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andrew.d.zachar(at)gmail. Guest
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Posted: Mon Nov 08, 2010 7:43 am Post subject: Hacking the B&C Wig Wag Flasher. |
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Good morning, everyone.
The last time I had my B&C flasher hooked up, I thought it was a little
fast. I did some experimentation over the weekend, and I thought I would
share my results.
A post on the this list last week made me think it would be much easier to
fix than I thought. Vern: "My fix was to open up the wig-wag flasher and
replace the electrolytic capacitor with a larger value, slowing the flash
rate down."
After eagerly writing Vern back, he elaborated, "You should only find one
capacitor. It's a metal can with a plastic case. Try doubling the
capacitance (in microfarads). It's not critical.
You can just pry open the bottom to release the tabs and slide the cover
off."
Sweet. I went outside and got to work.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-007-large.jpg
The cover was surprisingly easy to pry off.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-008-large.jpg
There's the capacitor, on the upper left. Let's see, this is a 4.7 µF
capacitor.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-009-large.jpg
I'll go by a 10µF and 20µF to try out.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-013-large.jpg
I fired up my (new, because I polished the old one's tip for devinyling
help) soldering gun and heated up the solder on the back of the board enough
to pull the old capacitor out.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-014-large.jpg
Sweet. That was easier than I thought it would be.
Here's the 10µF capacitor installed.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-015-large.jpg
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-016-large.jpg
Not great, but not terrible either. (My first REAL soldering.)
So, I put the thing back together and fired it up.
This is the fast version, from my previous post with the 4.7 uF capacitor..
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retasker(at)optonline.net Guest
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Posted: Mon Nov 08, 2010 11:03 am Post subject: Hacking the B&C Wig Wag Flasher. |
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Depending on exactly where this is mounted, you might want to use a glob
of RTV to stabilize the capacitor against vibration. I am surprised
that they didn't use any on the original, although if this is a car
flasher, I suppose they assumed it would be mounted in a low vibration
environment under the dash.
Dick Tasker
P.S. Your soldering looks fine!
Andrew Zachar wrote:
Quote: |
Good morning, everyone.
The last time I had my B&C flasher hooked up, I thought it was a
little fast. I did some experimentation over the weekend, and I
thought I would share my results.
A post on the this list last week made me think it would be much
easier to fix than I thought. Vern: "My fix was to open up the wig-wag
flasher and replace the electrolytic capacitor with a larger value,
slowing the flash rate down."
After eagerly writing Vern back, he elaborated, "You should only find
one capacitor. It's a metal can with a plastic case. Try doubling the
capacitance (in microfarads). It's not critical.
You can just pry open the bottom to release the tabs and slide the
cover off."
Sweet. I went outside and got to work.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-007-large.jpg
The cover was surprisingly easy to pry off.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-008-large.jpg
There's the capacitor, on the upper left. Let's see, this is a 4.7 µF
capacitor.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-009-large.jpg
I'll go by a 10µF and 20µF to try out.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-013-large.jpg
I fired up my (new, because I polished the old one's tip for
devinyling help) soldering gun and heated up the solder on the back of
the board enough to pull the old capacitor out.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-014-large.jpg
Sweet. That was easier than I thought it would be.
Here's the 10µF capacitor installed.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-015-large.jpg
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-016-large.jpg
Not great, but not terrible either. (My first REAL soldering.)
So, I put the thing back together and fired it up.
This is the fast version, from my previous post with the 4.7 uF
capacitor...
http://videos.videopress.com/h02JJyop/20101020_hd.mp4
And with the 10 uF capacitor...
http://videos.videopress.com/kxRChhjU/20101107-002_hd.mp4
I used an online "beat-tapper" (http://www.all8.com/tools/bpm.htm) to
calculate the old flash rate (85 Hz, from light 1 on to light 1 on
again) and the new flash rate (45 Hz).
I like 45 Hz. I'm thinking I might try the 20µF version, just to see
how slow it is. But, I'm calling this a huge success. (Thanks Vern,
for showing me how easy this would be.)
(I'm giving up on the flashing of the 4 MR16 HIDs in the wingtip. I
think I'm going to use steady HID leading edge landing lights, and
flash my taxi lights (which may still end up in the wingtips.))
--
Andrew Zachar
andrew.d.zachar(at)gmail.com <mailto:andrew.d.zachar(at)gmail.com>
*
*
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sprocket(at)vx-aviation.c Guest
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Posted: Mon Nov 08, 2010 12:49 pm Post subject: Hacking the B&C Wig Wag Flasher. |
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Wow, Andrew, what a great tutorial! If you have a website, you should publish this. If not, let me know and I can put it up on my site.
Vern
From: Andrew Zachar (andrew.d.zachar(at)gmail.com)
Sent: Monday, November 08, 2010 7:38 AM
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com (aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Hacking the B&C Wig Wag Flasher.
Good morning, everyone.
The last time I had my B&C flasher hooked up, I thought it was a little fast. I did some experimentation over the weekend, and I thought I would share my results.
A post on the this list last week made me think it would be much easier to fix than I thought. Vern: "My fix was to open up the wig-wag flasher and replace the electrolytic capacitor with a larger value, slowing the flash rate down."
After eagerly writing Vern back, he elaborated, "You should only find one capacitor. It's a metal can with a plastic case. Try doubling the capacitance (in microfarads). It's not critical.
You can just pry open the bottom to release the tabs and slide the cover off."
Sweet. I went outside and got to work.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-007-large.jpg
The cover was surprisingly easy to pry off.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-008-large.jpg
There's the capacitor, on the upper left. Let's see, this is a 4.7 µF capacitor.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-009-large.jpg
I'll go by a 10µF and 20µF to try out.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-013-large.jpg
I fired up my (new, because I polished the old one's tip for devinyling help) soldering gun and heated up the solder on the back of the board enough to pull the old capacitor out.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-014-large.jpg
Sweet. That was easier than I thought it would be.
Here's the 10µF capacitor installed.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-015-large.jpg
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-016-large.jpg
Not great, but not terrible either. (My first REAL soldering.)
So, I put the thing back together and fired it up.
This is the fast version, from my previous post with the 4.7 uF capacitor...http://videos.videopress.com/h02JJyop/20101020_hd.mp4
And with the 10 uF capacitor...http://videos.videopress.com/kxRChhjU/20101107-002_hd.mp4
I used an online "beat-tapper" (http://www.all8.com/tools/bpm.htm) to calculate the old flash rate (85 Hz, from light 1 on to light 1 on again) and the new flash rate (45 Hz).
I like 45 Hz. I'm thinking I might try the 20µF version, just to see how slow it is. But, I'm calling this a huge success. (Thanks Vern, for showing me how easy this would be.)
(I'm giving up on the flashing of the 4 MR16 HIDs in the wingtip. I think I'm going to use steady HID leading edge landing lights, and flash my taxi lights (which may still end up in the wingtips.))--
Andrew Zachar
andrew.d.zachar(at)gmail.com (andrew.d.zachar(at)gmail.com)
Quote: |
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Release Date: 11/08/10 07:34:00
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skywagon
Joined: 11 Feb 2006 Posts: 184
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Posted: Mon Nov 08, 2010 1:07 pm Post subject: Hacking the B&C Wig Wag Flasher. |
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Andrew,
Thanks for the fine details and images. Just wish that you had not used .mp4 video format as I could not safely figure a way to view that codex in my Vista windows os...Dave
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andrew.d.zachar(at)gmail. Guest
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Posted: Mon Nov 08, 2010 1:10 pm Post subject: Hacking the B&C Wig Wag Flasher. |
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Woops. Forgot to include the post address.
Here's the post: http://n999za.wordpress.com/2010/11/07/hacking-the-wig-wag-flasher/
[/url](General site is: [url=http://n999za.wordpress.com/]http://n999za.wordpress.com/)
Thanks again, Vern. You were the inspiration for the post.
Quote: | Wow, Andrew, what a great tutorial! If you have a website, you should publish this. If not, let me know and I can put it up on my site.
Vern
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--
Andrew Zachar
andrew.d.zachar(at)gmail.com (andrew.d.zachar(at)gmail.com)
[quote][b]
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deej(at)deej.net Guest
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Posted: Mon Nov 08, 2010 1:18 pm Post subject: Hacking the B&C Wig Wag Flasher. |
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On 11/08/2010 04:04 PM, David LLoyd wrote:
Quote: | Andrew,
Thanks for the fine details and images. Just wish that you had not used
.mp4 video format as I could not safely figure a way to view that codex
in my Vista windows os...Dave
|
Hi Dave,
Try VLC:
http://www.videolan.org/vlc/
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Please use Netiquette Guidelines http://tools.ietf.org/html/rfc1855
Kindly TRIM your email replies and post AFTER the relevant text
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andrew.d.zachar(at)gmail. Guest
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect Guest
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Posted: Mon Nov 08, 2010 3:12 pm Post subject: Hacking the B&C Wig Wag Flasher. |
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At 03:06 PM 11/8/2010, you wrote:
It's MUCH easier to replace the timing resistor. I couldn't
see the critter well enough to read the resistance but it's
no doubt the one right next to the base of capacitor.
Having said that, one might ALSO which to replace the aluminum
electrolytic with the smaller tantalum. It's more stable and
less stressful of mounting under vibration. Here's a readily
available device
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId 62393
and it's a 10uf . . . which will double the flash cycle
period. But for finer tuning . . . fiddle with the
resistor. A dab of E6000, RTV or similar cement at the
base of the existing capacitor would go a long way toward
increasing it's resistance to vibration.
It's a VERY common production practice to put little
dabs of support on components with long overhangs. I learned
this about 1975 when my first article ov relay for Cessna
got some parts shaken off during qual tests. After about
three or four similar experiences I learned how to do it.
Haven't broken a product in vibration qualification in
30 years.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
[quote][b]
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skywagon
Joined: 11 Feb 2006 Posts: 184
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Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 12:18 pm Post subject: Hacking the B&C Wig Wag Flasher. |
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Dj,
Thanks for the tip....will try.
D
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