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davgray(at)sbcglobal.net
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 Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 4:07 am Post subject: Drill bits - recommendations |
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All drill bits are not the same. Many require much higher feed pressures
even though they cost 3X.
I found a huge difference between the standard High speed black steel bits
that are the most common and inexpensive vs the high end triple price bits
that are more optimized for harder metals. Also supply houses do not seem
to know there is a difference so they will sell a bit that requires such a
high feed pressure that they will dent the thin base metal before starting
the cut.
I had the best luck with sharp standard high speed black steel bit from Home
Depo. Always start with a small bit 3/32 and work your way up. A higher
RPM produces less burring of the hole. A good hole is made with the right
bit and feed pressure.
At $1.68 each replace them when dull. I used about 24 1/8 inch bits for the
entire aircraft and 12 - 5/16 inch and 24 - 3/32 inch. Plus a 1/8 x 18 inch
bit and one 5/16 x 18 inch bit and a set of very short bits that came with a
flex drive for those tight fit or retrofit areas that need to be drilled out
and redone.
The air tools are nice because the RPM is higher but I have to admit that I
used the cordless drill a lot.
Other items include:
A bandsaw with a wide throat, a Delta 8 inch disc sander w/ a 1 inch x 42
inch belt sander, a deep throated drill press, a good fly cutter, rapid
deburring tools, and several sizes of fine toothed files, a good vise, three
good levels (2 foot, 4 foot, and laser), 4,8,& 12 foot straight edge of
aluminum strips w/ marks for 20mm 30mm 40mm, 50mm rivet spacing, metric tape
measure, english tape measure, good Weiss metal shears, Olfa knife, lots of
clamps and clecos, and and a perfectly flat and square 14 foot x 4 foot
table. I had the pneumatic rivet puller and preferred the hand pullers even
on bigger jobs. It takes about one hour to actually do the final riveting
of one entire wing surface by hand. You don't need to set all of the rivets
at one time. Setting the final rivets are one of the more enjoyable parts
of building. After hours/days/weeks of prep work you might want to savor
this part.
Gary Ray
601XL 59 hrTT
davgray(at)sbcglobal.net
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RWILBERS(at)tampabay.rr.c
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| Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 6:32 pm Post subject: Drill bits - recommendations |
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Gary,
You are so right. There are many differeny type drills available for general
use today. The best drill for aircraft work in alumnim is a split point
jobbers length drill made to NAS 907 Type A or B standards. The points are
split so that there is a 4 degree positive chisel angle on the center or
"chisel" of the drill. This also relieves the heel to give you an immediate
penetration. This reduces end thrust requirements by about 40%. This means
that the drill will be less apt to "walk", and it usually penetrates where
you put it. As a result of the decreased thrust requirements it might even
last longer under normal usage.
The NAS 907 type C has the same point but it is called a screw machine
length drill, and it is shorter than the jobbers length drill and easier to
use "free handed".
You can ffind these on the inernet at MSC Supply.
Best Regards..................................................Dick W.
---
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n4546v(at)mindspring.com
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| Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 7:12 pm Post subject: Drill bits - recommendations |
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Do not archive
| Quote: | From the archives:
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The two most common twist drill types off the shelf are:
1. High speed steel, 118 degree point angle, standard chisel point.
2. Cobalt steel, 135 degree point angle, split point.
The standard chisel point tends to "walk" when started into work without
center punching. The split point is considered self centering and center
punching for hole location is not required. Cobalt steel is high speed
steel with 6 to 8 percent cobalt added which makes it more wear resistant,
giving more holes between sharpenings. Although either type works well in
standard materials, for the small price difference, I always buy the cobalt
split points.
For a detailed article on drill point geometry, including altering drills to
drill plexiglass, try this link:
http://www.newmantools.com/machines/drillpoint.html
Regards,
Randy, Las Vegas
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kmccune
Joined: 22 Sep 2007
Posts: 577
Location: Wisconsin, USA
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| Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 4:17 am Post subject: Re: Drill bits - recommendations |
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I'll second (or maybe third or fourth as I didn't count) the split drill bit comments. I use to have a side business building custom electrical panels and the Split points outlast and out perform the chisel point ones. Plus as stated they don't require pre-drilling a pilot hole.
Kevin
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_________________
“Always do what you are afraid to do.”
R.W. Emerson (1803-1882)
"Real freedom is the sustained act of being an individual." WW - 2009
"Life is a good deal...it's worth it" Feb 1969
Dorothy McCune |
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planecrazydld(at)yahoo.co
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| Posted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 8:11 am Post subject: Drill bits - recommendations |
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don't forget that the final hole size is reamed to a numbered bit diameter: 3/32" to #40, 1/8 to #30, 5/32 to #20, etc. The final hole size is one of the factors that directly affects the designed structural capacity of the subsequently installed rivet and the joint being assembled.
Gary Ray <davgray(at)sbcglobal.net> wrote:[quote] --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Gary Ray"
All drill bits are not the same. Many require much higher feed pressures
even though they cost 3X.
I found a huge difference between the standard High speed black steel bits
that are the most common and inexpensive vs the high end triple price bits
that are more optimized for harder metals. Also supply houses do not seem
to know there is a difference so they will sell a bit that requires such a
high feed pressure that they will dent the thin base metal before starting
the cut.
I had the best luck with sharp standard high speed black steel bit from Home
Depo. Always start with a small bit 3/32 and work your way up. A higher
RPM produces less burring of the hole. A good hole is made with the right
bit and feed pressure.
At $1.68 each replace them when dull. I used about 24 1/8 inch bits for the
entire aircraft and 12 - 5/16 inch and 24 - 3/32 inch. Plus a 1/8 x 18 inch
bit and one 5/16 x 18 inch bit and a set of very short bits that came with a
flex drive for those tight fit or retrofit areas that need to be drilled out
and redone.
The air tools are nice because the RPM is higher but I have to admit that I
used the cordless drill a lot.
Other items include:
A bandsaw with a wide throat, a Delta 8 inch disc sander w/ a 1 inch x 42
inch belt sander, a deep throated drill press, a good fly cutter, rapid
deburring tools, [quote][b]
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ashontz
Joined: 27 Dec 2006
Posts: 723
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| Posted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 7:35 am Post subject: Re: Drill bits - recommendations |
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Not exactly related to drill bits, more drilling itself. Has anyone used a dremel tool for drilling? I tried it on my wing skins and I was very happy with it. Less weight to hold up there so backstrain is reduced. Also less chance of dropping a heavy drill on a skin and denting it. In fact I like it so much I'm going to try the cable extender on the dremel so I'm working with only the little light tip on the wand. Works very well for pilot holes and of course stepping up to the next size after a pilot hole doesn't require as much force so the light drill wand works well for that too. Plus, the dremel makes for a nice fast drill speed. Just a thought for anyone looking for less of a full body workout while drilling. It's about as taxing as using a dentist's drill.
do not archive.
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planecrazydld(at)yahoo.co
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| Posted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 12:41 pm Post subject: Drill bits - recommendations |
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I used to have a lovely little 3 jawchuck that treaded directly onto the collet socket on my dremel. You are right - it makes for surgical drilling experiences.
ashontz <ashontz(at)nbme.org> wrote: [quote]--> Zenith-List message posted by: "ashontz"
Not exactly related to drill bits, more drilling itself. Has anyone used a dremel tool for drilling? I tried it on my wing skins and I was very happy with it. Less weight to hold up there so backstrain is reduced. Also less chance of dropping a heavy drill on a skin and denting it. In fact I like it so much I'm going to try the cable extender on the dremel so I'm working with only the little light tip on the wand. Works very well for pilot holes and of course stepping up to the next size after a pilot hole doesn't require as much force so the light drill wand works well for that too. Be a better friend, newshound, and [quote][b]
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ashontz
Joined: 27 Dec 2006
Posts: 723
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| Posted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 6:14 pm Post subject: Re: Drill bits - recommendations |
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I have one of those that fits my Black and decker dremel but not one that fits my Ryobi dremel wand attachment. I may make an adapter. I'd really like to use the wand, but the dremels in general make excellent little drills for this type of work.
[quote="planecrazydld(at)yahoo.co"]I used to have a lovely little 3 jawchuck that treaded directly onto the collet socket on my dremel. You are right - it makes for surgical drilling experiences.
ashontz <ashontz> wrote: [quote]--> Zenith-List message posted by: "ashontz"
Not exactly related to drill bits, more drilling itself. Has anyone used a dremel tool for drilling? I tried it on my wing skins and I was very happy with it. Less weight to hold up there so backstrain is reduced. Also less chance of dropping a heavy drill on a skin and denting it. In fact I like it so much I'm going to try the cable extender on the dremel so I'm working with only the little light tip on the wand. Works very well for pilot holes and of course stepping up to the next size after a pilot hole doesn't require as much force so the light drill wand works well for that too. Be a better friend, newshound, and
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