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Brake lines and Hydrauli fire: Plumbing Material

 
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skylor4(at)yahoo.com
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 9:42 am    Post subject: Brake lines and Hydrauli fire: Plumbing Material Reply with quote

Ed,

Which type of aluminum tubing were your original brake
lines fabricated from?

I assume that most builders use the crappy soft tubing
that Van's provides with their kits. I can't bring
myself to use this stuff for fuel and brake lines.

In my RV-8, I'm using 5052-0 for all fuel and brake
lines. This stuff has much better strength AND
fatigue properties than the soft tubing that Van's
provides and should be less prone to work hardening &
fatigue failure.

Skylor
RV-8 N808SJ
Under Construction

--- Ed Anderson <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> wrote:

[quote] Hi Linn,

Actually, I was surprised at the location of the
break in the line, myself. I would have though the
flare would be the most likely place. All flares
were made with aircraft quality 37deg flaring tools.


But, in my case, a chunk of the line blew out,
about 1/2 the circumference of the tube and about 1"
long - simply blew the side wall out of the tube
back about 3" from the Flare. I'll try to post
some photos in the photo section of the list.

I suspect that I may have work harden the tube in
that area by trying to get the loop around the axis
correct - or it could have possibly been nicked or
otherwise damaged. However, after thinking about
it, I decided that having a length of aluminum
tubing which does not have the best fatigue life
designed to flex as the calipers moved in and out
was not the best approach. Yes, I know, hundreds of
folks have used it with no problem - that not
withstanding, aluminum tubing fatigues fairly easily
and I decided to eliminate it in my brake lines.


The Cleveland part number for the thicker rotors is
164-09900. I purchased an equivalent pair from
Chief Aircraft made by RAPPCO part number
RA164-09900. Aircraft Spruce sells the complete
199-93 kit which when I checked will cost you
around $300 for basically 2 rotor discs, some shims,
the brake linings and some labels to put on your
wheels.upgrade kit.

I purchased the two rotors from chief for $140 for
the pair. Be advised you will need a 1/8" spacer to
fit between the two caliper pieces to accommodate
the thicker disc - Cleveland wanted $85 EACH for a
1/8" thick piece of aluminum with two holes drilled
in it - the spacer. I made mine out of 6061T6
aluminum I had laying around. Took me about 45
minutes as you need to shape the inner side of the
spacer so it matches the curve of the disc.

Everything will fit inside the old (pre-pressure
recovery) wheel pants, but you will probably need to
remake your wheel pant bracket - I made new ones out
of SS sheet - the old ones might work, but you have
to space it out further from the wheel due to the
thicker rotor and then the wheelpant attachment
screws hole may not line up with the bracket
nutplates. You will need to make new bracket
spacers and add 1/8" to the length of those aluminum
tube spacers that stand the brackets off of the
wheel.

The brakes feel much firmer, I get no brake fade
even under heavy braking and I have not smelled any
indication that the brakes are getting as hot as
they once did. Theoretically having twice as much
metal to absorb the heat, the temps should be lower.

Hope this helps

Ed



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Ed Anderson



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 475

PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 10:38 am    Post subject: Brake lines and Hydrauli fire: Plumbing Material Reply with quote

Yes, Skylor

I used whatever VAn sent in the kit - I think 3030 - but not certain. I
know this has worked for hundreds (if not thousands) but, it clearly can
fail (for whatever reason). The 5052 stuff would appear to be better
suited. But, I just found the idea of the flexible stainless steel braided
Teflon lines appealed more than any metal lines - particularly after the
fire.

An perhaps interesting side line is that 2 year previous, I had accidentally
drilled into the brake line on the opposite side and got the SS braided line
to replace them both. I was lazy and only replaced the damaged line with
the SS and left the aluminum tube on the other line - which I had not
procrastinated and had replace it as well {:>)

Ed
---


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_________________
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson@carolina.rr.com
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