak (filter) in the goggles. Other manufacturers claim to be the 'only authorized' lights produced since they meet a request for proposal standard. These claims are false - they have never tested FLITELite products how could they know? FLITELite meets and exceeds non-binding RFP standards, AND meets the modern, more stringent MIL-STD-3009, which is a binding requirement specified by the military.  
 General Aviation pilots can benefit from this technology. This light spectrum and intensity is perfect for general night vision use as well.   
 Read MIL-STD-3009 here.   
 [img]cid:image003.jpg(at)01CB4E8D.6D0C9ED0[/img]  
 [img]cid:image004.jpg(at)01CB4E8D.6D0C9ED0[/img]  
 FLITELite minimizes the crossover zone by using a special combination of LED's and Filter material. The filter material ensures that the light greater than 600 nm is not transmitted.   
 [img]cid:image005.jpg(at)01CB4E8D.6D0C9ED0[/img]  
    
    
 Jim Wickert  
 Vision #159 “Vision some will have some will not”  
 Tel 920-467-0219  
 Cell 920-912-1014
 
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		raymondj(at)frontiernet.n Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 4:01 pm    Post subject: dim able strip LED lighting | 
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				Greetings Jim,
 
 I appreciate you sharing the info.  Would it be possible to make the 
 balance of your research available?  I certainly understand in you 
 choose not to, but I thought I'd ask.
 
 Thanks again for making this info available.
 
 do not archive
 
 Raymond Julian
 Kettle River, MN
 
 On 09/07/2010 09:51 AM, Jim Wickert wrote:
  	  | Quote: | 	 		   Jim Wickert here, I have been following this thread and have the
  following to put up for added fodder.  We have a Government Marine
  contract which we are working on that has a section for Night
  Illumination of Instrumentation and we are doing the scope research now.
  Below is some interesting information and food for thought.  At this
  time our general consensus is Soft White Flood of panels?  We have not
  released our findings to our customer however.  Take care sorry for the
  amount of text but this is only a snip of the 13 page findings.
 
  FLITELite Light Color, Intensity & Night Vision:
 
  Pilots have a choice of FLITELite colors - NVIS White (more information
  on NVIS White <http://www.flitelite.com/isite/nvis.htm>), Soft White
  that is NVIS friendly, Green, Red and Blue. The best light choice is
  NVIS White, followed by soft white, for a light that will protect your
  central night vision and provide full spectrum light. Green and Blue
  will protect central night vision as well, but blues and greens will
  disappear with this color of light - something for a pilot to consider
  prior to use. Red is also available, which will protect peripheral night
  vision, but not central vision as well as the soft white, blue and
  green. Red's on charts will also not be visible with red light, another
  consideration for the pilot to consider when making a color choice.
 
  The eyes are comprised of Rods and Cones. We hear people talk about Rods
  being for night vision, and Cones for day vision, and while they both
  have their special attributes, it would be better to classify them in
  the aviation environment at Peripheral (Rods) and Central (Cones)
  vision. Both rods and cones have a day and night mode, and they both
  react to light at different rates, and to have sensitivity to different
  light frequencies.
 
  Rods surround the periphery of the eye and are used for peripheral
  vision, and night vision. They do not see color, and do not detect
  motion. Rods only provide non-color vision at an acuity of 20/200. Rods
  are most susceptible to blue light. You never read, or scan your
  instruments with your Rods - or your peripheral vision - think about it.
  You are reading this article with your central vision - your cones.
 
  Cones are used for color, central vision, with visual acuity of 20/20.
  The cones have a focal width of approximately 20 to 30 degrees. Cones
  are most susceptible to red light.
 
  Cones are used when you read, day or night. During the day we read with
  our cones - during the night we need a light to read - obvious, but it
  shatters the red light myth in the aviation cockpit.
 
  http://www.flitelite.com/isite/images/rcdist.gif
 
  So the question is what is the best light that will provide your eyes,
  and brain with the best light for reading? The answer is a dim white
  light. Look inside any of the new jets, and you will find that the
  lighting is white. Military cockpits specify NVIS White
  <http://www.flitelite.com/isite/nvis.htm>. NVIS White appears to have a
  green tint, but it is a full spectrum light. More on NVIS Compatibility
  <http://www.flitelite.com/isite/nvis.htm>
 
  FLITELite is set to a 25 degree field of view to maximize the physiology
  of the pilot’s eye. But to preserve night vision the intensity of the
  light is what matters. By using a full spectrum white light, the full
  spectrum light and low reflection reduces the amount of light needed.
  The 25 degree field is critical to keep the light out of our peripheral
  vision so we can look for traffic, and gauge height when we are making
  that perfect night landing.
 
  Under red light, magenta symbols disappear on charts, and during
  electrical failures, red markings on instruments and gauges are
  unreadable. Blue light will make Blue 100LL fuel disappear.
 
  Unaided night vision even now in the 21st century is still the subject
  of some controversy.
 
  For those just looking for an executive answer as to what supplemental
  lighting should be used to reduced the recovery time back to night
  vision (dark adapted or scotopic) here it is: a fully dimmable white
  light! This of course is a very incomplete answer but so are the answers
  red or blue-green and you should know why.
 
  Let’s start with red, specifically what I will call the red light myth.
 
  I believe the myth started in the photographic darkroom.
 
  Until about 1906 most photosensitive material (plate, film, and paper)
  was not very sensitive to red. Some of these orthochromatic materials
  are still used. This allowed these materials to be dealt with for a
  short time under a relative bright red light because the human eye can
  see red if the level is bright enough. The fact that L.E.D.s (having a
  number of advantages over other light sources) were economically only
  available in red for some time has also help to perpetuate this myth.
 
  As more research about the eye was done it was found that the structure
  responsible for very low light vision, the rods, were also not very
  sensitive to red.
 
  It was assumed then that like film you could use red light, which is
  seen by the red sensitive cones (there are also blue and green sensitive
  cones to give color vision), without affecting the rods.
 
  It takes a while for true night vision to be recovered. About 10 minutes
  for 10%, 30-45 minutes for 80%, the rest may take hours, days, or a
  week. The issue is the chemical in the eye, rhodopsin - commonly called
  visual purple, is broken down quickly by light. The main issue then is
  intensity; color is only an issue because the rods (responsible for
  night vision) are most sensitive at a particular color. That color is a
  blue-green (507nm) similar to traffic light green (which is this color
  for a entirely different reason). It would seem that using the lowest
  brightness (using this color) additional light needed for a task is the
  best bet to retain this dark adaptation because it allows rods to
  function at their best.
 
  Unfortunately there are a number of drawbacks using only night vision.
 
  Among these are:
 
      * The inability to distinguish colors.
      * No detail can be seen (about the same as 20/200 vision in daylight).
      * That nothing can be seen directly in front of the eyes (no rods in
        the center of the retina), you must learn to look about 15-20° off
        center.
      * Only motion can be detected well, therefore you may have to learn
        to move your eyes to detect something that doesn't move.
      * Objects that aren't moving appear to move (autokinesis). This has
        probably led to a number of plane crashes.
 
  If you need to see directly in front of you or see detail you need red.
  Like many myths the red light myth has some basis in fact. The red truth?
 
  Why red? The center 1.5% of your retina (the fovea) which provides you
  with most detailed vision is packed almost exclusively with red
  sensitive cones.
 
  This is the same area that has no rods and is responsible for the night
  blind spot. There are fewer total green sensitive cones than red. The
  number of blue sensitive cones is very small compared to green and red.
 
  Which is just as well since the lens in the human eye cannot focus red
  and blue at the same time. And using green really only changes perceived
  brightness because of the way the signals are processed in our neural
  pathways. Unlike a digital camera, more pixels, in this case, doesn't
  give us more detail.
 
  rod density vs. conesChart showing the distribution of rods vs cones.
  Note the absence of rods in the center and the absence of both about 15°
  away from the the center toward the nose where the optic nerve passes.
 
  At first glance the tendency would be to pick the hue of red at which we
  are most sensitive (566nm) which would make sense except for the real
  reason: we don't want to involve the rods. The reason is the rods share
  the neural pathways with the cones so that you have this fuzzy image
  overriding the detailed one. This effect disappears at slightly higher
  mesopic levels which is why white is a good choice for most tasks. Many
  people look at the numbers for sensitivity for rods and cones and forget
  that in most cases the numbers have been adjusted so that rod peek
  sensitive matches cone peak. Rods are in fact sensitive well into the
  infrared (not too useful except to know that light you can barely sense
  can adversely impact your night vision). The key then is finding a hue
  that we can have at a high enough intensity that we can see the detail
  we need without activating our rods to the point where they obscure that
  detail. Most source say this should be nothing shorter than 650nm.
  Experimentation shows a L.E.D. with a peek around 700nm seems to work
  best (perceived as a deep red). Note that red may be fatiguing to the eyes.
 
  Conclusions:
 
      * No matter what your color choice it must be fully adjustable for
        intensity.
      * If you need the fastest dark adaptation recovery and can adjust to
        the limitations, or everyone in your group is using night vision
        equipment then blue-green.
      * If you must see detail (reading a star chart, or instrument
        settings) and can lose peripheral vision^ (see note 1)
        <http://stlplaces.com/night_vision_red_myth/#note1> , then a very
        long wavelength red at a very low level. Red really only has an
        advantage at very low levels (were the night blind spot is very
        obvious).
      * A general walking around light so that you don't trip over the
        tripod, knock over equipment or bump into people, then blue-green
        with enough red added to get rid of the night blind spot, or maybe
        just use white. Blue-green at higher brightness also works very
        well and at a lower intensity than white.
      * If you need to see color and detail then likely the best choice is
        the dimmest white light for the shortest amount of time.
      * If you are in the military you must follow their rules; hopefully
        they will have a good course in unassisted night vision.
      * If you are a pilot and say you only fly in the day, you should be
        aware of the problems of night vision and should consider a basic
        (ground) course in night flying.
      * If you wonder why no one else has drawn these conclusions look at
        the dashboard of most cars. The markings are large, the pointers
        are large and an orange-red (a compromise, for certain "color
        blind" persons) and at night it is edge lit with blue-green
        filtered fully intensity adjustable light.
 
  For Best night vision:
 
      * Be sure you are getting enough vitamin A or its precursor
        beta-carotene in your diet (needed for the visual purple).
      * Green leafy stuff is best followed by vegetables that have an
        orange color. Yes that includes carrots but spinach or dark leaf
        lettuce are better. It is possible to get too much vitamin A
        especially as a supplement.
      * Keep up your general health. Smoking is also very bad for night
        vision, as are most illegal drugs and some prescription drugs.
      * Keep you blood sugar level as even as possible. No meal skipping.
        Six small meals are better than three large meals. For
        carbohydrates favor starches (potatoes, rice, and bread) over
        simple sugars (sweets, alcohol).
      * Use dark neutral gray sunglasses, that pass no more that 15% in
        full sun, when outside during the day.
 
  True night blindness is rare. Most of what people call night blindness
  is either a lack of vitamin A in the diet or a failure to understand the
  night blind spot.
 
  Cataracts, even minor ones, increase the effects of glare at night and
  the eye's lens does yellow and passes less light as we age which may
  contribute to what some call night blindness.
 
  Note: The red filtered light at the intensity most people use is likely
  decreasing night vision much more than a properly dimmed white or
  blue-green light would!
 
  Note: There are day blind spots also but are in a different position in
  each eye so are less of a problem.
 
  Note: Blue-green (also called cyan, turquoise, teal and other names) as
  used here is NOT the combination of two colors but is a single
  particular hue. I use the most common name for that hue.
 
  *Mil-STD 1472F 5.8.2.2 (table XVI) display lighting*
 
  	
 
  Brightness of markings
 
  	
 
  Condition of use
 
  	
 
  Lighting Technique *
 
  	
 
  cd/m^2
 
  	
 
  foot-lamberts
 
  	
 
  Brightness Adjustment
 
  Indicator reading, dark adaptation necessary
 
  	
 
  Red flood, indirect, or both, with operator choice
 
  	
 
  0.07-0.35
 
  	
 
  (0.02-0.1)
 
  	
 
  Continuous throughout range
 
  Indicator reading, dark adaptation not necessary but desirable
 
  	
 
  Red or low-color-temperature white flood, indirect, or both, with
  operator choice
 
  	
 
  0.07-3.5†
 
  	
 
  (0.02-1.0)
 
  	
 
  Continuous throughout range
 
  Indicator reading, dark adaptation not necessary
 
  	
 
  White flood
 
  	
 
  3.5-70
 
  	
 
  (1-20)
 
  	
 
  Fixed or continuous
 
  Panel monitoring, dark adaptation necessary
 
  	
 
  Red edge lighting, red or white flood, or both, with operator choice
 
  	
 
  0.07-3.5
 
  	
 
  (0.02-1.0)
 
  	
 
  Continuous throughout range
 
  Panel monitoring, dark adaptation not necessary
 
  	
 
  White flood
 
  	
 
  35-70
 
  	
 
  (10-20)
 
  	
 
  Fixed or continuous
 
  Possible exposure to bright flashes, restricted daylight
 
  	
 
  White flood
 
  	
 
  35-70
 
  	
 
  (10-20)
 
  	
 
  Fixed
 
  Chart reading, dark adaptation necessary
 
  	
 
  Red or white flood with operator choice
 
  	
 
  0.35-3.50
 
  	
 
  (0.1-1.0)
 
  	
 
  Continuous throughout range
 
  Chart reading, dark adaptation not necessary
 
  	
 
  White flood
 
  	
 
  17-70
 
  	
 
  (5-20)
 
  	
 
  Fixed or continuous
  * Where detection of ground vehicles or other protected assets by image
  intensifier night vision devices must be minimized, blue-green light
  (incandescent filament through a filter which passes only wave lengths
  shorter than 600 nm) should be used in lieu of red light.
 
  † Possible error in original, read as: 0.07-0.35, likely occurred when
  converted to metric.
 
  ------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
  *This is intended only as an overview; no warranty of this information
  is expressed or implied*
 
  ------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
  [Update 17 Nov 2003] I find new myths are springing up. Such as
  blue-green L.E.D.s are emitting two colors of light. This is a
  mis-understanding of the color name and that this is the most accepted
  name for this one color. Another is that blue improves night vision.
  While at somewhat higher levels it, of course, is stimulating the rods.
  It is not an optimum color. Another long standing myth is that human
  visual perception is based on three colors when it is really based on
  four. The rods are usually ignored because many people believe, wrongly,
  that at the brightness at which we perceive color the rods are no longer
  providing our brains with any information. In fact the perception of
  brightness is highly influenced by the rods well into the photopic
  (bright light) range of vision. Fluorescent lamp manufacturers have used
  this knowledge for a long time. "Cool White" lamps have an additional
  amount of green phosphor added to make us "see" them as being brighter!
  Of course the whole subject of color vision and the variances thereof
  (wrongly called "color blindness") will require a number of new pages
  even in synopsis form.
  A point I forgot to cover is that to help preserve night vision in one
  eye the other may be closed or covered if you know you are about to be
  exposed to a brighter light, such as from a oncoming vehicle. For normal
  observation both eyes should be kept open. If it is difficult to
  concentrate on the desired image the eye not being used may be covered
  but not closed. Closing affects focus and possibly acuity.
 
  [Update 14 Dec 2003] A very important point barely mentioned in the
  original is that human peripheral vision is almost completely rod based!
  The implication then is that we cannot see color at the edges of our
  vision. If you think we can, try this simple experiment. You will need a
  small assortment of color cards (try sheets of construction paper) and
  someone to assist you. Sit looking straight ahead while you’re
  assistant, about 6 to 10 feet away, slowly moves a random color card
  into the margin of your vision. Now, while still looking straight ahead,
  what color is the card?
 
  This is the second most important factor that has been ignored in the
  design of outdoor lighting, the first being glare! However this study
  <http://stlplaces.com/cgi/redirect.cgi?http://dmses.dot.gov/docimages/pdf66/133155_web.pdf>
  (in pdf), at the U. S. Dept. of Transportation, is a subjective study of
  blue tinted headlamps.
 
  [Update 23 Jan 2004] A few random notes to be better integrated into
  this document later.
  Luminances are approximate and will vary with the individual and conditions.
  Vision luminance rage 1 * 10^-6 to 1 * 10^6 cd/M^2
  Rods luminance rage 1 * 10^-6 to 1 * 10^3 cd/M^2 (may still play a roll
  above this range)
  Cones luminance rage 1 * 10^-3 to 1 * 10^6 cd/M^2
  Explain "Purinke shift"
  20/20 vision is the ability to resolve 1 minute of arc at 20 feet.
  Discuss Ricco's Law.
  Discuss afterimages.
 
  LITELite NVIS Compatibility
 
  MIL-STD-3009 was developed by the Department of Defense in February 2001
  and superceded MIL-L-85762A. It specifies that NVIS White for crew
  cockpit and utility lighting. NVIS Green A is grand fathered into the
  cockpit for certain applications, but not for new applications.
 
  The chromacity of NVIS White makes it a full spectrum light even though
  is appears to have a green tint. Visible light can be split into the
  three primary colors, red, green and blue. The eye needs two primary
  colors to see 'white'. NVIS White, in simple terms is blue range through
  the green range. NVIS goggles filters allow a thin band of green light
  though the lens - so that users can see heads up displays and other
  required applications through the goggles.
 
  The level of light with respect to the chromacity is important due to
  this leak (filter) in the goggles. Other manufacturers claim to be the
  'only authorized' lights produced since they meet a request for proposal
  standard. These claims are false - they have never tested FLITELite
  products how could they know? FLITELite meets and exceeds non-binding
  RFP standards, AND meets the modern, more stringent MIL-STD-3009, which
  is a binding requirement specified by the military.
 
  General Aviation pilots can benefit from this technology. This light
  spectrum and intensity is perfect for general night vision use as well.
 
  Read MIL-STD-3009
  <http://www.flitelite.com/isite/support/MIL_STD_3009.pdf> here.
 
  http://www.flitelite.com/isite/images/nvischart.jpg
 
  http://www.flitelite.com/isite/images/range.jpg
 
  FLITELite minimizes the crossover zone by using a special combination of
  LED's and Filter material. The filter material ensures that the light
  greater than 600 nm is not transmitted.
 
  http://www.flitelite.com/isite/images/nvissys.jpg
 
  Jim Wickert
 
  Vision #159 “Vision some will have some will not”
 
  Tel 920-467-0219
 
  Cell 920-912-1014
 
  *From:* owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
  [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
  *Richard Girard
  *Sent:* Tuesday, September 07, 2010 8:35 AM
  *To:* aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
  *Subject:* Re: Re: dim able strip LED lighting
 
  Using the example of Boeing and Airbus for cockpit lighting in a good
  example of not examining the application before making a decision, IMHO.
  When was the last time an airline crew really needed to have good night
  vision for looking outside the cockpit? Unless you plan on flying on
  instruments from takeoff to touchdown, or very nearly, is this the wise
  choice?
 
  Even using the military, particularly what the helicopter cockpits use,
  is questionable since their decision may have been driven as much by
  compatibility with night vision equipment as the human eye.
 
  Just exactly how much improvement is blue/green over red? Does the
  difference amount to anything more that picking the fly poop from the
  pepper, or are we dealing with an unquantifiable "coolness factor"?
 
  Rick Girard
 
  On Mon, Sep 6, 2010 at 10:04 PM, RV7ASask <rv7alamb(at)sasktel.net
  <mailto:rv7alamb(at)sasktel.net>> wrote:
 
  
  <rv7alamb(at)sasktel.net <mailto:rv7alamb(at)sasktel.net>>
 
   >>This is an interesting dimmer. �Does it have the noise problems that
  Bob was writing about?
 
  I am just finishing installing the radios so I can't tell you about
  noise problems at this time. More to follow.
 
  Weighing in on the color of the light. I said earlier 'Stick with
  White.' I think both Mr Boeing and Mr Airbus have opted for white in the
  cockpit and I think they got it right.
 
  David
 
 
  Read this topic online here:
 
  http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=311626#311626
 
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