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Cowl Flaps
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40950(at)rv10.net
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 5:33 pm    Post subject: Cowl Flaps Reply with quote

Any one build cowl flaps for the rv-10?

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robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 8:56 am    Post subject: Cowl Flaps Reply with quote

Sounds like the answer is no.
I don't see the need if you are going standard vans cowl, 260 Hp engine
etc... Maybe upgrade to the 2006 oil cooler and place the oil cooler
splitter in the "wedge"
Why complicate things that already work. Adding cowl flaps will definitely
complicate the lower cowl assembly.

Robin
Do Not Archive
--


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Tim Olson



Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2871

PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 2:54 pm    Post subject: Cowl Flaps Reply with quote

You know, that oil cooler splitter thing.....I actually think
my oil temps are now more of an issue since adding that splitter
vane. These days I hit higher temps on climbout than I used
to. I may actually remove mine, as now that I've had it
closer to a year, I'm finding that I get oil > 200F in
a climb even on cooler days, whereas I didn't have that
happen until the splitter. I almost ALWAYS cruised at 185F
before too, and now I find I may end up at 190 or 192 or
something higher. No, that's not hot, but I can hit 215F
in a climb now, on a 65F degree day. Used to never have
that issue. It may make better airflow distribution, but
it may be restricting or something. Or perhaps I did a bad
job installing it. At any rate, I know I didn't see any
appreciably decrease in temps, so at best I think it
did nothing. I'm just hoping it isn't worse than nothing.

Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 6/29/2010 11:46 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
[quote]

Sounds like the answer is no.
I don't see the need if you are going standard vans cowl, 260 Hp engine
etc... Maybe upgrade to the 2006 oil cooler and place the oil cooler
splitter in the "wedge"
Why complicate things that already work. Adding cowl flaps will definitely
complicate the lower cowl assembly.

Robin
Do Not Archive
--


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rv10builder(at)verizon.ne
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 3:11 pm    Post subject: Cowl Flaps Reply with quote

let us know what you see when you take the splitter out.

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)myrv10.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 29, 2010 1:07 PM
To: <rv10-list(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Cowl Flaps

[quote]

You know, that oil cooler splitter thing.....I actually think
my oil temps are now more of an issue since adding that splitter
vane. These days I hit higher temps on climbout than I used
to. I may actually remove mine, as now that I've had it
closer to a year, I'm finding that I get oil > 200F in
a climb even on cooler days, whereas I didn't have that
happen until the splitter. I almost ALWAYS cruised at 185F
before too, and now I find I may end up at 190 or 192 or
something higher. No, that's not hot, but I can hit 215F
in a climb now, on a 65F degree day. Used to never have
that issue. It may make better airflow distribution, but
it may be restricting or something. Or perhaps I did a bad
job installing it. At any rate, I know I didn't see any
appreciably decrease in temps, so at best I think it
did nothing. I'm just hoping it isn't worse than nothing.

Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 6/29/2010 11:46 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
>
> Sounds like the answer is no.
> I don't see the need if you are going standard vans cowl, 260 Hp engine
> etc... Maybe upgrade to the 2006 oil cooler and place the oil cooler
> splitter in the "wedge"
> Why complicate things that already work. Adding cowl flaps will
> definitely
> complicate the lower cowl assembly.
>
> Robin
> Do Not Archive
> --


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Kelly McMullen



Joined: 16 Apr 2008
Posts: 1188
Location: Sun Lakes AZ

PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 3:13 pm    Post subject: Cowl Flaps Reply with quote

I know on my Mooney (Lyc IO-360) the oil temp redline is 245. Due to
the placement of the oil cooler in a low pressure area (designed in
early '60s) oil temp normally runs 205-210. It isn't unusual to see
215-220 on climb out or doing practice maneuvers. Only opening cowl
flaps and reducing power are a help if increasing airspeed isn't an
option.
I wouldn't be bothered by 215 in the climb on a hot day, but at 65
degrees, that is hotter than it should be. I'd be thrilled if I could
keep my cruise oil temp at 200. Of course later models moved the oil
cooler behind left rear cylinder, attached to the baffling, that was
noticeable help, but that requires field approval on certified plane,
unlike our wonderful OBAM aircraft.
Kelly

On Tue, Jun 29, 2010 at 1:07 PM, Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com> wrote:
[quote]

You know, that oil cooler splitter thing.....I actually think
my oil temps are now more of an issue since adding that splitter
vane.  These days I hit higher temps on climbout than I used
to.  I may actually remove mine, as now that I've had it
closer to a year, I'm finding that I get oil > 200F in
a climb even on cooler days, whereas I didn't have that
happen until the splitter.  I almost ALWAYS cruised at 185F
before too, and now I find I may end up at 190 or 192 or
something higher.  No, that's not hot, but I can hit 215F
in a climb now, on a 65F degree day.  Used to never have
that issue.  It may make better airflow distribution, but
it may be restricting or something.  Or perhaps I did a bad
job installing it.  At any rate, I know I didn't see any
appreciably decrease in temps, so at best I think it
did nothing.  I'm just hoping it isn't worse than nothing.

Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 6/29/2010 11:46 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
>
>
> Sounds like the answer is no.
> I don't see the need if you are going standard vans cowl, 260 Hp engine
> etc... Maybe upgrade to the 2006 oil cooler and place the oil cooler
> splitter in the "wedge"
> Why complicate things that already work. Adding cowl flaps will definitely
> complicate the lower cowl assembly.
>
> Robin
> Do Not Archive
> --


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A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor
KCHD
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Tim Olson



Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2871

PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 3:24 pm    Post subject: Cowl Flaps Reply with quote

Yeah, the temps themselves didn't cause me a huge concern,
but I didn't put that splitter in until I had maybe 500-ish
hours of time on the RV-10 to gain experience. Now, with
maybe another 100+ hours of time since then, I think my
temps are now higher, not lower, so I just am not convinced
that it's either a) necessary, or b) always helpful.
It *could* be, since nothing I tested is scientific, but
you kind of get a feel for things like this over that many
hours of operation. I just always could keep 185F in
cruise before....now it's not as easy.

Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 6/29/2010 6:12 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
[quote]

I know on my Mooney (Lyc IO-360) the oil temp redline is 245. Due to
the placement of the oil cooler in a low pressure area (designed in
early '60s) oil temp normally runs 205-210. It isn't unusual to see
215-220 on climb out or doing practice maneuvers. Only opening cowl
flaps and reducing power are a help if increasing airspeed isn't an
option.
I wouldn't be bothered by 215 in the climb on a hot day, but at 65
degrees, that is hotter than it should be. I'd be thrilled if I could
keep my cruise oil temp at 200. Of course later models moved the oil
cooler behind left rear cylinder, attached to the baffling, that was
noticeable help, but that requires field approval on certified plane,
unlike our wonderful OBAM aircraft.
Kelly

On Tue, Jun 29, 2010 at 1:07 PM, Tim Olson<Tim(at)myrv10.com> wrote:
>
>
> You know, that oil cooler splitter thing.....I actually think
> my oil temps are now more of an issue since adding that splitter
> vane. These days I hit higher temps on climbout than I used
> to. I may actually remove mine, as now that I've had it
> closer to a year, I'm finding that I get oil> 200F in
> a climb even on cooler days, whereas I didn't have that
> happen until the splitter. I almost ALWAYS cruised at 185F
> before too, and now I find I may end up at 190 or 192 or
> something higher. No, that's not hot, but I can hit 215F
> in a climb now, on a 65F degree day. Used to never have
> that issue. It may make better airflow distribution, but
> it may be restricting or something. Or perhaps I did a bad
> job installing it. At any rate, I know I didn't see any
> appreciably decrease in temps, so at best I think it
> did nothing. I'm just hoping it isn't worse than nothing.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
> On 6/29/2010 11:46 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> Sounds like the answer is no.
>> I don't see the need if you are going standard vans cowl, 260 Hp engine
>> etc... Maybe upgrade to the 2006 oil cooler and place the oil cooler
>> splitter in the "wedge"
>> Why complicate things that already work. Adding cowl flaps will definitely
>> complicate the lower cowl assembly.
>>
>> Robin
>> Do Not Archive
>>
>>
>> --


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Deems Davis



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 925

PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 3:35 pm    Post subject: Cowl Flaps Reply with quote

For all of the James cowl/plenum RV10 drivers. You will want to find Alan Bickle (at) OSH this year and talk and see what he's done re CHT and Oil Temps. It was a lot of work, but I think he's nailed the solution. Not to keep everyone in suspense, but his solution was bigger intake rings. If you haven't painted you cowl, See Alan 1st!!!.

I just got back from a trip to Provo, Ut from PHX, and had Oil temps peak (at) 220 on climb (and that was a 120kt climb) and avg 205 on the way up. Cyl #2 & #6 CHT's peaked (at) 415-420! 40 deg ROP got them down to under 400. OAT (at) altitude 65-70 F.

BUT.........

25 degs LOP and CHT's dropped to 345-360 and OIL temps to 195. I'm really happily surprised to see the cooling advantage that LOP brings
We had tail winds BOTH ways on our trip and still averaged 165kts GS (at) 11.2 gph! I'm liking this LOP stuff!!!!


Deems

On 6/29/2010 9:46 AM, Robin Marks wrote: [quote] [quote]--> RV10-List message posted by: Robin Marks <robin(at)painttheweb.com> (robin(at)painttheweb.com) Sounds like the answer is no. I don't see the need if you are going standard vans cowl, 260 Hp engine etc... Maybe upgrade to the 2006 oil cooler and place the oil cooler splitter in the "wedge" Why complicate things that already work. Adding cowl flaps will definitely complicate the lower cowl assembly. Robin Do Not Archive --


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bwestfall



Joined: 22 Oct 2008
Posts: 131
Location: Portland, OR

PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 4:07 pm    Post subject: Cowl Flaps Reply with quote

Tim James in the PDX area fitted a cowl flap on his plane. I've seen it but
it was a while ago and I don't recall much of the design accept that it
looked pretty simple and effective. He really likes it. Not sure if he's
active on this list or not for pictures/description.

Ben Westfall


--


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gengrumpy(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 6:23 pm    Post subject: Cowl Flaps Reply with quote

FWIW. My oil cooler setup remains stock Vans with exception of
butterfly valve put in this winter just aft of the baffling on the oil
cooler line (to keep temps higher in winter).

Hot days here in TN and my oil temps stay 185-190 on climb out as long
as I keep speed at or above 120.

grumpy
do not archive

On Jun 29, 2010, at 3:07 PM, Tim Olson wrote:

[quote]

You know, that oil cooler splitter thing.....I actually think
my oil temps are now more of an issue since adding that splitter
vane. These days I hit higher temps on climbout than I used
to. I may actually remove mine, as now that I've had it
closer to a year, I'm finding that I get oil > 200F in
a climb even on cooler days, whereas I didn't have that
happen until the splitter. I almost ALWAYS cruised at 185F
before too, and now I find I may end up at 190 or 192 or
something higher. No, that's not hot, but I can hit 215F
in a climb now, on a 65F degree day. Used to never have
that issue. It may make better airflow distribution, but
it may be restricting or something. Or perhaps I did a bad
job installing it. At any rate, I know I didn't see any
appreciably decrease in temps, so at best I think it
did nothing. I'm just hoping it isn't worse than nothing.

Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 6/29/2010 11:46 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
>
> Sounds like the answer is no.
> I don't see the need if you are going standard vans cowl, 260 Hp
> engine
> etc... Maybe upgrade to the 2006 oil cooler and place the oil cooler
> splitter in the "wedge"
> Why complicate things that already work. Adding cowl flaps will
> definitely
> complicate the lower cowl assembly.
>
> Robin
> Do Not Archive
> --


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Dick Sipp



Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 215
Location: Hope, MI

PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 7:06 pm    Post subject: Cowl Flaps Reply with quote

Just for another data point, ditto John's configuration and results. I love
the butterfly valve for keeping temps up in the winter, easy to regulate oil
temp from cockpit. Stays open in the summer with the temps John reports.

Dick Sipp
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Miller John" <gengrumpy(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 29, 2010 10:16 PM
To: <rv10-list(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Cowl Flaps

[quote]

FWIW. My oil cooler setup remains stock Vans with exception of butterfly
valve put in this winter just aft of the baffling on the oil cooler line
(to keep temps higher in winter).

Hot days here in TN and my oil temps stay 185-190 on climb out as long as
I keep speed at or above 120.

grumpy
do not archive

On Jun 29, 2010, at 3:07 PM, Tim Olson wrote:

>
>
> You know, that oil cooler splitter thing.....I actually think
> my oil temps are now more of an issue since adding that splitter
> vane. These days I hit higher temps on climbout than I used
> to. I may actually remove mine, as now that I've had it
> closer to a year, I'm finding that I get oil > 200F in
> a climb even on cooler days, whereas I didn't have that
> happen until the splitter. I almost ALWAYS cruised at 185F
> before too, and now I find I may end up at 190 or 192 or
> something higher. No, that's not hot, but I can hit 215F
> in a climb now, on a 65F degree day. Used to never have
> that issue. It may make better airflow distribution, but
> it may be restricting or something. Or perhaps I did a bad
> job installing it. At any rate, I know I didn't see any
> appreciably decrease in temps, so at best I think it
> did nothing. I'm just hoping it isn't worse than nothing.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
> On 6/29/2010 11:46 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
>>
>>
>> Sounds like the answer is no.
>> I don't see the need if you are going standard vans cowl, 260 Hp engine
>> etc... Maybe upgrade to the 2006 oil cooler and place the oil cooler
>> splitter in the "wedge"
>> Why complicate things that already work. Adding cowl flaps will
>> definitely
>> complicate the lower cowl assembly.
>>
>> Robin
>> Do Not Archive
>>
>>
>> --


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partner14



Joined: 12 Jan 2008
Posts: 540
Location: Granbury Texas

PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 7:39 pm    Post subject: Cowl Flaps Reply with quote

Without the butterfly valve I was seeing oil temps in the 156 to 166 range. When I reinstalled the valve, I could dial in practically any temperature I wanted... up to 187. Then in the Spring I totally remove it... to be reinstalled in Oct Nov timeframe.
Don McDonald

--- On Tue, 6/29/10, Dick & Vicki Sipp <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> wrote:

[quote]
From: Dick & Vicki Sipp <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Cowl Flaps
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Tuesday, June 29, 2010, 8:05 PM

--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dick & Vicki Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net (rsipp(at)earthlink.net)>

Just for another data point, ditto John's configuration and results. I love
the butterfly valve for keeping temps up in the winter, easy to regulate oil
temp from cockpit. Stays open in the summer with the temps John reports.

Dick Sipp
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Miller John" <gengrumpy(at)aol.com (gengrumpy(at)aol.com)>
Sent: Tuesday, June 29, 2010 10:16 PM
To: <rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)>
Subject: Re: Cowl Flaps

[quote] --> RV10-List message posted by: Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com (gengrumpy(at)aol.com)>

FWIW. My oil cooler setup remains stock Vans with exception of butterfly
valve put in this winter just aft of the baffling on the oil cooler line
(to keep temps higher in winter).

Hot days here in TN and my oil temps stay 185-190 on climb out as long as
I keep speed at or above 120.

grumpy
do not archive

On Jun 29, 2010, at 3:07 PM, Tim Olson wrote:

> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com (Tim(at)myrv10.com)>
>
> You know, that oil cooler splitter thing.....I actually think
> my oil temps are now more of an issue since adding that splitter
> vane.  These days I hit higher temps on climbout than I used
> to.  I may actually remove mine, as now that I've had it
> closer to a year, I'm finding that I get oil > 200F in
> a climb even on cooler days, whereas I didn't have that
> happen until the splitter. I almost ALWAYS cruised at 185F
> before too, and now I find I may end up at 190 or 192 or
> something higher. No, that's not hot, but I can hit 215F
> in a climb now, on a 65F degree day. Used to never have
> that issue. It may make better airflow distribution, but
> it may be restricting or something. Or perhaps I did a bad
> job installing it.  At any rate, I know I didn't see any
> appreciably decrease in temps, so at best I think it
> did nothing. I'm just hoping it isn't worse than nothing.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
> On 6/29/2010 11:46 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Robin Marks<robin(at)painttheweb.com (robin(at)painttheweb.com)>
>>
>> Sounds like the answer is no.
>> I don't see the need if you are going standard vans cowl, 260 Hp engine
>> etc... Maybe upgrade to the 2006 oil cooler and place the oil cooler
>> splitter in the "wedge"
>> Why complicate things that already work. Adding cowl flaps will
>> definitely
>> complicate the lower cowl assembly.
>>
>> Robin
>> Do Not Archive
>>
>>
>> --


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tsts4



Joined: 06 Aug 2007
Posts: 167
Location: Tampa, FL

PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 4:20 am    Post subject: Re: Cowl Flaps Reply with quote

Guys,
Could I get some more info on the butterfly valve setup? A part number and install pics would be greatly appreciated. Also, does Lycoming dictate a minimum operating oil temp? I'm trying to gage if this is a mod that would make sense to install here in northern Virginia.


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aka "Auburntsts" on EAA and VAF
RV-10 N728TT -- Flying
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Kellym



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1700
Location: Sun Lakes AZ

PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 4:49 am    Post subject: Cowl Flaps Reply with quote

Generally accepted minimum oil temps.........160 to get moisture out of oil, 180 better. 180-190 optimal cruise temp. Keep in mind that length of flight, altitude, etc also play a role in eliminating moisture from oil. If you fly often, moisture build up is less of a concern, if you fly rarely, more of a concern. Nothing really hard and fast, more like goals. Straight from Lycoming operator's manual:
[img]cid:part1.05020600.02010602(at)aviating.com[/img]

On 6/30/2010 5:20 AM, tsts4 wrote:
Quote:
Quote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> (tsts4(at)verizon.net)

Guys,
Could I get some more info on the butterfly valve setup? A part number and install pics would be greatly appreciated. Also, does Lycoming dictate a minimum operating oil temp? I'm trying to gage if this is a mod that would make sense to install here in northern Virginia.

--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings


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speckter(at)comcast.net
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 4:54 am    Post subject: Cowl Flaps Reply with quote

I think that the bad combination of flowscan transducer in the tunnel and the Garmin software cause the bouncing of the fuel flow. I have noticed that it increases with altitude. I have been working with GAMI and they too cannot figure out what is going on with my present set up giving such variation.

Has anyone with Garmin 900x gotten thing working perfectly?

Gary Specketer


From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Tuesday, June 29, 2010 7:46 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: ~RE: Cowl Flaps


Interesting. It was mentioned to me more than a few times that the openings on the James cowl are much larger than needed but when I look at the Cirrus and Corvallis their inlet openings look larger than the James openings. The downside to the Experimental world seems to be completely void of aeronautical engineers.
Regarding LOP I have been flying LOP for ~30 hours now. I was hoping my last restrictor change was to be my last but that change made the engine run worse LOP. Unfortunately I cannot accurately balance my injectors because my fuel flow bounces around too much to give accurate numbers. It bounces more than the desired delta of first to last cylinder one looks for in a finely tuned injector package. That being said in my prior setup I was able to fly LOP at ~11.2-11.5 GPH at 155 TAS with lower cylinder temps as described.

Robin

From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Tuesday, June 29, 2010 4:35 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: Cowl Flaps



For all of the James cowl/plenum RV10 drivers. You will want to find Alan Bickle (at) OSH this year and talk and see what he's done re CHT and Oil Temps. It was a lot of work, but I think he's nailed the solution. Not to keep everyone in suspense, but his solution was bigger intake rings. If you haven't painted you cowl, See Alan 1st!!!.

I just got back from a trip to Provo, Ut from PHX, and had Oil temps peak (at) 220 on climb (and that was a 120kt climb) and avg 205 on the way up. Cyl #2 & #6 CHT's peaked (at) 415-420! 40 deg ROP got them down to under 400. OAT (at) altitude 65-70 F.

BUT.........

25 degs LOP and CHT's dropped to 345-360 and OIL temps to 195. I'm really happily surprised to see the cooling advantage that LOP brings
We had tail winds BOTH ways on our trip and still averaged 165kts GS (at) 11.2 gph! I'm liking this LOP stuff!!!!


Deems

On 6/29/2010 9:46 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
Quote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Robin Marks <robin(at)painttheweb.com> Sounds like the answer is no.I don't see the need if you are going standard vans cowl, 260 Hp engineetc... Maybe upgrade to the 2006 oil cooler and place the oil coolersplitter in the "wedge"Why complicate things that already work. Adding cowl flaps will definitelycomplicate the lower cowl assembly. Robin
0
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1
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2[quote]--


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partner14



Joined: 12 Jan 2008
Posts: 540
Location: Granbury Texas

PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 5:09 am    Post subject: Cowl Flaps Reply with quote

Todd, I made my own, but I'm pretty sure I've seen one offered for sale. I think it should almost be a requirement. During the winter months almost anywhere in this country, you'll have trouble getting the oil temp up where it should be. I have also installed a seperator for the breather, and I get quite a bit of water (condensation) collected during the winter months of flying.
Don McDonald

--- On Wed, 6/30/10, tsts4 <tsts4(at)verizon.net> wrote:

Quote:

From: tsts4 <tsts4(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Cowl Flaps
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Wednesday, June 30, 2010, 5:20 AM

--> RV10-List message posted by: "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net (tsts4(at)verizon.net)>

Guys,
Could I get some more info on the butterfly valve setup? A part number and install pics would be greatly appreciated. Also, does Lycoming dictate a minimum operating oil temp? I'm trying to gage if this is a mod that would make sense to install here in northern Virginia.

--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings


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Deems Davis



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 925

PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 5:24 am    Post subject: Cowl Flaps Reply with quote

I don't have a Garmin, but I finally moved my flow scan OUT of the tunnel. To just aft of the servo prior to the spider, and it solved the problem of it bouncing around. I wasn't sure there was enough room, but it fit just fine. I ordered 2 new hoses from Precision to accomodate the change. My fuel flow readings are now +/- .1 gph. Which is what the Floscan spec says. Does Garmin provide an option for the sample rate of the fuel flow? My EFIS shows it real time, but the data logging only records in 6 sec increments?

Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com

On 6/30/2010 5:53 AM, gary wrote: [quote] v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} .shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);} <![endif]--> st1\:*{behavior:url(#default#ieooui) } <![endif]--> <![endif]--> <![endif]-->
I think that the bad combination of flowscan transducer in the tunnel and the Garmin software cause the bouncing of the fuel flow. I have noticed that it increases with altitude. I have been working with GAMI and they too cannot figure out what is going on with my present set up giving such variation.

Has anyone with Garmin 900x gotten thing working perfectly?

Gary Specketer


From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Tuesday, June 29, 2010 7:46 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: ~RE: Cowl Flaps


Interesting. It was mentioned to me more than a few times that the openings on the James cowl are much larger than needed but when I look at the Cirrus and Corvallis their inlet openings look larger than the James openings. The downside to the Experimental world seems to be completely void of aeronautical engineers.
Regarding LOP I have been flying LOP for ~30 hours now. I was hoping my last restrictor change was to be my last but that change made the engine run worse LOP. Unfortunately I cannot accurately balance my injectors because my fuel flow bounces around too much to give accurate numbers. It bounces more than the desired delta of first to last cylinder one looks for in a finely tuned injector package. That being said in my prior setup I was able to fly LOP at ~11.2-11.5 GPH at 155 TAS with lower cylinder temps as described.

Robin

From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Tuesday, June 29, 2010 4:35 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: Cowl Flaps



For all of the James cowl/plenum RV10 drivers. You will want to find Alan Bickle (at) OSH this year and talk and see what he's done re CHT and Oil Temps. It was a lot of work, but I think he's nailed the solution. Not to keep everyone in suspense, but his solution was bigger intake rings. If you haven't painted you cowl, See Alan 1st!!!.

I just got back from a trip to Provo, Ut from PHX, and had Oil temps peak (at) 220 on climb (and that was a 120kt climb) and avg 205 on the way up. Cyl #2 & #6 CHT's peaked (at) 415-420! 40 deg ROP got them down to under 400. OAT (at) altitude 65-70 F.

BUT.........

25 degs LOP and CHT's dropped to 345-360 and OIL temps to 195. I'm really happily surprised to see the cooling advantage that LOP brings
We had tail winds BOTH ways on our trip and still averaged 165kts GS (at) 11.2 gph! I'm liking this LOP stuff!!!!


Deems

On 6/29/2010 9:46 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
Quote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Robin Marks <robin(at)painttheweb.com> Sounds like the answer is no.I don't see the need if you are going standard vans cowl, 260 Hp engineetc... Maybe upgrade to the 2006 oil cooler and place the oil coolersplitter in the "wedge"Why complicate things that already work. Adding cowl flaps will definitelycomplicate the lower cowl assembly. Robin
0
Quote:
1
Quote:
2 [quote]--


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rleffler



Joined: 05 Nov 2006
Posts: 680

PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 5:45 am    Post subject: Cowl Flaps Reply with quote

http://www.nonstopaviation.com/

The nice part is you can leave it open and only close it in the winter when
you may want to warm things up a little. That is what I used to hate about
the winterization plates in Cherokee's. If you were a northern pilot flying
south, you would have to take off the cowl and remove the plate enroute. I
went through the formal FAA approval process to get something very similar
installed in my Cherokee 180. It's much nicer to be able to control from
a Bowden cable in the cabin. I plan on putting this on my RV-10 when it's
time.

bob
--


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tsts4



Joined: 06 Aug 2007
Posts: 167
Location: Tampa, FL

PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 6:07 am    Post subject: Re: Cowl Flaps Reply with quote

Thanks Bob and Kelly--exactly what I was looking for!

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aka "Auburntsts" on EAA and VAF
RV-10 N728TT -- Flying
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aerosport1



Joined: 07 Nov 2007
Posts: 231

PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 7:43 am    Post subject: Re: Cowl Flaps Reply with quote

I installed the Nonstop aviation valve and it works great. In the winter I can shut it down and regulate
Oil temps. I usually try and set it at 184-185f. In the hot summer I have it wide open and with the stock cowl and the
Larger oil cooler I see 188 to 190 on 92f days during climb. When in cruise it settles around 180-182f at altitude. It works very good. I have my valve right before the oil cooler mount I attached a photo you can see the cable but the valve is hard to see. Sorry I thought I had a better picture.

Geoff


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Nick Nafsinger



Joined: 07 Aug 2006
Posts: 9
Location: Houston

PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 8:51 pm    Post subject: Cowl Flaps Reply with quote

Coming in late here.... Yes, we've got cowl flaps on our 10. Non-Cold
Air James cowl, Rod Bower intake, Vetterman 6 into 2 with mufflers.

Abdolutly no cooling problems here in the Houston heat, no luvers
installed. One very pleasant suprise was a 4 knot increase in speed
when the cowl flaps are closed up. I'm at work for the next few days,
but on Monday when I get home I'll try and get some pictures posted.

Nick Nafsinger
Houston, TX

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