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Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips?

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MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Feb 20, 2010 9:05 am Post subject: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips?

I'm planning to glass in the windscreen in the next 48 hours or so.  The 

top is glued in and I'm laying out the FG work.  Have tried to research 

the task in the archives and in Kitplanes.  Basically planning to follow 

the plans with the following ideas:

- Will cut strips on bias versus parallel to the weave so they drape easier

- Planning to use black dye in both the micro and the first layers of glass

- Will fan out the end of the strip to avoid a lump at the corners

- Taping off the edges with 2 layers of electrical tape per the plans

- Will try laying the dry cloth into resin painted on the surface versus 

a wet lay-up - but will be prepared to go the other way if it feels better

-Planning to do one extended layup - cool shop, slow hardener.  If the 

first sections start to set, it shouldn't be a problem

- Will finish with peel ply



This will be a 1 man job just because it feels OK.  My rivet 

partner/spouse is available but don't see the need for the hands.  Ended 

up Weld-on-ing the top edge one handed and that went well.



Any thoughts, advice, guidance or criticism welcome.



Thanks to Dave Saylor and others for the freely shared knowledge and 

experience.



Bill "thinking that the last major fab job is the wheel pants followed 

by many months of finish work" Watson

pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.
Guest

Posted: Sat Feb 20, 2010 9:55 am Post subject: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips?

Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   

 <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>

 

 I'm planning to glass in the windscreen in the next 48 hours or so.  The 

 top is glued in and I'm laying out the FG work.  Have tried to research 

 the task in the archives and in Kitplanes.  Basically planning to follow 

 the plans with the following ideas:

 - Will cut strips on bias versus parallel to the weave so they drape easier

Good move.
	


 	  Quote: 	
		   - Planning to use black dye in both the micro and the first layers of glass

Not necessary.  I plan on painting the 'glareshield' black before 
	


putting the windshield on.  Contemplating painting a black stripe on the 

inside of WS just to make the edge 'disappear'.  Maybe I can get some 

comments on that.

 	  Quote: 	
		   - Will fan out the end of the strip to avoid a lump at the corners

You can also shorten the layups to get rid of the bulge.
	


 	  Quote: 	
		   - Taping off the edges with 2 layers of electrical tape per the plans.

I haven't got that far, so I guess the tape is the boundary of the 
	


layup?  If so, wax the tape too.

 	  Quote: 	
		   - Will try laying the dry cloth into resin painted on the surface versus 

 a wet lay-up - but will be prepared to go the other way if it feels better

It will be better with a wet layup.  Sandwich the cloth and the resin 
	


betwen two layers of plastic film, and use a squeegee to move the resin 

around in the cloth and squeegee the excess resin out of the cloth.  Put 

one layer on the airplane and scoop the excess resin to be used in the 

next layer.  I use the slow hardener too, to give the resin more working 

time.

 	  Quote: 	
		   -Planning to do one extended layup - cool shop, slow hardener.  If the 

 first sections start to set, it shouldn't be a problem

I agree .... I'd mark the center of the WS and the cloth to make it 
	


easier to align ..... and I wouldn't do it by myself.  At least one 

other set of hands to help put the layups on the plane and even another 

person to do resin mixing and wetting of the next layer.

 	  Quote: 	
		   - Will finish with peel ply

Excellent choice.  Use short pieces precut like the layups since peel 
	


ply doesn't like compound curves.  OK to overlap the peel ply .... it'll 

leave a small ridge and some fibers will get caught in the resin, but 

better than sanding everything the whole thing a lot!

 	  Quote: 	
		   

 This will be a 1 man job just because it feels OK.  My rivet 

 partner/spouse is available but don't see the need for the hands.  Ended 

 up Weld-on-ing the top edge one handed and that went well.

Trust me, you don't want to get started only to find that there's things 
	


you haven't thought of and you don't have the time to take care of them. 

  I wouldn't do it by myself, and I have a fair amount of FG experience.

 	  Quote: 	
		   

 Any thoughts, advice, guidance or criticism welcome.

MHO above .... YMMV.  Let us know how it turns out .... we can always 
	


learn from those that went before us.

 	  Quote: 	
		   

 Thanks to Dave Saylor and others for the freely shared knowledge and 

 experience.

 

 Bill "thinking that the last major fab job is the wheel pants followed 

 by many months of finish work" Watson

I think that's about accurate!!!  Time spent now in prepping the 
	


airplane prior to paint is worth 10X that later on.

Linn



 	  Quote:

daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Feb 20, 2010 11:49 am Post subject: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips?

I just did this almost exactly as your plan.  My shop was 60-65 F.  I did it 

by myself with no problem.  I wet the first couple strips in a dish.  I then 

laid the rest of the glass strips on the surface then worked the resin in. 

Worked fine.  This is a pretty straight forward operation but a bit messy.



Dave Leikam

RV-10 #40496

N89DA

Muskego, WI



---

coop85(at)verizon.net
Guest

Posted: Sat Feb 20, 2010 12:13 pm Post subject: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips?

Very similar to the process I used some time ago.  I agree with dying the

resin black, painting/covering the panel cover is good too, but tinting the

glass makes it look a lot nicer from inside the windshield.



Recommend you see how well the dry layup options works for you and be

prepared to go with all wet layups.  You don't want the layups in place to

be too wet or it will get messy and to get the new layer saturated with

resin without bubbles might take more work that you expect.  Give it a shot

though, as you might have more control of the cloth going on.  I also did

the whole thing in one sitting which makes it easier.



Peel ply is a great idea, I learned about that from my Q-2 long ago and it's

a real life saver.



Make sure you trim the edges along the electrical tape before it sets too

hard.  Cuts pretty easy while setting up but I'd hate to take a grinder to

the fiberglass that close to the windshield which is probably what it would

take after curing.



Good luck, this is probably one of the last real challenges before

completion (last challenge, not necessarily last in time spent to go

unfortunately).



Marcus

--

indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Feb 20, 2010 4:39 pm Post subject: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips?

Good luck, this is probably one of the last real challenges before

completion (last challenge, not necessarily last in time spent to go

unfortunately).

  

 Wishful thinking!

 

 

[quote] From: coop85(at)verizon.net

 To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com

 Subject: RE: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips?

 Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 15:12:27 -0500

 

 --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)verizon.net>

 

 Very similar to the process I used some time ago. I agree with dying the

 resin black, painting/covering the panel cover is good too, but tinting the

 glass makes it look a lot nicer from inside the windshield.

 

 Recommend you see how well the dry layup options works for you and be

 prepared to go with all wet layups. You don't want the layups in place to

 be too wet or it will get messy and to get the new layer saturated with

 resin without bubbles might take more work that you expect. Give it a shot

 though, as you might have more control of the cloth going on. I also did

 the whole thing in one sitting which makes it easier.

 

 Peel ply is a great idea, I learned about that from my Q-2 long ago and it's

 a real life saver.

 

 Make sure you trim the edges along the electrical tape before it sets too

 hard. Cuts pretty easy while setting up but I'd hate to take a grinder to

 the fiberglass that close to the windshield which is probably what it would

 take after curing.

 

 Good luck, this is probably one of the last real challenges before

 completion (last challenge, not necessarily last in time spent to go

 unfortunately).

 

 Marcus

 

 

 --

Lew Gallagher

Joined: 04 Jan 2008
Posts: 402
Location: Greenville , SC

Posted: Sat Feb 20, 2010 5:15 pm Post subject: Re: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips?

Hey Bill "way overthinking but doing it right" Watson,



I just cut the strips, did the toner/black thing on the first layer, soaked them one at a time, and laid them up.  Really no big deal -- you did the weld-on, go for it!  



I didn't brush the bubbles out, just wore disposable nitril gloves and hand smoothed the layers out, patted them in place, whatever.  You are going to have to sand, then skim with resin/microbeads using a bondo spatula a few times to get it perfect later anyway, so don't spend too much time obsessing over getting the layers themselves perfect.  Even the "humps" at the corners are easily ground off and skimmed.



One thought,  with the lower temps and slow hardener, you will probably get runs down the outside vertical edges (where others have suggested you taper off the layers so as to not get a hump).  So tape, mask, etc.  It is much easier to keep the resin off than to get it off later.  Also lay out drop cloths or newspaper on the floor for the same reason.  I scuffed the whole plane prior to priming, so it was only a bit more sanding to get those couple of drips off -- but the next one, I'll know better.



Let me know when you get to the wheel pants -- I really like the way ours turned out, splitting and glassing the lower fairing to the pants themselves.



Later, - Lew "started the engine for the first time Tues." Gallagher

_________________
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Fly off completed !

pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net
Guest

Posted: Sat Feb 20, 2010 6:01 pm Post subject: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips?

Bill, if you need an extra set of hands, let me know.  I'd be happy to work

on something besides what I'm doing right now (pro-sealing the fuel tanks).



Jack Phillips

#40610  Wings (fuel tanks)

Raleigh, NC



--

MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 1:52 pm Post subject: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips?

Thanks Jack, with the Pro-seal left on your fingers I probably won't 

need the black dye.



I'm still circling the shop enjoying the view (and the weather) and 

haven't really commited to the lay up yet... if I had you come over I'd 

probably get the job done so fast I wouldn't be able to enjoy the 

procrastination.



But Thanks!



Bill



Jack Phillips wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 Bill, if you need an extra set of hands, let me know.  I'd be happy to work

 on something besides what I'm doing right now (pro-sealing the fuel tanks).



 Jack Phillips

 #40610  Wings (fuel tanks)

 Raleigh, NC

Walt Fuller

Joined: 21 Jun 2009
Posts: 9

Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 2:23 am Post subject: Re: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips?

Get the wife to brush the strips as you're putting them on. Took us about an hour and a half to do the layups. We put em on wet and hand smoothed. We too kept the shop at around 60-65 degrees and did get some dripping along the vertical sides. A little extra sanding for that. For sanding the final filler I cut a wood block to a 7 inch radius which helped to maintain a nice smooth profile. Good luck with the project!



Walt Fuller

#40584

finishing up the baffling

MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 12:24 pm Post subject: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips?

An update - the windscreen is glassed in and  mostly filled - still 

sanding.  A few random reflections:

- masking off the surrounding area is a very good idea - it's not a 

particularly messy job but still glad I did

- I decided to start with a wet layup.  However I did some 

experimentation that I regretted.  I've been using 'Saran wrap' to make 

up the wet layups.  This time I tried 4 or 6 mill plastic (thick and 

stiff) since I noticed some people doing that and I thought it might 

work better with the long pieces.  Should have stayed with the kitchen 

wrap.  The plastic didn't want to follow the compound curve and tended 

to pull at the cloth.  I switched over to dry layup and that really 

worked well.  But bottom line, any technique can work but working single 

handed made the decision more critical.

- The bias cut seems to work well.  I parallel cut the first 2 layers 

then bias cut the remainder.  This is counter to the plans but seems to 

be the right way to go.

- Time is not really a factor.  I mixed 3 or 4 batches of epoxy as I 

worked my way thru the job - no problem if 1 and 2 start to setup. 

- Black dye seems to work well - a little  bottle from ACS is a lifetime 

supply.

- I didn't pay too much attention to the potential lump at the ends.  I 

spread the layers a bit and cut them short a bit but there is a little 

hump which will fill and sand away.  But spreading the layers near the 

end is the craftsman like way to this.

- When I applied the peel ply, it became obvious why thicker plastic 

wouldn't wrap around the windscreen when I was trying the we layup.  

Stiff plastic and peel ply don't go around compound curves easily.  

Saran wrap and wet cloth?  Much easier to handle

- After 3 layers of micro, the filet radius looks great.  We'll just 

keep sanding.



Bottom line is that Van's procedure works fine as-is (no surprise 

there).  It can be done a bit better and easier by applying some common 

sense and list tips.



Thanks all!



Bill "starting the wheel pants and trying to figure out how to jack this 

monster off the floor" Watson



Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   I'm planning to glass in the windscreen in the next 48 hours or so.  

 The top is glued in and I'm laying out the FG work.  Have tried to 

 research the task in the archives and in Kitplanes.  Basically 

 planning to follow the plans with the following ideas:

 - Will cut strips on bias versus parallel to the weave so they drape 

 easier

 - Planning to use black dye in both the micro and the first layers of 

 glass

 - Will fan out the end of the strip to avoid a lump at the corners

 - Taping off the edges with 2 layers of electrical tape per the plans

 - Will try laying the dry cloth into resin painted on the surface 

 versus a wet lay-up - but will be prepared to go the other way if it 

 feels better

 -Planning to do one extended layup - cool shop, slow hardener.  If the 

 first sections start to set, it shouldn't be a problem

 - Will finish with peel ply



 This will be a 1 man job just because it feels OK.  My rivet 

 partner/spouse is available but don't see the need for the hands.  

 Ended up Weld-on-ing the top edge one handed and that went well.



 Any thoughts, advice, guidance or criticism welcome.



 Thanks to Dave Saylor and others for the freely shared knowledge and 

 experience.



 Bill "thinking that the last major fab job is the wheel pants followed 

 by many months of finish work" Watson

pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.
Guest

Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 4:04 pm Post subject: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips?

Thanks for the play-by-play!  I'm sure you're glad that's past!!!

FWIW, I find the saran wrap too flimsy and it tears easily.  2 mil 

plastic is about right.  6 mil just doesn't want to 'sag' easily.  On 

long runs, pull off the top layer of the plastic sandwich then roll the 

plastic/wet glass up. Unroll and pull the plastic off starting on one 

end .... because the other end is in the center of the roll.  Duh!  Once 

you get the FG started, you can just unroll and separate the FG, laying 

it where you want it.

You're spot on about the peel ply.  With compound curves, use short 

pieces and overlap the oieces.  You'll be left with small ridges which 

easily sand out. ..... better than having no peel ply.

Linn

Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote:

 	  Quote: 	

 <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>

 An update - the windscreen is glassed in and  mostly filled - still 

 sanding.  A few random reflections:

 - masking off the surrounding area is a very good idea - it's not a 

 particularly messy job but still glad I did

 - I decided to start with a wet layup.  However I did some 

 experimentation that I regretted.  I've been using 'Saran wrap' to make 

 up the wet layups.  This time I tried 4 or 6 mill plastic (thick and 

 stiff) since I noticed some people doing that and I thought it might 

 work better with the long pieces.  Should have stayed with the kitchen 

 wrap.  The plastic didn't want to follow the compound curve and tended 

 to pull at the cloth.  I switched over to dry layup and that really 

 worked well.  But bottom line, any technique can work but working single 

 handed made the decision more critical.

 - The bias cut seems to work well.  I parallel cut the first 2 layers 

 then bias cut the remainder.  This is counter to the plans but seems to 

 be the right way to go.

 - Time is not really a factor.  I mixed 3 or 4 batches of epoxy as I 

 worked my way thru the job - no problem if 1 and 2 start to setup. - 

 Black dye seems to work well - a little  bottle from ACS is a lifetime 

 supply.

 - I didn't pay too much attention to the potential lump at the ends.  I 

 spread the layers a bit and cut them short a bit but there is a little 

 hump which will fill and sand away.  But spreading the layers near the 

 end is the craftsman like way to this.

 - When I applied the peel ply, it became obvious why thicker plastic 

 wouldn't wrap around the windscreen when I was trying the we layup.  

 Stiff plastic and peel ply don't go around compound curves easily.  

 Saran wrap and wet cloth?  Much easier to handle

 - After 3 layers of micro, the filet radius looks great.  We'll just 

 keep sanding.

 Bottom line is that Van's procedure works fine as-is (no surprise 

 there).  It can be done a bit better and easier by applying some common 

 sense and list tips.

 Thanks all!

 Bill "starting the wheel pants and trying to figure out how to jack this 

 monster off the floor" Watson

 Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote:

> I'm planning to glass in the windscreen in the next 48 hours or so.  

> The top is glued in and I'm laying out the FG work.  Have tried to 

> research the task in the archives and in Kitplanes.  Basically 

> planning to follow the plans with the following ideas:

> - Will cut strips on bias versus parallel to the weave so they drape 

> easier

> - Planning to use black dye in both the micro and the first layers of 

> glass

> - Will fan out the end of the strip to avoid a lump at the corners

> - Taping off the edges with 2 layers of electrical tape per the plans

> - Will try laying the dry cloth into resin painted on the surface 

> versus a wet lay-up - but will be prepared to go the other way if it 

> feels better

> -Planning to do one extended layup - cool shop, slow hardener.  If the 

> first sections start to set, it shouldn't be a problem

> - Will finish with peel ply

>

> This will be a 1 man job just because it feels OK.  My rivet 

> partner/spouse is available but don't see the need for the hands.  

> Ended up Weld-on-ing the top edge one handed and that went well.

>

> Any thoughts, advice, guidance or criticism welcome.

>

> Thanks to Dave Saylor and others for the freely shared knowledge and 

> experience.

>

> Bill "thinking that the last major fab job is the wheel pants followed 

> by many months of finish work" Watson

>

MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 6:35 pm Post subject: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips?

Yep, 2 mil sounds right.  I tried the rollup approach with the 6 mil dry 

and wet.  The dry worked well enough and I used it for most of my dry 

layups.  The wet probably would have worked great with 2mil but not with 

the 6.



Bill



Linn Walters wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 Thanks for the play-by-play!  I'm sure you're glad that's past!!!



 FWIW, I find the saran wrap too flimsy and it tears easily.  2 mil 

 plastic is about right.  6 mil just doesn't want to 'sag' easily.  On 

 long runs, pull off the top layer of the plastic sandwich then roll 

 the plastic/wet glass up. Unroll and pull the plastic off starting on 

 one end .... because the other end is in the center of the roll.  

 Duh!  Once you get the FG started, you can just unroll and separate 

 the FG, laying it where you want it.



 You're spot on about the peel ply.  With compound curves, use short 

 pieces and overlap the oieces.  You'll be left with small ridges which 

 easily sand out. ..... better than having no peel ply.

 Linn



 Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote:

> 

> <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>

>

> An update - the windscreen is glassed in and  mostly filled - still 

> sanding.  A few random reflections:

> - masking off the surrounding area is a very good idea - it's not a 

> particularly messy job but still glad I did

> - I decided to start with a wet layup.  However I did some 

> experimentation that I regretted.  I've been using 'Saran wrap' to 

> make up the wet layups.  This time I tried 4 or 6 mill plastic (thick 

> and stiff) since I noticed some people doing that and I thought it 

> might work better with the long pieces.  Should have stayed with the 

> kitchen wrap.  The plastic didn't want to follow the compound curve 

> and tended to pull at the cloth.  I switched over to dry layup and 

> that really worked well.  But bottom line, any technique can work but 

> working single handed made the decision more critical.

> - The bias cut seems to work well.  I parallel cut the first 2 layers 

> then bias cut the remainder.  This is counter to the plans but seems 

> to be the right way to go.

> - Time is not really a factor.  I mixed 3 or 4 batches of epoxy as I 

> worked my way thru the job - no problem if 1 and 2 start to setup. - 

> Black dye seems to work well - a little  bottle from ACS is a 

> lifetime supply.

> - I didn't pay too much attention to the potential lump at the ends.  

> I spread the layers a bit and cut them short a bit but there is a 

> little hump which will fill and sand away.  But spreading the layers 

> near the end is the craftsman like way to this.

> - When I applied the peel ply, it became obvious why thicker plastic 

> wouldn't wrap around the windscreen when I was trying the we layup.  

> Stiff plastic and peel ply don't go around compound curves easily.  

> Saran wrap and wet cloth?  Much easier to handle

> - After 3 layers of micro, the filet radius looks great.  We'll just 

> keep sanding.

>

> Bottom line is that Van's procedure works fine as-is (no surprise 

> there).  It can be done a bit better and easier by applying some 

> common sense and list tips.

>

> Thanks all!

>

> Bill "starting the wheel pants and trying to figure out how to jack 

> this monster off the floor" Watson

>

> Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote:

>> I'm planning to glass in the windscreen in the next 48 hours or so.  

>> The top is glued in and I'm laying out the FG work.  Have tried to 

>> research the task in the archives and in Kitplanes.  Basically 

>> planning to follow the plans with the following ideas:

>> - Will cut strips on bias versus parallel to the weave so they drape 

>> easier

>> - Planning to use black dye in both the micro and the first layers 

>> of glass

>> - Will fan out the end of the strip to avoid a lump at the corners

>> - Taping off the edges with 2 layers of electrical tape per the plans

>> - Will try laying the dry cloth into resin painted on the surface 

>> versus a wet lay-up - but will be prepared to go the other way if it 

>> feels better

>> -Planning to do one extended layup - cool shop, slow hardener.  If 

>> the first sections start to set, it shouldn't be a problem

>> - Will finish with peel ply

>>

>> This will be a 1 man job just because it feels OK.  My rivet 

>> partner/spouse is available but don't see the need for the hands.  

>> Ended up Weld-on-ing the top edge one handed and that went well.

>>

>> Any thoughts, advice, guidance or criticism welcome.

>>

>> Thanks to Dave Saylor and others for the freely shared knowledge and 

>> experience.

>>

>> Bill "thinking that the last major fab job is the wheel pants 

>> followed by many months of finish work" Watson

>>

>

indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 6:49 pm Post subject: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips?

Use a floor palate jack, lots of wooden blocks and wooden wedges to fine tune the for leveling. Might only take a few hours...to find, then cut all that wood around the house, and go up and down with the jack trying in different wood pieces until perfect. 



Put padded saw horses under it too in the event of an earthquake. That should work unless the entire house falls on it. Ain't building in the basement great.



[quote] Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 15:22:31 -0500

 From: MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com

 To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com

 Subject: Re: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips?

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Jim Berry

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 237
Location: Denver

Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 7:57 pm Post subject: Re: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips?

Bill,



A less wood-intensive method of supporting the fuselage in the correct position is to C-clamp a 2x4 vertically to each spar stub. Use a bottle jack and short piece of 2x4 under the spar stub to raise each side to the proper height. Reclamp the first 2x4 so it extends to the floor. I replaced the rear tie down ring with a bolt, then used a tripod stand to hold the tail at the correct height to level the longerons fore and aft. Since I had already hung my engine, I also used my engine lift with a nylon strap around the upper motor mount tubes to support most of the weight of the fuselage. A laser level that shoots an overhead line is an easy way to establish an accurate centerline the full length of the fuselage, then measure an offset line L and R for each wheel pant.



Jim Berry

40483

N15JB

MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 9:05 pm Post subject: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips?

Jim, it finally dawned on me that jacking the spar stubs was going to be 

the key.  I have the engine installed and it's sitting on the gear. 



But I'm having a hard time visualizing exactly what you are suggesting 

for the c-clamped 2x4. Can you elaborate a bit?



Thanks

Bill Watson

40605



Jim Berry wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 Bill,



 A less wood-intensive method of supporting the fuselage in the correct position is to C-clamp a 2x4 vertically to each spar stub. Use a bottle jack and short piece of 2x4 under the spar stub to raise each side to the proper height. Reclamp the first 2x4 so it extends to the floor. I replaced the rear tie down ring with a bolt, then used a tripod stand to hold the tail at the correct height to level the longerons fore and aft. Since I had already hung my engine, I also used my engine lift with a nylon strap around the upper motor mount tubes to support most of the weight of the fuselage. A laser level that shoots an overhead line is an easy way to establish an accurate centerline the full length of the fuselage, then measure an offset line L and R for each wheel pant.



 Jim Berry

 40483

 N15JB

Jim Berry

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 237
Location: Denver

Posted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 10:19 am Post subject: Re: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips?

Bill,



The bottle jack and short 2x4 go under the spar stubs, and are used to tweak the fuselage level side-to-side. The longer 2x4s are clamped to the aft sides of the spar stubs to help maintain the level position. It needs to be long enough to reach from the top of the spar to the floor. I used 2 C clamps per side. I jacked the spars just enough to get the main tires about 1/4" off the ground, then raised the low side a little more to bring the fuselage level. The C clamped 2x4s did a good job of maintaining that position, and showed no tendency to walk. Once you have it leveled side-to-side it is easy to tweak the engine hoist and/or tail support to get level fore and aft.



The other thing that really helped in getting the wheel pants in position was to make 2 L-shaped jigs to hold the wheel pant level fore and aft. Basically just 2 plywood supports with one leg on the floor and the other leg perpendicular to the floor. After you establish the fore and aft level line on each wheel pant(use a laser level) you can measure the height from that line to the ground. Drill a #40 hole in the nose and tail of each pant on the level line. Drill a hole in each jig the same distance from the floor, and pin each jig to the pant with a finishing nail. You now have a way to hold the pant level and at the correct height. By moving the jigs around you have a stable way to position the pant relative to the tire and mounting bracket. Have fun.



Jim Berry

40482

N15JB

MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Mar 03, 2010 7:04 am Post subject: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips?

Jim, just wanted to say Thanks for the detail on the jacking.  I never 

would have tried the C-clamp thing on my own but it works great.  Engine 

hoist on the engine mount (engine on), an oak 1.5x1.5 c-clamped to each 

spar, a camera tripod doing nothing back at the tail.



The first pant is going on fine - might try the 2 ply supports but not 

having any problems there yet.  I just got a laser line thingy - very 

cool.  $30 at Sears for a 1 line device with detachable magnetic mount.  

Couldn't imagine exactly how to use it despite all the mentions of it's 

use on this list.  Fool around with it for 10 minutes and it starts to 

seem indispensible.  The centerline of the aircraft thing is a piece of 

cake.



Bill "starting to enjoy an otherwise uncomfortable set of tasks" Watson

40605 Durham NC



Jim Berry wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 Bill,



 The bottle jack and short 2x4 go under the spar stubs, and are used to tweak the fuselage level side-to-side. The longer 2x4s are clamped to the aft sides of the spar stubs to help maintain the level position. It needs to be long enough to reach from the top of the spar to the floor. I used 2 C clamps per side. I jacked the spars just enough to get the main tires about 1/4" off the ground, then raised the low side a little more to bring the fuselage level. The C clamped 2x4s did a good job of maintaining that position, and showed no tendency to walk. Once you have it leveled side-to-side it is easy to tweak the engine hoist and/or tail support to get level fore and aft.



 The other thing that really helped in getting the wheel pants in position was to make 2 L-shaped jigs to hold the wheel pant level fore and aft. Basically just 2 plywood supports with one leg on the floor and the other leg perpendicular to the floor. After you establish the fore and aft level line on each wheel pant(use a laser level) you can measure the height from that line to the ground. Drill a #40 hole in the nose and tail of each pant on the level line. Drill a hole in each jig the same distance from the floor, and pin each jig to the pant with a finishing nail. You now have a way to hold the pant level and at the correct height. By moving the jigs around you have a stable way to position the pant relative to the tire and mounting bracket. Have fun.



 Jim Berry

 40482

 N15JB

Jim Berry

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 237
Location: Denver

Posted: Wed Mar 03, 2010 8:35 am Post subject: Re: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips?

Bill,



I am glad to hear it is working for you. Your first laser level is just the foot in the door. I started with a single line level, then a dual line, and now a 5 line level. They are kind of like hammers; more is better.



Jim Berry

40482

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