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Batteries in Series

 
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paulmillner



Joined: 09 May 2007
Posts: 21
Location: Berkeley, California

PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 3:42 pm    Post subject: Batteries in Series Reply with quote

Hi Bob,

I enjoyed reading your recent discussion of paralleling batteries.

Instead, I'm wondering about converting one of my two alternators to 24
volt (28 volt, whatever nominal voltage you prefer!) to charge two 12
volt batteries in series. That will allow me to install the air
conditioner (!) I want, which only comes in a 24 volt version. I'd
leave the ship at 12 volts, and power those loads from the inter-battery
connection.

I'd connect the remaining 12 volt alternator to that "lower" battery as
well.

Let's say the 12 volt battery is offline and the 28 volt alternator is
cranking away... the "upper" battery will eventually get fully
charged... the upper batter will then just be a wet piece of wire (kind
of) to the 12 volt load? Or would there be a problem with the lower
battery not getting charged enough, or the upper batter overcharged?

Paul, making my head hurt mode


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2008 9:00 am    Post subject: Batteries in Series Reply with quote

Air conditioning!

Wuss.

Rick Lindstrom

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2008 10:40 am    Post subject: Batteries in Series Reply with quote

At 03:38 PM 2/23/2008 -0800, you wrote:

Quote:

<paulmillner(at)compuserve.com>

Hi Bob,

I enjoyed reading your recent discussion of paralleling batteries.

Instead, I'm wondering about converting one of my two alternators to 24
volt (28 volt, whatever nominal voltage you prefer!) to charge two 12 volt
batteries in series. That will allow me to install the air conditioner
(!) I want, which only comes in a 24 volt version. I'd leave the ship at
12 volts, and power those loads from the inter-battery connection.

I'd connect the remaining 12 volt alternator to that "lower" battery as well.

Let's say the 12 volt battery is offline and the 28 volt alternator is
cranking away... the "upper" battery will eventually get fully charged...
the upper batter will then just be a wet piece of wire (kind of) to the 12
volt load? Or would there be a problem with the lower battery not getting
charged enough, or the upper batter overcharged?

Paul, making my head hurt mode

This is an intuitively attractive idea but
fraught with many potholes in the physics
of implementation.

The only time that a battery benefits the
operation of the 28v system is to support
inrush currents for getting the compressor
motor going. If the 28v alternator only
runs the AC compressor motor, then I'm thinking
you could craft a controller/regulator that would
let the alternator drive the motor directly without
a battery. This pre-supposes that the compressor
motor will soft-start at torque levels that
do not exceed the upper limits of the alternator's
magnetics.

I think this is the case. It would be relatively
easy to demonstrate on a drive stand before
going after the controller/regulator design.

Given that you have a mechanical connection
to the engine to drive a dedicated alternator,
the obvious elegant solution is to drive the
compressor from this location and eliminate
an alternator, a regulator/controller, a
compressor drive motor and possibly a second
battery.

Believe me, we pondered this question multiple
times at Beech for about 40 years . . . and
the slickest way to do it is put the compressor
right on the engine.

Bob . . .

----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2008 12:13 pm    Post subject: Batteries in Series Reply with quote

Paul (and List),

Drawing 12v from the center of a 12+12v string won't work, at least not for
long. We tried that on an MCI bus at our church -- a small 12v load
FLATTENED the battery it was connected across, even though the 28v regulator
was holding solid and the other battery was fully charged. We finally found
a battery equalizer from MCI and it solved the problem. See
http://www.powerdesigners.com/powercheq.htm for an equalizer suitable for a
plane.

Blue skies and tailwinds

Jim
CH-801
DeltaHawk diesel
Augusta GA
90% done, 90% left


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paulmillner



Joined: 09 May 2007
Posts: 21
Location: Berkeley, California

PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2008 12:50 pm    Post subject: Re: Batteries in Series Reply with quote

>> fraught with many potholes in the physics of implementation

Bob,
I see Jim's note about the failure of a series battery loaded at the center tap. What are the physics that allow the series to appear to have 28 volts while the lower battery is flat?

Paul


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paulmillner



Joined: 09 May 2007
Posts: 21
Location: Berkeley, California

PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2008 12:53 pm    Post subject: Re: Batteries in Series Reply with quote

>> We finally found a battery equalizer from MCI and it solved the problem.

Not sure what an MCI bus is, Jim, but thanks for the data point and the point out of the equalizer site. Looks like the equalizer can handle 2 amps, so if your tiny load is that or less, on average, the lower battery can stay charged... but I'm not sure I understand how the series battery could appear to be charged to 24 volts with the lower battery flat?

Paul


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2008 2:03 pm    Post subject: Batteries in Series Reply with quote

As a battery get's old it's internal resistance increases.
The bad battery is just going to get warm when you apply the 28 volt across
both batteries. It will drop the voltage as an I*R loss.

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paulmillner



Joined: 09 May 2007
Posts: 21
Location: Berkeley, California

PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2008 4:47 pm    Post subject: Re: Batteries in Series Reply with quote

>> As a battery gets old its internal resistance increases.
The bad battery is just going to get warm when you apply the 28 volt across both batteries. It will drop the voltage as an I*R loss.

Isn't that EXACTLY what you want to see happen? Drop 12 volts across the "upper" battery to impose 12 volts on the lower battery that's feeding a 12 volt load.

Is it your position, then, that this would work with new batteries but not with old batteries? That doesn't seem intuitive.

Paul


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rjquillin



Joined: 13 May 2007
Posts: 123
Location: KSEE

PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2008 6:29 pm    Post subject: Batteries in Series Reply with quote

At 15:38 2/23/2008, you wrote:
Quote:
Let's say the 12 volt battery is offline and the 28 volt alternator
is cranking away... the "upper" battery will eventually get fully
charged... the upper batter will then just be a wet piece of wire
(kind of) to the 12 volt load? Or would there be a problem with the
lower battery not getting charged enough, or the upper batter overcharged?

I'm not sure I've seen mentioned just what type battery is in use.

But I suggest, at least for a flooded cell battery, that each cell is
isolated from it's neighbors, that is it is a single ~1.5 volt
unit. If that premise is accurate, just how is a charging system to
know the physical packaging of the 12 cells it is charging? One
package x 12 or two packages x 6 each... Dead, weak or otherwise
'different' cells are just that, no matter where in the series of
cells they occur, and the charging system couldn't care less.

Ron Q.


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paulmillner



Joined: 09 May 2007
Posts: 21
Location: Berkeley, California

PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2008 7:42 pm    Post subject: Re: Batteries in Series Reply with quote

>> Dead, weak or otherwise 'different' cells are just that, no matter where in the series of cells they occur, and the charging system couldn't care less.

The difference, Ron, is that we're serving some 12 volt load from the "middle" of the battery... which is a bit of a cell equalization challenge.

Paul


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2008 10:14 pm    Post subject: Batteries in Series Reply with quote

When every you try to charge two batteries in series that are not similar
(Size, Capacity, Discharge State, Overall Condition ... all the same) you
often get improper charging. This is because the current needed to charge
each battery to the charged level is different, but since they are in series
they will be getting the same current. As you try to pump more current
through the good battery you get a full 12V from the good battery plus it's
IR loss which will cause a lower than needed voltage on the battery that
needs to be charged. Hence it will deteriorate over time.

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