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		bradfnp(at)msn.com Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2008 6:59 pm    Post subject: Painting the cabin | 
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				I am working on the cabin floor and wing center section. I am assuming that 
 now (or very soon) would be the best time to pain the interior of the 
 cockpit. I have a pretty good idea of my color choices but my question is 
 more of a "how-to". how do I prep, prime and paint the cockpit?
 I am using the cortec primer that came with the kit (instead of Zinc 
 Chromate) so I assume the painting system is a personal choice (such as 
 Randolph, poly-tone, etc.)
 
 Prep with 3M pads then clean with MEK, but beyond that.....what? Do I use a 
 premixed system such as polytone? or enamel with a reducer (whatever the 
 hell that is), such as randolph?
 
 Any suggestions?
 
 Brad Cohen
 XL/TD slow-build kit
 
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		GLJSOJ1
 
 
  Joined: 18 Aug 2007 Posts: 82 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
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				 Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 5:42 am    Post subject: Re: Painting the cabin | 
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				Hi Brad
 
 I used Zinc Chromate on mine, cleaned it with Lacquer thinner and used a scotch bright pad to rough it up.  Every place that I used this approach the paint (Krylon Sandstone Texture) is staying on fine.  Any place where I didn't get the zinc on good, it rubs right off.  I did the parts before I riveted it together for the most part, but some was done after it was all done.
 
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  _________________ 601XL N676L  FLYING PHASE I
 
CHESAPEAKE VA | 
			 
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		dredmoody(at)cox.net Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 6:37 am    Post subject: Painting the cabin | 
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				Likewise I elected to clean, prime, and paint every interior surface when it was completely ready to rivet in place so that the subsequent assembly would be done with parts that needed no further painting. It is much easier to do a good job on a piece of metal lying on a sawhorse rather than after it is rivetted inside a confined cabin.
 
 I used laquer thinner to clean the surface, then primed with Rustoleum Automotive self etching primer from rattle cans. The top coat is the compatible Rustoleum Automotive color coat also from rattle cans. No sctochbrite scuffing and so far very good adhesion. I figure if the microscopic grip of ecthing the metal surface isn't strong enough to hold the paint, a bunch of shallow scratches aren't going to help very much. On top of that, if you use the wrong color scotchbrite you will certainly crash and burn.
 
 Dred
 
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		n85ae
 
 
  Joined: 14 Mar 2007 Posts: 403
 
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				 Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 7:22 am    Post subject: Re: Painting the cabin | 
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				I would forgo the cortec in the cockpit area as it is not very durable. System
 three makes a 2-part waterborne epoxy primer, and a 2-part polyurethane
 paint system. It is a bunch tougher than cortec. It is used a lot in the marine
 industry.
 
 go to http://www.systemthree.com and look up wr-155 primer, and wr-lpu
 polyurethane.
 
 http://www.jamestowndistributors.com sells it as well
 
 Regards,
 Jeff
 
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		n85ae
 
 
  Joined: 14 Mar 2007 Posts: 403
 
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				 Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 7:30 am    Post subject: Re: Painting the cabin | 
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				One other thing, prep the paint areas with 400 grit silicon carbide sandpaper
 and the paint will stick a LOT better. Scothbrite works fine for cleaning, but
 won't do anything for helping the paint stick since it need some tooth. A
 phosphoric acid etch is best, but difficult to do in the cockpit assemblies
 as post etch washing would be difficult.
 
 You can use alchohol for cleaning if you're enviro conscious, or better use
 MEK when the eco-police (wife) isn't looking.
 
 I experimented a lot with Cortec, and it will not sustain a duct tape peel
 test, unless you do a VERY thorough pre-priming prep job. ... So unless you want your cockpit full of peeling paint I would not 
 use Cortec.
 
 Regards,
 Jeff
 
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		rjscep(at)yahoo.com Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 10:14 am    Post subject: Painting the cabin | 
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				 	  | Quote: | 	 		   Sherwin-Williams has a self etching primer spray.
  I would also use the Aluminum etch too and wash it
  off thouroly, I find that works well....do not 
  archive
 --- Brad Cohen <bradfnp(at)msn.com> wrote:
 | 	  
 
  	  | Quote: | 	 		   
  <bradfnp(at)msn.com>
  
  I am working on the cabin floor and wing center
  section. I am assuming that 
  now (or very soon) would be the best time to pain
  the interior of the 
  cockpit. I have a pretty good idea of my color
  choices but my question is 
  more of a "how-to". how do I prep, prime and paint
  the cockpit?
  I am using the cortec primer that came with the kit
  (instead of Zinc 
  Chromate) so I assume the painting system is a
  personal choice (such as 
  Randolph, poly-tone, etc.)
  
  Prep with 3M pads then clean with MEK, but beyond
  that.....what? Do I use a 
  premixed system such as polytone? or enamel with a
  reducer (whatever the 
  hell that is), such as randolph?
  
  Any suggestions?
  
  Brad Cohen
  XL/TD slow-build kit
  
  
  
 
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 Never miss a thing.  Make Yahoo your home page. 
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		eldenej(at)yahoo.com Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 10:42 am    Post subject: Painting the cabin | 
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				And what is the correct color?
    
   Elden J.
   xl/3300
 
 dredmoody(at)cox.net wrote:
   [quote]--> Zenith-List message posted by: 
 
 Likewise I elected to clean, prime, and paint every interior surface when it was completely ready to rivet in place so that the subsequent assembly would be done with parts that needed no further painting. It is much easier to do a good job on a piece of metal lying on a sawhorse rather than after it is rivetted inside a confined cabin.
 
 I used laquer thinner to clean the surface, then primed with Rustoleum Automotive self etching primer from rattle cans. The top coat is the compatible Rustoleum Automotive color coat also from rattle cans. No sctochbrite scuffing and so far very good adhesion. I figure if the microscopic grip of ecthing the metal surface       Be a better friend, newshound, and  [quote][b]
 
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		dredmoody(at)cox.net Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 11:02 am    Post subject: Painting the cabin | 
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				Legend has it that if you use green scotchbrite on your aluminum all your children will be born naked.
 
 Dred
 
 ---- Elden Jacobson <eldenej(at)yahoo.com> wrote: 
  	  | Quote: | 	 		   And what is the correct color?
     
    Elden J.
    xl/3300
  
  dredmoody(at)cox.net wrote:
    
  
  Likewise I elected to clean, prime, and paint every interior surface when it was completely ready to rivet in place so that the subsequent assembly would be done with parts that needed no further painting. It is much easier to do a good job on a piece of metal lying on a sawhorse rather than after it is rivetted inside a confined cabin.
  
  I used laquer thinner to clean the surface, then primed with Rustoleum Automotive self etching primer from rattle cans. The top coat is the compatible Rustoleum Automotive color coat also from rattle cans. No sctochbrite scuffing and so far very good adhesion. I figure if the microscopic grip of ecthing the metal surface isn't strong enough to hold the paint, a bunch of shallow scratches aren't going to help very much. On top of that, if you use the wrong color scotchbrite you will certainly crash and burn.
  
  Dred
  
  
  
  
  
  
         
  ---------------------------------
  Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.
 
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