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If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently?
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bcondrey



Joined: 03 Apr 2006
Posts: 580

PostPosted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 8:44 am    Post subject: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? Reply with quote

A good way to test the sealing of the vents when building is to connect the blower side of a shop-vac to the SCAT connection. Turn on the shop-vac and observe both flappers. Silicone sealing helps the flap side and a buildup along the inboard side of the hinges helps also. The high velocity air causes the opposite side flapper to lift at the hinge.

Bob
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Tim Olson



Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2882

PostPosted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 9:14 am    Post subject: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? Reply with quote

Does that happen if you blow air into BOTH sides simultaneously? I can easily see it if it blows one side...both sides at the same time is harder to understand.
Tim

On Aug 10, 2010, at 11:43 AM, "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> wrote:

[quote]

A good way to test the sealing of the vents when building is to connect the blower side of a shop-vac to the SCAT connection. Turn on the shop-vac and observe both flappers. Silicone sealing helps the flap side and a buildup along the inboard side of the hinges helps also. The high velocity air causes the opposite side flapper to lift at the hinge.

Bob


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bcondrey



Joined: 03 Apr 2006
Posts: 580

PostPosted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 9:21 am    Post subject: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? Reply with quote

Don't know - maybe somebody without their engine on the mount can check it out!

Bob

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rv10builder(at)verizon.ne
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 9:40 am    Post subject: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? Reply with quote

There is too much heat from both exhausts so one covers inlet and outlet of
one and uses only one exhaust. From that exhaust you run the one SCAT to a
"Y" and in turn 2 SCATS, 1 per vent.
When you blow air it hits both flappers at the same time.
Hope that makes sense.
Pascal

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)myrv10.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 10:14 AM
To: <rv10-list(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do
Differently?

[quote]

Does that happen if you blow air into BOTH sides simultaneously? I can
easily see it if it blows one side...both sides at the same time is harder
to understand.
Tim

On Aug 10, 2010, at 11:43 AM, "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
<bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> wrote:

>
> <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
>
> A good way to test the sealing of the vents when building is to connect
> the blower side of a shop-vac to the SCAT connection. Turn on the
> shop-vac and observe both flappers. Silicone sealing helps the flap side
> and a buildup along the inboard side of the hinges helps also. The high
> velocity air causes the opposite side flapper to lift at the hinge.
>
> Bob
> --


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pilotdds(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 9:58 am    Post subject: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? Reply with quote

I would put aileron trim in,place two fuel filters under seat,place flowscan firewall forward,use ss heat boxes,use duckworth lights-vans landing lights painfully inadequate in my application,use a thin layer of composite and weave around plexi to prevent cracking and use matco nosewheel-great airplane-as an alternative to two fuel filters would be an access door on tunnel this would allow fuel shutoff to be used and prevent having to drain tanks to check and clean filter.-good luck Jim




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MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 12:59 pm    Post subject: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? Reply with quote

Thanks for that detail. I in fact tried to seal it up with some red
silicone in the tube - didn't work very well. But bonding some thin
sheet to the flap I can see could do the trick

I used some (thick) silicone sheet to replace the cooling shroud
material in the kit (never did like that stuff on my Maule). Cool
stuff, interesting properties, looking for more applications just because.

Thanks!
Bill
Linn Walters wrote:
Quote:

My good buddy and RV-10 builder optede for the SS heat boxes. I
didn't ..... yet.
He had some thin red silicone sheet that he bonded to the flapper to
seal the hole when closed. I did the same (he gave me enough to do
mine) bonding the sheet to the flapper with red silicone from the tube
and closing the flapper while the silicone cured.
I'm into fire prevention (I know it's impossible to get it 100%)
rather than fire mitigation.
Linn

Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>
> <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
>
> Bill - a couple of issues with the stock heat boxes:
> - they're aluminum which partially defeats the purpose of having a
> stainless steel firewall since they're the only thing between the
> cabin and a pair of 2" holes.
> - the hinges on the stock aluminum boxes are sloppy and are at least
> part of the legendary "hot tunnel" issue. Air from the opposite side
> SCAT causes the flapper to lift on the hinge side and allow hot air
> in even if the flapper is closed. You won't feel flow but will get
> hot air in there.
>
> Bob
> RV-10 N442PM
>



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scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.co
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 1:07 pm    Post subject: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? Reply with quote

If I were building a plane today this would be my list:
I'll try to go from front to back
  • I would stay with the Hartzell prop - I like the extra weight up front for CG
  • Add the front wheel Matco spacer that he sells
  • I would make the lower cowl opening larger so I could drop my cowl more (I still can do this)
  • I would not install the cowl hinge on the bottom of the plane. Use something else more solid. Mine cracked after 150 hours and I have read about this happening to many others. I used a solid piece of aluminum and nutplates.
  • The Lightspeed iginition is great and I am not sure about the new technology coming out but I would buy what Bart at Aerosport tells me to buy.
  • I would probably go with the standard PlanePower Alternator instead of the B&C I used. The B&C is great and at the time they did not use PlanePower
  • Not completely sure if I would ceramic coat my exhaust but I probably would
  • I would definitely put more fiberglass around my windows on the gap between the window and the cabin top to prevent cracking.
  • I would add the overhead console
  • I would use LED position and strobes lights
  • The HID's from duckworks are still some of the brightest and I like them.
  • For the interior there are more options now with Geoff's (Aerosport) side panels so I would have to think about that. I would use his panel since Lancair doesn't make them anymore. Abby at Flightline also does a great job.
  • Panel: I just don't know but it would be the G900 if I was going expensive or I would do the G3X, Advanced or Grand Rapids. They are all great options today and I would probably spend less today knowing that I will want to upgrade every 5-7 years anyway. There are so many awesome panels out there and it is dependent on budget and personal preference.
  • I would add TCAS for me or ADS-B for flatlander flying. ADS-B just does not have good coverage out here in the mountains.
  • I would add APRS during the build (I will be adding it this month) for continuous tracking.
  • You must replace the main wheel fairing extension on each wheel.
  • For rudder trim, I would add electric trim from the beginning. I will install a rudder bias system sometime soon.
  • I would not use the Bob Archer Nav antenna and go with a whisker type below the rudder. I just don't feel my range is as good.
  • The stock tires are OK but the new tubes and retreads are much better and don't leak air nearly as fast. (But wear our the stock one's first I would think)
  • Make sure you have a solid rudder lock system. It only takes prop blast from one plane or a windy day to destroy your rudder. If I leave the plane for more than 2 seconds I put the rudder lock in.
I don't know if I thought of everything.
Scott Schmidtscottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com

From: Dave Fritzsche (Building) <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com>
To: RV-10 Matronics <rv10-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Mon, August 9, 2010 10:33:57 AM
Subject: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently?

--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com (fritzsch(at)eskimo.com)>

This question is primarily for those who have been flying for a while and have gained significant use experience. I believe the response will be very helpful to those of us who are in the building process and wrestling with decisions of what to put into our aircraft in terms of electronics, engines, modifications and also useful techniques used to complete the building process. I am not asking for what is best (no primer wars here) but for what you believe you learned from your experience.

If you were starting to build an RV-10 given you current knowledge gained from building and flying you RV-10, what would you do differently in completing the project?

Dave

-- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup,
[quote][b]


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bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 2:39 pm    Post subject: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? Reply with quote

I know it a little late on the things I would or wouldn't do but, I would definitely not use Performance engines again, they are less than honest. And if you happen to run into a guy named Wade Barnett, run away. Good luck to all


From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Mon, August 9, 2010 4:01:29 PM
Subject: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently?

--> RV10-List message posted by: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com (drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com)>

My 2 cents

1. Not install the center console. It takes up some knee room on long flights. Harder to service the tunnel.

2. Move the inline gas filter to two smaller units under the seats.
3. go with LED wingtip lights from the out set.

4. simplify my panel. I have two AFS efis panels, one for the co pilot/one for me, Put it all into one in front of the pilot. I do like the unit.
5. Get the upgrades on the front axle from the beginning. I never had any problems with the stock one, but the matco upgrade is worth the upgrade.
6. simplify the audio panel. All the rear jacks/entertainment just isn't very useful. As long as you have XM weather and radio, not much else is needed.
7. fix the loose steps before I closed the lower pan. Still gotta go back and cut holes in the floor to stop the wiggle.
8. Read and follow the recent updates on the door construction and installation. It will save you time and money and frustration. The doors are doable, and you can get great results, if you go about it correctly.
Dr Fred

7 takeoffs and landings this last Saturday. What a great machine.

Dave Fritzsche (Building) wrote:
Quote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com (fritzsch(at)eskimo.com)>

This question is primarily for those who have been flying for a while and have gained significant use experience. I believe the response will be very helpful to those of us who are in the building process and wrestling with decisions of what to put into our aircraft in terms of electronics, engines, modifications and also useful techniques used to complete the building process. I am not asking for what is best (no primer wars here) but for what you believe you learned from your experience.

If you were starting to build an RV-10 given you current knowledge gained from building and flying you RV-10, what would you do differently in completing the probsp; -Matt Dralle,

[quote][b]


- The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum -
 

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

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rv10builder(at)verizon.ne
Guest





PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 4:48 pm    Post subject: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? Reply with quote

On the flip side for those who may be running away. A place to consider going to is America's Aircraft Engine in Oklahoma http://www.overhaul.com/index.html, They are great to work with, and quite honest along the way.
I would do that again
Pascal
From: Bruce Johnson (bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com)
Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2010 3:37 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently?


I know it a little late on the things I would or wouldn't do but, I would definitely not use Performance engines again, they are less than honest. And if you happen to run into a guy named Wade Barnett, run away. Good luck to all


From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com (drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com)>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Sent: Mon, August 9, 2010 4:01:29 PM
Subject: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently?

--> RV10-List message posted by: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com (drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com)>

My 2 cents

1. Not install the center console. It takes up some knee room on long flights. Harder to service the tunnel.

2. Move the inline gas filter to two smaller units under the seats.
3. go with LED wingtip lights from the out set.

4. simplify my panel. I have two AFS efis panels, one for the co pilot/one for me, Put it all into one in front of the pilot. I do like the unit.
5. Get the upgrades on the front axle from the beginning. I never had any problems with the stock one, but the matco upgrade is worth the upgrade.
6. simplify the audio panel. All the rear jacks/entertainment just isn't very useful. As long as you have XM weather and radio, not much else is needed.
7. fix the loose steps before I closed the lower pan. Still gotta go back and cut holes in the floor to stop the wiggle.
8. Read and follow the recent updates on the door construction and installation. It will save you time and money and frustration. The doors are doable, and you can get great results, if you go about it correctly.
Dr Fred

7 takeoffs and landings this last Saturday. What a great machine.

Dave Fritzsche (Building) wrote:
Quote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com (fritzsch(at)eskimo.com)>

This question is primarily for those who have been flying for a while and have gained significant use experience. I believe the response will be very helpful to those of us who are in the building process and wrestling with decisions of what to put into our aircraft in terms of electronics, engines, modifications and also useful techniques used to complete the building process. I am not asking for what is best (no primer wars here) but for what you believe you learned from your experience.

If you were starting to build an RV-10 given you current knowledge gained from building and flying you RV-10, what would you do differently in completing the probsp; -Matt Dralle,

[quote]

href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
[b]


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Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

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scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.co
Guest





PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 7:00 am    Post subject: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? Reply with quote

RE:Engine Choice
It is sometimes difficult to know how many new builders join this site from time to time and things get repeated but when it comes to the engine we all want to make the best decision.
Bart and Sue at Aerosport Power are fantastic. I know there are many builders here that have their engines.
They are both honest, knowledgeable and very fun to work with. They stand behind their products and have great customer service.
If you choose to use them you will not be disappointed.

Scott Schmidtscottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com

From: Pascal <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thu, August 12, 2010 6:46:45 PM
Subject: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently?

On the flip side for those who may be running away. A place to consider going to is America's Aircraft Engine in Oklahoma http://www.overhaul.com/index.html, They are great to work with, and quite honest along the way.
I would do that again
Pascal
From: Bruce Johnson (bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com)
Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2010 3:37 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently?


I know it a little late on the things I would or wouldn't do but, I would definitely not use Performance engines again, they are less than honest. And if you happen to run into a guy named Wade Barnett, run away. Good luck to all


From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com (drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com)>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Sent: Mon, August 9, 2010 4:01:29 PM
Subject: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently?

--> RV10-List message posted by: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com (drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com)>

My 2 cents

1. Not install the center console. It takes up some knee room on long flights. Harder to service the tunnel.

2. Move the inline gas filter to two smaller units under the seats.
3. go with LED wingtip lights from the out set.

4. simplify my panel. I have two AFS efis panels, one for the co pilot/one for me, Put it all into one in front of the pilot. I do like the unit.
5. Get the upgrades on the front axle from the beginning. I never had any problems with the stock one, but the matco upgrade is worth the upgrade.
6. simplify the audio panel. All the rear jacks/entertainment just isn't very useful. As long as you have XM weather and radio, not much else is needed.
7. fix the loose steps before I closed the lower pan. Still gotta go back and cut holes in the floor to stop the wiggle.
8. Read and follow the recent updates on the door construction and installation. It will save you time and money and frustration. The doors are doable, and you can get great results, if you go about it correctly.
Dr Fred

7 takeoffs and landings this last Saturday. What a great machine.

Dave Fritzsche (Building) wrote:
Quote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com (fritzsch(at)eskimo.com)>

This question is primarily for those who have been flying for a while and have gained significant use experience. I believe the response will be very helpful to those of us who are in the building process and wrestling with decisions of what to put into our aircraft in terms of electronics, engines, modifications and also useful techniques used to complete the building process. I am not asking for what is best (no primer wars here) but for what you believe you learned from your experience.

If you were starting to build an RV-10 given you current knowledge gained from building and flying you RV-10, what would you do differently in completing the probsp; -Matt Dralle,

[quote]

href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c

[b]


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Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

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rv10builder(at)verizon.ne
Guest





PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 8:44 am    Post subject: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? Reply with quote

My computer crashed a few months back and all my archived info I stored for years on the RV-10 was gone.. a good thing in a way actually.. but I bring this up because I have needed to resort to search the Matronics history for each item I am looking for, just as a new builder should do for information.
There are numerous posts on good engine makers, Barrett is excellent for someone looking for a performance driven engine, Aerosport has kudos from VAF and others, if the dollar is right when you need an engine they are great, but if not one may need to look within the US (for us in the country) that is why it is great that Bruce gave his warning of who to avoid that will save many in the future from making that same mistake, I believe there is another builder who is now in Texas that had Performance engine build his so it would be good if someone has a different view on a builder to state it so in the future when one goes to search for this there will be numerous feedback on that item.
For those that have not used the search capabilities of Matronics.. think about using it, it really is a great resource. In my case having the data on the -10 disappear forced me to look for current information versus 2-3 year old feedback so I encourage all of us to continue giving that feedback as 2-3 years ago there wasn't the items to skip in the finish kit as we all know now can be acquired elsewhere and the items in the aftermarket will continue to expand. I already have everything so it would not benefit me but it sure will for someone after me, which is what the forum is about.
Pascal


From: Scott Schmidt (scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com)
Sent: Friday, August 13, 2010 7:59 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently?


RE:Engine Choice
It is sometimes difficult to know how many new builders join this site from time to time and things get repeated but when it comes to the engine we all want to make the best decision.
Bart and Sue at Aerosport Power are fantastic. I know there are many builders here that have their engines.
They are both honest, knowledgeable and very fun to work with. They stand behind their products and have great customer service.
If you choose to use them you will not be disappointed.

Scott Schmidtscottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com



From: Pascal <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thu, August 12, 2010 6:46:45 PM
Subject: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently?

On the flip side for those who may be running away. A place to consider going to is America's Aircraft Engine in Oklahoma http://www.overhaul.com/index.html, They are great to work with, and quite honest along the way.
I would do that again
Pascal
From: Bruce Johnson (bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com)
Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2010 3:37 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently?


I know it a little late on the things I would or wouldn't do but, I would definitely not use Performance engines again, they are less than honest. And if you happen to run into a guy named Wade Barnett, run away. Good luck to all


From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com (drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com)>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Sent: Mon, August 9, 2010 4:01:29 PM
Subject: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently?

--> RV10-List message posted by: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com (drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com)>

My 2 cents

1. Not install the center console. It takes up some knee room on long flights. Harder to service the tunnel.

2. Move the inline gas filter to two smaller units under the seats.
3. go with LED wingtip lights from the out set.

4. simplify my panel. I have two AFS efis panels, one for the co pilot/one for me, Put it all into one in front of the pilot. I do like the unit.
5. Get the upgrades on the front axle from the beginning. I never had any problems with the stock one, but the matco upgrade is worth the upgrade.
6. simplify the audio panel. All the rear jacks/entertainment just isn't very useful. As long as you have XM weather and radio, not much else is needed.
7. fix the loose steps before I closed the lower pan. Still gotta go back and cut holes in the floor to stop the wiggle.
8. Read and follow the recent updates on the door construction and installation. It will save you time and money and frustration. The doors are doable, and you can get great results, if you go about it correctly.
Dr Fred

7 takeoffs and landings this last Saturday. What a great machine.

Dave Fritzsche (Building) wrote:
Quote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com (fritzsch(at)eskimo.com)>

This question is primarily for those who have been flying for a while and have gained significant use experience. I believe the response will be very helpful to those of us who are in the building process and wrestling with decisions of what to put into our aircraft in terms of electronics, engines, modifications and also useful techniques used to complete the building process. I am not asking for what is best (no primer wars here) but for what you believe you learned from your experience.

If you were starting to build an RV-10 given you current knowledge gained from building and flying you RV-10, what would you do differently in completing the probsp; -Matt Dralle,

[quote]

href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c



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AirMike



Joined: 27 Feb 2007
Posts: 514
Location: Nevada

PostPosted: Sat Aug 14, 2010 7:25 am    Post subject: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? Reply with quote

Engine from Mattituck in NY. I and a lot of others have their Red/Gold engine, great support. Reasonable price. It is mass balanced, fine wire plugs, home delivered on a lift gate truck (no extra charge). Runs solid after 70 hrs. Used 1 qt of oil to OSH and back to the West Coast. It is standard compression which might be desirable if we go to a new fuel.

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See you OSH '18
Q/B - sold.
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