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		bwestfall
 
 
  Joined: 22 Oct 2008 Posts: 131 Location: Portland, OR
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				 Posted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 6:47 pm    Post subject: rivethead door block installation help | 
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				My question for those of you that have installed the rivethead-aero door blocks… How did you make them fit?    
    
 I’ve trimmed the door pin tubing flush at the base of van’s angle cut so the ends are square to accept the threaded magnetic tip.  With the door handle completely retracted the tips still stick out past the delrin guide blocks on the doors.  There is barely enough clearance between the retracted door pins and the fiberglass top w/o the rivethead blocks installed.    
    
 I don’t want to trim the door pins any shorter or they won’t protrude through the holes in the fuselage door frame very much.  I’d assume for strength reasons you really want the closing force on the door pin tubing not the threaded in tip.  I can thin the rivethead blocks down 50% or so but I’d bet they would still be too wide to get past the pins.  
    
 Curious what others have done?  
    
 -Ben Westfall  
 #40579   
    
 I have to say the doors are a boat load of work that never ends…  
    
    
 
 __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 3755 (20090109) __________
 
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		rnewman(at)tcwtech.com Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 7:09 pm    Post subject: rivethead door block installation help | 
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				Ben,  I installed the rivethead pins and  blocks.   I trimed the tubes so the magnetic head protruded about .050  past the delrin block on the doors,   then I machined the back off the  receiver blocks until I had the proper clearance for closing the  doors,   If I remeber correctly, I machined about 0.100 off of each  receiver blocks.
   
  -Bob Newman
   
   
   
  [quote]   ---
 
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		bwestfall
 
 
  Joined: 22 Oct 2008 Posts: 131 Location: Portland, OR
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				 Posted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 7:37 pm    Post subject: rivethead door block installation help | 
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				So when you latch the door to the locked position do your door pins protrude through the aluminum of the fuselage or are they only in the receiver blocks?  
          
   
     
 Ben,  I installed the rivethead pins and blocks.   I trimed the tubes so the magnetic head protruded about .050 past the delrin block on the doors,   then I machined the back off the receiver blocks until I had the proper clearance for closing the doors,   If I remeber correctly, I machined about 0.100 off of each receiver blocks.  
     
    
     
 -Bob Newman  
     
    
     
    
     
    
    	  | Quote: | 	 		    
 My question for those of you that have installed the rivethead-aero door blocks… How did you make them fit?    
    
 I’ve trimmed the door pin tubing flush at the base of van’s angle cut so the ends are square to accept the threaded magnetic tip.  With the door handle completely retracted the tips still stick out past the delrin guide blocks on the doors.  There is barely enough clearance between the retracted door pins and the fiberglass top w/o the rivethead blocks installed.    
    
 I don’t want to trim the door pins any shorter or they won’t protrude through the holes in the fuselage door frame very much.  I’d assume for strength reasons you really want the closing force on the door pin tubing not the threaded in tip.  I can thin the rivethead blocks down 50% or so but I’d bet they would still be too wide to get past the pins.  
    
 Curious what others have done?  
    
 -Ben Westfall  
 #40579   
    
 I have to say the doors are a boat load of work that never ends…  
     | 	    
    
 
 __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 3755 (20090109) __________
 
 The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
 
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		pascal(at)rv10builder.net Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 8:02 pm    Post subject: rivethead door block installation help | 
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				Ben; 
  with my ends basically are .050 passed the blocks/ close to  flush with the seals where the round tip is protruding. I go through the  fusellage about half-way of the magnetic pin in the closed position. I'll  confirm this weekend.
  I'll need to measure the blocks but I estimate that there is a  fair amount that gets removed to fit when I put the delrin (stock) blocks next  to the aftermarket blocks. I have the Iflyrv10 version.
  Pascal
   
   
 
   From: Ben Westfall (rv10(at)sinkrate.com) 
  Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 7:33 PM
  To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com) 
  Subject: RE: rivethead door block installation  help
  
 
   
 So when you latch the  door to the locked position do your door pins protrude through the aluminum of  the fuselage or are they only in the receiver  blocks? 
      
 
   
 Ben,  I installed the rivethead  pins and blocks.   I trimed the tubes so the magnetic head protruded  about .050 past the delrin block on the doors,   then I machined the  back off the receiver blocks until I had the proper clearance for closing the  doors,   If I remeber correctly, I machined about 0.100 off of each  receiver blocks.
   
  
   
 -Bob  Newman
   
  
   
  
   
  
   	  | Quote: | 	 		     
 My question for those of you that    have installed the rivethead-aero door blocks… How did you make them fit?        
     
 I’ve trimmed the door pin tubing    flush at the base of van’s angle cut so the ends are square to accept the    threaded magnetic tip.  With the door handle completely retracted the    tips still stick out past the delrin guide blocks on the doors.  There is    barely enough clearance between the retracted door pins and the fiberglass top    w/o the rivethead blocks installed.     
     
 I don’t want to trim the door pins    any shorter or they won’t protrude through the holes in the fuselage door    frame very much.  I’d assume for strength reasons you really want the    closing force on the door pin tubing not the threaded in tip.  I can thin    the rivethead blocks down 50% or so but I’d bet they would still be too wide    to get past the pins.   
     
 Curious what others have    done?   
     
 -Ben    Westfall   
 #40579       
     
 I have to say the doors are a boat    load of work that never ends…   
   | 	  
 __________  Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 3755  (20090109) __________
 
 The message was checked by ESET NOD32  Antivirus.
 
 http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List 
 Web Forums! 
 href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com -Matt 
 href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution 
 =========== [/b][quote][b]
 
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		Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.co Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 10:46 pm    Post subject: rivethead door block installation help | 
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				Ben,
   
  I was able to rig the pins so they went through the  blocks and the door frame.  I let the pin protrude from the door about  3/16" when it's fully retracted.  It still clears the door frame, and it  gives the pin a little head start to fully engage the frame.
   
  I also put two additional notches in the  plate that catches the rollpin/stop so the handle "locks" not just in the closed  position but also in the fully open position.  The stock notches are are  roughly 9:00 and 3:00.  The new notches are at about 12:00 and  6:00.
   
   
  
 
    From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com  [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben  Westfall
 Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 7:34 PM
 To:  rv10-list(at)matronics.com
 Subject: RE: rivethead door block  installation help
  
   
 So when you latch the  door to the locked position do your door pins protrude through the aluminum of  the fuselage or are they only in the receiver  blocks? 
      
 
   
 Ben,  I installed the rivethead  pins and blocks.   I trimed the tubes so the magnetic head protruded  about .050 past the delrin block on the doors,   then I machined the  back off the receiver blocks until I had the proper clearance for closing the  doors,   If I remeber correctly, I machined about 0.100 off of each  receiver blocks.
   
  
   
 -Bob  Newman
   
  
   
  
   
  
   	  | Quote: | 	 		     
 My question for those of you that    have installed the rivethead-aero door blocks… How did you make them fit?        
     
 I’ve trimmed the door pin tubing    flush at the base of van’s angle cut so the ends are square to accept the    threaded magnetic tip.  With the door handle completely retracted the    tips still stick out past the delrin guide blocks on the doors.  There is    barely enough clearance between the retracted door pins and the fiberglass top    w/o the rivethead blocks installed.     
     
 I don’t want to trim the door pins    any shorter or they won’t protrude through the holes in the fuselage door    frame very much.  I’d assume for strength reasons you really want the    closing force on the door pin tubing not the threaded in tip.  I can thin    the rivethead blocks down 50% or so but I’d bet they would still be too wide    to get past the pins.   
     
 Curious what others have    done?   
     
 -Ben    Westfall   
 #40579       
     
 I have to say the doors are a boat    load of work that never ends…   
   | 	  
 __________  Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 3755  (20090109) __________
 
 The message was checked by ESET NOD32  Antivirus.
 
 http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List 
 Web Forums! 
 href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com -Matt 
 href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution 
 =========== [/b][quote][b]
 
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		pascal(at)rv10builder.net Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 7:21 am    Post subject: rivethead door block installation help | 
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				From: pascal (pascal(at)rv10builder.net) 
  Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 7:59 PM
  To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com) 
  Subject: Re: rivethead door block installation  help
  
 
  Ben; 
  with my ends basically are .050 passed the blocks/ close to  flush with the seals where the round tip is protruding. I go through the  fusellage about half-way of the magnetic pin in the closed position. I'll  confirm this weekend.
  I'll need to measure the blocks but I estimate that there is a  fair amount that gets removed to fit when I put the delrin (stock) blocks next  to the aftermarket blocks. I have the Iflyrv10 version.
  Pascal
   
   
 
   From: Ben Westfall (rv10(at)sinkrate.com) 
  Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 7:33 PM
  To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com) 
  Subject: RE: rivethead door block installation  help
  
 
   
 So when you latch the  door to the locked position do your door pins protrude through the aluminum of  the fuselage or are they only in the receiver  blocks? 
      
 
   
 Ben,  I installed the rivethead  pins and blocks.   I trimed the tubes so the magnetic head protruded  about .050 past the delrin block on the doors,   then I machined the  back off the receiver blocks until I had the proper clearance for closing the  doors,   If I remeber correctly, I machined about 0.100 off of each  receiver blocks.
   
  
   
 -Bob  Newman
   
  
   
  
   
  
   	  | Quote: | 	 		     
 My question for those of you that    have installed the rivethead-aero door blocks… How did you make them fit?        
     
 I’ve trimmed the door pin tubing    flush at the base of van’s angle cut so the ends are square to accept the    threaded magnetic tip.  With the door handle completely retracted the    tips still stick out past the delrin guide blocks on the doors.  There is    barely enough clearance between the retracted door pins and the fiberglass top    w/o the rivethead blocks installed.     
     
 I don’t want to trim the door pins    any shorter or they won’t protrude through the holes in the fuselage door    frame very much.  I’d assume for strength reasons you really want the    closing force on the door pin tubing not the threaded in tip.  I can thin    the rivethead blocks down 50% or so but I’d bet they would still be too wide    to get past the pins.   
     
 Curious what others have    done?   
     
 -Ben    Westfall   
 #40579       
     
 I have to say the doors are a boat    load of work that never ends…   
   | 	  
 __________  Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 3755  (20090109) __________
 
 The message was checked by ESET NOD32  Antivirus.
 
 http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List 
 Web Forums! 
 href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com -Matt 
 href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution 
 =========== [/b][quote]
 
 href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
 href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
 href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
 [b]
 
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		pascal(at)rv10builder.net Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 7:38 am    Post subject: rivethead door block installation help | 
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				Ben;
  The magnetic pin is more like 1/8 past the fusellage in the  closed position.
  1/16 past the door in the opened position
  it’s easier to cut the rod than file down the blocks. I cut  about 1 inch off my rods to fit the 48/64 pins as starting reference for  you.
  Pascal
   
 
   From: pascal (pascal(at)rv10builder.net) 
  Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 7:59 PM
  To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com) 
  Subject: Re: rivethead door block installation  help
  
 
  Ben; 
  with my ends basically are .050 passed the blocks/ close to  flush with the seals where the round tip is protruding. I go through the  fusellage about half-way of the magnetic pin in the closed position. I'll  confirm this weekend.
  I'll need to measure the blocks but I estimate that there is a  fair amount that gets removed to fit when I put the delrin (stock) blocks next  to the aftermarket blocks. I have the Iflyrv10 version.
  Pascal
   
   
 
   From: Ben Westfall (rv10(at)sinkrate.com) 
  Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 7:33 PM
  To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com) 
  Subject: RE: rivethead door block installation  help
  
 
   
 So when you latch the  door to the locked position do your door pins protrude through the aluminum of  the fuselage or are they only in the receiver  blocks? 
      
 
   
 Ben,  I installed the rivethead  pins and blocks.   I trimed the tubes so the magnetic head protruded  about .050 past the delrin block on the doors,   then I machined the  back off the receiver blocks until I had the proper clearance for closing the  doors,   If I remeber correctly, I machined about 0.100 off of each  receiver blocks.
   
  
   
 -Bob  Newman
   
  
   
  
   
  
   	  | Quote: | 	 		     
 My question for those of you that    have installed the rivethead-aero door blocks… How did you make them fit?        
     
 I’ve trimmed the door pin tubing    flush at the base of van’s angle cut so the ends are square to accept the    threaded magnetic tip.  With the door handle completely retracted the    tips still stick out past the delrin guide blocks on the doors.  There is    barely enough clearance between the retracted door pins and the fiberglass top    w/o the rivethead blocks installed.     
     
 I don’t want to trim the door pins    any shorter or they won’t protrude through the holes in the fuselage door    frame very much.  I’d assume for strength reasons you really want the    closing force on the door pin tubing not the threaded in tip.  I can thin    the rivethead blocks down 50% or so but I’d bet they would still be too wide    to get past the pins.   
     
 Curious what others have    done?   
     
 -Ben    Westfall   
 #40579       
     
 I have to say the doors are a boat    load of work that never ends…   
   | 	  
 __________  Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 3755  (20090109) __________
 
 The message was checked by ESET NOD32  Antivirus.
 
 http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List 
 Web Forums! 
 href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com -Matt 
 href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution 
 =========== [/b][quote]
 
 href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
 href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
 href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
 [b]
 
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		bwestfall
 
 
  Joined: 22 Oct 2008 Posts: 131 Location: Portland, OR
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				 Posted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 8:12 am    Post subject: rivethead door block installation help | 
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				Thanks for all the responses guys.  
    
 I actually spoke w/Van himself a while back about the rivethead door blocks/pins which is what prompted my question.  He looked at them with an eye of skepticism because he hadn’t “done the engineering” on them.  He continued by saying that the door locking design was engineered to spread the load onto the door pins through the cabin top and frame.  The analysis of the parts when engineering the door mechanisms showed sufficient strength for the forces that the door would be subject to.  
    
 He hadn’t looked at the rivethead setup closely so my understanding of what he was basically saying was I wouldn’t install them if they departed from the original design without doing an engineering analysis of their strength.  For legality reasons I’m sure he wouldn’t say “yeah they are fine”.  I think he wanted to make sure that the strength of the door closing mechanism should come from the pins passing through the cabin top and frame.  
    
 I wanted to make sure that after installing the blocks that the door pins would still pass all the way through so the load of the door pins was still on the cabin top and frame and not just applied to just the two AN3 bolts that will hold the door blocks on.  I think that was Van’s fear with the product.  Who knows if the shear strength of the AN3 bolts is sufficient w/o proper research?  Also is the threaded in tip just as strong as the rod end?  
    
 It’s always prudent to look at any modification with an eye towards “does this modify the engineering intent of the design?”.  I’m not qualified to answer that so I’m overly paranoid about modifications sometimes.  
    
 -Ben  
          
   
 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
  Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 7:37 AM
  To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
  Subject: Re: rivethead door block installation help  
   
      
 Ben;  
     
 The magnetic pin is more like 1/8 past the fusellage in the closed position.  
     
 1/16 past the door in the opened position  
     
 it’s easier to cut the rod than file down the blocks. I cut about 1 inch off my rods to fit the 48/64 pins as starting reference for you.  
     
 Pascal  
       
    
       
 From: pascal (pascal(at)rv10builder.net)   
     
 Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 7:59 PM  
     
 To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)   
     
 Subject: Re: rivethead door block installation help  
   
   
     
    
     
 Ben;   
     
 with my ends basically are .050 passed the blocks/ close to flush with the seals where the round tip is protruding. I go through the fusellage about half-way of the magnetic pin in the closed position. I'll confirm this weekend.  
     
 I'll need to measure the blocks but I estimate that there is a fair amount that gets removed to fit when I put the delrin (stock) blocks next to the aftermarket blocks. I have the Iflyrv10 version.  
     
 Pascal  
     
    
       
    
       
 From: Ben Westfall (rv10(at)sinkrate.com)   
     
 Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 7:33 PM  
     
 To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)   
     
 Subject: RE: rivethead door block installation help  
   
   
     
    
   
 So when you latch the door to the locked position do your door pins protrude through the aluminum of the fuselage or are they only in the receiver blocks?  
          
   
     
 Ben,  I installed the rivethead pins and blocks.   I trimed the tubes so the magnetic head protruded about .050 past the delrin block on the doors,   then I machined the back off the receiver blocks until I had the proper clearance for closing the doors,   If I remeber correctly, I machined about 0.100 off of each receiver blocks.  
     
    
     
 -Bob Newman  
     
    
     
    
     
    
    	  | Quote: | 	 		    
 My question for those of you that have installed the rivethead-aero door blocks… How did you make them fit?    
    
 I’ve trimmed the door pin tubing flush at the base of van’s angle cut so the ends are square to accept the threaded magnetic tip.  With the door handle completely retracted the tips still stick out past the delrin guide blocks on the doors.  There is barely enough clearance between the retracted door pins and the fiberglass top w/o the rivethead blocks installed.    
    
 I don’t want to trim the door pins any shorter or they won’t protrude through the holes in the fuselage door frame very much.  I’d assume for strength reasons you really want the closing force on the door pin tubing not the threaded in tip.  I can thin the rivethead blocks down 50% or so but I’d bet they would still be too wide to get past the pins.  
    
 Curious what others have done?  
    
 -Ben Westfall  
 #40579   
    
 I have to say the doors are a boat load of work that never ends…  
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  __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 3755 (20090109) __________
  
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		pascal(at)rv10builder.net Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 8:48 am    Post subject: rivethead door block installation help | 
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				I agree that having the frame as the core for the strength is  key. The blocks will add an extra measure of strength which would avoid the  threaded part from really being stressed/bent, per se.
  One thing I am rather certain about, the mag tips will help  with the rear not closing correctly, an issue that resulted in many door issues  using the stock setup.
  I am talking off of thought and not fact BTW, I still need to  get the door fully installed and tested to assure all is as I'm thinking, but I  expect it will be.
  Let me know if you need any other guidance and I'll focus my  build around this section for you.
  Pascal
 
    From: Ben Westfall (rv10(at)sinkrate.com) 
  Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 8:10 AM
  To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com) 
  Subject: RE: rivethead door block installation  help
  
 
   
 Thanks for all the  responses guys. 
   
 I actually spoke w/Van  himself a while back about the rivethead door blocks/pins which is what prompted  my question.  He looked at them with an eye of skepticism because he hadn’t  “done the engineering” on them.  He continued by saying that the door  locking design was engineered to spread the load onto the door pins through the  cabin top and frame.  The analysis of the parts when engineering the door  mechanisms showed sufficient strength for the forces that the door would be  subject to. 
   
 He hadn’t looked at the  rivethead setup closely so my understanding of what he was basically saying was  I wouldn’t install them if they departed from the original design without doing  an engineering analysis of their strength.  For legality reasons I’m sure  he wouldn’t say “yeah they are fine”.  I think he wanted to make sure that  the strength of the door closing mechanism should come from the pins passing  through the cabin top and frame. 
   
 I wanted to make sure  that after installing the blocks that the door pins would still pass all the way  through so the load of the door pins was still on the cabin top and frame and  not just applied to just the two AN3 bolts that will hold the door blocks on.   I think that was Van’s fear with the product.  Who knows if the shear  strength of the AN3 bolts is sufficient w/o proper research?  Also is the  threaded in tip just as strong as the rod end? 
   
 It’s always prudent to  look at any modification with an eye towards “does this modify the engineering  intent of the design?”.  I’m not qualified to answer that so I’m overly  paranoid about modifications sometimes. 
   
 -Ben 
      
  
 From:  owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com  [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
 Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 7:37  AM
 To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
 Subject: Re: rivethead door  block installation help
  
    
 Ben;
   
 The magnetic pin is more like 1/8 past the fusellage in  the closed position.
   
 1/16 past the door in the opened  position
   
 it’s easier to cut the rod than file down the blocks. I  cut about 1 inch off my rods to fit the 48/64 pins as starting reference for  you.
   
 Pascal
    
  
    
 From: pascal (pascal(at)rv10builder.net)  
   
 Sent: Friday,  January 09, 2009 7:59 PM
   
 To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)  
   
 Subject: Re:  rivethead door block installation  help
   
  
   
 Ben; 
   
 with my ends basically are .050 passed the blocks/ close  to flush with the seals where the round tip is protruding. I go through the  fusellage about half-way of the magnetic pin in the closed position. I'll  confirm this weekend.
   
 I'll need to measure the blocks but I estimate that  there is a fair amount that gets removed to fit when I put the delrin (stock)  blocks next to the aftermarket blocks. I have the Iflyrv10  version.
   
 Pascal
   
  
    
  
    
 From: Ben Westfall (rv10(at)sinkrate.com)  
   
 Sent: Friday,  January 09, 2009 7:33 PM
   
 To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)  
   
 Subject: RE:  rivethead door block installation  help
   
  
  
 So when you latch the  door to the locked position do your door pins protrude through the aluminum of  the fuselage or are they only in the receiver  blocks? 
      
 
   
 Ben,  I installed the rivethead  pins and blocks.   I trimed the tubes so the magnetic head protruded  about .050 past the delrin block on the doors,   then I machined the  back off the receiver blocks until I had the proper clearance for closing the  doors,   If I remeber correctly, I machined about 0.100 off of each  receiver blocks.
   
  
   
 -Bob  Newman
   
  
   
  
   
  
   	  | Quote: | 	 		     
 My question for those of you that    have installed the rivethead-aero door blocks… How did you make them fit?        
     
 I’ve trimmed the door pin tubing    flush at the base of van’s angle cut so the ends are square to accept the    threaded magnetic tip.  With the door handle completely retracted the    tips still stick out past the delrin guide blocks on the doors.  There is    barely enough clearance between the retracted door pins and the fiberglass top    w/o the rivethead blocks installed.     
     
 I don’t want to trim the door pins    any shorter or they won’t protrude through the holes in the fuselage door    frame very much.  I’d assume for strength reasons you really want the    closing force on the door pin tubing not the threaded in tip.  I can thin    the rivethead blocks down 50% or so but I’d bet they would still be too wide    to get past the pins.   
     
 Curious what others have    done?   
     
 -Ben    Westfall   
 #40579       
     
 I have to say the doors are a boat    load of work that never ends…   
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