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Long term engine storage feedback

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jill(at)m-14p.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 6:03 am Post subject: Long term engine storage feedback

Andy,



We have had a lot of engines come through our shop that have been in

longterm storage and here is what I have seen:



1.  Richard is correct.  The cylinder walls are going to be the problem

area.  If you rotate the prop shaft and look inside of the cylinder, you may

see a patch of rust in the barrel.  Sometimes, it is surface rust but we

have pulled suspect cylinders and found the corrosion to be deeper than what

could be removed with a hone. This has been more the case with factory

overhauled engines than new manufacture. (Caution:  If you rotate the prop

shaft, you will disrupt the preservation process in the carb, air

compressor, mags and cylinders.)



2.  I advise my customers to replace the prop shaft seal on new, old stock

engines that have been sitting for 7-8+ years.  This is recommended for

convenience.  The last thing a new engine owner wants is a leaking prop

shaft seal, so I automatically change this on the engines we sell. (The

Russian rubber does not hold up well.) It is also inexpensive.



3.  When we have the nosecase off, it is not uncommon to see some light

corrosion on the cast magnesium case parts.  



Closely follow the depreservation process in the maintenance manual when you

are ready to use the engine.  Your first oil change should be pretty quick

after the first runs, as the preservative oil thickens with time.



The dessicant in the spark plug holes is very good.  Years ago, an outfit in

Kankakee advertised the 14mm plugs but I have never been able to get my

hands on them.



Pappy's oil consumption numbers are consistent with what we are seeing with

our high compression pistons/rings. (We also provide stock compression.)



Jill

M-14P, Inc.

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kendal(at)acronut.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 6:13 am Post subject: Long term engine storage feedback

Jill how should I preserve my engine that will be sitting for a few years.  I've sprayed inside the cylinders with LPS 3 but that's it so far.  Sounds like I should pour oil in them. What else can I do to preserve it?

Thanks

Kendal



On Aug 10, 2013, at 10:00, "Jill Gernetzke" <jill(at)m-14p.com> wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   

 

 

 Andy,

 

 We have had a lot of engines come through our shop that have been in

 longterm storage and here is what I have seen:

 

 1.  Richard is correct.  The cylinder walls are going to be the problem

 area.  If you rotate the prop shaft and look inside of the cylinder, you may

 see a patch of rust in the barrel.  Sometimes, it is surface rust but we

 have pulled suspect cylinders and found the corrosion to be deeper than what

 could be removed with a hone. This has been more the case with factory

 overhauled engines than new manufacture. (Caution:  If you rotate the prop

 shaft, you will disrupt the preservation process in the carb, air

 compressor, mags and cylinders.)

 

 2.  I advise my customers to replace the prop shaft seal on new, old stock

 engines that have been sitting for 7-8+ years.  This is recommended for

 convenience.  The last thing a new engine owner wants is a leaking prop

 shaft seal, so I automatically change this on the engines we sell. (The

 Russian rubber does not hold up well.) It is also inexpensive.

 

 3.  When we have the nosecase off, it is not uncommon to see some light

 corrosion on the cast magnesium case parts.  

 

 Closely follow the depreservation process in the maintenance manual when you

 are ready to use the engine.  Your first oil change should be pretty quick

 after the first runs, as the preservative oil thickens with time.

 

 The dessicant in the spark plug holes is very good.  Years ago, an outfit in

 Kankakee advertised the 14mm plugs but I have never been able to get my

 hands on them.

 

 Pappy's oil consumption numbers are consistent with what we are seeing with

 our high compression pistons/rings. (We also provide stock compression.)

 

 Jill

 M-14P, Inc.

- The Matronics Yak-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

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markdavis(at)wbsnet.org
Guest

Posted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 7:50 am Post subject: Long term engine storage feedback

Jill,

     Skygeek has them in stock. 

http://www.skygeek.com/dehydrator-plug-14mm-thread-ms3396-12.html

     Also, what is your opinion on fogging oil for preservation in lieu of 

pickling oil?  Or in combination with pickling oil where the oil doesn't 

contact the upper cavities of cylinders or the case?



Mark Davis

N44YK



---

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FatBoy

Joined: 21 Oct 2012
Posts: 19
Location: Nashville, TN

Posted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 3:19 am Post subject: Long term engine storage feedback

Thanks Gil  --  When I get to it (operative word: "when") I'll do the seal for sure.  I'd like to think the oil that was poured into the cylinders could fight off any rust, but again, I've never been down this road before.



Thanks again for the feedback  --



Andy

On Aug 10, 2013, at 9:00 AM, Jill Gernetzke wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   

 

 

 Andy,

 

 We have had a lot of engines come through our shop that have been in

 longterm storage and here is what I have seen:

 

 1.  Richard is correct.  The cylinder walls are going to be the problem

 area.  If you rotate the prop shaft and look inside of the cylinder, you may

 see a patch of rust in the barrel.  Sometimes, it is surface rust but we

 have pulled suspect cylinders and found the corrosion to be deeper than what

 could be removed with a hone. This has been more the case with factory

 overhauled engines than new manufacture. (Caution:  If you rotate the prop

 shaft, you will disrupt the preservation process in the carb, air

 compressor, mags and cylinders.)

 

 2.  I advise my customers to replace the prop shaft seal on new, old stock

 engines that have been sitting for 7-8+ years.  This is recommended for

 convenience.  The last thing a new engine owner wants is a leaking prop

 shaft seal, so I automatically change this on the engines we sell. (The

 Russian rubber does not hold up well.) It is also inexpensive.

 

 3.  When we have the nosecase off, it is not uncommon to see some light

 corrosion on the cast magnesium case parts.  

 

 Closely follow the depreservation process in the maintenance manual when you

 are ready to use the engine.  Your first oil change should be pretty quick

 after the first runs, as the preservative oil thickens with time.

 

 The dessicant in the spark plug holes is very good.  Years ago, an outfit in

 Kankakee advertised the 14mm plugs but I have never been able to get my

 hands on them.

 

 Pappy's oil consumption numbers are consistent with what we are seeing with

 our high compression pistons/rings. (We also provide stock compression.)

 

 Jill

 M-14P, Inc.

- The Matronics Yak-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List

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