alderman.kevin0610(at)gma Guest
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Posted: Sun Aug 12, 2012 4:21 am Post subject: KIS-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 08/11/12 |
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I like Awlgrip- the same paint I use for our ocean going fiberglass boats. Awl Grip can be sprayed or rolled on and brush tipped, is a 2 part urethane and is virtually indestructable. Even battery acid wont hurt it. It takes a few tries to get the roll and tip thing down pat- the best thing to do is to practice.
They also have an epoxy high build primer that is easy to apply and easy to sand. It is also a 2 part system.
It can be sprayed or brushed. I painted a 53 foot boat with 2 gallons of color and 3 units of primer. For my Wheeler Express I will get one kit of primer which is 2 gallons total product, and one gallon of paint which will be 1.5 gallons with the hardener. You could get 2 quarts and have enough paint easily, but the 2 quarts will cost almost as much as a gallon. Seal it up and you will have wheel pants touch up paint for many years.
Kevin Alderman
On Sun, Aug 12, 2012 at 2:59 AM, KIS-List Digest Server <kis-list(at)matronics.com (kis-list(at)matronics.com)> wrote:
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Total Messages Posted Sat 08/11/12: 3
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Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:18 AM - Re: Sanding, sanding, some more sanding and so on. (ALFRED ROSA)
2. 08:10 PM - Re: Sanding, sanding, some more sanding and so on. (Robert Reed)
3. 11:31 PM - Re: Sanding, sanding, some more sanding and so on. (Scott Stearns)
________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________
Time: 05:18:17 AM PST US
Subject: Re: Sanding, sanding, some more sanding and so on.
From: ALFRED ROSA <fredorosa(at)gmail.com (fredorosa(at)gmail.com)>
What primer are you using and what top coat paint? I've been rolling on
UV Smooth Prime (Polyfiber) and like the way it fills and sands. I'm
planning on a water base top coat by Polyfiber also.
Al
________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________
Time: 08:10:09 PM PST US
From: Robert Reed <robertr237(at)att.net (robertr237(at)att.net)>
Subject: Re: Sanding, sanding, some more sanding and so on.
Al,=0A=0AI looked at using UV Smooth Prime and the PolyFiber topcoat, the S
tewart System, =0Aand System Three Marine Paint system.- The UV Smooth Pr
ime looked real good for =0Aa primer but I found too many negatives on the
PolyFiber for composites that I =0Abacked off on using it.- I also have t
he issue now of not having any available =0Afacilities for spray painting s
o will be forced to find an alternate way to =0Afinish.- The Steward syst
em definately didn't recomend anything but HVLP spray.- =0A=0A=0AI picked
the System Three system because it fully supported roll and tip or =0Aspra
ying.- I am using SilverTip Yacht Primer.- It-is a waterborne, two-pa
rt =0Aepoxy coating specifically formulated as a tough, below-the-waterline
primer for =0Amarine topcoats.-- I figured if it would work for marine
applications it should =0Awork well for aircraft use as well.- The prime
r does not contain a UV absorber.- =0AIt does go on easily with a roller
and flows out nicely if you make sure and =0Akeep your area within temperat
ure range of 65-80 degrees with HIGH 80% =0Ahumidity.- I have my shop air
conditioned and used wet towels, sprayed the floor =0Aand put a wet towel o
ver the airconditioner.- It raised the humidity level and =0Athe primer s
pread out perfectly.- If you don't do this, the primer dries so =0Aquickl
y that it will leave marks from the brush tip.=0A=0AFor the color coats I w
ill be useing System Three WR-LPU Topcoat.- It-is a =0Atwo-part linear
polyurethane coating specifically formulated for maximum =0Aperformance and
ease of use. Available in 12 standard colors as well as clear =0Asatin and
high gloss. When cured it is moisture, solvent and fuel resistant. =0AWR-L
PU contains UV absorbers and will not yellow or lose gloss for years, =0Ade
pending on exposure.- (Portions copied from lit)- Both primer and top c
oat are =0Awater based.- The topcoat can use a crosslinker to produce a s
uper hard finish.- =0AThinning uses distilled water and the top coat does
not require mixing with =0Aother than water unless crosslinker is added wh
ich is only a few drops per =0Aounce.- The top color coat paint appears t
o be much thinner than the primer and =0Awith recommend water addition it s
hould flow out much better than the primer.- I =0Awill be doing some test
parts in the next few weeks to see how it flows out in =0Avarious conditio
ns.- =0A=0A=0AMy plan is to use the roll and tip to apply two coats of pr
imer.- Sand the first =0Atwo coats to make sure of filling any minor low
spots.- Follow with two =0Aadditional primer coats that will be sanded fo
r top coat preparation.- I will =0Athen add three coats of color top coat
s with crosslinker added again using roll =0Aand tip.- I will let the col
or coats fully cure and then perform a color sanding =0Ato remove any imper
fectioins in the surface.- Finally, on those parts that I can =0Aget to m
y shop for finish I will followup with two to three coats of clear high =0A
gloss with the crosslinker again added.- I don't expect to have to finish
sand =0Aand buff the clear but will if needed.- The fuselage is going to
be a bigger =0Aproblem since it is at the hangar and can't be inclosed and
protected for =0Apainting.- I also will have little control over dust an
d humidity issues.- The =0Aplan...wait for a warm high humidity rainy wee
k and spend a few days of misery =0Atrying to get the paint on.- That wil
l not come before late fall or early next =0Aspring.- Dallas is just too
darn dry.=0A=0AFinally, I know this is NOT the best way to finish my plane.
- That is a given =0Abut there are no paint facilities on my airport and
the airport forbids painting =0A(spray) in the hangars.- Can't say I blam
e them.- Probably wouldn't make much =0Adifference if they did, the elect
rical available to my bay won't even start my =0Acompressor.- So my optio
ns are limited as are my funds for paying someone to put =0Aon a multi-thou
sand dollar paint job.- It is both labor and time intensive but =0Ahopefu
lly it will produce a good finish.- It won't win any awards but shouldn't
=0Amake me hide my head in shame either.=0A=0ABob=0A=0A=0A=0A_____________
___________________=0AFrom: ALFRED ROSA <fredorosa(at)gmail.com (fredorosa(at)gmail.com)>=0ATo: kis-lis
t(at)matronics.com (t(at)matronics.com)=0ASent: Sat, August 11, 2012 7:18:24 AM=0ASubject: Re: KIS-
List: Sanding, sanding, some more sanding and so on.=0A=0AWhat primer are y
ou using and what top coat paint? I've been rolling on UV =0ASmooth Prime (
Polyfiber) and like the way it fills and sands. I'm planning on a =0Awater
==== =0A
________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________
Time: 11:31:11 PM PST US
From: Scott Stearns <sstearns2(at)yahoo.com (sstearns2(at)yahoo.com)>
Subject: Re: Sanding, sanding, some more sanding and so on.
I primed and painted-my airplane outside.- My airport is also 100% no s
praying in hangars, but they did not care about outside.- I used the UV s
mooth prime with a roller initally, expensive waste of time.- I-sprayed
auto body high build primer and painted with PPG Delfleet with a $15 harbo
r freight gun.- The finish had a lot of orange peel, but remarkably littl
e dust/dirt.- I wetsanded and buffed the paint and it looks great.- I w
ould prime/paint outside again for sure.- I would-not try to-paint th
e whole plane at once, but spilt it up into wing, fuselage, and-everythin
g else on different days.-=0A-=0AScott=0A =0A=0A_______________________
_________=0A From: Robert Reed <robertr237(at)att.net (robertr237(at)att.net)>=0ATo: kis-list(at)matronic
s.com =0ASent: Saturday, August 11, 2012 8:09 PM=0ASubject: Re: S
anding, sanding, some more sanding and so on.=0A =0A=0AAl, =0A=0AI looked
at using UV Smooth Prime and the PolyFiber topcoat, the Stewart System, and
System Three Marine Paint system.- The UV Smooth Prime looked real good
for a primer but I found too many negatives on the PolyFiber for composites
that I backed off on using it.- I also have the issue now of not having
any available facilities for spray painting so will be forced to find an al
ternate way to finish.- The Steward system definately didn't recomend any
thing but HVLP spray.- =0A=0AI picked the System Three system because it
fully supported roll and tip or spraying.- I am using SilverTip Yacht Pr
imer.- It-is a waterborne, two-part epoxy coating specifically formulat
ed as a tough, below-the-waterline primer for marine topcoats.-- I figu
red if it would work for marine applications it should work well for aircra
ft use as well.- The primer does not contain a UV absorber.- It does go
on easily with a roller and flows out nicely if you make sure and keep you
r area within temperature range of 65-80 degrees with HIGH 80% humidity.-
I have my shop airconditioned and used wet towels, sprayed the floor and p
ut a wet towel over the airconditioner.- It raised the humidity level and
the primer spread out perfectly.- If you don't do this, the primer dries
so quickly that it will leave marks from the brush tip. =0A=0AFor the colo
r coats I will be useing System Three WR-LPU Topcoat.- It-is a two-part
linear polyurethane coating specifically formulated for maximum performanc
e and ease of use. Available in 12 standard colors as well as clear satin a
nd high gloss. When cured it is moisture, solvent and fuel resistant. WR-LP
U contains UV absorbers and will not yellow or lose gloss for years, depend
ing on exposure.- (Portions copied from lit)- Both primer and top coat
are water based.- The topcoat can use a crosslinker to produce a super ha
rd finish.- Thinning uses distilled water and the top coat does not requi
re mixing with other than water unless crosslinker is added which is only a
few drops per ounce.- The top color coat paint appears to be much thinne
r than the primer and with recommend water addition it should flow out much
better than the primer.- I will be doing some test parts in the next few
weeks to see how it flows out in various conditions.- =0A =0AMy plan is
to use the roll and tip to apply two coats of primer.- Sand the first two
coats to make sure of filling any minor low spots.- Follow with two addi
tional primer coats that will be sanded for top coat preparation.- I will
then add three coats of color top coats with crosslinker added again using
roll and tip.- I will let the color coats fully cure and then perform a
color sanding to remove any imperfectioins in the surface.- Finally, on t
hose parts that I can get to my shop for finish I will followup with two to
three coats of clear high gloss with the crosslinker again added.- I don
't expect to have to finish sand and buff the clear but will if needed.-
The fuselage is going to be a bigger problem since it is at the hangar and
can't be inclosed and protected for painting.- I also will have little co
ntrol over dust and humidity issues.- The plan...wait for a warm high hum
idity rainy week and spend a few days of misery trying to get the
paint on.- That will not come before late fall or early next spring.-
Dallas is just too darn dry. =0A=0AFinally, I know this is NOT the best way
to finish my plane.- That is a given but there are no paint facilities o
n my airport and the airport forbids painting (spray) in the hangars.- Ca
n't say I blame them.- Probably wouldn't make much difference if they did
, the electrical available to my bay won't even start my compressor.- So
my options are limited as are my funds for paying someone to put on a multi
-thousand dollar paint job.- It is both labor and time intensive but hope
fully it will produce a good finish.- It won't win any awards but shouldn
't make me hide my head in shame either. =0A=0ABob =0A=0A=0A=0A____________
____________________=0A From: ALFRED ROSA <fredorosa(at)gmail.com (fredorosa(at)gmail.com)>=0ATo: kis-l
ist(at)matronics.com (ist(at)matronics.com)=0ASent: Sat, August 11, 2012 7:18:24 AM=0ASubject: Re: KI
S-List: Sanding, sanding, some more sanding and so on.=0A=0AWhat primer are
you using and what top coat paint? I've been rolling on UV Smooth Prime (P
olyfiber) and like the way it fills and sands. I'm planning on a water base
top coat by Polyfiber also. =0A =0AAl=0A=0A=0A=0Ahttp:======
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